Author Topic: Australian Streamliner Bike Build  (Read 436235 times)

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Offline Freud

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #150 on: April 05, 2012, 12:25:15 AM »
Jon you are far enough along that you should consider a rotisserie.

As your build progresses it would save you much more time than it would take to build one.

Check the www.Target550.com build diary. Post 01-15-2012_156 and 01-30-2012_157.

The principles are quite well shown in those two posts. Your build is not very heavy

and it wouldn't have to be too stout.

Just consider it. Listen to G'Pa FREUD.

FREUD
Since '63

Offline Tman

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #151 on: April 05, 2012, 10:53:06 AM »

Buy two cheap engine stands and make heads that mount to the frame. I have done this and it works great

Jon you are far enough along that you should consider a rotisserie.

As your build progresses it would save you much more time than it would take to build one.

Check the www.Target550.com build diary. Post 01-15-2012_156 and 01-30-2012_157.

The principles are quite well shown in those two posts. Your build is not very heavy

and it wouldn't have to be too stout.

Just consider it. Listen to G'Pa FREUD.

FREUD



Offline saltwheels262

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #152 on: April 05, 2012, 07:34:58 PM »
will heat from the headers affect the fire bottles?
bub '07 - 140.293 a/pg   120" crate street mill  
bub '10 - 158.100  sweetooth gear
lta  7/11 -163.389  7/17/11; 3 run avg.-162.450
ohio -    - 185.076 w/#684      
lta 8/14  - 169.xxx. w/sw2           
'16 -- 0 runs ; 0 events

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Offline Jon

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #153 on: April 06, 2012, 05:18:47 AM »
Tanks guys

Freud and Tman; I built a table about 700mm (2'3") high and 900mm(3') wide so it's not too bad to work on.

Saltwheels; I'm going to wrap the the headers to keep the heat down, if it's not enough I will get a blanket.


Dave picked up some steel for me yesterday;


Today I turned it into a blank for the back hub;


My little lathe has a decent throw but inly a small chuck so had to bore them on the mill.

The bottom flange is for the brake disk, it will have an adaptor bolt up to it as the flange has to be small enough for the wheel to go over it.

Centre flange is for the wheel mount, wheel bolts up from the bottom side.

Top flange is the sprocket carrier, it's that thick so I can machine a step in it to locate the sprocket.

Cheers
jon
Underhouse Engineering
Luck = Opportunity + Preparation^3

Offline Stainless1

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #154 on: April 06, 2012, 09:28:24 AM »
Jon, the sizes aren't shown, keep in mind the smallest rear sprocket you can mount will determine your speed capability unless you leave room for a jackshaft.  I don't remember if you mentioned one for later.  The lakester can go down to a 24, with that combo a 20-24 busa will be limited to around 357 MPH at 0 slip
I attached our speed calculator, it works for bikes and cars for you and all to play with.  To add your 600, just copy the sheet and then change the gearing numbers.  Be sure to put your new Primary Ratio in the calculator.  (Car guys, your primary ratio is 1, the drive and driven is the teeth on your pumpkin or just use your ratio)
Axel Sjogren, one of our team members put this together... he also has driven our lakester 208 on the short course.   :-D
have fun  :cheers:
Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, Bockscar Lakester #1000 with a little N2O

Offline Jon

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #155 on: April 06, 2012, 04:50:12 PM »
Thanks Stainless

I'm going to run a 30 tooth back sprocket with the CBR1000 motor, that coupled with some sprockets I have coming via Oz (the supplier wouldn't ship outside the EU) will give me from 165 through 25 in about 13mph steps.

Pretty sure it won't pull 250, the cbr1000f (hurricane) was rated at 123hp at the crank when they new.
I don't plan on doing anything to the motor for the first year.

The sprocket mounting flange "should" be wide enough for me to machine it again to fit up a sprocket flange to suit the Hayabusa chainline on a smaller PCD.

I've asked the distance from centerline to centre of chainline on a Bussa and have 4 answers to choose from.

If people are bored and have a Bussa laying around I would appreciate a some measurements so I can see where the majority says, I don't know much about Bussas, they may change between models.

I have a CAD model of a Bussa motor that I used to get the major dimensions but it doesn't have an output shaft sprocket.

