Mod to remove torque converter on Ford C4 box.

[tauruck]

I think that's what it will look like when the mod is done. Thanks. How do I remove the converter from the box without screwing up the box?.

[Captthundarr]

If by box you mean the tranny, the converter should just (supposed to)slide off of the input shaft.

[NathanStewart]

The ones I've used are a flat plate that bolts to the flex plate, has a spigot on one side that goes into the crank and a tube that sticks out the other that has a spline in it to engage the input shaft spline and tangs on the end to drive the pump, the seal on the front of your trans runs on the outside of the tube.

We run a C4 with no converter in the Creel lakester and the setup looks like what's described above.  It's just a plate that bolts to the flywheel and the other side inserts into the tranny like the normal converter would.  Works great.

[Jon]

  Is this what you are looking for, only for a C-4?
  Doug

This style needs to run a manual flywheel as it only bolts the the centre bolt pattern.
An unsupported flexplate is not a pretty thing.

I can't find a pic of the ones I've used but there is a 1/2 plate the full size of the torque converter and bolts up to the original torque converter pattern.

The one pictured is two piece to allow mixing and matching of   different engines and transmissions, if making a one off it just adds complexity and cost, if selling them it lets you have heaps of different options with the minimum of stock.

jon

[tauruck]

I remember being told that there's a technique used to pull the converter off. Getting it wrong damages the pump, I think. Anyone have advice on getting the converter off?. Thanks.

[Captthundarr]

No technique needed. When I changed the converter in our "71 mustang conv. W/a C-4 it just slides out like on the chevys.

[Jon]

I remember being told that there's a technique used to pull the converter off. Getting it wrong damages the pump, I think. Anyone have advice on getting the converter off?. Thanks.

Getting it out is easy, getting them back in is a bit fidlier.
Before you pull it out push the torque converter right in and measure from the bellhousing face to the torque converter mounts, when you put it back together make sure you get it back in that far before you mate the engine and trans. That is where damage can happen, bolting the trans and engine back together without the torque converter fully in.

When putting it back together slide the torque converter on the shaft lightly, it won't go all the way on in one go.
Put light pressure on the torque converter pushing towards the trans and slowly turn the torque converter, a few turns will generally get it fully in.
Most times there will be 2 definite moves as the floating part of the converter goes on its spline and then again when the pump dogs engage.

If you make a torque converter eliminator it will be a bit easier because you won't have a floating section, will still need to follow the same process.

Cheers
jon

[Captthundarr]

What Jon said.

[Elmo Rodge]

Exactly as Jon said. I had it happen to me and I had to have the snout repared/replaced I now know.  Wayno

[tauruck]

Thanks all. I'm a dumb A$$ sometimes but I think age is the culprit. I've got books and one of them is "How to rebuild your Ford V8". It should have dawned on me soooner hey?. I'm god to go now. .

[tauruck]

I would give that a crack Mike.

Get your machinist to measure up all the drive and mounting points of your torque converter.

Take it home and cut it up and pull out the bit with the spline and give it to him.

That way he can can fabricate and machine everything other than the spline, all pretty simple stuff.
Then machine the part the spline is in down so its a press fit inside the tube and give it a couple of plug welds to stop it turning.

It's not the "correct" way to do it but I recon you'd break a lot of driveline components before that lets go.

I am a little rough though, grew up in the sticks and used to making stuff out of what I could lay my hands on.

jon

Jon, I cut the converter up and have three pieces. Do I weld the smaller splined part to the larger one?.

[Geo]

Hey Mike,

Check this out:

http://www.coanracing.com/Catalog.asp?ProductDetail=1124

Geo

[tauruck]

Thanks Geoff, It's the right stuff and that price is the cheapest I've seen but I'm trying to do my own. That setup is 3 grand landed. I have access to the equipment so we're going to make ours here. My problem is what to do with the two shafts from the box. They obviously need to be locked together (welded) but I'm checking with the gurus first.

[Jon]

As well as from the gurus you should have mail from me too Mikey.

jon

[tauruck]

Got it teach. The unmovable outer had me rattled. Thanks, we'll sort it out.