Author Topic: Ford "Tauruck".  (Read 91381 times)

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Offline tauruck

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Re: Ford "Tauruck".
« Reply #15 on: December 09, 2012, 02:03:56 AM »
Here's one with the peel ply while still uncured. I'll remove it and fix small imperfections on the back when I cut out out the seat belt holes.

Offline tauruck

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Re: Ford "Tauruck".
« Reply #16 on: December 09, 2012, 02:16:19 AM »
This is an off cut of the Honeycomb I used. I had a square yard in the shop and I contemplated throwing it away so many times. Glad I didn't. I used a roll of some very expensive 3M duct tape to get the honeycomb positioned on the mould so I could trim it to shape but it was easy to cut using a utility knife. I used an epoxy adhesive on the surface of the first cured side to get the honeycomb"down". It was a bitch to do but luckily most of the epoxy products cure slowly giving one time for banging your head against the wall asking why you always choose to do impossible stuff. I'd say I got lucky with this component.

Offline Koncretekid

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Re: Ford "Tauruck".
« Reply #17 on: December 09, 2012, 11:02:54 AM »
Fascinating work!  I wish you lived down the street from me so I could just come down and give you a hand.  Then we could re-make my bodywork in a much lighter material.  My tail section alone weighs almost 20 lbs.  It was custom made by a local boat builder,  but then, he's a boat builder!
Tom
We get too soon oldt, and too late schmart!
Life's uncertain - eat dessert first!

Offline tauruck

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Re: Ford "Tauruck".
« Reply #18 on: December 10, 2012, 03:31:52 AM »
Thanks man. No, I wish I lived down the street from you  :-D. I'm stuck in Africa and it's a little lonely doing this kind of project here. I'm also a biker so I get on well with fellow riders. I guess your friend used chopped strand mat with Polyester resin. I call that glass the resin thief. It just swallows the stuff. Even using Poly you can make a nice part if you used woven glass fabric. Most times guys try use a piece of material that fits the mold and if you're a novice it tends to get away from you. Overlapped smaller pieces will work just as well in most cases. Here's another piece to my puzzle. Right side door section and roof mold. On the roof I have two mini molds for flap devices similar to the ones used in Sprint cup. The one over the driver's head is way bigger and will allow me a quick exit if need be.

Offline wobblywalrus

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Re: Ford "Tauruck".
« Reply #19 on: December 10, 2012, 11:50:04 PM »
Amazing.  That seat mold looks good.  My windshield mold did not look nearly as uniform and smooth. 

Offline tauruck

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Re: Ford "Tauruck".
« Reply #20 on: December 11, 2012, 12:41:56 AM »
Hey Bo, thanks man. A good palm sander, piles of water paper help but you have to switch off. If you think too hard about it you'll bolt and never look back. Sanity is not a requirement  :-D. I try not spending too much time on a particular part. I jump around and then get back to it for a while. It's the only way. If I had the bucks I'd pay someone to do the sanding and polishing. I hate it. I have one major panel left to do, it's the left front fender. It's been difficult because when I build a plug I use anything at hand to build the shape and in the case of the front fenders I have steel, resin mixed with filler and two different types of Bondo both with different degrees of hardness. As luck would have it all these materials ended up on the surface. Try sanding that mix. I got into it with the grinder to get rid of the metal and then used about a hundred coats of spray filler. It's so bad that I convinced myself I'll polish the remaining imperfections out in the mold and then sand the final part as well. I use a spray filler as my Gel Coat. It saves on weight and makes final finishing much easier for the painter. I have a good bottle of Tequila sitting in the shop just waiting for the day I finish the final mold. Some good Rock music from the 70s, salt and a bunch of lemons will do it. I'll be styling and not sharing a drop with anyone, my Jack Russels don't drink!!! :cheers:

