Springfield Flyer.

[wobblywalrus]

It looks like a lot of issues discussed on Landracing.com and their solutions have found their way onto that liner.  You are way ahead in that respect, like with the larger diameter tube and the heavy triangulation around the driver cage.  A lot of folks watch.  Not that many see and learn.

[tauruck]

Bo, I get all my inspiration here on the forum and as you know the guys all help where they can. It's a tough deal building this car but the advice I get is invaluable. It would be nice if I lived closer though.

[tauruck]

Today I "built" my top wishbone for the front suspension. I got half way through the fabrication when I realised it was junk. It would never work. Have you ever said to yourself "what was I thinking?". I went away and came back with a much better solution. I said "now you're thinking!!!". Wasted some nicely machined parts but better that than find out later. I'll go to the lathe and mill on Monday to redo the parts.

[RidgeRunner]

     You are not alone.  Yup, not only what be why didn't I in the first place.  In the middle of a re do right now, ironically a wishbone set up for a rear end.  FWIW pinion and rear axle centerlines can be two different heights from the track surface...........

Ed

[Jon]

Definitely not alone Mikey, I'm sure we all have a few "Mk1s" under our build tables

   FWIW pinion and rear axle centerlines can be two different heights from the track surface...........

Try to keep the pinion shaft and gearbox shaft fairly close to parallel so your front and back Uni-joint are at the same angles (actually opposite angles).
You can get some vibration if the front and rear angles are different.

jon

[tauruck]

Sorry to hear that RidgeRunner. That's a big one. I'm actually working half cocked here but once I get the inserts for the rod ends machined I can start putting stuff together and then we'll see if a redo is in order. Kiwi Belly Tank has been giving me great advice but it's like me teaching him Carbon work. We both don't quite get it. Maybe I should have gone rigid up front?. I'm confused but at least I'll learn something by trial and error. 

[RidgeRunner]

Try to keep the pinion shaft and gearbox shaft fairly close to parallel so your front and back Uni-joint are at the same angles (actually opposite angles).
You can get some vibration if the front and rear angles are different.

jon
[/quote]

Jon,

     Thanks for keeping me thinking straight.  I've been following your build, great thoughts and execution.

     What I thought we had covered except fuzzy logic crept in during hasty layout calculations - I forgot about, and didn't factor in, the pinion C/L being offset from the axle C/L.  Come put together time and we couldn't raise the pinion nose and drop the rear of the power train enough to get everything in range, drive shaft started to hit the wishbone mount on the chassis.  New crossmember in mounted lower yesterday and old one cut out.  We should have plenty of room now to get a proper drive line up with the chassis at the ride height we want to start with - which we also changed after the initial layout.  Now we should also have plenty of room for any further adjustments in the future if the need arises.

     Things get tight in lakesters as well as 'liners real quick.  Small dimension differences, especially with angles, can have huge effects.

Ed

[RidgeRunner]

Mike,

    For some reason I seem to remember best when the knock was the hardest   This one wasn't the first and I don't expect it to be the last. 

     I have been following your builds as well and have admired your tenacity and ability to get the job out.

    Have you tried fish mouthing tube ends with a chop or hacksaw?  If not google "chop saw tube notching"  several sites should come up that might help you.  Another deal that I was late catching on to.......

         Ed

[tauruck]

Ed, I don't have a problem with tube notching but I did see one Youtube video that was quite funny. I've got a tube notcher, hole saws, a plasma cutter and a CP reciprocating saw for tubing. My problem is designing a front suspension with what's available locally on spindles.
 Normally on Google here all these darn parasite search engines pop up with thousands of results. Type in "Chicken Teeth" and they'll come up with thousands of results. Rocking Horse dung even worse. 1940 Ford front spindles???, NADA, nothing, zero, zip.
      I haven't laughed this much in a long time. Hey, I'll get over the hump but I need to slow down some. We'll end up making spindles or buy some. The Paypal is another story. We left bucks in the account for a very long time and forgot the password. Trying to retrieve the password was a joke, I was talking to guys in the Bahamas and other places that couldn't get the accent. There's nothing left in the account by now. The suspensh is killing me.

[Ron Gibson]

As far as pinion angles are concerned, the pinion can even be pointed up or off set to the side. The only thing that matters is the angles on both ends need to be within 1.0 degrees of each other. The rear axle on tandem trucks is mounted in this manner. Google "driveline angles".

Ron

[roygoodwin]

Taruck,

check out fleabay http://www.ebay.com/itm/1937-1941-Early-Ford-Spindles-1928-29-30-31-32-33-34-37-40-46-47-48-Made-in-USA-/331016422316?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d121dc3ac&vxp=mtr they claim to be "1937-1941 Early Ford Spindles " but the shipping & currency conversion might make them prohibitive for you

[tauruck]

Thanks Roy, I'll do that. Sid Gyde also emailed me a few links and I can see that they are a simpler solution. Thank you all for chipping in with all the advice. It's nice to have this kind of backup. Regards, Mikey.

[tauruck]

The saying goes, If you build it they will come. Sponsor #24 came on board today. Gates belts and hoses!. Local distributor is a great guy. I think having this many sponsors is a record on it's own. I hear drivers say it wouldn't be possible without their sponsors. In my case it really is the truth.
  I had a customer over today who needs a Carbon oil pan for his 572 so I covered the liner. I had to lie when he asked what was concealed. Airplane project. I don't want the locals knowing what I'm up to.

[tauruck]

The dealer!!.
    I needed some special Ally plate and the supplier that keeps the good stuff made in Austria is 30 miles away. He won't deliver and I won't go near the traffic for any reason. I'm sitting here pondering the situation and an email comes in from one of my Harley customers looking for a part I have. He needs it bad so I make a deal with him. Buy the Aluminium for me and the part is yours. The customer and supplier are 5 miles apart. Now you tell me there isn't a Greater Power involved in this build. It's frightening sometimes. Check out the bike. The fenders, tank and neck were all made in my shop.

[wheelrdealer]

Where there is a will, there is a way. If we were on the same continent I would run errands for you all day in exchange for some of your carbon fiber parts. You do amazing work.

Glad to hear sponsors are coming aboard. Their help always speeds up the process. Great build keep the photos coming. I promise not to tell your neighbors!

BR