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Author Topic: Want to build a AA motor  (Read 3807 times)
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Hooley
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« on: May 19, 2012, 12:08:33 PM »

I am thinking about building a AA  Blown motor for the 974 Studebaker Comp Coupe.  What are the best combos to use for a big block Chevy?  Is there a Chevy block that will big cubes?

I feel sure that an after market block will be in order to make 500 to 600 cubic in.  I feel that one combo works better than others. Have you had good or bad results with different combos? 

  Help me with what works.
  Hooley
 
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Freud
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« Reply #1 on: May 19, 2012, 12:55:23 PM »

Ask Terry Nish about big cube Chevies.

He has just thrown his out and went to a Hemi.

FREUD
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« Reply #2 on: May 19, 2012, 01:20:13 PM »

You might want to talk to the folks that run the Spirit of Rett streamliner, Reher-Morrison built them a pretty stout big block chevy for their world record run.

http://www.redlineoil.com/news_article.aspx?id=33

Larry
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Hooley
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« Reply #3 on: May 19, 2012, 01:53:40 PM »

Thanks Freud,  I know a hemi would be the way to go but  I can't see one in my future.  I guess it will be a BBC.

Hotrod, This is going to be a project that I will only be able to do myself. No builder involved. There will be machine work though.

         

            Thank You,
           Hooley
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fastman614
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« Reply #4 on: May 19, 2012, 01:58:45 PM »

I will ALL depend on exactly how big of a "AA" motor you want to build. Back in the day (early 70s) when Jim Bucher (rest his soul) was running top fuel with a Chevy, it was, as I recall that Jim had told me, a truck block with a stroked crank, a small overbore and was about 489 c.i.d. (a 4.375" stroke and a.030" overbore will give you 503 c.i.d) It was his claim that the truck block with a bottom end girdle of (to me) an unknown design, was every bit as strong as the Chrysler hemi "fuel" block of the day. Of course, Donovan and K-B were making aftermarket aluminum (early and late, respectively,) hemi blocks by this time....

Then came the Rodeck block - it was apparently, more than strong enough but it was a dry block which may not be the best choice for Bonneville. At almost that time, Arias had brought out hemi heads for big block Chevys - they began to be used a lot in marine racing and Arias, along with his cohorts, began running one at Bonneville. Some years later, Arias also brought out a BBC design engine block himself with a very much raised camshaft centerline (which can be built big). Nick Arias (either one - or both) may also be a person to talk to. Of course, there is Dart and Merlin who very have good products as well and the prices from either company are what I would call relatively reasonable. They can also be talked to!
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fastman614
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« Reply #5 on: May 19, 2012, 02:28:49 PM »

Were you planning on running gas or alcohol and/or nitro? It will make a difference in what you will build ....

I should also say that, with modern manufacturing techniques and newer alloys available, the Dart or Merlin block is probably a far better choice than sourcing out a used tall deck 427 truck block. The truck block would, after initial $$$ outlay for what seems to be an ever rarer species, where a good one could cost you several hundred dollars, will also require a pretty hefty amount of professional work to be done to it that will cost you more than $1000 on top of that (in my estimation, anyway). A Dart or Merlin block at (perhaps) a lot less than $3000 will have the work all done.

With a 4.5" bore block, you can get 509 c.i.d with a stock 454 stroke (4.000").... or with a relatively common (hence, reasonably priced - used) 4.25" stroke crank, you'd get 541 c.i.d

The extra several hundred dollars cash outlay for a new block will give you something that you can, with reasonable confidence, "lean on a bit harder", should give you good service for many years and, if, in the future, you ever decide to sell the engine, will give you a bit of extra cash back.

With a blown engine, there is a point where big becomes a "zero sum game" as the strength of the combination will ultimately become the limiting factor on how much power can be safely (read this to mean engine longevity) produced. Extra blower boost will create as much horsepower in a 509 c.i.d engine as lower boost in a much bigger sized engine - and - the "smaller" sized engine will, in all likelihood, cost less $$$ to build.

