Author Topic: Super T10 rebuild  (Read 3104 times)

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Offline jdincau

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Super T10 rebuild
« on: December 20, 2012, 01:36:34 PM »
I am in the process of swaping in a new input shaft and cluster to get a closer ratio between third and fourth gear. While I was at it I thought I might leave out all the reverse gear parts. I don't think there are any problems with doing this but I have been wrong more than once with that premise. Am I wrong?
Unless it's crazy, ambitious and delusional, it's not worth our time!

Offline Stan Back

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Re: Super T10 rebuild
« Reply #1 on: December 20, 2012, 02:04:47 PM »
We did that years ago.  I was advised (Waters and Wilson kept having trouble) to put a grease fitting in the rear bearing as the reverse idler(?) was used to splashing the rear bearing.  Don't know if that's the truth, but it's been good for 12 years.  I just grease it once a year (when I remember).

The shifter guy in NC said it was worth 1-1/2 - 2 HP.  Don't really know.

Stan
Member of the San Berdoo Roadsters -- "California's Most-Exclusive Roadster Club".
Celebrating 67th anniversary of racing on the salt.

Offline jdincau

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Re: Super T10 rebuild
« Reply #2 on: December 20, 2012, 02:27:30 PM »
Stan,
     Do you mean the bushing in the tail shaft for the slip yoke?
Jim
Unless it's crazy, ambitious and delusional, it's not worth our time!

Offline Stan Back

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Re: Super T10 rebuild
« Reply #3 on: December 20, 2012, 02:52:37 PM »
Yes -- sorry I wasn't that clear.
Member of the San Berdoo Roadsters -- "California's Most-Exclusive Roadster Club".
Celebrating 67th anniversary of racing on the salt.

Offline jdincau

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Re: Super T10 rebuild
« Reply #4 on: December 20, 2012, 03:05:07 PM »
Neat, I have to replace the bushing anyway so I will add a zerk fitting. Thanks.
Unless it's crazy, ambitious and delusional, it's not worth our time!

Offline fwillyj

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Re: Super T10 rebuild
« Reply #5 on: December 20, 2012, 05:15:30 PM »
-in case you might be interested here's a short story about how I "slickshifted" 3rd & 4th gear on the super T-10 that we ran in Zupans #1727 G/fmr.
--------------------------------------------------------
SLICKSHIFTING A T-10 4 SPEED
-explaining the process of doing 3rd gear, the inner teeth of the sliding synchro collar and set up of the main clutch shaft
-this is done in a milling machine.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CUTTING 3RD GEAR

1-mark every other tooth , 18 out of 36, to be cut away.

2-use a 1/4” carbide burr with a rounded nose.

3-rpm of mill can be 750 to 1000rpm.

4-bolt 3rd gear to mill table and align one tooth to endmill.

5-set the stop to the bottom of the tooth, leave quill clear down for set-up.

6-start the mill, with the quill clear down, run the burr to just touch the tooth, set digital X-axis travel to zero or use a dial
   indicator to measure the X-axis table travel.

7-raise the burr and advance the tooth in .015” steps and plunge the tooth until you get to .115” which removes the tooth.

8-then sweep back and forth slightly to clean a flat surface without touching the adjacent teeth.

9-takes about 40 minutes to do 18 teeth on 3rd gear.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

CUTTING THE INSIDE TEETH OF THE SLIDING SYNCHRO COLLAR.

1-same basic setup procedure.

2-clamp with collar to the mill table with a large diameter thick washer that has a notch cut out so you can view the teeth to
   be cut, and recess the bolt head into the washer.

3.plunge .320” deep and use .015” increment plunges to remove .104” (instead of the .115” removed from the gear).

4.takes about 30 minutes for each side of the sliding collar.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

SETTING UP THE MAIN CLUTCH SHAFT GEAR

1-mount the drive gear shaft into a large vise using special v-block clamping aluminum jaws.

Offline Stan Back

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Re: Super T10 rebuild
« Reply #6 on: December 20, 2012, 06:56:16 PM »
I certainly think this advise is well-founded.  But after four or so miles, the pickup by slick-shifting may be neglible -- at least to us.
Member of the San Berdoo Roadsters -- "California's Most-Exclusive Roadster Club".
Celebrating 67th anniversary of racing on the salt.

Offline jdincau

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Re: Super T10 rebuild
« Reply #7 on: December 20, 2012, 07:21:50 PM »
While I have the skills, tools and machinery to accomplish this mod I have to agree with Stan. The driver has never complained about the speed and smoothness of the shifting process and I am of the "if it ain't broke don't fix it school" See my tag line.
Unless it's crazy, ambitious and delusional, it's not worth our time!

Online jimmy six

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Re: Super T10 rebuild
« Reply #8 on: December 21, 2012, 10:59:54 PM »
I had one of those done like that and it finally would not stay in high gear. Had to replace everything. Now I use a Tex and don't need to use the clutch at all. What did you get for the gearing Jim..................JD
First GMC 6 powered Fuel roadster over 200, with 2 red hats. Pit crew for Patrick Tone's Super Stock #49 Camaro

Offline jdincau

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Re: Super T10 rebuild
« Reply #9 on: December 22, 2012, 12:13:23 AM »
 2.43 low, 1.61 second, 1.23 third, shifting at 7,800 it changes the RPM drop 3rd to 4th from 2,000 RPM to 1,400. Thats the best I could get with standard ST10 parts. Also we are going to push Tony off the line so he can get after it right away and not worry about abusing the clutch.
Unless it's crazy, ambitious and delusional, it's not worth our time!

Offline fastman614

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Re: Super T10 rebuild
« Reply #10 on: January 07, 2013, 03:08:23 AM »
There were Super T10s made at one time that had 1.19 - 1 third gear ratios.... they were touted as being for road racing....
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