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 21 
 on: December 13, 2017, 05:41:53 PM 
Started by shiphteey - Last post by ronnieroadster
 All new records will be set at the new ECTA location. The class records set at Maxton and Ohio are not wiped away they still stand for those locations which are now officially closed. Each previous record included official record certs from the ECTA which arrive shortly after setting said records. As for the license detail last time we moved we were required to go down one speed step from our current ECTA license on the first pass to get the feel of the new location. After that it was all out if you passed that first run test correctly.
 
 Ronnieroadster

 22 
 on: December 13, 2017, 04:59:06 PM 
Started by shiphteey - Last post by Stan Back
Why would they start a new record book at a different venue?  The NHRA doesn't have records for every venue.  I realize running up in class and no real certification make some records in ECTA suspicious, but if you're only after record certificates, give me an email -- I can accommodate you at whatever venue, class and speed you need to impress yourself and your friends (cheaper than really having to run a vehicle!).

Stan Back

 23 
 on: December 13, 2017, 04:48:02 PM 
Started by SteveM - Last post by SteveM
All righty then.... a little more disassembly took place, and I'm ready to drop off the block at AMT Racing engines for a thorough cleaining, magnaflux inspection, and having the deck of the block machined the absolute minimum amount to clean up the surface finish.



Rods and pistons are ready for another round in 2018.

I "think" the block is fine, except for the very rough surface finish on the top deck surface.



Steve.

 24 
 on: December 13, 2017, 04:46:11 PM 
Started by shiphteey - Last post by shiphteey
Greetings, glad to log in and see that the ECTA ain't dead and 2018 looks like a GO  afro

I'm presuming the "record book" gets wiped away and we are all starting from ZERO and all records are OPEN...is this the case?

How about licenses...surely A license riders don't have to start all over at 125  rolleyes.... right?   evil

Have a good holiday everyone, stay warm....debating this trip as its about the same distance as Loring for me...but something new and bumping into hold heads  cool

A.

 25 
 on: December 13, 2017, 04:12:19 PM 
Started by Stainless1 - Last post by kiwi belly tank
A HF notcher will last a whole build if you grease the $hit out of it & run it slow. Before I had the mill I built a jig using a hole hog drill to drive it. Nice & slow with lotsa power. I still use it for quick jobs.
  Sid.

 26 
 on: December 13, 2017, 03:22:17 PM 
Started by Stainless1 - Last post by bearingburner
I built a notcher using hole saws .Have to get speed of cutter show enough. I used a drill press smallest pulley i could find for motor an largest I could get inside guard on spindle. Bi metalic are the cutters I had the best results with. Finner teeth wotk better. Never tried cutters with abrasive edge but they might work,at least you wouldn't catch a tooth and break it off the cutter.

 27 
 on: December 13, 2017, 02:24:35 PM 
Started by fastesthonda_jim - Last post by desotoman
Please let's not get into an argument of who goes faster than who, as that does not matter.

Getting stopped before going out the back door is all that matters.

What about the time the rider fell off his motorcycle, yet the motorcycle keep going, and going and going until someone helped it fall over with their truck.

Tom G.

 28 
 on: December 13, 2017, 02:07:50 PM 
Started by manta22 - Last post by desotoman
Neil,

You have a PM.

Tom G.

 29 
 on: December 13, 2017, 01:29:17 PM 
Started by Stainless1 - Last post by manta22
Stainless;

I used a HF tube notcher to build my roll cage. It worked just fine but it needed to be shimmed a bit to get the axes aligned properly. The key to success is to use a good quality hole saw and a slow speed drill. I found the hole saws from Dewalt, Milwaukee, etc are good while the HF ones are trash. A good cutting oil is, of course, a necessary thing. Getting a drill with a slow enough speed is necessary, too. A 1/2" variable-speed drill will work; I have a two-speed 1/2" pneumatic drill that worked very well. I used a speed of about 200 rpm to cut the tubes.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

 30 
 on: December 13, 2017, 09:54:40 AM 
Started by Stainless1 - Last post by Stainless1
Sparky, We had a 7 point for years before it was mandated for lay down cars.  Not sure where you would put 2 more points... what are the other 2?  I tried google, saw reference to 9 points, but no illustrations or examples.  The belts are running out of room with all the devices.....
Jerry, only 2 copes so far have been done on anything other than the mill.  I did figure out how to do those 2 on the mill, but using the drill press was a lot quicker. I think all the others will also be milled, I like the rotary table clamp idea for the angle cuts. 
I picked up a HF tube notcher... I guess we will see it I use it or if it goes back  cheers

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