Author Topic: Australian Streamliner Bike Build  (Read 434600 times)

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Offline Jon

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #855 on: July 30, 2013, 06:22:40 AM »
Just don't put the gearshift too far away
G

You taking it for a run Grumm? Cool.
We're about the same height (I think) main shift is on the left thumb, underdrive to direct will probably be on the right.

Dave would have a better chance
G

Only one person going to have the joys of sliding down the salt wondering what happened in this ;)
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Offline DavieB

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #856 on: August 14, 2013, 05:52:04 PM »
Just don't put the gearshift too far away
G

You taking it for a run Grumm? Cool.
We're about the same height (I think) main shift is on the left thumb, underdrive to direct will probably be on the right.

Dave would have a better chance
G

Only one person going to have the joys of sliding down the salt wondering what happened in this ;)


 :evil:

Offline Jon

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #857 on: August 14, 2013, 07:11:32 PM »
Getting ready to cut it in 1/2.

Squaring it up on the bench with cheapie laser crosshairs.
Going to tack a foot to the back of the main rollcage hoop and screw it to the bench.
I'll tack a light RHS frame to about the tubes in the engine bay about 100m behind where I'm going to cut it with a foot down to the bench to keep the height right.
Then cut it and spread it 500mm, probably totally replace the bottom rails and sleeve and extend the top rails.
The bottom rails will still be straight, the top rails will have a horizontal bend in them at the join, this will right next to one of the top engine mounts so that the engine becomes structural and the main rails are all effectively straight still.

Cheers
jon
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Offline Jon

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #858 on: August 16, 2013, 09:47:46 PM »
Picked up the Waterjet cut plates for the B&J underdrive unit's outboard bearing plates and mounting plates today.

Just need finishing machining for outboard bearings, counter boring for caphead bolts any tapping other holes.

jon

Underhouse Engineering
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Offline Freud

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #859 on: August 16, 2013, 10:56:38 PM »
Quoting Jon:

I'll tack a light RHS frame to about the tubes in the engine bay about 100m behind where I'm going to cut it with a foot down to the bench to keep the height right.

That's a long bike.

FREUD
Since '63

Offline Elmo Rodge

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #860 on: August 16, 2013, 11:39:57 PM »
Quoting Jon:

I'll tack a light RHS frame to about the tubes in the engine bay about 100m behind where I'm going to cut it with a foot down to the bench to keep the height right.

That's a long bike.

FREUD
Ain't it? By the way Jon. Those cheepie laser crosshairs is the way I built my car. After shooting optics for jig building I just kept that kind of thinking building my car. It saves investing in a perfectly flat floor. You can put the "floor" anywhere you want in space.  :wink: Wayno

Offline grumm441

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #861 on: August 17, 2013, 04:31:29 AM »
Quoting Jon:

I'll tack a light RHS frame to about the tubes in the engine bay about 100m behind where I'm going to cut it with a foot down to the bench to keep the height right.

That's a long bike.

FREUD

Must have a big Garage
G
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Offline Dr Goggles

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #862 on: August 17, 2013, 05:31:32 AM »
Quoting Jon:

I'll tack a light RHS frame to about the tubes in the engine bay about 100m behind where I'm going to cut it with a foot down to the bench to keep the height right.

That's a long bike.

FREUD

Must have a big Garage
G

I feel obliged to get involved here.

Talk about buckling, first it was six inches, then eighteen...now in an effort to conceal your weakness you've gone metric.......100m, that's putting 10llb of Subaru in a 1000lb bag, you've changed man, you've changed. :-( :-( :-( :-(
Few understand what I'm trying to do but they vastly outnumber those who understand why...................

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Offline Jon

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #863 on: August 17, 2013, 05:54:41 AM »
Must get a longer earth lead for my welder.... :0
At that rate my bracing will on the front fence a few houses over, you've seen a flaw in my cunning plan.
Might have to put a bit more thought into it ....

Cheers
jon
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Offline Jon

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #864 on: September 01, 2013, 06:22:30 AM »
Called in and saw Ross today, as usual our conversation went all over the place talking about his liner and other toys.

In among conversation was chute releases, a while ago I bought a couple of the old frame mount tenspeed pushy change levers for thumb chute releases.

I didn't finish cleaning up like I said I was going to Ross. :roll: :roll:

Made a couple of mounts for the chute release levers that double as Master Cylinder clamps:
Horizontal back view:


Top/back view:


Venhill throttle that was destined for a cafe project, ZX-14 radial master cylinders (nice and narrow on the bars), Fleabay shorty levers and Underhouse chute release, dummied up on a random clipon.

Clutch side looks same.

Cheers
jon
« Last Edit: September 01, 2013, 07:07:23 AM by Jon »
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Offline SPARKY

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #865 on: September 01, 2013, 10:49:25 AM »
Jon & DrG,  my hat is off to you two--- on your "packaging".  I have studied and restudied both your builds for inspiration  :cheers:

I quit worrying about suspension with tires when I figured out what the reaction distance would be with GM's electrionic-magnetic shocks at 300.   
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Offline Jon

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #866 on: September 02, 2013, 03:56:04 AM »
Thanks Sparky, if I'm able to give back a little help for the heaps that I've got from this site it will be good.

Seems to be plenty if successful cars without suspension but less so with bikes, wonder if it's to do with weight per wheel and bikes not having enough weight per wheel to have them flex over minor surface variations?

Same views as yesterday with switches, switches are set back on the bar to make them harder to bump and easier to work, switching horizontally for both the same reasons.




Will knock some corners off later.
All double pole switches using both contacts for a bit better reliability.
Left Upper: Single throw, Underdrive, away from hand for low, towards for direct.
Left Lower: Double throw Spring return, Main trans, away for downshift, towards for upshift.
Right Upper: Single throw, ECU/Fuel pump, away from hand for off, towards for on.
Right Lower: Double throw Spring return, Landing Gear, away for down, towards for up.

Probably just seems random but operating earthmoving equipment allways has towards for up, on or upshift and my head is used to it.

Cheers
jon
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Offline RidgeRunner

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #867 on: September 02, 2013, 10:07:35 AM »



Probably just seems random but operating earthmoving equipment allways has towards for up, on or upshift and my head is used to it.

Cheers
jon

     In my opinion that is very good reasoning.  I've always felt the sub conscious mind can save precious seconds, or fractions of, when needed as well as help keep the working environment user friendly.

Offline Jon

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #868 on: September 03, 2013, 05:42:07 AM »
A couple hours again today.
Most comfortable/best range of movement seems to be about 45 degrees downslope on the bars.
Made up a centre section for bars, same views:




Clamps the bars like normal clip-on bars, helicoiled M6 pinch bolts, nylon pivot bush, will put a grease nipple in later when I have it fitted up.


Cheers
jon
Underhouse Engineering
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Offline Koncretekid

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #869 on: September 03, 2013, 07:43:38 PM »
A couple hours again today.
Most comfortable/best range of movement seems to be about 45 degrees downslope on the bars.
Made up a centre section for bars, same views:




Clamps the bars like normal clip-on bars, helicoiled M6 pinch bolts, nylon pivot bush, will put a grease nipple in later when I have it fitted up.


Cheers
jon
Jon,
I have a few comments.  M6 pinch bolts probably OK since handles are straight - - I found that I had to pin my bars to keep them from rotating.  45 degrees may not be that comfortable depending on your riding position.  My bars are almost parallel but further arpart than yours. Will you have direct steering or use some leverage, i.e. 1 to 2 to get more turning force if needed?  Some guys are comfortable with bars that close together, but not me!  Just food for thought.
Tom
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