Landracing Forum
East Coast Timing Association => ECTA General Chat => Topic started by: Gwillard on January 06, 2011, 08:36:10 PM
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I'm looking for some advice on preparing my 1982 Suzuki GS1100GL for racing at Maxton. In particular, what tires? Suspension settings (soft, firm, etc.)? How to add a "dead man switch"? Safety modifications?
The bike has less than 20,000 original miles and runs great. Should I invest in a jet kit or leave the carbs as they are?
All input welcome and greatly appreciated!
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Sounds like fun. What size are the wheels?
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Welcome to the party. Try to get a rule book from ECTA asap. Should be a fun ride. Pingel and MPS both have kill tether switches that are pretty easy to wire inline in existing kill switch circuits. A steel or aluminum chain guard running the full length of the chain is usually the most challenging item for rarer bikes. Check Tiger Racing to see what they are making for for the popular big bikes for some inspiration. A steering stabilizer will also be needed in classes with records 130 and up. You will need tires rated for the record in the class you are running even if your bike isn't capable of challenging the record. I am fairly certain that means Z rated in your case but I am not positive. It may be possible to get tech'd for, and run, at a lower speeds such as 130 but I can't remember if they are still doing that for bikes or if that is just for the four wheelers.
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Life can get interesting if the deadman kill switch opens while at full throttle. That can happen with the cheaper switches. We use one of Pingel's best quality switches ordered from Tiger Racing.
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Tiger Racing...good deal! I will be happy to support a shop that supports landracing.com.
I have a 2010 ECTA rule book.
Bike is shaft drive. Tops speed at redline should be ~140-ish. It should be fun to find out. :-)
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Guys, George was a member of the Buckeye Bullet Team from OSU where he got his Welding Engineering Degree. He can also lay a pretty good bead down. Good to see you getting behind the wheel er..bars!
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The folks in tech really like the Pingle kill switch. Pingels work no matter which direction they are pulled. There was an instance last year that the switch failed and the bike went way past the rider. Suspension--firm as you can get it and tires inflated to the max. I don't remember if last years rule book said that Snell 2005 or 2010 helmets are required this year -- nothing over 10 years old. You're gonna have some fun and about anybody will help you in any way they can. My belly defeated the zipper in my leathers my first or second meet and next thing I know, a set was loaned to me by someone I'd never met.
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Guys, George was a member of the Buckeye Bullet Team from OSU where he got his Welding Engineering Degree. He can also lay a pretty good bead down. Good to see you getting behind the wheel er..bars!
Hi Mike! If you get up to Cleveland let me know. I work at Lincoln Electric (the welding equipment company) now and would be happy to give you a tour.
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Ok guys, tire sizes.
Front is 100/90-19
Rear is 130/90-16
If I read and interpreted the rule book and records correctly, the record for the class my bike falls in is over 200 mph so a ZR rated tire is required even though I don't expect to get anywhere near that.
I would like to outfit the girl with tires I can still use on the street including in the rain. (I LOVE riding in the rain! I find it very relaxing.) Any recommendations?
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Move to Vancouver. :-D
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George, we have a seven month long rainy season and this gives a lot of wet weather riding fun. The Metzeler Roadtec radials have been working very well for me. One good feature is they grip in the wet from the start. It does not take any riding to warm them up so they grip.
The tire retailers on the net and in catalogs rarely list all of the Metzeler sizes. I go to Metzeler's web site to find a tire they make in the the size and speed rating I need. Then I ask my local shop to get me that tire.
