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Author Topic: gm 7.5 rearend for g / str  (Read 4962 times)
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Kiwi Paul
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« Reply #15 on: April 17, 2012, 12:12:31 AM »

Mitchell--When we ran our Quad 4 powered Comp Coupe a number of years ago, our combo was worth about 260-270 hp on alchohol. We started with a 5speed 240z trans, never could pull 5th gear, even with the 3.70 rear gear we had. Switched to a Muncie 4 speed. That worked pretty well--got us a 166mph record. By the way, we used a Monza Rear end with 8inch Ford Axles and Axle Ends....That Monza unit is sort of a 7.5GM unit....doesn`t take much horsepower to drive it either.
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mitchell968
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« Reply #16 on: April 17, 2012, 12:51:49 AM »

 good stuff , thanks paul.  i have emails sent to mr eyres and poly form on the 29 body measurements and legality of poly forms pieces, and to several engine builders to see what we can do with some of the  4 cyls.
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Dr Goggles
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« Reply #17 on: April 17, 2012, 01:20:36 AM »

Go the Muncie, easy to shorten them, the 10 bolt is a good choice because the pinion is close to the centre of the crown wheel making them v efficient like the Monza.

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Few understand what I'm trying to do but they vastly outnumber those who understand why...................

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Current Australian E/GL record holder at 215.041mph
Stainless1
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« Reply #18 on: April 17, 2012, 08:21:23 AM »

Something is not calculating that is for sure, here is my old setup. My STR I have for sale in the Classifieds, with a 355 Chevy that had a 3/4 hydraulic race cam, 600 cfm Holley, early Chevy FI heads, weighted 2500 lbs., Quick change Rear end, Automatic Trans, and never ran over 5700 RPM ran a best of 163 mph, at El Mirage. If the motor I had in the car put out 1 HP per CU, I would be amazed. Body is a 29 Ford Roadster.

Hope this helps.

Tom G.

Mitchell.... are you stuck on building this thing from scratch?  reread this post if you are open to making an existing car work for you.  It may need a few updates for head restraint, and a little work to get a 2 liter shoehorned in where a V8 lived...  rolleyes but as was mentioned to another on the site, this car is cheap, can be made runable this year and based on the numbers easily capable of setting the record with your 300 HP 2 liter.  You will be well over $20K, maybe even $25K, getting to the point this car is if you do all your own work without hiring anything out.  Do some math and soul searching, the roadster class is one of the toughest to build to and compete in on the salt (read pass tech in impound).  Tom's car would get you there this year.
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Stainless 
 MSA Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
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 Other kids A-G record 179.172  Josh O record 182.266
 Co-owner of the Amo Steele Streamliner, #1411... still sorting
Stan Back
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« Reply #19 on: April 17, 2012, 10:23:23 AM »

Dr. Goggles --

No need to shorten the trans. in Street Roadster.  I think you tanked with that advice.

Stan
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mitchell968
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« Reply #20 on: April 17, 2012, 02:22:07 PM »

stainless , im very bent on building from the ground up , minus my vhr frame , for a million reasons. one being, im now a workin stiff , no more "fishing boat" money. low budget build. i was figuring on closer to 35 K so thanks for the encouragement. im enjoying the process , havent had much to do with any fast stuff since my boat racing days.    thank you sir.      mitchell
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kiwi belly tank
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« Reply #21 on: June 17, 2012, 02:25:10 PM »

Mitchell, if you're planning on going to a N/A 4 banger, the best place to go shopping is in the USAC midget world. Out dated spare engines (to them) are plentiful & good bang for the buck. Lots of midget action in your neck of the woods too.
  Sid.
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mitchell968
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« Reply #22 on: June 17, 2012, 09:58:05 PM »

thanks sid , i checked out the wmra site and am gonna talk to some of the folks at skagit, and the roush zetec would work fine for a licensing car. i spied it a while back. transend in auburn wa is going to build my 7.5 for a 29 when i get to that point .thanks again .    mitchell
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SPARKY
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« Reply #23 on: June 17, 2012, 10:19:29 PM »

I you want to be competetive why not 21s on the rear

17 dragsters on the front  or some more 21"
« Last Edit: June 17, 2012, 11:20:50 PM by SPARKY » Logged

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mitchell968
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« Reply #24 on: June 17, 2012, 10:22:14 PM »

21 inch tires is what im gonna run sparky , 29 is refering to the mike cook body im gonna build for. and thank you sir.   mitchell
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mitchell968
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« Reply #25 on: June 17, 2012, 10:42:14 PM »

wait a minute . mr back tells me to run 22s 0n the front , others are saying 28s on the rear, so if have 21s on the rear im gonna look my dirt bike. i need more help on this. thanks     mitchell
« Last Edit: June 17, 2012, 10:44:28 PM by mitchell968 » Logged
SPARKY
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« Reply #26 on: June 17, 2012, 11:21:39 PM »

d-r-a-g-

2.14s with 21" X 8000=234
« Last Edit: June 17, 2012, 11:30:35 PM by SPARKY » Logged

WORDS to build by!
"--virtually the entire success of a turbo/engine system lies in thermal managemant."
 Corky Bell   MAXIMUM BOOST

" I am a firm believer in the people. If given the truth, they can be depended upon to meet any national crisis. The great point is to bring them the real facts." A. Lincoln

agendadocumentary.com
Stan Back
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« Reply #27 on: June 18, 2012, 10:59:48 AM »

I think I was talking you down from something bigger with the 22s.  What's the weight rating of the 17" dragster tires, Sparky?  234 would be an impressive number for a G/StR.
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SPARKY
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« Reply #28 on: June 18, 2012, 03:17:45 PM »

Stan,  That was just to show what was possible 2.28 or 2.41 would most likely fit a G  I sure do not think a G would pull 2.14 s with out HELP  lol
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WORDS to build by!
"--virtually the entire success of a turbo/engine system lies in thermal managemant."
 Corky Bell   MAXIMUM BOOST

" I am a firm believer in the people. If given the truth, they can be depended upon to meet any national crisis. The great point is to bring them the real facts." A. Lincoln

agendadocumentary.com
mitchell968
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« Reply #29 on: June 26, 2012, 10:31:14 PM »

like HELP with a   B / and a  /  F ?   
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