Landracing Forum
East Coast Timing Association => ECTA General Chat => Topic started by: bharmon77 on February 20, 2011, 08:28:35 AM
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I am getting ready to fire up my Hayabusa powered lakester for the first time with the idea of running the April meet at Maxton. I need a recommendation for a cooant to run, my system holds 7 - 8 gallons. A 5 gallon tank and the rest is coolant lines and what ever the Hayabusa block and head hold. Everything is enclosed with no radiator. I have had friends recommend 100% Engine Ice or Evans coolant but before I make a $300. investment for coolant I thought that I would ask the question.
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Water with water wetter or equivalent, antifreeze and Evans are flammable, and outlawed by SCTA, ECTA may allow, but if your plan is to run the salt, don't waste your cash
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Water with Water Wetter. Have a temperature gauge measuring the temperature of the coolant going into the engine. If the temperatures start to be a concern then add ice to the water.
Pete
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Thank you for the help, I found Red Line water wetter at Advance Auto Parts and the engine fired on the first try. Thats progress. I think that the April Maxton meet is a realisitc goal. See you there.
BHarmon
H/FL 7077
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Are you planning for the salt this year... lakesters need room to go....
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There is no need to use anything but plain water. Water has more heat transfer coefficient than most any antifreeze type of coolant. I have my Hayabusa running with a 9 gallon water tank and there is no overheating problem even after 5 miles at high boost.
Don
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Stainless,
Don't know, it depends on finances and how the car progresses. I have weight balance issues to finish before going to Bonneville and doing it all in one year seems like a lofty goal. I do plan to run the car at Bonneville that was the reason for building it in the first place, so we shall see???
BHarmon
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You should have called me-I would have loved to see the first fire-up!
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Dan, the surprise would have been if it didn't start right up... Those bike motors are hard to keep from running. Our only problem was when we bought a junkyard motor cheap and couldn't make it fire for more than a second or 2.... Was supposed to be a 01 or 02, turned out to be a 03 or 04.... too many scallops on the rotor for the old ECU. Just took a while to figure it out.
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If your water tank is up to it do like NASCAR cup cars . Water and air pressure . They use 30 psi cold and a 30 psi cap . They do it to allow more tape on the grille for down force . 30 psi is good to 276 f .
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Sorry Dan I really had tunnel vision this past weekend to get the car fired up and I kind of shut everything else out, ask my wife.
John's suggestion is interesting and I did not consider that approach. The tank is good it was a compressed air tank, I need to look at my hose connections and make sure that they would be up to the job. I now have a 16lb. cap and am making a small dia. radius form roll for my bead roller so that I can roll a bead at the end of the 1" aluminum tubing that makes the long runs in my cooling system if I am going to increase the pressure in the system. I am now useing the stock water pump, maybe at some point I should consider an electric pump.
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If you went the 30PSI route, it may be advisable to do away with the rubber hoses and go to -16 braided stainless hose. I am worried about the burst pressure after a bunch of heat cycles and a few years of occasional use, as well as hoses popping off of barbs. At 200mph you probably do not want to get sprayed with superheated water, as it may provide a bit of a distraction.
By the way, you said "Old computer"... how old? The '99 computers lock the injectors open when you exceed 80% duty cycle, and all the later computers shut them down completely. Kind of nice safety net, if you have the '99 computer.
Can't wait to see you take the car down the salt- great job thus far!
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If you goggle (128 psi radiator hose) you get thousands of silicone hose sellers with that claim .
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If you went the 30PSI route, it may be advisable to do away with the rubber hoses and go to -16 braided stainless hose. I am worried about the burst pressure after a bunch of heat cycles and a few years of occasional use, as well as hoses popping off of barbs. At 200mph you probably do not want to get sprayed with superheated water, as it may provide a bit of a distraction.
By the way, you said "Old computer"... how old? The '99 computers lock the injectors open when you exceed 80% duty cycle, and all the later computers shut them down completely. Kind of nice safety net, if you have the '99 computer.
Can't wait to see you take the car down the salt- great job thus far!
Where did you get this info? haven't heard this before
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If you went the 30PSI route, it may be advisable to do away with the rubber hoses and go to -16 braided stainless hose. I am worried about the burst pressure after a bunch of heat cycles and a few years of occasional use, as well as hoses popping off of barbs. At 200mph you probably do not want to get sprayed with superheated water, as it may provide a bit of a distraction.
By the way, you said "Old computer"... how old? The '99 computers lock the injectors open when you exceed 80% duty cycle, and all the later computers shut them down completely. Kind of nice safety net, if you have the '99 computer.
Can't wait to see you take the car down the salt- great job thus far!
Where did you get this info? haven't heard this before
Johnny Cheese told me that at the Texas Mile a couple years ago.