Author Topic: 1926 Model T XO/VFCC  (Read 61085 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline charlie101

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 150
  • Indian 101 buff
Re: 1926 Model T XO/VFCC
« Reply #60 on: June 29, 2012, 12:13:04 PM »
I'm a hobby welder, but i found that I did the most learning by taking an expert welders advice to weld trial bits of the same material, thickness and weld in the same position and then cut the pieces up, studying the welds really thoroughly with a magnifying glass, he told me "that way you really take your time, focusing and think what's going on". That was a while ago and for stick welds, but still today and with a MIG for important welds I find myself not confident before I cut up some trial bits.

Another tip I practise several times and found really useful, was simply soldering up a model of the construction with copper wire
http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Zero-Cost-Modelling-of-SpaceFrames/A_111095/article.html
http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Chalky-Part-5/A_111100/article.html
http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_111161/article.html
First impression it looks somewhat childish and simple but really gives a good basic perception of the construction weakness.
« Last Edit: June 29, 2012, 01:01:50 PM by charlie101 »

Offline swackerle

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 75
Re: 1926 Model T XO/VFCC
« Reply #61 on: July 05, 2012, 05:19:56 AM »
Thanks everyone!  My welds have cleaned up dramatically and they are looking quite professional (if I do say so myself!)  I got a lot of welds to redo, but it'll be safer and that's what matters.

Thanks,
Sam

Offline manta22

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4137
  • What, me worry?
Re: 1926 Model T XO/VFCC
« Reply #62 on: July 05, 2012, 06:26:12 PM »
I'm a hobby welder, but i found that I did the most learning by taking an expert welders advice to weld trial bits of the same material, thickness and weld in the same position and then cut the pieces up, studying the welds really thoroughly with a magnifying glass, he told me "that way you really take your time, focusing and think what's going on". That was a while ago and for stick welds, but still today and with a MIG for important welds I find myself not confident before I cut up some trial bits.

Another tip I practise several times and found really useful, was simply soldering up a model of the construction with copper wire
http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Zero-Cost-Modelling-of-SpaceFrames/A_111095/article.html
http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Chalky-Part-5/A_111100/article.html
http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_111161/article.html
First impression it looks somewhat childish and simple but really gives a good basic perception of the construction weakness.

It is simple but not childish. I've used balsa wood sticks to build a model of a chassis to envestigate its stiffness & strength. It workd too.


Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

Offline swackerle

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 75
Re: 1926 Model T XO/VFCC
« Reply #63 on: July 19, 2012, 07:23:27 PM »
Got a few cosmetic updates.  I put a roof on the Model T and I think it looks pretty good for being from an early '60s panel truck.  Also began working on the front.  I got 2 fenders from an early '50s Chevy 1 ton and turned them around.  Then I used the rest of the roof from the panel truck to finish the nose.  I know its a large frontal area but I hope it doesn't create too much surface to push through. 







I figure that most airplanes, rockets and even submarines are larger in the front, progressively getting smaller to the rear.  If they are stable up towards 300mph or even just a couple knots, then hopefully my larger to smaller design will hold steady and not create too much drag.  Special thanks to a few choice people for their aerodynamic tips. 


-Sam W

Offline bucketlist

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 59
Re: 1926 Model T XO/VFCC
« Reply #64 on: July 20, 2012, 01:49:17 AM »
...I got 2 fenders from an early '50s Chevy 1 ton and turned them around...


Interesting. I'm planning to make a plug for a fiberglass nose. Starting with a pair of reversed fenders from out behind the barn will save me a bunch of structure and contour work. And instead of so much guesswork, I'll just prop them up until they do what's needed and proceed from there.
Nostalgia isn't what it used to be.

Offline swackerle

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 75
Re: 1926 Model T XO/VFCC
« Reply #65 on: September 21, 2012, 03:02:59 PM »
It's been awhile, but that doesn't mean that I have been slacking off!  Well perhaps alittle bit of slacking off, my current plan is to skip World Finals so I can take the time to do things right.  Too much left to do to be there with any sort of shot at a record.  Onto the pics...

I got the engine in and built a header for it.


Also put a roof on the body and added an escape hatch.


The trunk is made form 1/4 inch steel and has 7, 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts holding to a rigid tube frame underneath.  This allows me to get to the rear end if needed.  I also welding a chute mount that uses a 3/4 inch grade 8 bolt to hold the tube in place.


I've also placed the fuel tank and I am using an old gas tank as a water tank.  The old gas tank fit perfectly into place and should hold enough water to keep me cool for a run or two.




I made a steering wheel which is also removable for getting in and out of the tight cockpit.  Its a smaller diameter square tube inside a larger one.  Fits very tight with no play, but still slides out easily.


Lastly, I redid the front end to have a smaller frontal area.  Instead of having the wheels inside of the front end, they are now flush with the body.  Those are wood wheels that are stand ins while the real tires are in storage until next year.


That's all for now.  I hope to have the whole thing ready for some ECTA events before taking it out to the salt, but doing this project solo (though my dad has been a great help) take just a little more time with a full time job.

