Author Topic: Removing pistons  (Read 7047 times)

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Offline mtkawboy

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Removing pistons
« Reply #15 on: March 29, 2006, 12:49:13 PM »
I dont see where youre going to save any money over starting out with a good block. Arent you going to have to sleeve the cylinder anyway to keep coolant in the motor even if theres no piston it it or am I missing something here? Maybe save finish honing but thats about it. I dont get it.

Offline SPDRACR

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Removing pistons
« Reply #16 on: March 29, 2006, 07:59:54 PM »
Hey Guys, just to chim in my dad Russ Eyres and I (Eric) have run a s.b. chevy with just  2 4 6 8 side for many years. We use a stock 90 degree crank shaft and floating bob wieghts. The rotating assy. is  dynamically ballanced , but at idle it's like a couple of pissed off harleys. In the seventies my dad got swept up in the v-4 style. You had to loc-tite everthing . We currently have two in-line odd fire chevys 180 c.i. one in Glen Chambers street roadster w/ a turbo,and the second w/crower mech. injectors. Ask JackD how well they work, he has sealed many of them for record certs. Don't know if this helps but it sure is fun to do something different.    Thanks  V/R Eric
salt is OK, but the DIRT is where it's at!
Proud 2nd generation Roadster Racer
Muroc 2 club, El Mirage 2 club, Now Bonneville 2 club,       All in a Roadster

Offline russ jensen

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finish twisted crank
« Reply #17 on: March 29, 2006, 10:12:38 PM »
:P No undersize here, bought a bunch of 3" main brngs for ols mtr{think was #1 from 303} the next step was going to be a bunch of 110-18 rod  to build up mains and rods to a 4.5 stroker crank, nobigger prject than doing a rough forging. have eng dsg book that mentions that a flat crank doesn't result in smoth balance v-8's are known for, usually found if short stroke engs. my call to Arlin Vanke saved me lots of time & trouble{ friend just saw him @ indy swap meet, so he is still kicken} Wanted flat crank for internal bal on stroker,and even out load on 2&4 mains, which are the weak point in v-8 that gets used a lot for brake i.e letting off going into corners, wanted 3" mains and hemi rod sizes to increase journal overlap . There was a fad a while ago to take 460 ford cranks & cut to sb chey size {2"} to make stroker, most only lasted   about 5 pulls in pickup, think everybody got over that one, well not everbody, a IH crank showed up w/ similar trick only better, lets use a real narrow bearing from IH trk v-8 I didn't evenwant  to grind but they already had a set of billet rods made{ a couple of pulls & lots of bearing wear-go figure} any how #1 throw was already .025 ahead of back throw, they said guy that did crank had no way to index ?? maybe . anyhow to add to problems they bored out dry sleve to put in big wet liner, but could't block rock cuz can't get cam in or out with liners in place, had to run long allen bolts from bottom of head bolt holes to  bottom of water jacket to try to hold head to what was left of deck, made a set of billet pistons as rehashed cast case pistons  only lasted a couple of hooks ,that when they discoverd the rod bearing problem ; after all this rambling, it{IH} made a couple of pulls and is still in one peice= amazing what you can get by with ;at least for a little while.
speed is expensive-how fast do you want to go?-to soon old & to late smart.

Offline smitty2

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Removing pistons
« Reply #18 on: March 30, 2006, 09:27:30 AM »
mtkawboy,
My original idea was to band saw one bank of cylinders off the engine, but since then I have decided to place motor under work bench until I get other stuff done.
I'm really getting an education here and am enjoying this thread.

Smitty

Offline mtkawboy

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Removing pistons
« Reply #19 on: March 30, 2006, 12:01:00 PM »
Me too, I love this inovative off the wall engine stuff Like Bruce Crowers 32 Nash motor for instance & the reverse flow flatheads. I wasnt condeming your idea, I just didnt see the cost savings with the block you were using but didnt understand the way you were going to do it. Good luck with it