Solid front axle mounting options

[lsrjunkie]

I have emailed Tech and am awaiting a reply, but I was curious to know what you all think about my ideas on mounting a front solid front axle. Ideally I would use parallel leaf spring perches welded to the axle. Next, notch the 2x4 frame rails approximately one inch on top, and finally build a pair of pads in the frame notches that correspond with the pads on the axle and secure each side with for grade 8 bolts. (Basically the axle will be mounted on top of the frame.) Any thoughts? Am I nuts? Will it pass tech?

[bearingburner]

What happens when the salt is rough ?

[lsrjunkie]

The coil overs in the rear soak up some of the bumps and I clench my teeth so they don't rattle! 

[Dynoroom]

This car (and many others) run solid front axles.     Both on the dirt and salt...

My drivers have never driven anything else so they don't know you can't do it.   

[Tman]

This car (and many others) run solid front axles.     Both on the dirt and salt...

My drivers have never driven anything else so they don't know you can't do it.   

Do you have a close shot of the actual mounting bracket? I am in the middle of redesigning mine.

[Dynoroom]

These are the best I can find. Hope it helps.

[Richard 2]

Dynoroom,
What brand, type, kind of front hubs are you using?

[lsrjunkie]

Dyno, That is sexy! How much caster you running? Also, after seeing that your axle has obviously been narrowed, I wonder what Tech would say about splitting a solid axle and running each half, properly supported of course, on each side of the frame?

Richard, Looks to me like Wilwood hubs on early ford spindles. I'm running the same setup minus the spindles. Mine are early chevy (49-54).

[Dynoroom]

Dyno, That is sexy! How much caster you running? Also, after seeing that your axle has obviously been narrowed, I wonder what Tech would say about splitting a solid axle and running each half, properly supported of course, on each side of the frame?

Richard, Looks to me like Wilwood hubs on early ford spindles. I'm running the same setup minus the spindles. Mine are early chevy (49-54).

Thanks Junkie,

We run 18 degrees caster.

As far as splitting the axle............ I might know of at least one car that's done it. 

Richard, Junkie is right, Wilwood hubs on '40 Ford spindles.

[Richard 2]

Thanks, I'm looking for Bonneville hubs made by Magnum Axle for Ford Spindles, but Magnum does not answer the phone. The flanges on these hubs are set in 3/4".  

Are the Wilwood hubs set in?

[JimL]

I wouldnt weld on the tube.  We ran a clamp system that had a locator pin.  No problems with that setup even in'99s potholes and El Mirage late in the day.  The next owner removed our clamp system and then welded flanges to the tube.  Bent the tube just outboard of the welds on both sides, running at Bonneville.

Our clamps were C shaped with a welded up bolt box to allow spreading the clamp load.  If you run the dropped axle, use radius rods to prevent twisting from bumps.  We ran a straight tube without radius rods and no problem.

Also, we ran Sprint car forged spindles, which take older 3/4 ton Ford inner bearings (very tough and can take pounding with no suspension).  We had aluminum front hubs made that were shaped like a top-hat.  This pulled the scrub radius in where it needed to be.  Very simple, strong, and easy to service. 

[lsrjunkie]

Jim, Got any pictures of that setup? Trying to picture it in my head is proving to be a bit difficult.

Dyno, Do you have a better picture of the front end on that roadster. And if memory serves me right I saw that little car go REAL fast a couple of years ago.

[Tman]

Thanks Dyno! That shows once again that I am overkill on yet another part

I will procede with my program.

[Stainless1]

The front axle on the Bockscar is on suspension... it is 14 inches from the load point to the king pin.  The mount was a 1/4 plate welded to a 1.5 x 3/16  inch 1018 mild steel tube, 37 degrees caster, 1800lb car.
After experiencing an axle failure at the weld line on our front axle a couple of years ago (after about 20 years or so of use), we decided the load was too concentrated at the weld line.  So we tried to spread it out a little.  That is the picture.
the tube is now 1/4 wall, as is the over tube.  Worked great this year, I'll give you another update in 20 years.

[Dynoroom]

Junkie,
I'm sure I can dig up a couple more but I'm away from my computer until Tuesday. Maybe then.
If you look close you might be able to follow what we did here. The tube was cut in the middle and a 2 foot bar was inserted so we could shorten the axle to the length we wanted. This is the weld you see in the center. There are also roset welds in 4 locations on each side of the center weld. The axle ends are also inserted into the tube and fishmouth welded right next to the frame mount pads. These are also roset welded. When I get back I'll see if I can find the pictures of the unpainted axle.
As a side note what you can't see is the offset shims that fit into the frame pads that allow the whole axle to be raised or lowered 1".

As far as being fast goes, it's all relative. We ran our best speeds this year at Bonneville (241 mph with a "C" engine N/A) but our compitition is quite a bit faster than us. On the good side we set the record again at El Mirage so now both my son are in the "dirty 2" club.