Australian Streamliner Bike Build

[Jon]

Thanks Tom

The bars are pinned. In the pic of just the centre section you can see a 1/2 depth slot on the non pinch side of the bar hole, the bar has a dowel that slides in there to stop it turning.

I thought I would end up with flatter bars but sitting in my bike with just the two bars and a digital level on one of them I found the best range of movement was around 42 degrees, being lazy 45 was easy to make.

Because I can't move my shoulders at all the steering movement needs to be hand and wrist, being limited in the area my elbows can move meant a flatter bar had uncomfortable sideways wrist movement happening and steeper bars hard more throttle twist trying to happen with steering input.

Bars will be 1:1 ratio with the wheel.
I have a fair bit of room outside my hands on the bars at the moment, won't cut the bars until I have a made it along a course a few times.

Cheers
jon

[Koncretekid]

Jon,
When I said my bars are parallel (well, almost) I meant like this.  I agree that flat bars  would be terribly uncomfortable.
Tom

[Jon]

Thanks to Stay'te, Maj and DavieB my Underdrive made it from B&J to me for the price of a bit of excess luggage and a bottle of Jimmy.
Thanks heaps guys.

The plates I'd made even bolt up :0



Now I have it rather than a CAD model I'd scratched together I can get it and the motor situated relative to each other and stretch the frame.

Cheers
jon

[Dr Goggles]

I thought I would end up with flatter bars but sitting in my bike with just the two bars and a digital level on one of them I found the best range of movement was around 42 degrees, being lazy 45 was easy to make.

Lazy?.....hyperactive overachiever more like it........good to see you really do have a reason for leaving the 10lb club and joining the 15.

[wobblywalrus]

Stand back as far as you can, use the zoom, and enlarge the picture by cropping it on the computer.  This reduces the distortion.  I was told to do this with my frontal area shots for aero drag figuring.  It works for other things, too.   

[Jon]

Thanks guys

Think your on the wrong thread Pops.

Getting slack these days Bo, Mungaphone camera straight to Photobucket to the forum without a cable or disc/card in sight

No bike work today:

Sailing on Moreton Bay with friends

jon

[tauruck]

Getting ready to cut it in 1/2.

Squaring it up on the bench with cheapie laser crosshairs.
Going to tack a foot to the back of the main rollcage hoop and screw it to the bench.
I'll tack a light RHS frame to about the tubes in the engine bay about 100m behind where I'm going to cut it with a foot down to the bench to keep the height right.
Then cut it and spread it 500mm, probably totally replace the bottom rails and sleeve and extend the top rails.
The bottom rails will still be straight, the top rails will have a horizontal bend in them at the join, this will right next to one of the top engine mounts so that the engine becomes structural and the main rails are all effectively straight still.

Cheers
jon

Nothing wrong with cheapie laser hairs, believe me. That thing don't tell no lies brother. I couldn't do without it. Your project looks great and I'm interested in that underdrive. I'm subscribed.

[Jon]

Thanks Mike, watching your build with interest too.

Had to reclock the air port relative to the fill and drain port so thought I'd have a look inside and work out what spares I wanted to carry and so that I got a look at how it worked so I can troubleshoot it if it misbehaves on the salt.

General unit:


Clutch pack:


Sprag clutch and thrust bearing:


Very happy with the way it's built, they are proven units in drag racing with more hp and traction than I will have.

It will be easy to put a pump and cooler on if needed, should be ok though I think as it will be the first shift and then just a locked unit for the rest of the run.

Things I like other than it being simple and strong:
O ring seal between cases.
Common seal and bearing sizes.
Jacking bolt holes to split the cases that the case retaining bolts screw straight into.

Only downside which is not a reflection in the build but rather how I'm using it is that it has 8 mounting holes on each end and the 2 halves are held together with 12 bolts.
Means can only clock the air port at 3,6,9&12 o'clock.
Again definitely not a build quality issue, I was just hoping to set the air fitting at 45 from vertical.

Cheers
jon

[tauruck]

It's a really nice piece. Solid as a rock. Thanks for showing me the inards. In racing everything is a compromise but it keeps the brain working hey?. I really like the warning "no oil". I did a similar thing on my dummy Sportster motor but for different reasons. The wife didn't get it but Slinky did. Go figure.

[Jon]

Thanks Mike, I will surely screw the underdrive up if I do t write on it until its full of oil.
Emailing B&J about what lubricant, guessing ATF but don't want to put anything in until I find out what the clutch frictions are happy with.

A couple of people have asked about my chutes since your thread that Stainless responded to.
My chutes are from Bob Stroud.
Bib recommended seperate pilots to get a strong/reliable launch.
My bike is short in room like any special construction vehicle for that and a couple other reason I cut the spring for the pilot launch spring in 1/2.
I then made a tube with a notched end so I could get the spring to almost bind when loaded and still be supported when released.
As Sparky said they are fun to pack, very versatile word fun....
I've drilled a hole across the tube that take a 1/2 rod that holds the spring at fully compressed, then notched a piece if wood so I can push the spring in and pin the spring.
End view with spring set and pinned ready to pack pilot chute with loading stick:


Side view with spring relaxed:


Packed and latched with a nail:


Test fire, threw the complete pilot and tether 9m or 30':
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w278/jonra23/B27E824C-39B3-4252-8E99-707F257E0399-4099-0000048EFC66C00D_zps2b957b57.mp4
Going on advice from several successful bike liners my tilt switch is throwing both chutes.
Both chutes are in deployment bags so will not open until the main tether is at full length.

Regards
jon

[Stainless1]

Just our info Jon, we used BG Hi-Low 0-30 Synthetic in our B&J Trans.  BG had one of their engineers call and talk to Mike before that oil was selected... had 4 quarts in a tank circulating through the trans.

[Jon]

Thanks Stainless.
Did you have temperature logging?, if so did you get high temps?
What was your strategy with the two-speed, multiple shifts, big shift down early or smaller shift late.

I'm committed to a big shift early with the ratio I've chosen, just interested with others that have actually run have done.

Not sure if we can get BG lubricants here, will post up Mike's (B&J) recommendations are.

Thanks
jon

[twodear]

Test fire, threw the complete pilot and tether 9m or 30':
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w278/jonra23/B27E824C-39B3-4252-8E99-707F257E0399-4099-0000048EFC66C00D_zps2b957b57.mp4
Going on advice from several successful bike liners my tilt switch is throwing both chutes.
Both chutes are in deployment bags so will not open until the main tether is at full length.

Regards
jon

Good test for sure - nearly a surprise to anyone walking on the foot path and the cars in the street.

[Stainless1]

Jon, we ran their 4 speed, no logging but the oil was quite warm at the end of a run.  I think Mike said he preferred motor oil lube properties over auto tranny fluid... but get that from the Strausburgs. 

[Jon]

Thanks Stainless