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Author Topic: 1976 Cadillac Fleetwood AA/BFCC  (Read 80021 times)
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stobl
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« Reply #90 on: September 07, 2012, 07:59:34 AM »

Wow, I haven't updated this in forever....

MAY 2012

didn't get much done..another burnt out month.  I think all i did was lay the base structure for the new driveshaft tunnel


JUNE 2012

Due to previous start up issues last year because the belt-drive fuel pump wasn't building enough pressure for the injectors, i have a "pre-start primer pump" to get to the proper pressure before the belt drive can take over.  Needed a mount for it and next to the swirl pot looked like a good enough place
 

After junking the stock trunk catch (it was 100% electric), i decided to make a new latch that didn't need a key, but was somewhat hidden.  The solution was a bearclaw latch that fit the stock spot perfect.  I drilled a hole in the back wall for the release arm to slide through, and it's positioning is kind of hidden behind the rear license plate (old style tilt for the stock gas can) for when i putz around on the street.
 
Just bolted the latch to a piece of steel, and bolted all that to the stock mount
     

And a video playing around with it.
http://stoddard.smugmug.com/BuildingTheBeast/June-201/23505876_j68kbt#!i=1900097106&k=qzmzVpz&lb=1&s=A

Built a transmission crossmember - had to modify the bushing mount to fit.  just fits in the stock location.


These are the rear axle bump stops.  Measuring the distance i gave myself 4" up / 3" down travel.  With the 4 link at the position i wanted, i needed to make a spacer for the bumpstops to lower it off the frame rails.  I had some 1.5"od x .5"id tubing, that i opened up the inside a bit, pressed in some 3/8" nuts on both sides, then ground them flat.  Bushing screws in one side, and a bolt in the other side screws into the frame rail.  easiest solution i could thing of.  should be solid enough

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-Blake S
stobl
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« Reply #91 on: September 07, 2012, 08:05:44 AM »

JULY 2012

Pulled the engine out again.  UCA version 3 (I think), and also built the upper coilover mounts until i can redesign the front end when the cage goes in
 

Had to open up the frame a bit for the coilover to fit, so i boxed it in to make up for the loss of material


Start of the upper coilover mount


Mostly done


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-Blake S
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« Reply #92 on: September 07, 2012, 08:19:52 AM »

AUGUST 2012

Around mid-august I got a call from my dad telling me this thing better be out of his garage by labor day..so i kind of rushed to get a lot done.  Turns out he was just trying to put a boot in my rear to get me to come work on it again.  It worked.

Good enough for now coilover mount


Threw a heavy/quick coat of primer on the engine bay since most of it was still bare steel


Built a new crank trigger and cam trigger mount for the new hall sensors (old scrap piece i had laying around- this is midway through the chops).  MUCH easier and hopefully much better signal
 

Finally boxed in the floor supports to the driveshaft tunnel.  I'll build a removeable piece below to become the driveshaft loops
 

Installed the steering column and mounted my "dashboard"-  Since I'm using megasquirt and it has an integrated dashboard, it saves me the trouble of having to install separate gauges.  This is just an old 15" LCD i had laying around from my old computer


Found a couple of these suckers on ebay.  They're advertised as breather tanks for gokarts.  I threw a hose connector on the side, and a small filter on top, and now they're my transmission / diff puke/breather tanks!


I finally got around to running the brake lines-  braided up front, and a 1/4" hard line to the back.  the right is the rear line, and the left is the front split


Engine back in and i had a problem.  The passenger side upper control arm tab was touching the header, which shifted the engine over about 3/16" to the driver side which threw that side headers into the coilover uprights.   argh!  


So i pulled the motor back out, ground down the backside of the mounting tabs, and it solved the problem.  Not bad considering i had to reference the header clearance while building these mounts from the bad pictures i took before hand.


I rebuilt the original carb and threw it on for now.  With the issues i was having last time of starting from scratch with the timing and fuel system, i'll start the motor first with the carb (knowing it works) to get a rough timing map set.  Once that's good i'll pull it and reinstall the throttle body elbow and start with the fuel injector tuning.  I figure it'll be much easier trying to figure out one parameter  at a time instead of wildly guessing at both.


Built mounts for the shifter and shutoff levers (a 4 speed circle track shifter).  Levers will be for battery (left), parachute (center), fuel (right).



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-Blake S
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« Reply #93 on: September 07, 2012, 08:30:46 AM »

SEPTEMBER 2012 (First week)

Finally reinstalled the differential, and time to install the driveshaft.  6"x 71".  luckily a truck shop in texas could make it for me.  I'm 5'9" for reference.  I was panicking because i thought it didn't fit, but after some shimmying it slipped in like a glove.


