There is an alternative. It is more expensive but I think a lot safer in that you aren't trying to drive the car and turn a know up or down at the same time.
Turbosmart's e-Boost 2, and maybe others, lets you program up to 6 different boost settings and activate them via different options. One is time based (drag racers use this more), another is rpm based but what we are using is a method where you can step up or down the 6 settings (you don't have to use all 6) via an electrical push button. There are 2 wires on the controller to do this. Each time you ground one wire with the button it will step up to the next boost level. This is what we are using at this point. If you ground the other wire by a button it will step down one step. We aren't wired for this at this time.
We are trying to get our steps so they are in the 3-4 lbs. for each step. There is more on the controller here....
http://www.turbosmartusa.com/product/e-boost-2On my license runs I found that running on the 8 lb springs was not ideal. I'm estimating that when the boost comes on and goes to 8 lbs the 572 cu. in. motor is picking up at least 200-300 HP in a matter of a couple seconds. Trying to feather into this is a hard situation and wastes time and distance on the course. With a smaller motor adding 40% more throttle over a couple seconds might not result in instant wheel spin so ones results might be different.
We have new springs for the wastegates that we are going to try going back to World Finals. They look like they will eliminate initial boost to about 2-3 lbs. and with pipe and intercooler looses we should have about 1-2 lbs of boost at the manifold. This should allow us to run on just the motor in 1st and 2nd and part of 3rd until we start hitting the button to add boost in the last miles.
Again I would not want to be twisting a knob up or down running over 175 or so and also trying to watch a boost gauge. I don't think I would be very accurate doing this. I'm sure it has been done in the past and in the present but with the new controllers it just isn't necessary. Not sure how fast you will be going and if under 175 this might be a doable option.
Personally I can't see a problem with the controller as it is venting boost pressure off from after the turbo compressor from the line going to the wastegate, I assume.
Good luck,
Sum