Springfield Flyer.

[tauruck]

I got busy on narrowing my gas tank early yesterday.

I stood it up lengthwise and used my laser level to get it
square and marked the lines. These were 10mm apart.

I used some of the special 0,8mm cutting discs from
Klingspor to separate the sections.

OK, so the fuel feed trap is 10mm off centre but it would have been
dumb to just cut the tank down the centre. It was suggested by a beer
holding "expert".

The cutting went great but there were a few spots where the joint line
overlapped by a tiny amount. I just ran the cutting disc through those
sections and it came together just fine.

I clamped and tacked the lip before fitting it in the chassis. It has enough
clearance so that paint won't be scratched on final fit.

Using a large clamp and two thick blocks of Aluminum I managed to get the wave
out of the stainless and tacked where needed.
Refitted to the car again just to be sure. 100%.

Some pics.

[tauruck]

The trap will be drilled for fittings after welding the box.

[tauruck]

The long side.

Also a pic of the lid with baffle plates.

The guys at Latham say there is a small gap
between the floor and the baffles. I'm guessing it must be more than 30mm
because they have sharp 90* corners and the tank has a radius bend (30mm).

The lid and baffles weigh double what the tank does so I'm thinking of
dispensing with the baffles. They need drilling where they join to the lid as well.

What do you guys think?. Baffle or no?.

[RidgeRunner]

Mike,

    A big thanks for the tips on the dollies. 

    My buddy's car is so close to completion now odds are anything I come up with will be geared more towards maintaining rather than construction.  Another project's "someday" just moved a lot closer.

                 Ed

[Peter Jack]

Just my own not so humble opinion Mike, but I'd keep the baffles. You don't neet fluids sloshing back and forth or side to side if things ever get a little exciting. 

Pete

[Finallygotit]

Just my own not so humble opinion Mike, but I'd keep the baffles. You don't neet fluids sloshing back and forth or side to side if things ever get a little exciting. 

Pete

X2 to what Pete said.

[manta22]

Mike;

If you remove the baffles, fill the tank with fuel cell foam.

Regards, Neil   Tucson, AZ

[tauruck]

Thanks Pete, Neil and Ed.

I finished welding the tank so I filled it with water
to check for leaks. I found one and will close it
in the AM.
Even though I sealed the tank and back purged
I don't like the look of the weld inside.

I have special fan grinders for Stainless and I was thinking
I should clean up the inside and run a bead over the joint
to make sure. It won't be possible to back purge though.


I want to weld in the bungs for the fuel lines. This is for EFI
and I was told to run 2 fuel pumps for the 2200cc injectors.

I checked on Aeromotive's site and it looks like -10 should be
the right size for the application.

My thinking is 2 bungs for the injectors but heard I need a return
mounted in the same area and not at the top of the tank.
Seeing as I have 2 pumps do I need 2 returns??.

I'll wait to hear from the experts. Thanks guys.

[Dynoroom]

Mike, one return is fine BUT........ there's always a but huh?..........

Add a few ports for other things, like a tanks vent, other returns IF you should ever go to some type of mechanical system & EFI (check out Speed Demons engine sometime) and who knows what else in the future.

My advice on you stainless tank is different than others here. Don't worry about baffles, or fuel slosh to the extent that you have and NEVER use fuel cell foam in less you intend to clean filters and the tank on a regular basis. Again, MY point of view is you don't need  to sweat the small stuff. Filter the fuel when you pour it in and run GOOD filters in the system.

Pictures of my tank & some of my filters coming.....

[tauruck]

Thanks Mike.

I was worried about the foam being compatible with Ethanol.
Do you agree on the Dash 10 fittings for the fuel lines?.
Also should the return be below the fuel level ie in the bottom
of the tank?.

This EFI is all new to me and I want to get it right first time.

[kiwi belly tank]

I agree on the "no foam" too. I return to the top of the tank to prevent return line restriction/pressure that will affect regulator pressure. I have a mechanical EFI with a Lil Bertha & Moran injectors.
  Sid.

[manta22]

Thanks Mike.

I was worried about the foam being compatible with Ethanol.
Do you agree on the Dash 10 fittings for the fuel lines?.
Also should the return be below the fuel level ie in the bottom
of the tank?.

This EFI is all new to me and I want to get it right first time.

Mike;

These is a special foam that is used in methanol fuel cells but I don't know if it is compatible with ethanol. I'd use it if possible; a regular fuel filter inspection & cleaning is needed even without foam.

Regards, Neil   Tucson, AZ

[Dynoroom]

Thanks Mike.

I was worried about the foam being compatible with Ethanol.
Do you agree on the Dash 10 fittings for the fuel lines?.
Also should the return be below the fuel level ie in the bottom
of the tank?.

This EFI is all new to me and I want to get it right first time.

Return fuel above the fuel level. Also return it as far away from the inlet suction lines as possible. Consider some type of tray/baffle system for the return fuel as to minimize air bubbles in the fuel. Look at my tank pictures. The fuel returns at the right front onto a sloping tray away from the fuel suction at the lower left rear of the tank. You can see the braided return line on the left in this picture. The hard line used for the tank vent on the right side of the photo, then if you look closely you can see the -10 line to feed the pump in the back.
The next picture shows the Hilborn stacked screen filter (See yellow arrow) I use before the pump. Be VERY careful here as too small a filter or to fine a mircon filter can damage your pump and or your engine. The next picture shows a Kinsler filter on the pressure side (also with a yellow arrow). IIRC the inlet filter is 80 or 100 microns & the pressure side filter is 10 microns.  
-10 fuel lines are the minimum imo.
I still would not use foam in this application. The problem with fuel cell foam is there are many different types. Just as there are many different types of additives used in different brands of fuels. We had a 26 gallon fuel cell in a SCCA Trans Am car and would change out the foam & filters 2 times during the season. There was always some foam residue in the tank & filter. In racing where you can have contact with other vehicles or objects the foam helps, in land speed racing with the minimum amounts of fuel on board I see no real advantage compared to the efforts to maintenance it.  YMMV 

[Dynoroom]

Screwed up (again) here is the pressure side filter.

[fordboy628]

Mike,

I'm with Dynoroom on the foam.     Foam in fuel cells was ALWAYS a "PITA", it would deteriorate/dissolve if you looked at it the wrong way.    The fuel cell mfg's would just say "You must have put in "hot"/wrong/whatever fuel", and blame it on the team.     And then the team would have to spend precious prep time cleaning the cell, filter(s), etc.

I don't see much benefit from foam in a LS situation, just a maintenance hassle that could cost you an engine.

Just my 2 cents though . . . . . .

Mike is also right on the money for the plumbing.
 
Fordboy