Haybusa fairing q's

[Vishnuatepork]

My bike, shes alive!!!!!!!!

I go to pick her up mid May.

enter stage 2  of project 150mph; streamlining

So I plan to add a Hyabusa fairing to it. I want it to be street legal, so it will be with all the signals and headlight.

I have the fairing stay bracket, and head light.  I plan on buying a Non oem fairing kit form ebay. I have contacted a seller and he is willing to sell me only the parts I need. I'll be using a Gen 1 fairing, all things being equal the parts are cheaper, I can pay for half of the ancillary stuff just with that decision alone versus using the Gen 2.

My questions for those riding them; (keep in mind my bike is a Suzxuki VX800, it is quite a bit narrower and i do plan on adding various mounts, but some things wont be as obvious before the fabrication begins...like the following)

It appears the ram air intake tube(s) help proved a certain amount of lateral support. In your opinion could the fairing be set up with out those?  I would like to block off those holes completely, unless some one can come up with a benefit of keeping them open.

As the engine is a "half- a`busa" (ok a bit more), like I said its an 800cc Vtwin. I want to block off the side cut outs. Again, any reason why I should keep them open.  My thoughts are, I am going to have to  bring in the sides a bit anyways, and I dont think itll hurt the aerodynamics to close them up.  I am afraid of there being too much space (which can be a good thing as i can get down into the space and get out of the wind.  I am of small stature, 5'9" and 140#, so I should be able to hide behind the fairing pretty easily).

All the little bits that go between the fairing and the frame, that create the "dash" area. do they add any stability, and should I forego them, or try and incorporate them?

Lastly;
the chin spoiler, how many parts make that up?

Cheers
Alan

[maj]

Alan for all the features your deleting you may be better to get a turbo race fairing set without the ram air or side cutouts and fit a busa headlight or an aftermarket light to it

You can do without the support of the ram air tubes and dash surrounds  at 150 mph

[Vishnuatepork]

Maj,

I had considered that, but its comes down to price.  The Airtech stuff is twice the price of what the taiwanese plastics will cost, and shipping would be about 50% of the cost.  The price of the taiwanese also drops as I remove pieces of the whole kit of plastics, which is why I ask if the ram air ducts add stability, if not they are out.

Cheers
Alan

[wobblywalrus]

An advantage of the Airtech products is they it is easier to modify and refinish fiberglass than plastic.  The Airtech aerodynamics are often better, too.  Cleaner shapes.

[V8Pinto]

The dash frame is what provides most of the support for the nose.  The air tubes do not locate the nose.  I don't have my Gen I apart right now but I'm looking at the Gen II nose (don't tell my wife it's in the living room) and It looks like the mirror mounts and the side fairing bolts provide most of the holding in addition to a couple locating dowels that slide into the dash area.  The only solid frame mounts are the mirror mounts.  The rest bolts to the side fairing which in turn bolt to the frame of the bike.  If you are going to use the Busa bodywork, I would use the nose, dash frame, side fairings, and radiator area piece as a unit.  It's an integral unit once it's all bolted together and quite strong.  It's also very aero, worth 15mph over an unfaired Busa.

For a fabricated app, I would definitely go with the Gen I over the Gen II.  The Gen II has very few actual mounting bolts.  The whole thing pops together like a Revell model. 

Regarding the side vents, I wouldn't focus on them first.  You can always duct tape over them and see if it makes you faster.  First, I would focus on eliminating air coming into the engine area.  Close up the Busa radiator area/oil cooler area.  This will keep air out of the engine area where it sees a lot of resistance to flow. 

If you are not going to use the snorkels, this is an area where you can optimize.  The snorkel/turn signal area on the Gen I is very dirty - aero wise.  A few beers, an exacto knife, and some duct tape and you can really make it slick. 

Kent makes some super duper stuff and it would be worth talking to him to see what he's got.  Gen I plastics can probably be had pretty cheap and you can get them even cheaper if you don't mind doing some body/paint work on cracked fairings.  Two-part epoxy works great, is strong, and can be sanded and painted. 

[V8Pinto]

The radiator area on the Gen I just has one piece of plastic in the chin area, and then a couple side pieces, and the roof section.  It all fits together to form a sort of tunnel. 

[kiwi]

Is a Busa fairing even the right thing to use as a starting point? I would think it is much too wide for a V twin, and whatever you get it definitely needs to be in fibreglass so that it can be easily modified.