'84 Dodge Rampage Build Thread

[JR529]

In production class vehicles the airflow under the vehicle is as important as the flow over the top. Since belly pans and step pans are illegal in production class vehicles, showing up with a fabricated floorpan (whatever the original reasoning for it) in a production class car could be very hazardous to your chances of setting a record and get it certified.

Just my $0.02

[dw230]

Fabricated floor pans have been accepted. The caveat however is that the new pan must be in the OEM location and not appear to offer any aero advantage. If the original pan is NOT flat but has dips and bulges the new pan must be done in the same manner. As always, it is the competitor who must provide documentation as to OEM compatability.

DW

[SteveM]

I won't cut out and throw away any of the floor just yet.  I'll take lots of pics and not take any irreversible actions until I hear from the rules chariman.  I need to sit down with a tape measure and graph paper to capture a bunch of dimensions before I start cutting, also.

Steve.

[SteveM]

A little more progress this evening.  I managed to remove all the old "clip" style windshield trim without mangling any of it, and managed to remove the windshield without breaking it.  I feel pretty fortunate on both accounts.




 I think it's time I let you all see the full extent of the driver's side floorboard rust....



And the overall interior condition...



I think you'll be able to see why I have some questions about what is allowable in terms of floorpan replacement, and re-inforcement of the existing subframe rails.  I have a plan coming together in my mind, based on information presented here, as well as hearing back from the SCTA Rules Coordinator.  I think I'll have to re-create the existing subframe rails as close to the original design as possible on the outside of the floorpan.  As long as I follow the contour of the original floor (no streamlining, flat belly pan, etc), I should be OK.  The remaining reinforcement and cage construction will have to take place inside the passenger compartment, leaving the under-side contour in the stock shape.

[dw230]

May I suggest you contact the guys on the truck committee directly?

From section 16 of your 2011 rulebook:

Truck Category/Pickup Classes:
Ed Whiteley
559-791-0947
edwhiteley@hotmail.com
Jim Dunn
805-495-5229
dieselsalttoy@aol.com

DW

[Milwaukee Midget]

Yabba Dubba Dooo - that's what they do.  I've owned two Rampages, and to be honest, if I could find an affordable clean one, I'd own another.

I'd talk with Ed and Jim, and see what kind of latitude they'll allow you.

I was very fortunate with the Midget when I replaced my passenger side floor, in that stampings are still available.  After Chrysler stopped making the Omni/Horizon platform, I seriously doubt that anybody else was interested in seeing the lineage continue.

[SteveM]

I'll email the truck category committee members - very good idea.   After hearing from the rules committee chair, I think I'll be re-constructing the subframe and floor to be "stock replacement" on the outside surfaces, and will keep all the cage and reinforcements on the inside of the cab.

Today, however, I'll be welding on the rotisserie project.  Gotta keep it moving forward....

[SteveM]

I got the rotisserie "mostly" done.  There are a few more gussets that need to be added, and the overall length needs to be set before attaching the front bumper mounts.  The 8 foot piece of 2-1/2" tubing is just being used as a placeholder for now.



The rotating mechanism turned out to be more complicated than originally planned, but I think the addition of a bearing-containing hub will be nice.

[Kiwi Paul]

Nice work on the Rotisserie, Steve. Hope there is enough height in it to swing the shell 90 degrees or more. Also, your Garage is WAY TOO CLEAN AND TIDY!! Anyone would think you had an organised mind or something.....

[SteveM]

Paul - thanks for the compliments.  The end sections of the rotisserie telescope upwards to bring the centerline of rotation up to a max of 4 feet.  That "should" be enough to allow the entire body to rotate 360 degrees.  As I'm sure you know, however, there are always unforseen problems.

Steve.

[SteveM]

Just a little update - emails have been sent to Jim Dunn and Ed Whiteley, just waiting for a reply.  I expect them to tell me that it's OK to replace the rust with fresh steel, as long as the contours and dimensions of the new stuff match what was removed.    You can see in the pics below that some 2 x 3 rectangular tubing should be a nice replacement for the rusted subframe rail that is pictured.

[maguromic]

That's not rust, wait till get out on the salt.  Tony

[gkabbt]

Steve,

The floors in my Rampage were not as bad as yours but if you look again at my Photobucket you can see what my chassis guy did originally.  For the drivers side he took 1/8th inch sheet steel and formed a new inside drivers side and just put a flat piece over the passenger side. I still cannot figure out why (southern translation i guess)    but he did not patch the holes, just plated the floors and left the holes.   
I am in the process of drilling holes in the new drivers floor so it can be welded to the frame. After this is done, I will patch the remaining holes from the bottom. For the passenger side, I am patching from the inside and welding to the frame.

Hope this helps.   

Gregg

[Stainless1]

Either seal up the frame tubes or leave drain holes so you can wash the salt out... I recommend sealing it all up.  Bonneville salt will rust it out quite quickly

[SteveM]

Gregg - I looked through your photos, and I did notice the rust in the floorpan. Like you said, it's not nearly as severe as in my truck, but yours suffers from the same condition as most Rapages, Shelby Chargers, Omnis, etc.

Your cage looks very, very impressive.  I was a little surprised to see that the floorpan rust hadn't been addressed before the cage was fully welded in.  My intention is to fix the rusty bits first, then start on the cage. 

Do you know which class(es) you intend to run, Gregg?  The cage looks like it is suitable for any speed that you might expect to achieve.

Stainless - good point about either sealing or leaving drain holes.  I agree that sealing will be the best course of action.  I work with carbon steel all day long, and there are some decent ways to prevent corrosion in the products we make. Of course, our products don't typically come in direct contact with high amounts of salt and water.  I'm thinking about applying some anti-rust coating and possibly "emitters" inside the tubes before they are completely sealed.

Steve.