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Author Topic: 1legs 1993 Chevy C/MP or C/PP build.  (Read 470 times)
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1leg
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« on: May 28, 2012, 11:11:28 PM »

Decided I would start a build diary for you guys to help me with my build. I’ll start with why build a truck. This truck belonged to my dad that passed away in February 2011. He was very proud of this truck and everyone identified him with this truck. It’s kind of a long story so no need to tell you everything just that the truck will always be with me. I have no need for another 4wd truck and it needs a lot of work to make it a dependable daily driver. My dad was a hot rodder all his life and would be very pleased with his truck land speed racing.
About me:
I have been going to El Mirage off an on for over 20 years as a spectator. Been drag racing for 20 plus years, stopped about 4 years ago and sold everything. I have some welding and metal fabrication skills. I love the desert and camping. My Nephew Ben (16) is turning into a car nut like his uncle and his grandpas. I hope this build will give him the experience and inspiration for him to continue.
The Goal:
Build a safe, reliable and somewhat inexpensive Modified or Production Pick-up to race at El Mirage (Bonneville if funds allow) that family and friend can enjoy going racing with. I want to build the truck inexpensively but spend the money needed on quality safety equipment. I want to go overboard on the safety stuff because I hope my nephew will get the chance to drive the truck in the future.
The Plan:
What class, C/MP or C/PP
I need to decide if I want to keep the 4wd in the truck. The modified class record is 156 the production record is 162. I really don’t see me going after a record for a while. Going 2wd would be cheaper in the long run I think? I don’t have money for a quick change, blower or engine change. I can take all the 4wd stuff out now and install it later if I think it will help performance in the future. Any advice?

I have no expectation on when this will be completed and ready for El Mirage 1 year 2 years maybe. Work will begin in the next few weeks
Picture of the truck after getting it home
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1leg
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« Reply #1 on: May 28, 2012, 11:14:06 PM »

Buy a good welder; I’m leaning toward a Miller MIG that runs on 220v house dryer outlet. I want to do all the work on this build myself.

Build a cage that exceeds safety standards, I have a little experience with this and I also have friends that have experience with drag race chassis building. I will need a lot of help from you guys on making sure this is built right for dry lake racing. Plan to use 1 ¾” .134 wall DOM. Not sure if I will build from scratch or buy a cage kit as a starting off point. If I build from scratch I will need a cheap tube bender or borrow one.

Suspension, I will first lower the truck as low as I can and still have a front end that can be aligned. I might need to make some new front control arms. For the rear I already have a locker in the rear with 3.42 gears.  I would like to add a track location bar and a 4 link to the rear in the future. I will also go thru and replace all rusted hardware, remove the antilock and power brakes and do a complete brake job. 

Engine and transmission will be simple. I have two small blocks, the stock one that’s in the truck and one that came out of my 3/4ton suburban. So I will need some good heads, my friend has some old ported fuelie heads that might get me started. Headers and Holley carb will top off the engine. If I can make 400 hp I’ll be happy at first. I’m really not sure what transmission to run. It needs to be an automatic because I can’t use a clutch (missing left leg). I have a 700r4 that would need a complete rebuild and converter. I looked into the parts to rebuild it will cost around $600. The advantage over a th350 or th400 is the lower first gear and lock-up converter. I’m kind of leaning toward a th350 without the converter only because I think it is the cheapest outfit and it should work well for El Mirage. I plan to learn how to do the transmissions myself then teach my nephew.

Wheels and tires: The current record at Elmo is 156/162 so a Z rated tire should work fine. I found some Z rated tires that should work on my stock 16” wheels however I’m not sure my stock wheel are legal. They are aluminum but uses acorn style lug nuts. I will try and find some steel spare tire wheels. I will need some guidance from you guys on this. Plus the steel wheels will let me run disk wheel covers.
Body will remain stock and I might even leave the paint for now it’s not a bad looking truck


« Last Edit: May 28, 2012, 11:18:10 PM by 1leg » Logged
SPARKY
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« Reply #2 on: May 29, 2012, 08:22:50 AM »

Start with some Vortec heads they are the best low buck--bang for the buck
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SteveM
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« Reply #3 on: May 29, 2012, 08:45:17 AM »

Definitely get a 220V welder, but set it up on a dedicated 50A welder circuit.  If I'm not mistaken, most dryers are 30A circuits.  Do it right with the 50A circuit and outlet.  You will be happy and safe in the long run.

Steve M.
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Captthundarr
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« Reply #4 on: May 29, 2012, 11:15:09 AM »

Definitely get a 220V welder, but set it up on a dedicated 50A welder circuit.  If I'm not mistaken, most dryers are 30A circuits.  Do it right with the 50A circuit and outlet.  You will be happy and safe in the long run.

Steve M.

Also leave yourself plenty of slack for the power cord. If you think 15' is, add 10' or more. You will be glad you did. grin
« Last Edit: May 29, 2012, 11:19:49 AM by Captthundarr » Logged

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1leg
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« Reply #5 on: May 29, 2012, 01:57:26 PM »

Thanks for the info on the welder, ill check on the 30 vs 50 amp. I'm currently renting this place so I'm not sure ill be able to change it if I had to.

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