Author Topic: Australian Streamliner Bike Build  (Read 434576 times)

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Offline Jon

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #345 on: July 26, 2012, 12:17:38 AM »
The rules state;

"All electric fuel pumps shall have an inertial switch in the circuit to disable the pump operation."

Does my tilt switch that I have for my chutes cover this if wired in or do i need a seperate inertial switch.

Just been working on my wiring diagram in my spare time.

thanks
jon
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Offline maguromic

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #346 on: July 26, 2012, 12:53:10 AM »
Jon, I would just wire a Ford inertia switch with close access for resting it in case it gets bumped on your push offs (its happen before and Murphy has a big book of laws on the salt).  They only cost about $5 at the local pick -n pull and you probably have enough of them in the salvage yards there as well. Tony
“If you haven’t seen the future, you are not going fast enough”

Offline Jon

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #347 on: July 26, 2012, 02:26:22 AM »
Thanks Tony

I have this as a tilt switch for my chutes;http://hmbe.com.au/assets/products/206/original/2-Axis%20Tilt%20Switch.pdf

I was going to wire it to not only pull my chutes but to cut my fuel pump and ignition also.

I think it complies in spirit with the rules but it isn't an "inertia" switch.

I dont want to have to hack into my loom after its done and sealed up.



Grumm, can you give me a ruling for DLRA please?

thanks
jon
Underhouse Engineering
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Offline grumm441

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #348 on: July 26, 2012, 07:27:13 AM »
Hi Jon
Same as the SCTA
The tilt switch is for the parachutes and the inertia switch is for the fuel pump
you will need both
so 7.H.8 for the inertia and 7.H.13 for the parachute
however, I would also look at 7.H.20 the battery cutoff switch, and also at 3.K for the placement of the battery cutoff
Current model Ford Falcons ( the Australian car) have inertia switches in the left kick panel
or you can buy them from Summit Racing


this is usually the point where I start gibbering on about the use of Cole Hersey continuous duty relays to prevent voltage drop and for the ease of setting up multiple battery cutoff switches

The other Really important thing to look at , if you are running SCTA or DLRA is 
http://www.scta-bni.org/pdf/2012%20Motorcycle%20Inspection%20Form.pdf
Because, this is what will bring you undone at the lake

G
Chief Motorcycle Steward Dry Lakes Racers Australia Inc
Spirit of Sunshine Bellytank Lakester
https://www.dlra.org.au/rulebook.htm

Offline Jon

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #349 on: July 26, 2012, 01:31:03 PM »
Thanks Grumm and Tony

I'll go to the wreckers and grab a couple, guessing most people are using the Ford ones, may as well use the same so can share spares.

I've got the inspection checklist in my toolbox, also got a custom combined one of SCTA/BUB.
Likely never get there but no harm in building to suit.

I've got the Cole Hersey solenoids from when we talked before.

Dan's paintjob;



Think this is what I'll run, thanks Dan.

Cheers
jon
Underhouse Engineering
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Offline WOODY@DDLLC

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #350 on: July 26, 2012, 02:44:48 PM »
Jon, maybe these guys will sponsor you for air brakes! No chutes needed!  :-D

I'm getting some more homework ready for you!  :cry:

For all you lurkers out there, we are just prepping the CAD model for the first CFD pass. Once we get that done we refine the setup based on what we see, put in some more digital air, then blow it harder and at some angles to see what the responses are. So stay tuned! :cheers:
All models are wrong, but some are useful! G.E. Box (1967) www.designdreams.biz

Offline grumm441

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #351 on: July 26, 2012, 07:47:59 PM »
Jon
If you get one from the wreckers, get the plug as well
G
Chief Motorcycle Steward Dry Lakes Racers Australia Inc
Spirit of Sunshine Bellytank Lakester
https://www.dlra.org.au/rulebook.htm

Offline Jon

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #352 on: July 26, 2012, 08:31:12 PM »
Goggles & Grumm;
Do the one you guys and most people run look the same as Tony posted?

Do you remember what the plug looked like so I get the same.
I will get a couple so I have a spare but if everyone is using the same I may as well get the same.

Thanks
jon
Underhouse Engineering
Luck = Opportunity + Preparation^3

Offline Elmo Rodge

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #353 on: July 26, 2012, 08:59:17 PM »
The plug looks like the plug that is plugged into the one you get from the wrecker.  :-D Wayno

Offline kiwi belly tank

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #354 on: July 26, 2012, 09:06:18 PM »
Wayno  :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

Offline maguromic

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #355 on: July 26, 2012, 10:08:50 PM »
Jon, The Ford unit uses a 3-pin Pico connector part # 5756PT.  Tony
“If you haven’t seen the future, you are not going fast enough”

Offline Jon

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #356 on: July 26, 2012, 11:03:15 PM »
I guess I asked for that. :)

I'll be sure to wear my double plugas when I go and get them.
http://m.urbandictionary.com/#define?term=Double%20Plugas
They're not Jandals Sid

Thanks Tony, will help me get some terminals.

3 wires, do they have normally open and normally closed contacts?

Thanks
jon
« Last Edit: July 27, 2012, 01:25:47 AM by Jon »
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Offline 4-barrel Mike

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #357 on: July 26, 2012, 11:07:50 PM »
The OEM Ford one in front of me has two wires.  Use the white/red & blue wires as shown in Tony's pic.

Mike
Mike Kelly - PROUD owner of the V4F that powered the #1931 VGC to a 82.803 mph record in 2008!

Offline kiwi belly tank

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #358 on: July 27, 2012, 12:08:59 AM »
The Kiwi Jandals were tripple plugas, one in the front n two on the sides.
Ahh... the memories...rubbing a raw spot on ya toe, spinouts, blowouts....
  Sid.

Offline RidgeRunner

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #359 on: July 27, 2012, 07:28:13 AM »
Goggles & Grumm;
Do the one you guys and most people run look the same as Tony posted?

Do you remember what the plug looked like so I get the same.
I will get a couple so I have a spare but if everyone is using the same I may as well get the same.

Thanks
jon

     FWIW, the one we are installing has a white "T" shaped reset button on top.  I forgot which car I took it out of, I've seen several slightly different looking switches over the years.  They are a normally closed switch, a hit bounces a ball up to trip a lever over center to open the circuit, button on top resets the lever and switch.  Think there is a thread on here somewhere with a link to more internal details.

     Mounting space was limited for our use in a lakester so we opted for using female disconnect terminals directly on the 2 spade terminals in the bottom of  the switch.  Two on it now are a bit big, since installation I have found what should be a better fit: 16 -14 ga .110" Dorman #84547 gold plated. If you have the space you can probably get a pre tried  switch and plug for what they cost, $5.99. 

    The switch is wired in line with the control side of the fuel pump relay.  It will probably be a couple weeks before we get the whole car harness completed.  If our plan doesn't check out OK I'll post an update.

            Ed