Thanks
jon


Thanks
jon
Underhouse Engineering
Luck = Opportunity + Preparation^3

Offline maj

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #156 on: April 06, 2012, 07:34:23 PM »
They don't change between models, just 4 of us giving our interpretation of what we see
I may be able to get a busa club guy in your area to drop by pm me your addy or ask here
http://www.australian-hayabusa-club.com/MyBB/index.php, lots of QLD members

The earlier gsxr750-1100 have a much smaller sprocket mount  than the busa, busa limits you to a 35 sprocket,1100 a 30, maybe even smaller, but i have a 30 on the 750
Also there is an overdrive gear set available for the busa , TTS or Robinson supply them , 5th 7% od is less than reliable as it only replaces one of the 2 gears, 6th 12% od replaces both sides 

Offline Jon

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #157 on: April 06, 2012, 08:03:54 PM »
Thanks Maj

I think the easiest to get measurements to give me what I'm after are;

Distance between swingarm inner faces.

Distance between swingarm inner face and centerline of sprocket.


What's the biggest front sprocket you can run on a Bussa?
Changing ratios by only changing one gear sounds kind of wrong.......
Not saying your wrong, saying it sounds very wrong thing to do.

Thanks
jon
« Last Edit: April 06, 2012, 09:15:49 PM by Jon »
Underhouse Engineering
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Offline rgn

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #158 on: April 07, 2012, 01:26:45 AM »
Hi Jon, I hope I may be able to help with the Busa wheel measurement.  The Suzuki TL1000 and the Busa share the same wheel.  Part number variations pertain to paint colour only.

I've measured a wheel fitted to a bike with wheel correctly torqued etc.  The centreline of the wheel (using rim not tyre) to centre line of the sprocket is 115mm.  Swing-arms on these bikes are not symmetrical at either the pivot or axle end.

I'm enjoying the build.  Cheers.

Offline maj

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #159 on: April 07, 2012, 03:06:17 AM »
Thats the way they come.... tooth angle is changed to have more teeth in the same diameter but its a compromise as gears seem to pit on the faces , and about 1/2 the guys i know that have run them either don't put OD 5th in or take it out when they find pitting

Offline Jon

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #160 on: April 07, 2012, 06:20:36 AM »
Thanks guys

RGN; See your in Aus, you around the Brisbane area? Thanks for the measurements.

Maj; Are the guys getting much service time before they run into pitting?

I haven't looked into Busa gearing yet, can you run a 20 tooth front?

Not a lot to show for today;

Turned up including bearing bores, still have to do bolt patterns for wheelstuds, sprocket bolts & brake disk carrier.
I think there's enough material in the sprocket mount flange to remachine later for the extra offset for a Busa chainline and a smaller sprocket. (no fingers crossed smilie)

Cheers
Jon
« Last Edit: April 07, 2012, 06:22:55 AM by Jon »
Underhouse Engineering
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Offline rgn

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #161 on: April 07, 2012, 08:33:56 AM »
No Jon, down in Melbourne.  One day I'll move up further north... the cold and I don't agree:-)

Offline Stainless1

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #162 on: April 07, 2012, 10:04:32 AM »
Jon, yes a busa can run a 20 front.  We have run that size with our 20 inch rear wheels.  That why it was on the calculator for max speed. 
« Last Edit: April 07, 2012, 10:06:13 AM by Stainless1 »
Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, Bockscar Lakester #1000 with a little N2O

Offline Tman

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #163 on: April 07, 2012, 10:17:39 AM »
Thanks for that calcualtor stainless!

Offline Stainless1

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #164 on: April 07, 2012, 10:42:44 AM »
switching gears a little here, a few pictures of the fire extinguishing shutoff valve in Max's scooter that I promised.  

The vavle design protects it from accidental shutoff, the first pic is on

The second is off.  The is not the primary actuator, it just allows rider intervention when the system is activated and the operator does not want to pass out from lack of oxygen, it allows some regulation of the amount of agent.  

I would personally only have one nozzle with a small hole in this size cockpit.  When you fill most of the vehicle's cockpit space with rider/driver you don't need all of the agent to spray out quickly.  The small single also makes the agent last a lot longer.  I have been thinking of a way to incorperate a shutoff into the Lakester, just have not figured it out yet.
Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, Bockscar Lakester #1000 with a little N2O