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I have both Pingel and MPS kill switches on different bikes. Both are solid builds of different designs and both are used throughout the racing community. The MPS has a connector that can wear over time if it is pulled out a lot but it is easily replaced if that is a concern down the road. I might give Pingel an edge for their design but MPS has a huge following in drag racing with some solid products so I feel safe with them as well. Sorry for rambling but I just didn't want the thread leaving the impression to group MPS with the cheap products you find with some online mega-vendors. In any case, the most important thing is to mount the kill switch at an angle where it will logically disconnect versus a 90 degree angle of pull which some folks initially mount them with. My mounting preference is the left bar tethered to a D ring a few inches below my chin. Keeps the tether away from my hands. I mount the kill for a 45 degree pull release angle though I am not sure there are any statistics on departure angles from the bike it seems to be the best option and the techs seem agreeable to it..
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Okay -- my $0.15 worth on tether switches:
I like the Pingel - but have the MPS on the bikes, mostly 'cause they were installed before I knew of Pingel. I like the Pingel 'cause it is easier for the switch to activate in case of a get-off -- from more angles than would (probably) be the case for the MPS. Both do their job fine. I've inspected bikes, though, that had the switch pointing straight up, for instance, and when the owner promised me that it would work in case of the potential get-off -- I asked him to start the motor, which he did, and then yank straight back on the tether cord -- simulating what is likely to be the motion when rider and bike are in the process of going their separate ways. So - he yanked the tether, the switch broke, and the engine kept running. End of demonstration, and an hour or so later he returned to inspection with a switch pointing to the back.
As for where to attach the tether to the rider -- I've got D-rings sewn onto the back of the hand part of my gloves. Since one bike might have the tether switch on the right bar, another on the left -- get D-rings on both gloves. I prefer the glove location to, say, the main zipper pull on the chest of the leathers -- because it's easier for me to see as I'm trying to hook it up to me - in the instance when crew isn't right there, right then, and it's time for me to get to the line. Do what you like -- I'm giving my reasoning as examples.
Back to snow shoveling -- about a foot since suppertime last night.
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George, we have a seven month long rainy season and this gives a lot of wet weather riding fun. The Metzeler Roadtec radials have been working very well for me. One good feature is they grip in the wet from the start. It does not take any riding to warm them up so they grip.
The tire retailers on the net and in catalogs rarely list all of the Metzeler sizes. I go to Metzeler's web site to find a tire they make in the the size and speed rating I need. Then I ask my local shop to get me that tire.
I looked at Metzeler's web site but, unfortunately, they don't make the Roadtec in the sizes I need.
What other tires come to mind?
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Okay -- my $0.15 worth on tether switches:
I like the Pingel - but have the MPS on the bikes, mostly 'cause they were installed before I knew of Pingel. I like the Pingel 'cause it is easier for the switch to activate in case of a get-off -- from more angles than would (probably) be the case for the MPS. Both do their job fine. I've inspected bikes, though, that had the switch pointing straight up, for instance, and when the owner promised me that it would work in case of the potential get-off -- I asked him to start the motor, which he did, and then yank straight back on the tether cord -- simulating what is likely to be the motion when rider and bike are in the process of going their separate ways. So - he yanked the tether, the switch broke, and the engine kept running. End of demonstration, and an hour or so later he returned to inspection with a switch pointing to the back.
As for where to attach the tether to the rider -- I've got D-rings sewn onto the back of the hand part of my gloves. Since one bike might have the tether switch on the right bar, another on the left -- get D-rings on both gloves. I prefer the glove location to, say, the main zipper pull on the chest of the leathers -- because it's easier for me to see as I'm trying to hook it up to me - in the instance when crew isn't right there, right then, and it's time for me to get to the line. Do what you like -- I'm giving my reasoning as examples.
Back to snow shoveling -- about a foot since suppertime last night.
Thanks Jon. I checked out the MPS and the Pingel online and agree the Pingel is the one for me. I tried but couldn't visualize any angle of pull that would not result in activation.
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I used the Pingel switch on both bikes ... really well made ... Pingel makes nice stuff and charges an arm and a leg for it ... it is quality though ...
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If I might ask, is there anything that routinely fails tech inspection?
I'll be prepping a bike for the first time, and the rule book is on the way, but if there are any things I should take special care with, I'd like to do it.
