Any issues with mounting Manual Boost Controller in the cabin?

[Peter Jack]

Steve, don't follow his example. It ain't funny. If you've ever been involved with anyone in any sort of major wreck in any form of racing you'll probably appreciate a lot more the protection the visor can offer. I still feel anyone who does it should face some sort of reprimand. There are lots of available anti-fog agents if that's the problem. Anyone who lifts their visor before the end of a run, especially if they aren't wearing any sort of protection underneath, is asking for blindness.

Pete

[SteveM]

I certainly wouldn't.  I've been working in steel mills, foundries, and machine shops for about 25 years (not as long as a lot of people), in addition to all the "home" projects.

Every day, my goal is to go home with the same amount of sight, hearing, and skin that I started the day with.

Safety first!

[Avanti Kid]

Using a manual boost control in the cockpit sounds legal to me. (a member of the Coupe/Sedan committee)

[Milwaukee Midget]

PJ, as always, good eyes.

Looking back at it, it was clear he had some vision problems.  He was wiping his eyes, and he wasn't wearing any sunglasses.  If he had just come out of an air conditioned support vehicle, I could easily see where you be might tearing up in August at Bonneville.

He was also sporting his rookie sticker.

I knew I wasn't going to be wearing glasses when I made my passes, so I ordered up a tinted visor to cut down on the glare.

If the helmet was in the support vehicle with him and was cool or cold and were to fog over, a rookie's first instinct would to be clear their vision (lift the visor)) and get the pass done. 

Not the right move, but that's why they're called "Rookie Runs".

I don't think a rule needs to be put into place for this, but a strongly worded statement during Rookie O probably would have stopped this from happening.

Actually, including this video in some form of RO would probably be a good thought.  After the video plays, ask the contestants, "What was wrong with this run?" 

I know on my rookie run, I had a lot more on my mind than what I suspect was a reflex action to clear my vision. 

It ain't right, but I'd give 'em a pass and a serious tongue lashing.

[gkabbt]

I "think" Rick Byrnes had one in his Merkur. Shoot him a PM.

Gregg

I normally start a pass with just 15 pounds of boost, measured in the intake manifold plenum.
 I measure boost as intake manifold pressure absolute, in inches of mercury (Hg). At Bonneville 15 pounds is equal to 55" Hg Abs 25 + (15 X2) = 55". The boost control knob is at a location just to the right of the shifter and is identified by a $ sign.
 I attempted to turn up the boost while in 3rd gear, but found that it caused total wheel spin and complete lack of control, just like on snow or slush, so I turned it back down to somewhere around 15 to 20 psig, and shifted into 4th (final) early in the second mile. Tire spin caused this to be a little further in the mile than normal but I was pretty happy with it. (normally I shift into 4th before the end of mile 1.
 Once in 4th and hooked up, I started cranking in the boost and it felt great. Tire spin was a problem but not unmanageable. I got up to 85" Hg Abs (30 PSIG) and in the 3rd mile it was flying, and moving all over the place. This was more power than I had ever experienced and I knew it would be faster than I had ever been before...

Just as in the previous attempts, in third and finally in 4th gear I increased boost gradually to 85". Well the car was even more unstable than before, and was fishtailing in the second mile to a point that it went completely sideways and I had to lift totally out of the throttle or the car would have spun out. I was able to straighten out, and I got it back up on the pipe, with reduced boost, as quickly as possible, but momentum was hurt pretty badly. The good thing though is once boost was increased, I felt the car now accelerating like never before...

From Rick's excellent write-up of his 1998 Red Hat Speedweek: http://www.merkurencyclopedia.com/Merkur_misc/Byrnes_1998.html

Mike

Mike, Thanks for the link to Rick's write-up. I remembered reading that long ago and far away! 

"The boost control knob is at a location just to the right of the shifter and is identified by a $ sign".....Too funny and too true!

Is that knob still in the Merkur?

Gregg

[4-barrel Mike]

Nope!  Rick pulled it out when he pulled the turbo engine before he sold it.

