Ohio mile updates- September

[Glen]

Looking at the pictures it shows only one rear wheel driving, however the trailing rear wheel has a sprocket on it. Is there a option to connect the 2nd wheel via a jack shaft  and chain  or other means to drive it? 

[WOODY@DDLLC]

Captthundarr & Glenn, the liner is not mine but I may be doing some work for Gary Silvis, the owner. No plans to drive the trailing wheel at this point - just there to meet the four wheel requirement. I told him to put a lift on like the cement trucks and run 3-wheel too! 
This was Gary's first run ever with the car. Of course it wouldn't start when he arrived! But other racers gave a hand and he got his rookie pass in on Saturday. He loaned his fire suit pants to the Hinson Vette boys so his pants have been 244+ already! 

[LittleLiner]

. . . . . No plans to drive the trailing wheel at this point - just there to meet the four wheel requirement. . . . .

hummmm . . .  I think the definition of an "automobile" in the rule book not only stipulates at least four wheels but also includes words like "The automobile must be propelled by at least two (2) wheels."   

Are streamliners exempt from that part of the automobile definition?   

[Peter Jack]

Very nice set of pictures Woody! 

Pete

[A2WindTunnel]

Charles:

You know the first 500 or so horsepower are cheap compared to that last 50 to 75 HP. Look at the driveline to free up some power. Lightweight oils, dry sump rear end, fluid hubs, scuffing brakes. If you don't switch to a dry sump a vacume pump make help free up some power. We are going to dyno my motor as a baseline and then bolt on a vacume pump to document any improvement in HP. I will let you know. Should be in a week or so.

BR

You are right BR, when you approach the terminal velocity of your vehicle, and pushing the upper end of your engine it is more cost effective to gain the HP through drag reduction. Point in case, the '71 Dodge Daytona (of Gary & Pam) reduced drag by 96HP in a 2 hour wind tunnel session ($920 or $9.5/HP).  How much would 96HP cost from your engine builder ($$/HP)? The next maxton event they went from 181mph to 190mph. And also went from a major aero lift situation on the front that was "very difficult to drive" to a neutral balance front and rear where Gary and pam say they can now drive one hand on wheel and one on chute lever.

[38flattie]

Charles:

You know the first 500 or so horsepower are cheap compared to that last 50 to 75 HP. Look at the driveline to free up some power. Lightweight oils, dry sump rear end, fluid hubs, scuffing brakes. If you don't switch to a dry sump a vacume pump make help free up some power. We are going to dyno my motor as a baseline and then bolt on a vacume pump to document any improvement in HP. I will let you know. Should be in a week or so.

BR

You are right BR, when you approach the terminal velocity of your vehicle, and pushing the upper end of your engine it is more cost effective to gain the HP through drag reduction. Point in case, the '71 Dodge Daytona (of Gary & Pam) reduced drag by 96HP in a 2 hour wind tunnel session ($920 or $9.5/HP).  How much would 96HP cost from your engine builder ($$/HP)? The next maxton event they went from 181mph to 190mph. And also went from a major aero lift situation on the front that was "very difficult to drive" to a neutral balance front and rear where Gary and pam say they can now drive one hand on wheel and one on chute lever.

I agree that the wind tunnel would be a great tool to use, if one understands all the aero factors involved.

I want to get my car in the tunnel after our aero mods are done, but I'm hesitant- if I don't know exactly what I'm looking at/for, how am I really going to benefit?

Suggestions?

[A2WindTunnel]

Charles:

You know the first 500 or so horsepower are cheap compared to that last 50 to 75 HP. Look at the driveline to free up some power. Lightweight oils, dry sump rear end, fluid hubs, scuffing brakes. If you don't switch to a dry sump a vacume pump make help free up some power. We are going to dyno my motor as a baseline and then bolt on a vacume pump to document any improvement in HP. I will let you know. Should be in a week or so.

BR

You are right BR, when you approach the terminal velocity of your vehicle, and pushing the upper end of your engine it is more cost effective to gain the HP through drag reduction. Point in case, the '71 Dodge Daytona (of Gary & Pam) reduced drag by 96HP in a 2 hour wind tunnel session ($920 or $9.5/HP).  How much would 96HP cost from your engine builder ($$/HP)? The next maxton event they went from 181mph to 190mph. And also went from a major aero lift situation on the front that was "very difficult to drive" to a neutral balance front and rear where Gary and pam say they can now drive one hand on wheel and one on chute lever.


I agree that the wind tunnel would be a great tool to use, if one understands all the aero factors involved.

I want to get my car in the tunnel after our aero mods are done, but I'm hesitant- if I don't know exactly what I'm looking at/for, how am I really going to benefit?

Suggestions?

The majority of people that come in A2 are first time users so we understand the level of help that we need to provide to make them aware of what they are looking at, how to understand the data, and what changes are going to benefit their type of racing.  We do not develop your car for you, but we can help you get prepared with a good test plan, by phone and email to make sure you are ready when you get here.  We use a spread sheet that calculates the coefficient data into lbs and HP at a given speed so it is easily understandable since we can all relate to that information.

Keep in mind, when you say you want to get it in a tunnel after aero mods are done. What are you going to compare it to that will let you know if the mod’s made it better?  You’re better off testing some concepts of your modifications before you build them into final pieces.  If you have a finished car to bring to the wind tunnel, its hard to go back and cut on it to apply new things you learned.  But, if you come in and baseline the car as you have run it at the track, and then develop/track your changes you can eliminate build time since you won’t have to go back twice to modify the modifications. Plus, you now have a baseline as a comparison to know how the modifications will help or hurt the performance.  This is important to understand handling issues as well as drag reduction.  I am available to chat about any questions by phone or email.

Dave
dave@aerodynwindtunnel.com
704.235.6054   

[38flattie]

Dave, Thanks for the reply!

Testing the old design against the new design would be nice, but money and time prohibit it.

What I'm really interested in, after we make the aero changes-narrower front end, hood scoop, covered front tires, etc., is getting the new design as 'slick' as we possibly can.

1st pic is how we ran this year, 2nd is what we will do to the car this winter.

[Captthundarr]

Flattie, it is a shame you can't get wind tunnel time before the mods. I think you would be amazed at how much you will probibly pick up with the changes planned. I know I gave you a little grief before (just funnin) but your areo improvements should split the wind nicely.
Frank.

[38flattie]

Flattie, it is a shame you can't get wind tunnel time before the mods. I think you would be amazed at how much you will probibly pick up with the changes planned. I know I gave you a little grief before (just funnin) but your areo improvements should split the wind nicely.
Frank.

No worries Frank- if a guy is going to post an aberration like that, he better plan on some comments! Lol. Besides, 24+ years as 'oil field trash' has given me pretty thick skin!

I agree that the improvements would be nice to document, but I'm resigned to the fact that we will just have to do the best with what we'll have. Once the mods are done, we'll get it in the tunnel, and see how slick we can get it.

I think the aero will be as important, if not more important, in our 200 mph goal, than the HP. We know we can make HP!