Australian Streamliner Bike Build

[grumm441]

Jon
I'm not sure you need a rule change to run up to 3 motors, it would just be an issue of what engine class it would run in
G

[Jon]

Jon
I'm not sure you need a rule change to run up to 3 motors, it would just be an issue of what engine class it would run in
G

Weirder than that, I'll tell you over a rum.
jon

[Peter Jack]

You should really include the rest of us rum drinkers!   

Pete

[rgn]

Hi Jon, out of interest, where does it say in the rules that an electric push off - starter is against the rules?  A set up as suggested would as far as I have read not contravene any?

Edit: ( Is there a limit on starter motor size?)

[SPARKY]

lets see now--do I have this right Jon---"You were doing 360---had hit the aero wall and your starter switch malfunctioned out of nowhere and you started picking up speed again, but when you popped your chute---that jolt must have helped it sort itself out?"

[Peter Jack]

RGN, as soon as the starter is used to propel the vehicle my bet is that the officials would rightly call that part of the propulsion system and if nothing else would probably cause class issues. Then again in a m/c streamliner that may not matter but I think it would. I don't think an electric motor plus an internal combustion engine fits any class.

Pete

[rgn]

lol.  Sparky, a sprag clutch like on any starter motor would prevent any forward speed beyond the limit of the starter motor gearing having any affect on the liners function.

Pete, I'm not sure if something that gets the vehicle going, but plays no part in the propulsion of the vehicle above the allowed push-out would be a problem... 

I'm just putting it out there, the rules as I see them are to be worked anyway to your advantage.  I've read about the easy-hook secondary gearbox, and thought if I was to build a liner myself electric would be far simpler.  As far as I'm aware the liner rules state you can use any motorcycle engine combination you like, and as far as I'm aware an electric motor has no measuable engine capacity... they only have an output rating.

Cheers guys...

[Jon]

Thanks guys
I think there may be an Australian built bike liner that is doing something similar, it's not me though. Dave may chime in I think it was him telling me about it if we're "Lucky" enough.

I'm going to be flat out fitting a conventional battery system in let alone one with enough storage capacity to give anything a meaningful shove.

Riblets : http://www.nasa.gov/centers/langley/news/factsheets/Riblets_prt.htm
From the year you guys came down and got the mug back off us, we didn't really want it we just wanted to Plymouth you off some :p

I'll drink to that Peter Jack
Jon

[twodear]

Thanks Jon - nice to know it wasn't my imagination after all.

Up to now, I hadn't planned on going to the lake. I'm fairly intent on putting the track bike back to street spec and make some room in the shed. It seems that I'm not as flexible as the young upstarts and am encumbered with a much more healthy concept of self preservation to be very competitive on the track. Trying to make a go with the wrong bike in the first place hasn't helped.

[wobblywalrus]

There are a lot of us here like you - refugees from other forms of racing.  A person ages and it is hard to compete.  Or, a person has the memory of too many crashes.  Here in LSR it is mainly the ability to think, imagine, design and build.  That does not diminish with age. 

[grumm441]

You don't have to come to  lake G to compete
The chances of Goggles getting me into that car are slim at best, but I'll still be there
I go to Bonneville for Speedweek as well for the free drinks

RGN, it will not fit it into any class with two engines of different types. there is no 1350Ω class at present
you could ask for a deviation, but I think the 45 days are up for this year
if you put the electric engine in an F truck and pushed it it would be legal
You could try it on the chief MC tech guy but I'm sure the way he reads the rules it would be a no

I drink rum , but not that stuff you call rum in QLD, good in the parts washer tho 


G

[Jon]

Got the bottom control arm mount gussets onto my front yoke:




The rose joints on both ends of the lower control arms will be between two plates so the bolts are in double shear.
Will leave the top plates off and the gusset not welded on the side of the tongue on the bottom plates so that I can tweak the angle of the plates so that the rose joint is mid travel at ride height.

Tossed the bits I had cut too short for the headstock rocker mount and got ones the right length tacked in:


The wheel tub is still only tacked up as it will need to come apart and out so I can fully weld the headstock area then go back, it will be welded to the cage.

Cheers
jon

[Jon]

I've been putting off the front suspension for a while, haven't been looking forward to drilling a pair of 1" holes throughout my frame rails with a pistol drill.

Time to stop procrastinating today, I was even happier when I worked out my old Metabo with clutch is too long to fit.

I'm not big on product endorsement but can definitely recommend a Ryobi ONE if your in the market for a cordless drill.


A couple of battery swaps, a few choice words and sore wrists later. (no cataracts though)

There is a solid boss going through each frame tube and fully welded, relieved on the top to get enough travel without binding.
.

There will be a top plate tied into the frame and wheeltub.

Cheers
jon

[Koncretekid]

Jon,
I had to drill 5/8" holes in my 1" frame rails and use ferrules like you have made for the lower motor mount and it's a PITA.  But it's not too difficult to start by using a small center drill first, then using a step drill. This works well if you can fit your drill within your frame rails.  I, like you, couldn't.  So as I opened up the outside with the step drill, I progressively (to try to preserve alignment) increased the twist drill size as to the same size as each step on the step drill.  When I got it big enough for a 3/8" drill, I welded a piece of drill rod onto a standard 3/8"twist drill that was long enough to go thru one side, thru the lower motor mounting lug on the base of the motor, and reach the far side to ensure alignment.  Ideally, you should try to find a right angle drill to drill from the inside.  Those big twist drills simply do not like to drill thru tubing without catching and trying to break your wrist.

Now I just noticed that you have figured out a way to do this, but I'll post this anyway for anyone else who may have to do the same.
Tom

[manta22]

Jon;

I usually use a small 1/8" drill to make a pilot hole all the way through both sides of the tubing. This way the hole centers are guaranteed to be in alignment. The trick is to make sure you are absolutely square with the tubing so the hole axis is not crooked. I made up a fixture that is a block of steel with a 90 degree groove down one side and it has a few small holes bored in the exact center and perpendicular to the groove. I put in a 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4" holes to act as pilot holes for drilling tubing. As you did, I use a step drill (available from Harbor Freight on sale for $10 for a 3- piece set) to enlarge the holes. An angle drill is useful for getting to the inside where space is limited. Your solution was clever.

The only way I know of drilling a round hole in thin sheet metal is to use a step drill, a counterbore, or a "fish-point" drill. Large holes can be cut with a hole saw but the edges are ragged. They can be cleaned up, of course, but it takes more time. I've never had success with trepanning since I don't have a mill. BTW, the very largest step drill is almost worthless-- its edges are not cut properly so it doesn't cut; it sort of pushes its way through the metal.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