   

Also in this picture you can see the switch panel I made (also has the brake bias adjuster mounted on it)



After all that I realized there isn't any other reason why i need to go back under the car at this point, so the car when on it's own feet for the first time in 2+ years.  I like it!   Also this is with the coilovers at the lowest settings.  Definitely need to jack it up some.
 

Two issues-  the driver side front tire (being as this one is much wider than stock), hits both the oil filter and oil tank.  I need to move them both forward a couple inches to clear, but that shouldn't be a problem.  Just need to put the bumper on to check clearances.

How it sits at the lowest setting.. maybe 1.5" off the ground to the cooler.


The only thing I had for reference Smiley



Which brings us to today (Sept 7).   I wired the megasquirt back up, filled the brake system, bled it, everything appears to work.  Today i'm going to throw back on the radiator and connect the throttle cable.  If i can get those done in time, then i'll try starting it up later tonight, but most likely tomorrow morning.   I still can't drive it due to not having the steering linkage hooked up, but it'll be a nice reminder of why i've been building this.   Saturday i need to build some chassis setup stands (just a bunch of 2x4's) so i can set the pinion angle and steering linkages with ease.  Plus i have a couple other projects i want to use them for.  If all goes well, hopefully next weekend i can actually take it around the neighborhood to get it broken in a bit  grin
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-Blake S
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« Reply #94 on: September 07, 2012, 08:42:35 AM »

With the suspension travel measurements you gave us earlier I'd be looking at relocating the radiator in a much higher position. It's really not designed to act as a skid plate. The street can have some unexpected "bumps in the road" and at other venues such as Bonneville the areas off the racing surface can be rather rough.

Other than that this has been a really fun build to watch. Keep up the good work Blake!

Pete
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« Reply #95 on: September 07, 2012, 08:42:56 AM »



The only thing I had for reference Smiley





So you're about 3 ounces off of the ground?  wink
 cheers  cheers  cheers
Keep going - happy to see this thread alive again.
This thing is frickin' awesome.
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"Problems are almost always a sign of progress."  Harold Bettes
Well, I guess we're making a LOT of progress . . .  rolleyes

We are NOT rebuilding . . . We are reloading.

GOD SAVE MG - The Queen can take care of herself!
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« Reply #96 on: September 07, 2012, 08:52:56 AM »

With the suspension travel measurements you gave us earlier I'd be looking at relocating the radiator in a much higher position. It's really not designed to act as a skid plate. The street can have some unexpected "bumps in the road" and at other venues such as Bonneville the areas off the racing surface can be rather rough.

Other than that this has been a really fun build to watch. Keep up the good work Blake!

Pete

The radiator actually mounts on top of that small bar infront of the front cross member.  those things hanging below are the trans/oil coolers.  Those definitely do need to be relocated but I'll leave them for now till i get everything else sorted out.  As it sits right now IIRC there was only about 1" space between the LCA and bumpstop, so the front end needs to be jacked up another 4-5" which would put the coolers around 7-9 I believe.  The cross member below the oil pan was just about touching the ground in this picture.  When i get the front bumper back on i'll take another picture.  I'm pretty sure it extends below the coolers (I could very well be wrong, it's been off for so long), however the engine engine bay needs a protective belly pan anyway considering how close i have the oil pan to the crankshaft.  Definitely don't need anything bouncing off the road and making those two touch.

My brother in law just picked up a nice hydraulic tubing bender, so i'm hoping early this winter we can kick out the roll cage and front clip, and be ready for racing next year
« Last Edit: September 07, 2012, 09:06:32 AM by stobl » Logged

-Blake S
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« Reply #97 on: September 07, 2012, 09:44:33 AM »

When I build my  '56 PhatPhord PU  this will be my inspiration  I have read it several times and will more   cheers cheers cheers
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« Reply #98 on: September 07, 2012, 09:53:56 AM »

Good to hear from you!! Keep digging!!!

Will we see you at the end of the month?

 cheers
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« Reply #99 on: September 07, 2012, 06:42:40 PM »

Normally I would think you were nuts but I have friends that put a straight 8 Buick into a Jaguar 4 door sedan that also happened to be in stock & set records with it. The only place you stumped me was moving the air intake so it didnt hurt the aerodynamics HuhHuh? I look forward to seeing the monster on the salt, best of luck to you. 
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manta22
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« Reply #100 on: September 07, 2012, 06:45:47 PM »

Nice project-- thanks for posting such helpful photos.

Without any shrouding you won't get much airflow through your oil coolers. I suspect that is already in your plans, though.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #101 on: September 07, 2012, 07:09:12 PM »

Hi Blake

What a Wild Hot Rod, arn't you concerned about some salt build up in the radiator being that close to the surface.

