Should the starter wire to +battery terminal pass through the disconnect?

[SteveM]

To meet the rules, and typical standards, is it common for the positive wire from the battery to the starter pass through the main battery disconnect, or not?

All of the other electrical functions will be controlled by this disconnect switch, but I don't have a good idea whether or not the main starter wire should be "broken" by the switch, or remain direct from the battery to the starter.

Steve.

[manta22]

The battery is not truly disconnected unless all wiring goes through the battery "OFF" switch.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[SteveM]

Truth. 

I'm just not sure with the common application in the actual race vehicles.

Steve.

[Glen]

The battery must go thru the disconnect switch

[dw230]

If the battery is off, does the starter turn the engine over?

DW

[SteveM]

Thanks guys.  I just want to be sure that what I'm doing is correct.

Steve.

[Jon]

I know it's not the question that was asked but be mindful of the alternator wiring.

If an alternator is charging and not isolated the motor won't be killed by isolating the battery by an emergency crew.

The likelyhood of coming severely unstuck and ending up with a still running motor is low I know but unsure how things are checked in scrutineering, guessing the motor would have to stop on isolation.
Easily covered with dual contact isolation switches, there are other ways to do it but generally involve more stuff to play up.

jon

[Captthundarr]

Steve, PM sent.

[redhotracing]

Steve-
I run all of the engine and cockpit functions to a battery disconnect switch the
driver can reach, which is then connected to the "rear" battery disconnect. My
alternator is routed to the rear switch in case of a driver being unconscious.
Either way, a conscious driver or emergency crews can cut power to the engine
in case of emergency. Redundancy is always a good thing.

[BurtonBrown]

Possibly a silly question but I would like to have two batteries with two disconnects side by side. One to run strictly the engine and one to run the rest of the stuff. They would be labeled as such.
Any problem with this?
Reasoning I was helping another liner at one time and we actually had to run the engine off of a dewalt cordless battery....because of some issues. Would like to not have that problem in the future.
Both Disconnects and batteries are shown here.
Burton

[RidgeRunner]

     Why not tie the two disconnect handles together along the lines of a multi carb linkage set up so one knob or handle operates both switches at the same time?

          Ed

[Dean Los Angeles]

The disconnect switch has nothing to do with your operation of the vehicle or your wants and needs.

 It is there so the safety crew can quickly kill ALL power from EVERY source with ONE switch.

[jl222]

The disconnect switch has nothing to do with your operation of the vehicle or your wants and needs.

 It is there so the safety crew can quickly kill ALL power from EVERY source with ONE switch.

  We run two disconnect switches one for the driver, one in back, because it can be awhile before safety crew arrive.
 
   And there can also be other problems other than a crash.

   JL222

[1leg]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-1330022/

one switch, cable operated by the driver and/or by a lever in the back of the car by emergency crew.

[wheelrdealer]

That Summit stuff is nice but pricey. I made mine from a spare chute cable. Fabed a linkage that connected the push knob trunk shut off to a cable and made a handle on the trans tunnel. Push the orange handle forward and all power is cut at the trunk switch. I splurged for a $20 billet knob from the Chassis Shop for the trunk knob. The rest was made from the scrap box.  My 1/0 wire runs under the car outside the frame rail to the starter. I jump a 4/0 wire from the starter to a bulkhead stud to bring power into the driver's compartment.

BR