Solo to Sidecar by STD

[joea]

88 lber should be as "aero" as possible...pics will help us help you

[Stainless1]

Tom, I agree with your rule interpretation. Running with a passenger is my preference for fun. But if for some reason they can't ride I will have weights standing by. My volunteers weigh a tad more than 132 so I do reserve the right to run with dead-weight if I'm a hair off a record and need to lighten up. But ideally I want to make a good run with my cohort.

Lighter will not make you faster unless you are running out of room for acceleration. Most bikes are at full speed and working on tuck before they hit the traps. 
Your weights may be more aero than your monkey though 

[bak189]

WHAT.....is this MONKEY Sh#$%@t

[Stainless1]

Bak, it's slippery..... 

[Bruin]

With the new small engine penalty that caps "less than 125mph" bikes run-up distance at 1 mile, I am severely handicapped to reach full speed. It's like a drag race to try and max out by the time I hit the gate. So weight is an issue. No doubt an 88 pounder would be an advantage and dead weights more streamline. At the same time I am obligated to give my current team of co-pilots a chance to ride. My wife has supported my race efforts since day one and my buddy has been a loyal teammate and the primary builder of the hack. Both have earned a place on the deck. And they are great company and will add the fun of the experience. If by some magical chance we have an opportunity to get multiple runs in, and we are short of a record, then I will look for light weight/streamline cargo for the best speed possible. It would be nice to have an 88 #er in the wings.

[Stainless1]

Race with the SCTA or USFRA, they will let you run 1 and 2 miles to a 1 mile trap.

[Bruin]

Stainless, I wish SCTA was more economic/motorcycle friendly. But I am reasonably happy in the BUB/Speedtrial event. Nothing's perfect.

Tucker suited up for a trial fit behind the hack's BBQ fairing. Looks like a good fit.

[Bruin]

The hack rides so close to the ground that the passenger's overhanging toes can drag on the salt. So I made a bolster pad they can rest their legs on. It elevates the foot 2 inches, just enough for easy toe clearance. I used garden kneel pad foam, double layered. Hand stitching the vinyl cover was tedious. To the side you can see a tail-end brace I added to give extra support to the leg platform.

[Bruin]

HAPPY FOURTH of JULY!!!   What better way to celebrate than rigging Old Glory to the side hack and rattling windows up and down the neighborhood. A straight pipe is better than firecrackers and if there is any day I can get away with it, today is the day.

After sitting since last season it was a thrill to hear the old thumper fire up today. Now I start on the engine fairing in earnest.

[Old Scrambler]

GREAT PIC and Happy 4th back....................That's a good looking parade unit

[Bruin]

I've started to work on my body fairing in earnest. Step one is making a cardboard template for the sheet aluminum. This is the general shape. I have to work around the kick-start lever and you will note that the right side is shorter so I can shift my weight out over the cart. I plan on making partitions to channel the air directly to the cooling fins. My biggest challenge will be rounding the side-floor corners for less turbulence. It will take lots of cuts and folds.

[Old Scrambler]

Look around for a salvage alloy diesel tank...............nice shape to cut down for the bottom portion of the fairing.

[Koncretekid]

Just buy Bo  (Wobbly Walrus) a plane ticket to Kansas and he'll bang one out for you in no time!  Might need to buy another 1,000 pop rivets.

[Bruin]

Old Scrambler: A pre-existing form would indeed solve the compound curves issue. I looked but nothing in my scrape pile fit the bill and if nothing else, cutting darts in my sheet aluminum is free. FYI - Tucker isn't bringing her 250 this year, she is dedicated to riding the hack.
Koncretekid: Your BSA cylinder air sleeves inspired me to try it. Yeah, Bo's compound scales came to mind as I was pop-riveting mine together. It's going to take a can of Bondo to even begin to smooth the over-laps. So far everything has come out of garage stock so the price is right.

[wobblywalrus]

Countersunk aircraft style pop rivets work best.  The trick is to hammer the aluminum over a football dolly with a concave faced hammer.  The metal might harden before it gets to the shape you want.  In that case, rub some soap on it and heat it with a propane torch until the soap turns brown.  Then, beat on it some more until it hardens up again.  It is possible to make large panels this way if you are patient.  An english wheel works good too.