Hate to see you cook your motor, maybe in the trunk with some ducting and an electric fan?

Don
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« Reply #102 on: September 07, 2012, 07:19:03 PM »

Don, check out reply #96 above to my similar enquiry.

Pete
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« Reply #103 on: September 14, 2012, 05:47:36 PM »

Blake, I gotta say reading this build has to be what a woman reading 50 Shades of Grey mustve felt like. I just couldnt stop reading. Very cool. Thank you for taking the time to put such detailed posts and pictures up. As someone said you are quite the mad scientist but in a most awesome way. Looking foward to reading more updates as you progress along.

Not sure if I missed any backgroung info but what do you do for a living and did you have much welding experience prior to the start of the build. And for someone who says their tig skills arent all that, those are some pretty welds 
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stobl
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« Reply #104 on: September 20, 2012, 08:21:34 AM »

Oops, seems i moved some of the August and September pictures around.  here's a couple from august:

Here's the ground down upper control arm mount that gave me enough clearance


Shifter and shut-off lever mounts.  (From driver to passenger side is battery disconnect, parachute, fuel disconnect)



SEPTEMBER 2012 (since the last september post's pictures were moved around on my site, and i added new ones, here's a better post)

Prototype switch panel


Everything mostly in it's position at this point.  Once it's all set i'll pull it all out and do some final bracing/welding.


Rear bumpstop spacers.  some 1.5" OD x .5" ID steel tube that i pressed in some nuts, with the tube cut to the length i needed.  Just bolted to the frame rail.
 

Finally installed the driveshaft.  I'm 5'9" for reference.  6" aluminum x 70-7/8" between u-joints.  Found a truck place in texas that could make it.  This is why i had to redo the transmission tunnel.
   

In an effort to clean up my wiring i made a little power/ electronics section behind the dash.  some 1/2" tubing bent, fuse boxes, buss strips, and relays were eventually mounted to the right on the bar going to the firewall


When i mounted the wheels on, i realized i'm going to have to move the oil filter and oil tank.  lots of space when aimed straight ahead, but due to new spindles/wider tires (for the road), it hits way before steering lock.  Going to move it forward 3" so i also have room to mount a rock shield between the wheel and tank.
   

At around this point I attempted to start cranking on the motor.  I got a decent signal from the crank, but i simply was not getting fuel.  I looked, and the carb wasn't giving any.  Not wanting to waste more time, i just pulled it and reinstalled the EFI intake.  When i went to pressurize the fuel system, i saw my fuel filter head was leaking like a sieve.  too much welding, and i hit a dirty porous spot when adding a new bung..so it was shot.  luckily i still have my old oil filter head.  I pulled the 1-1/8" filter nipple and had a friend CNC me an adapter to fit me 1"-14" fuel filter thread.  perfect!  (need to upload the picture of the new one)   Not often you see a Caterpillar filter on a C&R head.  haha.  This is the oil filter head as i took it apart.  12an in and out, and an 8an "primer" inlet for pre-start electric pump.


I then attacked the steering and made the tubes.  doing a simple cross-over style.  When the front end gets to a better ride height, there should be plenty of clearance.
 


Now, the wall of text...


The weekend of Sept 15th i finally got back my fuel filter adapter, so in all aspects, i was ready to crank it up.  Pressurized the system, tweaked some settings and went to town.  The issue i had last year was a bad crank sensor, so this year i put in a hall type sensor to hopefully give me a better signal.  After about 10 minutes of fiddling with the settings..i got it to run.  Still was getting an intermittant loss of sync, but i could at least hold it around 1500rpms for a few minutes.  The downside is it was running pig-rich and so only after a few minutes it fouled the plugs in died.   HOWEVER.   I was able to capture a little of the second attempt before i called it quits for the night:   grin  And yes, i know i need to flip those cinder blocks.



Still running rough due to the way rich (10-11:1) fueling, and bad crankshaft signal...but this is 100% better than i had it last year.  now that im in the ballpark, i just need to whittle it down.  I have a few electronic parts coming so i can hook up my oscilloscope to the signal feed and hopefully get that dialed in some more.  Also a few resistors and bits that i need to solder in place.   If nothing major pops up, I'm hoping by the end of the weekend i can have it moving under it's own power out to the driveway!

As of today (Thursday 9/20) i put a new set of plugs in, and tweaked the ECU a bit more.  If my resistors and electronic parts are waiting for me when I get home, I'll try starting it up again this evening in hopes of at least getting it to idle properly.  Since it's taken this long just to get it running, looks like i'll be missing the last ECTA run this year.

« Last Edit: September 20, 2012, 08:32:58 AM by stobl » Logged

-Blake S
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