Offline tauruck

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Re: Ford "Tauruck".
« Reply #21 on: December 13, 2012, 12:35:19 AM »
I'll be running a twin turbo setup on my Ford so I had to come up with an inlet manifold. The idea is to use Aluminium plate for mounting it and have the runners, plenum and air box done in Carbon Fibre. The dummy block is mounted in the car so I took measurements, did a drawing and started scrounging around in my mold store for bits and pieces I could use to fabricate a plug. I never throw molds away even if they were for one off jobs. I found the mold for an air box I did for a guy called Dale. He had a Sonny Leonard 510 in his Comaro and they had a little 2" pipe T piece setup trying to feed air to the beast. I built him a proper air box and the mold looked like it had roughly the right dimensions so I put it on one side. Then I found a mold for a hood bulge that has a tear drop shape to it. Cool. I pulled out a mold for a 4" brake duct and I had more or less what I needed. I got to work prepping the molds and made some parts from Polyester and chopped strand. Some pics of how it came together.

Offline tauruck

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Re: Ford "Tauruck".
« Reply #22 on: December 13, 2012, 12:37:00 AM »
I made a few parts and started putting the puzzle together.

Offline tauruck

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Re: Ford "Tauruck".
« Reply #23 on: December 13, 2012, 12:38:43 AM »
Some test fitting and then more graft but it started looking like something.

Offline tauruck

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Re: Ford "Tauruck".
« Reply #24 on: December 13, 2012, 12:43:32 AM »
I paid big bucks for the MSD distributor I have but because it was bought a while back for a different application I could not change it locally or return it to the States due to documentation etc and the fact that the importer charges us 14 bucks in local currency to the Dollar. I had to work around the problem.

Offline tauruck

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Re: Ford "Tauruck".
« Reply #25 on: December 13, 2012, 12:48:49 AM »
Maybe you guys don't want to see a hundred images of the steps it took to get the shape and fit I wanted so I jumped to where the part is now. It has openings for the 101mm throttle bodies and it's primed with spray filler, the base is recessed for mounting to the plenum and I'll be making changes to the sides once I get the fuel rails positioned.

Offline Koncretekid

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Re: Ford "Tauruck".
« Reply #26 on: December 13, 2012, 06:06:57 AM »
Maybe you guys don't want to see a hundred images of the steps it took to get the shape and fit I wanted so I jumped to where the part is now. It has openings for the 101mm throttle bodies and it's primed with spray filler, the base is recessed for mounting to the plenum and I'll be making changes to the sides once I get the fuel rails positioned.

I can't speak for others, but I'm enjoying the hell out of your detailed posts.  Food for thought for future projects!
Tom
We get too soon oldt, and too late schmart!
Life's uncertain - eat dessert first!

Offline tauruck

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Re: Ford "Tauruck".
« Reply #27 on: December 13, 2012, 09:14:45 AM »
Thanks man. It's appreciated when a fellow biker enjoys the posts.
I had a Carbon trumpet left over from an old project so I decided to incorporate it into the plenum. I had to extend it and go from round to oval so that it will match the port. I made a new mold for it and it's currently curing.

Offline tauruck

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Re: Ford "Tauruck".
« Reply #28 on: December 16, 2012, 03:39:53 AM »
The body molds are all done. I had a small celebration and yesterday I cut the original body away from the chassis. Luckily the Plasma cutter lasted the distance and the good news is that a scrap dealer is going to come by on Tuesday to remove the body and I'll get a few hundred bucks out of the deal.

Offline tauruck

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Re: Ford "Tauruck".
« Reply #29 on: December 16, 2012, 10:10:38 PM »
I seperated the plug and chassis. My plasma cutter broke again for the fifth time. I never have trouble with my equipment but this tool is now classified as junk. It always breaks on a weekend. My supplier who is also a friend will replace it with another used one but the manufacturers in Italy are not big on backup and we can't even get them to respond to email. It sucks. I have the chassis on the jig table but I'm not happy with some of the tubing and replacing is in order. This chassis was built in 2002 and the material chosen at the time is not up to scratch. I'll have to hold off attaching the front and rear clips until the frame rails have been replaced. I tacked on a few plates just to make sure the block stays where it needs to be before cutting away the original section of the chassis. Two pics of the chassis.