Australian Streamliner Bike Build

[maj]

The ratios and motor needs is where Jons and mine differ somewhat
the  750cc motor we are using is a bit peaky in its power range , currently it has run 238mph as a motorcycle but its very difficult getting off the line and into the power range , and i think i would favor the closer ratios up top , but in saying that i just put smaller cams in to try and get it easier to use
the busa has so much more torque available, that even geared very high it has less of an issue moving .

Had not thought about turning the motor , not that far anyway, had  very briefly considered turning it 90 deg

[Dr Goggles]

I have a lot if learning to do and I'm not even sure my bike and will warrant more hp yet.
Cheers
jon

I think there are a few people (Maj?) who might be wondering if the "bike and will warrant more hp"....because we're getting the feeling you're in S.F.F territory with the combo you've dialed up in the body you're building. My rice farming friend and I had a chat on the weekend about progress, and we are, to say the least, watching with interest.......

Jon, I see more ingenuity and good engineering choices in your build than I saw from most engineers during my career.  Unique vehicles and solutions make LSR cool.  It is fun to still be learning things at my age – helps to avoid an ossified brain (I hope, anyway).  I try to return the favor when I can, hopefully without being too boring.

Yep, it's right on the money, practical and clever there must be more than a few like you Larry who are building bike liners who have seen this as a revelation. All so neatly presented here too. Cool as.

[Jon]

To go the same speed in top gear I see little logic in overdriving through the joey box to then just gear down in the chain ratios.

You can get essentially identical lowest and highest overall drive ratios from either the overdrive or underdrive setup, and thus similar acceleration at low speed (without a push truck) and similar speed at the top end.  Either approach, you can juggle sprocket teeth here and there (within space limits) to get the desired overall ratios.  I should not have stipulated specific tooth counts; ratios are the important aspect.  Underdrive system advantage is less lossy at the top end, which is very significant, and also you have developed a clear route to implementation.  Overdrive system advantage is closer ratios at the top end and a bit wider at the low speed end.  I was just exploring and questioning to understand the options.

Thanks for the kind words guys.

I agree that you can get the same top and bottom ratios regardless of whether you overdrive or underdrive.

What I was trying to say was I can't see why I would overdrive the secondary only to underdrive it again it again to get the rear wheel speed back down again, I was just trying to show what I was talking about using the those numbers.

Eg: if you want a wheel speed of 4000rpm and the output shaft is 6000rpm and the main  to joey 1:1 (easy maths) as a underdrive/direct you could have 20/30 sprockets on the rear chain(1:1.5 ratio)
If you went direct overdrive the joey output shaft is now 7620 rpm so now need a 1:1.9 ratio to get the rear wheel back close to 4000 rpm so you can either make the back sprocket bigger and have 20/38 or make the front sprocket smaller 16/30.
The bigger rear sprocket increases the chain speed, the smaller front sprocket makes the chain rollers move more to get around a smaller radius.
Both those are undesirable IMHO.

If you wanted to run the back wheel faster than the existing output shaft rpm the case may be different.

Thanks
jon

[Jon]

Oh look, a castle.

[Heliophile]

Re the Laycock:
Guys, I think I had a major brain fart or senior moment or something yesterday.  I will claim I was loopy from pain meds (I am laid up with a strained back).  Anyway, last night it hit me that rotating both the engine and the Laycock 180 degrees, with the same chain drive arrangement, still spins the Laycock as overdrive in the wrong direction, if I understand the Laycock design.  Duhhh (blush).  The Laycock only works when spinning in the direction that rear drive car engines spin, right?  The possibility of rearward exhaust and not having to flip the rear wheel got me all excited and I did not think it through.

Dr. Gog, it makes me feel young again to know you are more than twice my age.  Oh, wait...maybe you are 16 and just cannot type.  In the S.S.F. acronym, I am guessing that the first letter stands for "seriously" and the last for "fast".



 

[Heliophile]

FWIW, I ran across an article on an overdrive shifting difficulty that may be of interest.
http://www.hotrod.com/newproducts/hrdp_0604_gear_vendors_overdrive/viewall.html

 

[Jon]

Thanks for that, interesting reading.

To run as an overdrive the sprag needs to work in the opposite direction, I believe Greg is looking at possibilities.

Cheers
jon

[grumm441]

Hey Greg
I didn't get a chance to talk to you at the meeting
How is your streamliner  going
Do I need to come and look at it in the next three weeks
G

[maj]

G
your welcome to come and look anytime , but its not needed yet,
not trying to be running for Lk G , may try for August , but thats even a long shot   

[Jon]

Bit confused about battery isolation.
The 2013 DLRA (2012 SCTA) rule book says:
"The disconnect switch or a positive mechanical control (cable or rod) for the switch shall be located on the front or rear of the vehicle, operable externally and be clearly marked."
This is in bold so guess its changed since I started building and buying bits, this is in the car section, the Streamliner bike section is different but I'm not game to bet they will remain that way.

Does that mean that this is longer legal;
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=270954228600
I think I know the answer already.

Does any know of a good switch that is salt resistant, isolates the battery, grounds the alternator and kills the motor that can be operated remotely from the riders compartment and from outside.
Don't want have to run the main power leads any further than necessary.
Trying to build to suit SCTA/DLRA rules and BUB/AMA, thought I had it sorted, appears I don't....

Thanks
jon

[kiwi belly tank]

You can put it where you want & then put a cable or linkage to the required location.
  Sid.

[grumm441]

It's both easy and cheap.
Our car streamliners also have to have an oil pressure activated kill switch acording to the new DLRA rulebook.
We are going to run a cole hersy continuois duty relay next to the battery with a toggle switch up the front.
that way we don't have the voltage loss involved with long battery cables.
then this is another one of those things that when I start talking about, people start looking at there feet and shuffling nervously
and looking for and escape route
probably do it for under a hundred.
G

[SPARKY]

My GV is about 4 years old, when I bought it they set it up for B'Ville.  I was told by Rick Jhonson that they did not recomend the AutoShifter at B'ville.  If I can remember correctly,  I think they enlarge a by pass and the B'ville modified unit does not have as much drag or "line pressure".  Therefore it does not shift as fast as a normal "race" or street unit.

[wobblywalrus]

There sure are a lot of weather problems there.  Hope you are OK.

[Jon]

All good thanks at my place thanks Bo, got a little breezy & wet.
Some people are doing it a bit ordinary, second time they have flooded in 3 years.