'84 Dodge Rampage Build Thread

[gkabbt]

What if the block (approx. 4") was not just under the axle but had a length of about 12 - 14"+.....kinda like a "mini" leaf?
With what Chris posted, would that help with the additional leverage extending that drop would have on the spring perch, the beam and the spring mounting perch, and the additional torsion that this arrangement would apply to the springs.

Gregg 

[Peter Jack]

I think it would add stress points to the main leaf at either end of the long lowering block in an area where the spring is designed to flex. While the stress would be relatively low as it's only on rebound I still don't like it.

Pete

[Crackerman]

Wouldn't a simple traction bar above axle keep all hop out as well as locate rear axle more firmly?
My examples would include the 2000ish ford explorer 2 door as well as mopar's leaf spring drag race program from the 60's before 4 links were allowed.
It essentially turned the front half of the leaf spring into a lower link of a 4link.

[Milwaukee Midget]

Well, realistically, I don't think it's going to take much - if this were a drive axle where you'd be on and off the power and needed to worry about loading and unloading traction, it would need to be as heavy duty as a typical 4-link.

This type of application might be useful and easy to create -

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=52141&SortOrder=20

[4-barrel Mike]

Or...universal Lakewood 28" traction bars are $53.95 at Summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lak-20475/overview/ which I imagine could be easily shortened to suit.

Mike

[Crackerman]

thats exactly what i was thinking milwaukee midget. except those look just like caltrac bars (without the adjustability) based on the spring end of the brackets.

i was suggesting above the rear axle for the ground clearance issues, as well as keeping the bottom of the car "clean".
this has a fixed front point (important to have height set properly to pivot without suspension bind)
caltrac, or pivoting front point bars can unload and cause more slop and bounce when direction changes
(work on acceleration, but on decel, axle wraps the other way)
http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en&safe=off&biw=1280&bih=619&tbm=isch&tbnid=WdsImSC2Bgd28M:&imgrefurl=http://forums.24hoursoflemons.com/viewtopic.php%3Fid%3D20164&docid=mq5UrV371KpGUM&imgurl=http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/271756/fullsize/22-superlift-traction-bar.jpg&w=565&h=424&ei=mvhRUdqKNKLcyQH2t4CwDQ&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=619&vpy=307&dur=7979&hovh=194&hovw=259&tx=182&ty=113&page=2&tbnh=136&tbnw=193&start=18&ndsp=27&ved=1t:429,r:42,s:0,i:214

[gkabbt]

Guys, Seems like your thoughts are simple, yet effective.

I like the looks of this! Good job Crackerman.

http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en&safe=off&biw=1280&bih=619&tbm=isch&tbnid=WdsImSC2Bgd28M:&imgrefurl=http://forums.24hoursoflemons.com/viewtopic.php%3Fid%3D20164&docid=mq5UrV371KpGUM&imgurl=http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/271756/fullsize/22-superlift-traction-bar.jpg&w=565&h=424&ei=mvhRUdqKNKLcyQH2t4CwDQ&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=619&vpy=307&dur=7979&hovh=194&hovw=259&tx=182&ty=113&page=2&tbnh=136&tbnw=193&start=18&ndsp=27&ved=1t:429,r:42,s:0,i:214

Gregg

[Milwaukee Midget]

thats exactly what i was thinking milwaukee midget. except those look just like caltrac bars (without the adjustability) based on the spring end of the brackets.

i was suggesting above the rear axle for the ground clearance issues, as well as keeping the bottom of the car "clean".

On the MGB, that's exactly how they install.

[Peter Jack]

In the old auto supply stores they were right beside the lowering blocks and had the brand name "Traction Master". They were normally mounted below the axle. 

Pete

[SteveM]

While I ponder the possibilities for the rear suspension drop, I thought I had better go on record as saying:

I'm planning to get very greasy tonight.  I will be investigating the possibility of mixing and matching inner and outer CV joints on the same shaft.

Since I'm using the later model "heavy duty" outer knuckle/spindles from a K-car, and the inner drive flanges of an early Omni/VW trans, there is no 100% bolt-in solution.

With any luck, I'll be able to swap one end of one shaft onto the other end of the other shaft.  The alternative is cutting, sleeving, and welding, which I would prefer not to do unless absolutely necessary.

Steve.

[DND]

Traction Master bars were very cool to have on your street ride in the 60's, kind of a trick gearhead thing back then.

Don

[SteveM]

Turbo manifold arrived today.  This was the most compact manifold I could find for this application.



I'll get it fitted up to the head, bolt on the turbo, and see how much, if any, clearance exists between the turbo and the firewall.

If I get lucky, I won't have to modify the firewall. (keeping fingers crossed)

[Crackerman]

that looks like it will do the job!
be sure to wrap it, or use a blanket on it. then maybe a heat shield on top of that. keep the heat in, and let it go out exhaust. it will also help reduce spool time.

[38flattie]

Sid (Kiwi belly tank) told me about a great guy to wrap that intake-Levi,  Turbo Performance Products

[tauruck]

Stout looking piece. It seems to confirm that runner length isn't important with a turbo installation. Am I right?. No jack of your thread intended but it would be nice to know. Your build is escalating day by day. You've gained huge momentum lately. GO STEEEEVE!