130 Club Monte Carlo lives!

[RayTheRat]

Freud was right.  I've been bouncing off the rev limiter for the last week or so, but we actually made it to Wendover and will hit the salt in the ayem. 

Here's a shot of the car as it sat in my driveway before we loaded it on the trailer (and discovered the valve cover oil leak) and one of the car in the motel parking lot.  We'll do the entry/tech thing on the morrow (after I install new valve cover gaskets)....and race on Wednesday...if the racing gods are smiling on us.

[Freud]

If you need help, ask Dickie and Korey.  No doubt that they would help.

They are experienced.

FREUD

[wobblywalrus]

Wow Ray, looks good.  Don't forget to hop out and take a picture of your car when you are headed down the track.  Good luck.  We are rooting for you.

[Schruiber]

Ray, will see you at the drivers meet this morning!  2 of us got in last night - the students and chaperones later today; Marlo and crew around noon with our car.
Michael

[Freud]

Ray made a run today.When he has time I imagine he will tell us about it.

FREUD

[Moxnix]

And maybe post a photo of his souvenir from WoS.  

Oh, I see it's on the other thread.  Ray brought his "sculpture" to Salt Talks and I, for one, was darned impressed. 

I think we'll see him back for more.

[Freud]

He's on his way home but will return tomorrow with just a camera.

FREUD

[mc1984ss]

Ray,

sorry to hear about your driveshaft in the Monte Carlo I am sure you will have it back together again and be back for next year, I loved the pictures that I saw of your car out on the salt hopefully next time I will see it in person. Thanks again for all your posts and pictures!

[wobblywalrus]

Ray, in reference to reply 141 in the Cook Shootout thread.  It shows a drive train yoke, a part that is subject to heavy cyclic loads.  Fatigue can be a problem with parts under race conditions.  One way to make them fatigue resistant is to radius and polish the sharp edges.  This reduces the stress concentrations at the edges.  Usually I do not polish the entire part, just the edges after I give them a 1/16 inch radius.  I also round and smooth any inside corners where stress could concentrate.  This is something you could discuss with your drive train expert.

[RayTheRat]

While I'm here (I just posted the Target 550 update) I'll mention one little thing we found out about the Monte Carlo last week.  The little "moment" with the driveshaft took the transmission, too.  D*mn!

I've got a spare TH200-4R, but this one was pretty seriously built...the spare is stock except for a street shift kit.  I haven't gotten into the broken one yet, but I'll at least pull the pan and see what I find.

I considered a Ford 9" and a T-56 transmission (I have reasons for wanting an OD tranny) and found that it'd only cost me about $2500 for the rear end and $4000 for the trans, clutch, etc.  Now I'm considering other alternatives. 

Referring to what wheelrdealer posted about "critical RPM" on a driveshaft (in the WoS thread) and seeing that his let go at 4100, well, I had one eye on the GPS and the other on the tach and I'd just shifted into 4th when it broke...right about 4000 RPM.  Something I need to consider seriously.  I think I may end up working with a local guy to see if we can put something together (with or without a new driveshaft from Denny's) that will handle the load.

[Captthundarr]

Ray, when I talked to my drive shaft guy I was impressed that one of the first things he asked was what was the approx max rpm the driveshaft would see and the car or leagth needed.  We are buiding a '91 camaro and he came up with a nascar style shaft. He recommended a thin wall 5" dia drive shaft but the drive shaft safety loop limited it to 3.75" and he worked with the tubing wall thickness to tolorate 6500 rpm.
Balanced with HD u- joints for $225.00.

[RayTheRat]

What you're suggesting, Capt, is sorta what I'm considering, along with a rear driveshaft loop (Tom Burkland suggested that it be mounted to the rear end or control arms, since I run a 4-link) and a heavier/off-road type pinion yoke.  I think that the rear end I'm using might be ok since it has the pillow block supports on the cover.  As least it otta be stronger than a stock one. 

Anyway, people have suggested that an aluminum driveshaft might be in order.  Looking at things, it seems that an F-body (Camaro/Firebird) uses a 41 3/4" shaft.  The G-body shaft (except for El Caminos like Bill Ward broke) is 52 1/2."  Further research is needed.

I'm not sure what to do about the transmission, tho...but I know a good tranny guy (no, not that kind of tranny)...years ago he told me that he'd built transmissions for the Nish cars...maybe if he'd built the motors, too.....well, I ain't sayin, I'm just...sayin.

[Captthundarr]

Ray , definitely on the beefier pinion support. The "drive shaft guy" is a company called Fleet Pride. they are nation wide and will useally make what ever you want and if there is a one local to you and they are worth their salt they can make recommendations. They specialize in BIG stuff but should be able to handle anything you need.

[Glen]

If I was running a sedan or other vehicle like these I would have a front and rear drive shaht loop built to handle the failure fron either end. I have seen a few over the years at the lakes and on the salt. The front can drop and pogo stick into the ground or swing around and under a tire causing lift and spinning. The rear just flops around and beats the crap out of everything until it departs the vehicle. One could consider a tube long enough to support the shaft if it failed and and prevent the whipping they go into. Just a thought.

[Captthundarr]

Glen, the rules call for a front loop in the class I'll be running, and after seeing the carnage to Ray's stuff I think I will add a rear one as well. Better safer than sorrier.