'84 Dodge Rampage Build Thread

[SteveM]

Gregg:
   Have you done the Lexan for your side windows yet?  I'm trying to figure out if it's more practical to make "fixed" side windows that are attached to a square tube frame mounted to the door, or try to make the Lexan windows into "roll-up" windows.

Steve

[Captthundarr]

If your widow glass is curved the lexan will need to be curved if you want to do roll up. just thought I'd say.

[gkabbt]

I am setting up my Rampage for F/BMMP.

I have not done the windows yet but they will be fixed - Pro Stock style. As you can see the back window is already lexan.

Gregg

[SteveM]

I finally got some more work done on the Rampage.  I got the back glass out without breaking it, got most of the wiring harness out, the dash out, and today I got the rear suspension off.

It was one of those fussing, fighting, cussing, spitting kind of days trying to get those darn rear leaf spring bolts out.  You know the type, where the bolt rusts itself to the steel sleeve inside the rubber bushing, and there is no way in heck that you can wrench it, pound it, or cuss it out of there.  After cutting the heads and the "tails" off the bolts, and spreading the spring mount apart while prying the spring eye out, the whole rearend finally came out from under the Rampage.

I welded in some X shaped braces into the door openings in an attempt to stiffen the structure for rotisserie mounting.

I also fabbed up some stubby front bumper bracket mounts for the rotisserie.

Tomorrow should be the day that she takes her first spin upside-down.

Anyway, here are some pics in no particular order.  I was also messing around with the B&W setting on the camera, let's see how the pics turn out.  I want to become a better photographer, so please feel free to leave feedback.

[gkabbt]

It was one of those fussing, fighting, cussing, spitting kind of days trying to get those darn rear leaf spring bolts out.  You know the type, where the bolt rusts itself to the steel sleeve inside the rubber bushing, and there is no way in heck that you can wrench it, pound it, or cuss it out of there.  After cutting the heads and the "tails" off the bolts, and spreading the spring mount apart while prying the spring eye out, the whole rearend finally came out from under the Rampage.

Steve,
Yep.....Been There, Done That and mine was no fun either.

Gregg
P.S.
Go to polybushings.com and get new bushings from Johnny....Really Great guy to work with.
http://www.polybushings.com/pages/rampbushings.html
http://www.polybushings.com/pages/rampsprings.html

[SteveM]

That's a good tip on the poly bushings.  I was thinking about having a go at making some myself, but the price seems fair for the "store bought" poly units.

I'm planning a rear axle "flip", it looks like you might have done the same with your Rampage, Gregg.  I want to do a disc brake swap for the rear axle, do the axle flip, and get rid of that springy proportion valve thing near the rearend.

Anyway, here are some more progress pics.  I got the Rampage mounted on the rotisserie today and took it out for a "spin".  Yes, that's my homely mug posing next the rotisserized Rampage.

This should make the rust repair and subframe reinforcement much easier.

Steve.

[SteveM]

Well, I had some time last night to start cutting out the rusty portion of a subframe rail, and start brainstorming about how to most effectively repair it while keeping the underbody profile as close to stock as possible.  Here's a photo essay of the work I got done last night.  (having the body mounted on a rotisserie is going to make this job much easier).



The area you are looking at in the photo above is in the passenger's side footwell/firewall area.  The mounting pad in the right hand side of the photo is for the front of the K-member.  I wanted to leave the position of this mounting pad intact, so I could maintain the correct geometry when it's time to put it back together.  The stud at the 11" mark on the tape measure is the rear mounting point for the K-member.  I want to leave this in it's factory location as well.  As you can see, the repair section needs to extend about 13" in order to re-form the "corner" of where the floor and firewall sections of the subframe rail will meet. 



Here is a close-up of the front edge of the area that I cut out.  This is immediately behind the front K-member mounting pad.  You can see that it is just about 2-1/2" from the "hump" in what remains of the factory stamped rail, to the outside edge of where the factory rail used to be.  I will be using 2-1/2" square tubing with 1/8" wall to rebuild this area.



You can see here that the factory rail was about 2-1/4" wide at this point.  The replacement rail (2-1/2" square) will be slightly wider than the original factory rail.  Since the original factory rail had a slight curvature side-to-side, the 2-1/2" square tube should work well to accommodate being welded to this slight curve.



This shot shows the slight amount of curvature present in the factory formed rail.



In order to strengthen the junction between the square tubing repair and the forward section of the existing formed rail, I will cut away part of the top and bottom of the square tubing, so it can slip over the existing rail, basically following the silver lines drawn on the factory rail.  With some careful cutting and welding, this repair should be much stronger than the original construction, and will serve as a solid foundation for the rest of the floorpan repairs and eventual cage construction.



The rear section of the stamped subframe rail will be replaced in a similar manner, and will be welded to meet the forward section.  The stamped steel "box" shown to the left will be either repaired or replaced with the same shape, but in 1/8" thick steel sheet.

That's all for now,

Steve.
 

[Glen]

Looking at the rotisserie I like what you have built but I think a center support on the long tube Would take any twist or flexing when you are upgrading. A 2" x 2" square tube with a couple of leveling holes like a receiver trailer hitch would work.
Just thinking on stuff we have done working on the streamliner.

[SteveM]

Glen:
    I'm not exactly picking up what you are laying down about the center support.  If you are talking about gusseting the vertical post, then I think I know what you are talking about.  I want to add a couple of gussets to prevent any flexing of the vertical post.

     If you are describing the long tube (the 16 foot long one down the middle), then I'm a bit lost, but interested.

Steve.

[Glen]

Steve it looks like the 16' tube is bowing down in the pictures. Only a little but could cause a little mis alignment end to end.

[SteveM]

OK - gotcha.  Good eye.  I'll make sure that all the bolts are tight on the connector piece in the middle.  I see what you are talking about.  You are correct that the body could get put in a bind if the 2 axes of rotation aren't aligned.

Steve.

[SteveM]

Got a little more work done tonight, in the form of fitting fresh steel into the hole where rusty steel resided just a few short days ago.  I have to go to work for "The Man" tomorrow morning, but hope to get some welding done tomorrow afternoon.



Here's the basic plan, before final fitment.



Outside edge, after grinding and fitting a bit.



Inside edge.  The silver line drawn on the square tube is the rough cut for the end of the "down" leg.  It will be welded to a piece of 1/8" sheet that will tie into the formed sheet metal box that extends to the rocker channel.   From there, another piece of square tubing will replace the rear section of the subframe/floor support.

[gkabbt]

Looking good Steve   

Gregg

[Milwaukee Midget]

Nice work.  Unibody construction is just a bear to work around and rust-repair correctly, and in a production based design, it's seldom conducive to building a race car. 

When I started the Midget, I, too, thought it was in bit better shape until I got it completely stripped.  Taking the time now to do it right, which I think you are, will pay off.

I've owned 2 Rampages over the years, I always loved them, and I can't wait to see how yours turns out.

[Captthundarr]

Yassir looks like you got a handle on it. I think that with the rotocar thingy you will be surprise how fast the repairs will go and how tight the car will be. looks good.