Landracing Forum Home
June 16, 2019, 02:22:14 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
News:
BACK TO LANDRACING.COM HOMEPAGE
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar Login Register  


(Note: Donations are not tax deductible)







Live Audio Streaming and Archives of Past Events
Next Live Event: TBD



Forum's going down again sometime!
The first and second "rebuilds" ran into some bigtime problems.
Regrouping again....
Pages: 1 ... 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 [54] 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 ... 121   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: APS/Ω Gas turbine bike build  (Read 593666 times)
0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.
Mobacken Racing
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Age: 37
Location: Östersund - Sweden
Posts: 848


Turbine junkie


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #795 on: December 30, 2014, 04:37:25 PM »

Thanks!

I started making the glass fiber fairing a couple of days ago, the plan was to make a negative mold on the styrofoam plug to cast the real fairing in but since I am a bit pressed on time with the race coming up in less than two months I decided to make the fairing directly on the plug instead.



To keep the polyester from melting the styrofoam I covered the plug in both tape and plastic foil, I was a bit nervous since I hadn´t done this before and on top of that had decided to cut some corners with the directly-on-plug casting.



After four layers of woven glass fiber put on two layers each day with time for it to cure in between it looked like this. I let it rest until today and after an 18km night run with a friend I decided to see how it turned out.



Not bad at all! Much better than I could possibly have guessed in fact. smiley



I have only trimmed the fairing sides with an angle grinder so the fit against the frame will be better later when I have spent some more work on it, it looks to have a very snug fit against the top of the tyre but there is >5cm clearance which is good since the spiked tyre will need some extra space.



I haven´t decided yet if I should leave the opening as it is or block it off with a sheet of aluminum, I would appreciate suggestions from someone who is into bike aerodynamics about this.



Anyway, I am very pleased with how it turned out. Some glass fiber putty, a bit of grinding and a layer of 2K paint and it will look even better. smiley

Cheers!
/Anders
Logged
tauruck
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Age: N/A
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
Posts: 4883





Ignore
« Reply #796 on: December 30, 2014, 08:49:25 PM »

You did a nice job on the glass work. cheers

You're a natural, it looks great.

I'd leave the back open.
Logged

Mobacken Racing
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Age: 37
Location: Östersund - Sweden
Posts: 848


Turbine junkie


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #797 on: December 31, 2014, 01:47:42 AM »

Thanks a lot Tauruck! smiley

It "looks right" to the eye to have an open rear end so with you confirming this I´ll leave it as it is, might be that I have to fit a strip of aluminum on the inside to hold the shape symmetrical.

A set of DZUS locks have been ordered from UK, should arrive in the middle of january.

Cheers!
/Anders
Logged
MattGuzzetta
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Age: 77
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 100





Ignore
« Reply #798 on: December 31, 2014, 11:55:01 AM »

Anders, I have enjoyed followiing your build, very impressive!  Your workmanship looks great and the work on the plug looks really nice. I have a suggestion for you to try next time you are doing some glass work.  I learned a trick about trimming the excess glass when doing a lay up.  You can trim the glass with a razor (blade or box cutter type tool) when the resin has kicked, but is not hard.  There is a "sweet spot" in time that allows you to just run the blade around the edge and cut the cloth and mat easily.  It makes for less grinding, the part of fiberglassing that is the least liked!
Keep the build info coming, you are an amazing guy! grin
Matt Guzzetta
Logged
JimL
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Age: 72
Location: Sutherlin, Oregon
Posts: 762





Ignore
« Reply #799 on: December 31, 2014, 08:59:58 PM »

...and a roofers "hook knife" is really great because it is really easy to steer!  The extra grip and power buy you just a little more trimming time as the resin kicks off.

J
Logged
tallguy
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Location: Northern California
Posts: 166




Ignore
« Reply #800 on: January 01, 2015, 01:39:07 AM »

Anders, that's a great-looking bit of fiberglass work.  Regarding airflow,
I have a concern about air from underneath trying to lift the fiberglass
section from the bike.  You might want to think about adding some
thickness for strength, and a generous amount of bracketry and
fasteners to hold it all attached.  Leaving the back end open should
help by giving air a place to exit.  Good luck.
Logged
sofadriver
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Age: 68
Location: tacoma, wa
Posts: 518





Ignore
« Reply #801 on: January 01, 2015, 03:34:13 AM »

Anders, the work looks fine but I think you can go one better. To reduce drag, the tail section should be the same size as your butt/hips and then taper back to your Kamm tail. As it is, it looks like you're going to get a lot of drag right behind your backside (and legs).
 Just sayin'.
Logged

Mike in Tacoma

"aww, what the hell - let's just do it".............

Bike #833
100cc A/G, A/F and APS/G (in 2019)
Mobacken Racing
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Age: 37
Location: Östersund - Sweden
Posts: 848


Turbine junkie


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #802 on: January 01, 2015, 03:24:12 PM »

Matt & Jim: Thanks for the advise, I´ll try that the next time I do glass fiber work.

