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 on: November 08, 2018, 11:03:06 AM 
Started by tauruck - Last post by tauruck
Thanks everyone. Going to can the girdle idea and go with 4 bolt mains.
Sid knows the Aussie 351C and the blocks are way tougher than the thin wall
US casting. The Oiling thing is a done deal. First thing I sorted. cheers cheers cheers cheers cheers cheers

BTW Neil, I checked the data sheet on that material. Greek to me but I know someone wink

 on: November 08, 2018, 10:49:31 AM 
Started by Lemming Motors - Last post by manta22

Ackerman is useful on a race car for pushing the car around in the pits. In a straight line it does nothing at all but in a tight turn it keeps the tires from scrubbing.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

 on: November 08, 2018, 10:40:17 AM 
Started by tauruck - Last post by manta22
Sid, that's what my mate Derek keeps telling me.
4 bolt mains are rare here in SA but I can find the material
if I know what to get?.

Thanks for always telling it like it is. cheers cheers cheers cheers


I'd use 2024-T3 if you can find it. A 4" wrought plate might not be T3 but something close to that heat treatment.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

 on: November 08, 2018, 10:26:12 AM 
Started by lake_harley - Last post by White Monster
Strupp Services, Inc. is the operator of the ECTA (East Coast Timing Association), so why not just call Steve ?
Here is the number he posted on his FB page; 812 305 0710

 on: November 08, 2018, 09:28:57 AM 
Started by tauruck - Last post by Milwaukee Midget

Build a crank scraper in your pan, it's a must have item for the long haul & fix the crappy Clevo oil supply problem.

x 2

 on: November 08, 2018, 08:43:27 AM 
Started by tauruck - Last post by floydjer
I took a quick look at that girdle...Then glanced at my Index 745 and my arms started to hurt. Thank you to whoever invented the CNC machining center. cheers

 on: November 08, 2018, 07:34:57 AM 
Started by Lemming Motors - Last post by Lemming Motors
Thanks Sid, I really appreciate the QC.

There will be body work forward of the driver. I race 2 person canoe and in the front seat it is harder to call the steering strokes than in the rear seat as the rear has more craft to align to the direction of travel so I do understand your point - I hope I haven't over done it and I obviously hope it will be driveable - time will tell. I agree with the weight point but surely you need rear axle weight for traction and a rear engine car will have a rear bias no matter what, hence the tail fins and etc. on most but then that creates a steering effect in a cross wind - eek. If the canoe is not trimmed properly (front to back weight) it definitely behaves as is if the pivot point is near the front so the arse swings in a cross wind - something aligned to CoP I assume vs. centre of hydrodynamic balance if that is even a thing.

Philosophically a front engine front wheel drive Lakester or Liner would make sense wrt weight and traction being I the same / right place.

UK breakers wont let you wander around anymore - you go up to a shiny office, order the part and they pick it (elf and safety guv'nor). Its more like a dealers parts department now. I miss NZ style wreckers where you take your box of tools and go rootling around and find something that you had in your head but don't know what make or model it comes from until you find it.

I am targeting something around 140" wheelbase with a 240" body (a bit less if its to fit in a 20' shipping container in one piece.)
I don't think my driving position will be much different to a trad. belly tank in terms of line of sight and there will be a lot of body work behind me trying to keep it straight (well, that's the hope).

I did find a 2:1 steering quickener online per Stainless' comment - never heard of them before then literally tripped over one on a site the next day. Serendipity. Shame it has a different spline and diameter to every rack and box on their site - surely that should be an industry standard, its nuts.

Interesting comment about Ackerman - I note that Stiletto (and probably Strange) spindles have none. I assume that dragsters and Lakesters go in straight lines and so wheel slip at manoeuvring speeds is not worth accounting for - I assume you have accounted for it for the road use, not the salt?

 on: November 08, 2018, 01:17:11 AM 
Started by Lemming Motors - Last post by kiwi belly tank
My first stop for that kind of stuff is the junkyard. In the tank I used non power box out of a mid 80's Mazda pickup, it worked best for that situation but look at all that old Jap junk. The box I ended up using in the liner is an FJ-60 Landcruiser & it's up side down to get the steering shaft under the diff & above the front tunnel.
I build a new steering arm, cut out a keyhole shape in the end & press in a section of the old splined end & weld it in. Then you can set the length you like to set ratio you like.
Front axle in the tank is a ball joint tube axle from a Jeep & the steering arms are stock length but I tweaked them to correct the Ackerman. Getting the ratio I like is all done at the steering box end. On the salt I like about 12 to 16 degrees total for one turn, anything much faster than that gets a bit too sensitive & can cause over input & on a short car that can mean pointing the wrong way on the salt.
Sitting basically on top of the axle you're not going to have much feel for what the chassis is doing since there won't be any good reference point ahead of you & if you build for 65 to 70% weight on the rear with a bunch of it behind the axle for the salt you will have a car with ducks disease that you probably won't like or worse! The heavy end likes to lead.

 on: November 08, 2018, 12:16:54 AM 
Started by bvillercr - Last post by jl222
  Thinking about changing the 4 link bars to get more weight transfer, so spent a couple of hrs scaling the chassis.

  this is done by snapping a line on the floor along the side of body, marking wheel centers and distribution of weight on line

  then finding center of upper and lower bar locating holes and height of holes from ground and transferring measurements to line.

                                                       o  < center of gravity 17in  cam height

                     rear center           % of weight                                                            front    center

                          o              o                                  o     approximate instant center not for any use
 hole heights>                          
            By snapping a long line, back to front where they intersect is the instant center.  Holes not to scale, just to show basic layout.

         And from there you can determine how the chassis will react,  By changing bar location you change how chassis reacts.

          I got all the measurements marked on the floor but Troy has to come out to help line up the marks.






 on: November 08, 2018, 12:10:23 AM 
Started by tauruck - Last post by kiwi belly tank
It's been a while  rolleyes but the main cap register in the block was left the same & the outer stud holes were vertical like a BBC & we only did the center three. I believe the stud kit we used was 4 bolt BBC. You can probably come up with a machinist to whittle some out for you & then align bore the whole mess.
Build a crank scraper in your pan, it's a must have item for the long haul & fix the crappy Clevo oil supply problem.

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