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Yes, there's one thing that happens WAY MORE than it should. It's easy to avoid, too -- and zero cost. Really.
When you arrive for inspection -- it's finally your turn -- have your paperwork filled out completely. That means you'll already have gone to the registration desk/table/trailer to get the inspection form that's pre-printed with your entry. You'll have your logbook filled out both with the front page "generic" information about your and your vehicle as well as the event information, a page or more inside. BOTH PAGES of the logbook. You'll have finished all of the things that you know you have to have done - like safety wiring, metal battery hold down strap (for bikes) (above and beyond what the factory supplies, in many/most cases), entry number and class displayed properly on both sides of the vehicle, and your safety garb with you and immediately ready for inspection.
If you show up for inspection in my part of the line and don't have these basic things ready -- I'll simply suggest you return to your pit, complete all of them, and then get back in line and wait another few minutes to another few hours 'til it's your turn once again. No, I won't let you go back and do them and then jump in line so you'd be next. I'd rather have you "penalized" for showing up not ready - than having other racers have to wait a bit more because you didn't get ready.
Now -- please, don't think I'm actually selecting you for harsh treatment. Anyone that shows up not ready -- rookie or old-timer/200 MPH Club member -- is given the same treatment. Respect others, both racers and inspectors, by being ready for inspection. Thanks.
Now -- somebody else care to mention specific inspection items that sometimes are not up to par and need doing?
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Slim is correct .... the very first box on the inspection checklist states "Logbook properly filled out" ... It holds up the line and is unfair to the next racer in line with everything filled out ...
Helmets not Snell ... just about every event someone has to go to Lumberton and buy an approved helmet ... please ensure that you have an acceptable helmet ... it is your head that is at risk ...
Metal battery retaining strap ... a simple extra long hose clamp will work for most bikes ...
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I have a list started of things I need to do to the bike. It is by no means complete. Feel free to suggest additional items!
Thus far I need...
New brake lines.
Brake pads.
Pingel kill switch.
Metal battery strap.
New tires.
Safety wire anything that isn't already.
Check valve adjustment.
Replace fuel petcock. (Original is stiff and hard to turn)
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I think you need a steering damper over 125, but I'm not sure if the bike will do it. I'd check the steering head, swingarm, and wheel bearings, clutch plates, fork oil.
I bought a 1982 GS1100G for $200 in 1994. It was doo-doo brown with an gold pinstripe. It had been sitting in an alley for 2 years. I replaced the battery, tires and rebuilt the brake calipers and rode it from Virginia to Key West without a single issue. The 3 guys I was riding with all had issues with their BMW /7 and GS bikes, although they did look much cooler. I sold the GS for $750 2 weeks later and bought a beater RZ350 with Toomey pipes.
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I think you need a steering damper over 125, but I'm not sure if the bike will do it. I'd check the steering head, swingarm, and wheel bearings, clutch plates, fork oil.
I bought a 1982 GS1100G for $200 in 1994. It was doo-doo brown with an gold pinstripe. It had been sitting in an alley for 2 years. I replaced the battery, tires and rebuilt the brake calipers and rode it from Virginia to Key West without a single issue. The 3 guys I was riding with all had issues with their BMW /7 and GS bikes, although they did look much cooler. I sold the GS for $750 2 weeks later and bought a beater RZ350 with Toomey pipes.
Steering damper added to the list! Your other suggestions as well.
New brake lines.
Brake pads.
Pingel kill switch.
Metal battery strap.
New tires.
Safety wire anything that isn't already.
Check valve adjustment.
Replace fuel petcock. (Original is stiff and hard to turn)
Steering damper
Check steering head adjustment
Inspect swingarm bearings
Inspect wheel bearings
Inspect clutch
Fork seals and oil
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Hi
A seering damper is required if the record for the bike is over 125. It dose not matter if the bike will go that fast or not. But the damper is a good idea anyay.