Tallguy: Good pointer about lift, I´ll make sure to clamp it down as good as I can. Perhaps a strip of stainless steel fixed to the inside of the fairing with a couple of layers of glass fiber mat?

Sofadriver: You are absolutely right, my behind will be a bit higher than the front of the fairing. Consider this a work in progress, with the fairing done I can later add styrofoam to get the right shape and make a mold for the MK2 fairings.

Right now I just need to get a fairing on the bike and get some seat time, later on I can start chasing down the causes of excessive drag.

Cheers guys!
/Anders
Logged
tauruck
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Age: N/A
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
Posts: 4883





Ignore
« Reply #803 on: January 01, 2015, 05:47:07 PM »

Anders, I have enjoyed followiing your build, very impressive!  Your workmanship looks great and the work on the plug looks really nice. I have a suggestion for you to try next time you are doing some glass work.  I learned a trick about trimming the excess glass when doing a lay up.  You can trim the glass with a razor (blade or box cutter type tool) when the resin has kicked, but is not hard.  There is a "sweet spot" in time that allows you to just run the blade around the edge and cut the cloth and mat easily.  It makes for less grinding, the part of fiberglassing that is the least liked!
Keep the build info coming, you are an amazing guy! grin
Matt Guzzetta

Matt, you've worked with glass. cheers cheers cheers cheers
Logged

sofadriver
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Age: 68
Location: tacoma, wa
Posts: 518





Ignore
« Reply #804 on: January 01, 2015, 09:56:42 PM »

....... my behind will be a bit higher than the front of the fairing. Consider this a work in progress, with the fairing done I can later add styrofoam to get the right shape and make a mold for the MK2 fairings
/Anders

ya' know, Anders, that gives me an idea. I might just make my inner fender (required to keep the insides of my thighs off the tire) and the tail fairing as one (hollow) unit. It would be stronger, less prone to flexing and easier to mount.

love how this place gives me new ideas.

Logged

Mike in Tacoma

"aww, what the hell - let's just do it".............

Bike #833
100cc A/G, A/F and APS/G (in 2019)
Mobacken Racing
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Age: 37
Location: Östersund - Sweden
Posts: 848


Turbine junkie


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #805 on: January 03, 2015, 11:21:53 AM »

These kind of forums never seizes to amaze me, there is always someone who helps out or gives a hint in the right direction for a problem that needs to be solved. smiley
Logged
Mobacken Racing
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Age: 37
Location: Östersund - Sweden
Posts: 848


Turbine junkie


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #806 on: January 06, 2015, 05:00:47 PM »

Hi guys! After a long Christmas vacation it was time to pull the thumbs out and get some work done on the bike!



I made a template for the side covers on the rear frame, I will cut them out in sheet metal later this week. I also removed some material from the jet exhausts to get the exhaust angled more towards the rear than straight out.



After that I fixed some bits and pieces, changed the emergency stop to an NC instead of the NO I accidentally bought earlier, got all air out from the front brake system, started planning for a metal front fender for the spiked tyre, did some more planning on a fire extinguisher built from a Soda Streamer gas bottle and played some Slayer while cleaning up the workshop. smiley



I have made a long list of stuff I need to get for the bike so hopefully I can source all of it in a week or two, I will try to have the bike ready as soon as possible so I won´t have to work all night before hauling it to Speed Weekend.

Cheers!
/Anders
Logged
55chevr
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2241





Ignore
« Reply #807 on: January 06, 2015, 07:52:16 PM »

no matter how you do it there will be wrenching at midnight the day before.
Logged
wobblywalrus
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Age: 65
Location: backwoods Oregon
Posts: 4938





Ignore
« Reply #808 on: January 06, 2015, 09:43:32 PM »

Anders, it is not hard to split a fiberglas part down the middle and to add a section between the halves to make it wider.  It is a lot quicker than starting over from the beginning.  You can also trim the halves and splice them together to make the assembly narrower, if desired.

This is how I do fiberglass jobs 'cause I do not get too excited about working with the stuff.  It is to order something that looks reasonably good from aerotech and to cut and splice it to the final dimensions.
Logged
Mobacken Racing
Sr. Member
****
Offline Offline

Age: 37
Location: Östersund - Sweden
Posts: 848


Turbine junkie


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #809 on: January 07, 2015, 06:10:57 AM »

no matter how you do it there will be wrenching at midnight the day before.

Very true, we usually get more done the last week before the race than during the rest of the year. smiley

Wobblywalrus: Exactly, when I have this fairing in place I have something to work on. Later I will have to get serious with the aerodynamics since I won´t have an excess of power with this engine (150RWhp or slightly more) but first I need to make the drive line as bullet proof as possible.

Cheers!
/Anders
Logged
Pages: 1 ... 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 [54] 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 ... 121   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines
Simple Audio Video Embedder
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!


Google visited last this page February 15, 2019, 06:52:41 AM