starter with rear engine plate

[Ron Gibson]

It appears that with a 1/4"rear plate on a BBC, the starter only engages about halfway into the flywheel. Been this way since I've had it and keep forgetting to check. It cranks sorta OK but makes (in my opinion) abnormal noises. Are there any longer noses available or modifications to make or am I just going to have to live with it? Any help will be appreciated.

Ron

[SPARKY]

is this a flywheel or a flex plate---why--  is it spaced out from the back of the fly wheel??

[Ron Gibson]

Sparky
Flywheel. Have to re-look (word?) at problem. Tired, OLD, lying on back, pointed wrong way doesn't help situation. Maybe fingers too fast? After more thinking, plate wouldn't change flywheel relationship to conventional starter. DUH! Sounds like other problems to sort out before WF. Runs but want to be sure it's  OK.

Ron

[kiwi belly tank]

One word, "shims".
  Sid.

[SteveM]

Sounds like the flywheel may be shimmed away from the back of the crank to make up for the motor plate distance.   Shimming the starter won't help - it will actually make it worse. This is a noodle scratcher, but there must be a somewhat available solution.  After all, you can't be the first guy to have a BBC and a motor plate.

[floydjer]

if you are using a G.M starter...Cadillac starters have a longer snout.

[Jon]

+ 1 on whAt Sid  is saying 

Sounds like the starter centerline is too close to the crankshaft centerline causing the teeth to bind and not engage fully, only the lead of the teeth on the pinion and ring gear will be engaging.

I've found the same issue a couple of times, a shim between the starter and block opens up the gap between the teeth letting the starter to fully engage.

Rear plate doesn't change the flywheel/starter/crank/block relationship at all.

jon

[jimmy six]

You need to check it out of the car if possible. With the starter hand engaged ( I use a screw driver to wedge out the gear)you need a gap at the bottom of the mesh. I've always use a paper clip and the starter gear on the width of the flywheel/ring-gear. That's what those "help" section are at Pep Boys for the shims.

As for depth, take the starter off the aluminum block and machine where  it fits. I've had a machinist do itat work. Took .100" where the starter attacked to the aluminum block. A Ford is much easier. Good luck

[Ron Gibson]

Hadn't worked on C-words in years. Age caused brain fart, forgot about shims on starters. Closer look shows shiny on top of starter teeth which mean not enough clearance to bendix. Shims should cure.
 Thanks everyone for your input.

Ron

[SteveM]

Brain fart here, too.  I was thinking in terms of one of the very old-school "face mount" Chevy starters, where shimming would move the starter forward on the block.

Steve.