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Author Topic: APS/Ω Gas turbine bike build  (Read 552585 times)
sailingadventure and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.
Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #1035 on: September 13, 2015, 02:44:53 AM »

"APS" stands for Motorcycle class Special Constructions, and the Omega sign is the engine class electric/steam/turbine.
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Stainless1
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« Reply #1036 on: September 13, 2015, 10:24:30 AM »

It's all in the rule book Jack... you just have to venture through the other hundred pages...
 shocked  grin   cheers
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Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, MSA Bockscar Lakester with a little N20 
MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
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« Reply #1037 on: September 13, 2015, 04:53:53 PM »

The PS in APS is for "partial streamlining"
G
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Wazavudu Bellytank  Spirit of Sunshine Bellytank
Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #1038 on: September 14, 2015, 03:57:54 PM »

Yesterday night I spent in the workshop modifying the bearings to get rid of the rotor drag, made good progress but the upcoming test will show if anything has actually improved. Smiley



I made a groove around the journal bearing seats so the oil pressure acts on the whole bearing instead of just the top like before.



I also drilled a set of holes in the rear thrust washer to let oil in from the front journal bearing to the space between the washer and the thrust bearing, I shamelessly stole this idea from John who have experienced the same rotor drag as I.



Here you can see some old wear marks in the washer from the thrust bearing, hopefully the new oil film will keep the two separated from now on.



I did the usual propane flame test to see if any of the injectors were blocked, as you can see the one at 8 o´clock was partially clogged which might have messed with the combustion and increased the interstage temp reading.



I just had to remove it and silver solder a new 0.7mm syringe injector in place, easy as ABC since I´ve done it a few times now...



Close to midnight I had started to assemble the engine again before it was time to hit the bed, I removed the FOD damage marks on the diffusor wedges before assembling the compressor diffusor section.



Cheers!
/Anders
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #1039 on: September 18, 2015, 04:14:42 PM »

Today I put the engine together to try the bearing modifications out, I did everything properly just in case the rotor stricture issue would be solved.



The test showed that the rotor still stiffens up when oil pressure is applied, the modifications were probably still useful in their own way but didn´t solve the stricture. I have an idea what might be the problem though, I´ll thing about it a bit and get back to you.



After that I straightened the broken freepower vanes and welded them in place, I added a bit more weld to the other vanes as well so they won´t crack again.



While welding the vanes I found these marks from the power turbine wheel rubbing the housing, it is most likely an old damage from the first test ride when the turbine shaft front bearing cage melted due to lack of cooling.



With the housing left to cool down I cut the seat apart and modified it to fit 10cm further back, this way I will get more room for my head behind the wind screen.



Cheers!
/Anders
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #1040 on: September 20, 2015, 04:25:42 PM »

FINALLY!!!

I managed to solve the darn rotor stricture tonight! I grasped the last hay straw as we say here in Sweden and decided to secure the rear thrust washer that up until now has been loosely fitted in a recess.



My guess was that the oil pressure applied on the journal bearing just behind the thrust washer would push it forward up against the axial bearing just like a hydraulic brake. I fitted four M4 screws to hold the washer in place.


 
Here they are fitted, I assembled the engine and tested it with 5 kg oil pressure and the rotor spun almost as freely as without any oil pressure at all! Hooray! smiley



I am very glad to finally have solved this issue, now I won´t have to make the same mistake on the upcoming JU-02 engine.

Cheers!
/Anders
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Old Scrambler
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« Reply #1041 on: September 20, 2015, 06:35:33 PM »

Anders, you always amaze me with just happening to have the perfect solution AND ALL OF THE REQUIRED FASTENERS at your ready smiley smiley smiley
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2011 AMA Record - 250cc M-PG TRIUMPH Tiger Cub - 82.5 mph
2013 AMA Record - 250cc MPS-PG TRIUMPH Tiger Cub - 88.7 mph
2018 AMA Record - 750cc M-CG HONDA CB750 sohc - 136.6 mph
2018 AMA Record - 750cc MPS-CG HONDA CB750 sohc - 143.005 mph
2018 AMA Record - 750cc M-CF HONDA CB750 sohc - 139.85 mph
2018 AMA Record - 750cc MPS-CF HONDA CB750 sohc - 144.2025 mph

Chassis Builder / Tuner: Dave Murre
Glen
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« Reply #1042 on: September 20, 2015, 06:36:42 PM »

Good job and save. cheers cheers
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Glen
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #1043 on: September 20, 2015, 11:02:03 PM »

Anders, you always amaze me with just happening to have the perfect solution AND ALL OF THE REQUIRED FASTENERS at your ready smiley smiley smiley

Yeah, it was real lucky that I had a set of "special gas turbine proof M4 thrust washer fastener" screws in storage.

Or, were they just cheap 8.8 supermarket screws? Who can tell, they all look the same... grin
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #1044 on: September 21, 2015, 03:08:02 PM »

While making the final adjustments to the JU-01 engine and racing the bike I will build a new and more powerful JU-02 engine during the next couple of years, it will use the same exhaust turbine as the JU-01 but have a significantly larger compressor wheel to increase both boost pressure and mass flow.



My friend John Wallis is the guy behind the calculations for the JU-02 engine and has donated a set of rotary parts for the cause, it is sort of a combined effort where he is the brains and I am the muscles. *LOL*



I will build the JU-02 as an updated big sister for the JU-01, most of the design is sound and the gremlins are sorted out so I´ll only change a few things that I think I can make improvements to. To start with I made a drawing in Inventor Fusion of the sand casting pattern for the compressor diffusor, and yesterday I started 3D printing it.



Here is a series of pictures from the printing process, it took 18 hours to complete with 0.2mm layers and 20% infill.









The wedges has a 1° taper to make it easier to remove from the casting sand, after some sanding down I think it will be smooth enough to work.



I got the rotor assembly 3D scanned this summer and a couple of weeks ago I printed a copy of the compressor wheel just for fun. It lacks the protruding rear center so I could fit it to the diffusor to see how things line up.



As you could see in the pics during printing there are two alignment holes on the back of the pattern, the thrust bearing housing on the rear of the diffusor plate has to be printed as a separate piece since it needs to be removable during the sand casting process.



Cheers!
/Anders
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« Reply #1045 on: September 21, 2015, 03:29:15 PM »

It is a brave new world of hot rodding!  Anders your skills are very impressive  cheers  Dean
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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #1046 on: September 21, 2015, 10:24:20 PM »

Anders, can you stick that digitizing wand down a spark plug hole to make an image of a cylinder so as to determine bore and stroke?
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #1047 on: September 22, 2015, 02:30:59 AM »

Thanks Dean! If this works it is a small revolution in DIY sand casting pattern making, I´ll soon find out. smiley

Wobblywalrus: That would be useful for the race techs, but nope. Couldn´t the displacement be measured quite accurately with kerosene?
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RidgeRunner
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« Reply #1048 on: September 22, 2015, 06:18:21 AM »

Anders

     Back in another time oil was used with the valves made inoperative to remain closed.

                   Ed
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manta22
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« Reply #1049 on: September 22, 2015, 10:21:08 AM »

Anders;

Wouldn't a "lost wax" casting process be more accurate than sand cast?

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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