Good luck and hope to see you at the great white dyno in Utah!
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Bob Drury
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« Reply #6 on: May 19, 2012, 03:14:53 PM »

  Hooley, the tall deck big block (truck engines) are .400 higher deck at 10.200 vs 9.800 for a standard GM block and can be bored .130 which should give you around 525 cu in. with a 4 1/4" stroke which is about as big as I would want to go for a 5 mile engine with a huffer on it.
  If you can afford it, buy a Dart "Big M" block with billet mains.  They are about $2500 or less on Ebay if you are the trusting sort.
  I run a Callies forged crank in my 496" which is about $1500. give or take.
  You can buy Carrillo rods for two grand, Eagle H beams for $600, or Billet alluminum rods for $1000.
  For heads you could go with the Dart or Brodex cast heads (at least 340 cfm) for less than $2,000 complete or Dart Big Chiefs for $6,000.
  Throw in $500 for cam and lifters, $600 for a blower manifold (has to be for a tall deck), $2500 for a good used 10:71 blower, another thousand for a front drive magneto, $500 to a thousand for a Mallory Mag V or MSD 20, six hundred for a dry sump pan, a thousand for a dry sump oil pump, $500 for a Milodon gear drive, and  don't forget the blower drive, injector hat, barrel valve and fuel pump.  
  Oh, and about two grand worth of pistons to learn the combo................
                                                           DO IT !!!!!!!!              Bob
                                                    cheers cheers cheers
« Last Edit: May 19, 2012, 03:23:53 PM by Bob Drury » Logged

Bob Drury
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« Reply #7 on: May 19, 2012, 03:49:58 PM »

Between the builders on this forum and this guy you should be able to get there Hooley!  cheers

http://www.cartechbooks.com or www.amazon.com

This book is more bucks but may be something to consider: http://www.rehermorrison.com/rmEngineBook.htm

You doing the Ohio Mile again? You need to increase your exit speed a little!!  shocked grin


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« Reply #8 on: May 19, 2012, 06:01:01 PM »

What about starting with one of the 572 inch Chevy crate motors?
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Hooley
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« Reply #9 on: May 19, 2012, 08:02:31 PM »

fastman,
               we will be running on gas.  We have a tall deck on hand. It needs a sleeve and alinged bored.  Too much in $$ it before getting started.  The plan right now is with a Dart BIG M block for a foundation.   Your line of thought makes cents.

 Bob, We have a 496 in our drag car. It has the usual stuff in it. It was a rotating assmb . It is injected Alky.   It makes great power .
Your AA combo could be done and it would make the power needed.  Would you put hard block in and better main caps?

            See you speed week.

 Woody,  Thanks for the links. My buddy has the Reher Morrison book. I need to borrow it.
 We're thinking about going to  the July Meet.  I have already changed the rear gear for more MPH. May be close to that fine line where the car needs pushed off.  Woody, I came home pumped up for more and a reason to go back to Speed Week. 

Steve, I haven't checked into a crate motor. Not sure if it has the stuff that will take a blower.

            Your Friend,
           Hooley
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« Reply #10 on: May 19, 2012, 08:13:28 PM »

Big block ford. More over the counter choices for small to big cubic inch (460-600+) in the same block. JM2cents
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« Reply #11 on: May 19, 2012, 09:59:31 PM »

Here you go Hooley, this would be a great start.

Tom G.

http://www.racingjunk.com/Drag-Racing/2572811/Blown-705-C-I-Big-Block-Chev.html
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In 1977 Greg Temple started driving "Got'Cha" and entered the El Mirage Dirty 2 club in 1979 @ 201.97. Greg went on to set two records at Bonneville, one in 1981 at 241.848, then in 1991 he set another record at 262.230

Bill and Greg were the first father and son to enter the El Mirage Dirty 2 club. They broke the D/BFR at Bonneville in 1981 @ 241 with top speed of 249. This record still stands today. In 1991 they set the A/BFR @ 262 which was later broke by Duane McKinney.
Bob Drury
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« Reply #12 on: May 19, 2012, 10:45:04 PM »

  Hooley, I concreted my Big M up to the soft plugs.
  With the boost you will probably run, I think the Billet Main Caps are not a bad idea.  If someone makes a girdle, that would even be better.
  Remember the bigger the blower the slower you can turn it for the same amount of boost which equates to less heat and more horsepower, or you could run a 8:71 with a intercooler and crank her up.
  I don't think anyone makes a intercooler for anything bigger than a 8:71.
  I sold a brand new intercooler and a Mert Littlefield dual strip 8:71 to Skip Pipes a couple of years back and he has or had them for sale.  You might p.m. him if you are interested.         Bob
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Bob Drury
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« Reply #13 on: May 19, 2012, 10:51:12 PM »

Buy the best engine block you can.  It is the foundation for everything added.

Also , twin turbos..  grin
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« Reply #14 on: May 19, 2012, 11:51:24 PM »

Hooley, ryan that runs the HAMB has your hookup. Ask him. See you and Kimbrough on the salt this year. Been a long time.
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