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Author Topic: APS/Ω Gas turbine bike build  (Read 405143 times)
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Rex Schimmer
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Only time and money prevent completion!




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« Reply #450 on: April 25, 2014, 01:21:44 PM »

Anders,
You have made the right choice in going with the mist lube for your bearings, this is how high speed (10,000 rpm+) spindles are lubed also glad to see you are not squirting oil on the gear mesh, when you direct the oil into the point where the gears mesh you will make the gears into not very efficient oil pumps that will develop high temperatures and high drag. Best high speed gear lube is having a mist of oil directed at the gear after the mesh.

Love your project!

Rex
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #451 on: April 25, 2014, 03:03:19 PM »

Hi Rex,

Good to hear that, the idea right now is to lube the gears and the output shaft bearings with a wet sump. I have no idea but it feels like the 5000rpm output gear will be able to keep the oil stuck to it all the way around to the pinion gear, please correct me if I am wrong though.

If the mist oiler turns out well I might convert the entire gearbox to mist lubrication but for now I will have to cut some corners to have it ready for a road test this summer.

Yesterday the M12x1.0 die I ordered a couple of weeks ago arrived so I could finish lowering the fork legs.



I shortened them 6cm which feels about right, this particular fork needs to have the inner damper tube cut and rethreaded when the Hayabusa forks and others only needs to have the spring spacers replaced.



One leg done, one to go.



I took the frame outside a while ago to get some decent pictures of it, looks a bit high now without the underhung oil and kerosine tanks.



I fitted the gas producer just for the fun of it, I can almost hear it moan "polish me, polish meeeeeeeee......"



I can´t say that the frame is very wide, the widest part of the bike while riding will probably be my smile. Smiley



Cheers!
/Anders
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Glen
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« Reply #452 on: April 25, 2014, 03:42:42 PM »

Love it, great work. cheers
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Glen
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #453 on: April 25, 2014, 03:47:49 PM »

Thanks Glen! smiley
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lsrjunkie
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« Reply #454 on: April 25, 2014, 06:48:05 PM »

Beautiful Anders! It's amazing what a little paint can do. I love the reinforced backbone on the bike. Looking forward to more!  cheers
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« Reply #455 on: April 25, 2014, 09:14:10 PM »

They say if it looks right, it goes right and that looks great. cheers
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #456 on: April 26, 2014, 03:14:48 AM »

Thank you very much! smiley
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Rasmussen
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« Reply #457 on: April 26, 2014, 07:06:27 AM »

Looks real good Anders smiley

I`ve been thinking about this since you posted it, probably a stupid question, but just have to ask: what happens to the air, that is blown into the gearbox to carry the oilmist? It must require quite some deairation device somewhere, not? huh
Love the idea, but can`t really figure that out. But, then again I only understand less than half of how this thing works grin
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #458 on: April 26, 2014, 10:06:02 AM »

Thanks Rasmussen!

A good question, I will have a large breather on the gearbox to avoid any pressure build up inside that will push out the output shaft seals.

/Anders
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #459 on: April 27, 2014, 04:48:53 PM »

After a couple of test ejectors built I have found that they need a large pressure drop to work, the ones I´ve built work just fine until I connect the length of tube that will connect it to the bearing tunnel and then the ejector stops pulling oil.



With that figured out I have decided to use the industrial mist oiler after all, the only downside is the plastic internals that won´t take the heat of the bleed air at full throttle but a simple heat sink like a coil of copper tubing should take care of that.



I fitted a hydraulic coupling to the bearing tunnel and tested it at 2 bar air pressure with OKQ8 Wagner 68 gear oil, works like a charm and the amount of oil is fully adjustable on the mist oiler so I think this will work. One other great thing is that a new one can be bought cheap off the shelf in case this one fails me, not a bad thing to have a couple in store when going over seas. Smiley



Here you can see the entry hole for the air/oil into the bearing tunnel.



I have to modify the exhaust pipe somewhat since the coupling hits it when I assemble the parts, after that I can start assembling the gearbox with the new ceramic bearings.



Cheers!
/Anders
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #460 on: April 29, 2014, 04:44:10 PM »

I spent a couple of hours on the power turbine today.



The exhaust housing hit the fitting on the shaft tunnel for the oil/air mix so I had to modify it somewhat to get some clearance.



Then I assembled the input shaft housing to simulate a static condition to see if it still would flow oil with the real life air restriction through the bearings, and to my great relief it transported a good amount of oil to the shaft tunnel and after a little while the oil had pooled up to the point that it reaches the ball races.



This was at only 2bar air pressure so I will have even better air flow in real life since the P2 will be close to 3bar when racing. I am aware that this is only a static test so I have no idea how it will work with the bearings spinning, but I guess there is only one way to find out. smiley



I am also painfully aware of that this solution is far from optimal, but I am cramped both of space and battery capacity and it is by far the easiest way with the least modifications to the gearbox so I will give it a try before I add high pressure lube jets and such.

Cheers!
/Anders
« Last Edit: April 29, 2014, 04:47:17 PM by Mobacken Racing » Logged
Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #461 on: May 02, 2014, 03:43:49 PM »

With the oiling hopefully sorted out it was time to get the gearbox painted, my father is visiting this weekend and helped me with masking the gearbox and taking some pictures.



After some sand blasting and degreasing I started painting the gearbox, 180°C engine block paint should withstand the radiant heat from the power turbine exhaust.



One layer of paint done, I´ll get up early tomorrow and put another on it. Black brush paint seldom turns out pretty in the daylight but what matters is that it won´t rust.



Cheers!
/Anders
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Buickguy3
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« Reply #462 on: May 02, 2014, 04:55:25 PM »

   POR 15 brushes on nicely and is pretty heat resistant and just about bullet proof.
     Doug  cheers cheers cheers
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Mobacken Racing
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« Reply #463 on: May 03, 2014, 03:27:29 PM »

This paint was also very easy to work with, a bit dusty in the workshop unfortunately but after all this is a race bike and no Dodge exhibition bike.  smiley

I made a bracket for the oil dribbler just now, it sits snugly between the seat and the battery.



Now it was about time to start modelling the rear fender, I will use styrofoam blocks to make the plug and then cast glass fiber on it. A hot wire cutter is used to get a rough shape on the blocks and I will then sand the assembled fender to its final shape.



I only had material for two blocks so I have to go shopping next week. Smiley



Cheers!
/Anders
« Last Edit: May 03, 2014, 03:29:30 PM by Mobacken Racing » Logged
wobblywalrus
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« Reply #464 on: May 03, 2014, 09:31:31 PM »

Anders, if you can, its a good idea to put the front fender on the bike along with the fairing before you shape the tail.  have someone take pictures of you on the bike from the front, back, and sides.  Carefully look at the pictures.  This will help you to shape the tail to blend in with you and the front part of the bike. 
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