Springfield Flyer.

[tauruck]

Bob, my faith in the youngsters has been seriously dented since the early 90s but
because I grew up in the south of Johannesburg where we worked with our hands.
Working class, honest people. In 93 I moved to the north and these dudes don't get their hands dirty.
BS is their first language.
I tried giving many kids a chance at working but you can guess the outcome. Not bred for it.
Like taking a donkey to the Kentucky Derby.
This guy comes from Eastern Bloc parents and he's a grafter. Contrary to popular belief South African kids
think the world owes them!!!.
Of late I've had a few bad experiences and the only guys here I trust are my army buddies most of whom have passed on.
If any young father asked my advice I'd tell him not to spoil his kids.

I have plan for the "suspension" and I'll post pics as soon as I find 3 brackets!.
Got some additional stainless steel clamps today for the nitrogen bottles. Viktor saw the pics and says we need to go up one size (+10mm).

[floydjer]

This old hotrod builder thinks about 3 threads protruding out of the nut would be spot-on

[tauruck]

This one is just slightly under but I never tightened it. It would work but
I'm using a 21" Harley inner tube cut into 1" strips to prevent the clamp from scratching the paint etc.
In light of that I think one size up should be ok.

[tauruck]

Guys, I haven't left town and I'm busy on a bunch of things for the liner.
Podunk and Kiwi Belly Tank, I'll be mailing you the photos etc as discussed in a day or two.

As always I need advice. What companies sell upgrades for Ford C4 transmissions?.
I know there are a lot of parts available that the drag racing guys use but I lost
all the bookmarks when we built the new PC. I have a possible backer that will
buy the components for me. Thanks in advance.

[kiwi belly tank]

You can get everything you need from TCI for a C4 including a tork converter eliminator & an SFI flex plate for your Cleveland, don't mess with a stock one.
  Sid.

[SPARKY]

Sid is right about the stock flex plate--they depend on the converter to stop wobble--  I have used billet flexplate to semi solve the problem 

I am planning on exploring using a clutch flywheel this winter.

[tauruck]

ATI is one of my sponsors!. I'll have to get my go to guy there to send my local "backer" a list of components.
I've seen C4 boxes for sale in all different configurations but they have line locks and all weird stuff I don't need.
It might be easier for my guy just to import a built unit sans bell housing and torque converter. I think he might
go up to $3000. There has to be something available.

I'll chat with ATI and see what I come up with. Thanks guys. :cheer

[kiwi belly tank]

The GM & Chrysler direct drives bolt to the crank flange but the C4 bolts to the drive plate & is a modified converter. You still use a bellhousing & can go to an "Ultra-Bell" to be SFI compliant. I use a clutch type steel flywheel instead of a drive plate (GM) with a 1/4" engine plate to take up the difference. Go to TCI's site so you know what the story is. They probably do a C4 oval track trans off the shelf that'd work you or a drag trans, just don't hook up the bypass or linelock.
  Sid.

[tauruck]

I've already eliminated the converter. All the guys that can help on the internals are at SEMA and I should have known better than to email at this time. My liaison says she'll get them to contact me next week and it's OK because I won't be running the car soon.

[tauruck]

Lots of 1000HP rated C4 boxes around. I guess with the way LSR vehicles apply the power and the surfaces we run on they should be adequate for my motor?.

[SPARKY]

Without the torque converter you shouldn't have any problems with good stuff inside--- but I have only run power glides without converters

[tauruck]

Thanks Sparky.

I had to drill holes for my "new" rear shock mounting plates.
I thought clamping the rear end to the bed on the drill press would do
the trick. WRONG!!!. What a PITA.
Willie came over to help and we ended up clamping the diff to a stand I had
from an MX bike. We set up the contraption using my laser level and managed to drill
28 holes through 10mm plate. The shock mount plates fit and it all turned out great.
Miracle or luck?, i'll take it.

[tauruck]

Two more pics. I'll set the rear end back in the chassis when I get my
strength back. 12mm holes through those plates really took it out of me
mentally.

[tauruck]

I've got the triangle that mounts to the top of the rear and the chassis
to prevent lateral movement partially welded. The snout is too long by
about 1" so I'll cut it before final welding. How I'll get the threaded bushing out
is another story.

[tauruck]

I have quite a bit of the Benteler 38 x 5mm high Moly content tubing left
so I'm thinking of using it for the anti roll bar. Advice was to go heavy.
Is this heavy enough bearing in mind that it will only be about 2ft long?.