Mike

[Tman]

A simple shot of RainX on your glasses and visor will keep them from fogging. I do this all the time in the winter so my specs don't fog up every time I come inside. Works well.

[Rick Byrnes]

Nope!  Rick pulled it out when he pulled the turbo engine before he sold it.

Mike

Didn't I send it to you Mike.  It has a $ $ign on the adjustment knob .
If not, I'll look for it.

It was in the cabin, but plumbed with -4 hard line and aeroquip hose.
Not much chance of failure.

[Seldom Seen Slim]

The nitrous controller on my ZX12R is set for - well, not variable spray - stepped spray.  It's similar (in effect) to what Sumner mentions about a number of boost settings.  I don't know if it can be done through the controller for boost, but:

The bike has a dry shot using two jets - 30 hp and 70 hp  In first and second there's no nitrous spray.  In third and fourth it sprays through the 30 hp jet.  In fifth it sprays 70 hp and in top gear (6th) it uses both jets for a 100 hp shot.  The net result is sorta about the same amount of power to the rear wheel in each gear versus the normal decreasing amount because of the dropping total gear ratio.  In other words, the higher the gear, the harder it pulls.  It took a bit of getting used to, I assure you.

Could the boost controller/waste gate be set to do something similar?  You tell me.

[Sumner]

...Could the boost controller/waste gate be set to do something similar?  You tell me.

Yep, exactly what we are doing along with others.  The Speed Demon starts with zero boost and is not full boost until about 370-380 mph.  I would think theirs is all computer controlled with an infinite number of boost points, not a push button like for us with 6, and is based on a number of variables such as rpm, throttle position, wheel spin, etc.,

Sum

[Seldom Seen Slim]

Speed Demon is controlling the boost with a MoTeC.  And they can control the boost in pretty danged small steps/time frames.  I remember Ian Mann (their IT guy in the pits) telling me how they had tried to solve the problem of snapping driveline parts when shifting.  The engine, just before a shift, was making lots of power, and when the shift happened all of that power and RPM hit suddenly - and there goes another yoke or even the driveshaft itself.  So the MoTeC was set to reduce boost for a handful of time (milliseconds?) during the shift - perhaps the trigger was upon reaching a preset RPM while getting ready to shift.  I think I remember that that method reduced the amount of carnage in the drive line.  We've got a MoTeC on the ZX12R, and that's how we can set the various parameters like how much nitrous to spray.  We installed it before we had spent all of our retirement money.  Nowadays I follow the old adage of ""If you spray, you pay!" - and don't use the nitrous.  Maybe when I find a builder that's convincing when he tells me how good he is with the MoTeC.

[4-barrel Mike]

Nope!  Rick pulled it out when he pulled the turbo engine before he sold it.

Mike

Didn't I send it to you Mike.  It has a $ $ign on the adjustment knob .
If not, I'll look for it.

It was in the cabin, but plumbed with -4 hard line and aeroquip hose.
Not much chance of failure.

Just took it out of the bag it was shipped in:



    

Mike

[SteveM]

If I put a $ sign on mine, do you think I can go faster?   

For this year, a manual regulator like the $ sign one, will be in the cabin with me.

In the future, a more sophisticated control system might be utilized.

Steve.

[Crackerman]

Hallman makes an in cab version with a cable that reaches into the cab. They work well for a manual.
For around 150 used you can pick up a greddy profec b spec 1. High and low boost  settings  as well as a knob to turn up or down. But buttons and knobs are small and hard to operate.

Another option is running wg  actuator pressure, and using an inexpensive solenoid to bleed boost pressure out of an orifice drilled to a preset boost. It is an on/off so no adjustment but all 3 options are reasonably priced and keep lines out of cabin

[SteveM]

I was considering an electric (normally open) solenoid, that could be closed with the application of 12V - basically providing a "2 step" function.

For the purpose of running next week (hopefully), I can't get too fancy.

Steve.