Don't forget metal valve stems and caps I always have extra caps if anyone needs them.
Welcome t his will be fun
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Now -- please, don't think I'm actually selecting you for harsh treatment. Anyone that shows up not ready -- rookie or old-timer/200 MPH Club member -- is given the same treatment. Respect others, both racers and inspectors, by being ready for inspection. Thanks.
I've been racing for a long time.
It didn't take me too long to figure that if the tech guy is happy, your race day will probably go a whole lot smoother :cheers:
Thanks for the input. I've never had a log book before, so I'll make sure to get it right.
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My 2 cents from my personal experience:
1. Proper valve stems and valve stem covers
2. If you have a fuel tank crossover line, fire proof sheathing.
3. Any glass headlight or speedometer face taped
4. Battery tied down with strap metal or something better than a hoseclamp (use a T-clamp ?)
5. A toggle, positive on/off ignition switch within reach of riders hands without removing hands from handlebars. (This is in addition to the tether kill switch).
6. Your throttle must "snap" shut.
7. Drill and safety wire per rule book
8. Rider gear per rule book (Do not skimp, ask Debbie about going down at Maxton...)
/Daniel
FWIW : I am using the MPS kill tether, and properly positioned will do it's job.
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Every year I remove all critical bolts and check to make sure the threads are clean. Then I clean as needed and tighten them to desired torque with a calibrated torque wrench.
Why do I do this?
Some of the tightening force is used to overcome friction and the remainder is used to stretch the bolt when a fastener is tightened. The tension from stretching the fastener creates the clamping force. Excess tightening force is used to overcome friction on a corroded fastener. There is not enough remaining tightening force to provide proper bolt tension and clamping force.
This is not in the inspector's check list. It is one of the common sense things a person learns from experience.
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WW, back in the late 60s my dad worked as the sales manager for Premier Industrial in Cleveland. Premier was a manufacturer of "Supertanium" fasteners -- grade 8 nuts and bolts and so on*. His training, passed on to me in our garage, included the fact that about 80% of the torque applied to a fastener was to overcome friction - and the remainder to stretch the thing. Therefore, he taught me, if using a lubricant on a fastener - don't inadvertently damage it by overtightening. With a lube you'll need far less torque to achieve the required stretching for maximum strength.
By the other way, thanks for the photos and such. We appreciate 'em.
* And they also supplied most of the fasteners in Gasoline Alley at Indianapolis, and therefore were the benefactors that got me into the garages during qualifying weekends for about 5 or 6 of the races during the late 60s. Think I didn't enjoy that? Wow -- Valhalla to a teen-aged kid!!
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In reference to a hose clamp for a battery hold down, that will not pass tech in SCTA. Maybe Jon or another inspector can clarify for ECTA. Have fun! :cheers:
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We USUALLY will allow a hose clamp at the bike's first visit to Maxton - and along with that allowance is usually a note in the logbook that the hose clamp should be replaced with something more substantial by the next event. The metal retainer is a "belt-and-suspenders" thing - but as long as we have it in the rules we want it to work properly if needed. The one-event bye is sometimes not allowed -- if the bike's battery retention devices are pretty lame as presented. So - to be sure, make it a good one before showing up.
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In addition to strap metal, will a T-bolt clamp pass ECTA/SCTA inspection for a battery strap down ?
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I'm sure this is not an issue for anyone posting on this site, but no telling how many guests might view this. Jon has told me that several first timers have safety wired the proper items but not in the right direction. Strange but true.
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As someone who has never safety wired anything, maybe you can clarify that for me?
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The safety wire is installed so that it pulls in the tightening direction. If you Google safety wiring procedures there are lots of good diagrams.
Pete
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I safety wired a lot of stuff in the Air Force. It was the first thing Quality Inspectors looked at. Direction, turns per inch, termination, practically an art form. Definitely a right way and a wrong way.