Thanks,
Sam W

Offline wheelrdealer

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1255
  • D/CBGALT
    • WHEELRDEALER RACING
Re: 1926 Model T XO/VFCC
« Reply #66 on: September 21, 2012, 05:25:26 PM »
Sam:

Those darn full time jobs always get in the way of our race car fab time. Looks good.

Bill
ECTA    Maxton D/CGALT  Record Holder 167.522
ECTA    Maxton D/CBGALT Record Holder 166.715

WWW.WHEELRDEALER2100.COM

Offline jimmy six

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2785
Re: 1926 Model T XO/VFCC
« Reply #67 on: September 21, 2012, 06:01:45 PM »
I have no idea what you are planning for HP out of the GMC but since your class says FCC with 13-1 and a carburator manifold (unless you are planning some other intake) I would not worry about 4 bolt mains. I have run GMC's wide open on the salt for 37 years and only the 12 Port on 78% nitro had the 4-bolts. Most of my others had 1" straps added or nothing. The bottom end of GMC is pretty stout. If it is well balenced you should be fine.

Does the trans have an OD? That will kill more power than the Ford 9" which has many of gears available if you go to the NASCAR suppliers. The standard Ford gears are good if you carry 2 or 3 tire diameters along.

I hope your front isn't too much because the pictures make it look pretty big. An Opal GT might have gone thru the air a little better. But what do I know my GMC's push a 32 grille shell....Good Luck...Looks great.................JD 
First GMC 6 powered Fuel roadster over 200, with 2 red hats. Pit crew for Patrick Tone's Super Stock #49 Camaro

Offline Frankie7799

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 457
Re: 1926 Model T XO/VFCC
« Reply #68 on: September 21, 2012, 06:41:40 PM »
Very cool build Sam. Just found it today. Looking foward to future updates.

Offline Dr Goggles

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3120
  • The Jarman-Stewart "Spirit of Sunshine" Bellytank
    • "Australian Bellytank" , http://thespiritofsunshine.blogspot.com/
Re: 1926 Model T XO/VFCC
« Reply #69 on: September 21, 2012, 06:55:20 PM »
Lovin it Sam, you can't buy this one in a kit :cheers:

Do you know anyone with some pro camera gear, like someone who does it for a living? no complaints about your shots but it might be good to have a few big hi res shots of your build....... :wink: :-D
Few understand what I'm trying to do but they vastly outnumber those who understand why...................

http://thespiritofsunshine.blogspot.com/

Current Australian E/GL record holder at 215.041mph

THE LUCKIEST MAN IN SLOW BUSINESS.

Offline 4-barrel Mike

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3173
  • Any fool can drive a V8
Re: 1926 Model T XO/VFCC
« Reply #70 on: September 21, 2012, 07:57:16 PM »
Doc, what are you seeing? 

On screen, I'm seeing 533x400 pics (the site automagically resizes to maximum 400 pixels high).  The pics are 800x600 on photobucket.   :cheers:

Mike
Mike Kelly - PROUD owner of the V4F that powered the #1931 VGC to a 82.803 mph record in 2008!

Offline swackerle

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 75
Re: 1926 Model T XO/VFCC
« Reply #71 on: September 22, 2012, 12:28:09 AM »
Funny you should request the use of a better camera, I just traded my slightly better camera for a nitrous kit.  Though I have many friends withing my profession that have some really nice equipment if some better shots are requested. 

JD - Thanks for all the advice, you've been a HUGE help with getting the GMC beast to this point.  I will be running a 4 barrel methanol carb, with massive lift cam, ported and polished head, 2.02 intake 1.60 exhaust valves, 13 to 1 aluminum pistons, 7.5 inch steel rods and some quick math for header tube length and collector length, hopefully I can get maybe 350hp out of the old GMC.  The trans does have an over drive, but I do have a few gear sets for the 9 inch so hopefully I can keep it out of the top gear. 

I understand that the 10 bolt GM rear is very effiecient, but has anyone ran an 8.8 ford or know the difference between the two as far as drive train loss?

Offline SPARKY

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 6908
Re: 1926 Model T XO/VFCC
« Reply #72 on: September 22, 2012, 08:28:59 AM »
More efficient---not very efficient lol :-D
Miss LIBERTY,  changing T.K.I.  to noise, dust, rust, BLUE HATS & hopefully not scrap!!

"Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing."   Helen Keller

We are going to explore the racing N words NITROUS & NITRO!

Offline rgn

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 139
Re: 1926 Model T XO/VFCC
« Reply #73 on: September 22, 2012, 09:24:53 AM »
I just traded my slightly better camera for a nitrous kit. 

that made me smile.... :cheers:

Offline jimmy six

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2785
Re: 1926 Model T XO/VFCC
« Reply #74 on: September 23, 2012, 12:53:35 AM »
Swacker, you stated in the first few infos on the engine you were using GRP rods. I was a little worried because they only list aluminum/titanium on their site. Your reply to me says steel....Did they do them for you?. I've been using 2 manufacturers in the LA area but always looking for more. Just before you light it off squit in a little gasoline the first time. Timing a max of 37 works for everyone thats been running GMC's for years made the same power all the way to 42 so we just save possible problems ....Always helped me.....Looks great JD.
First GMC 6 powered Fuel roadster over 200, with 2 red hats. Pit crew for Patrick Tone's Super Stock #49 Camaro