Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => Build Diaries => Topic started by: Fheckro on October 30, 2010, 02:33:53 PM
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Hi all,
I am looking forward to really getting into this project. So far it has been sporadic. A little here and there when ever I had time (which is a premium commodity around here).
I plan to start with safety equip.
Roll cage
Fire suppression
Seat / Harness
Numerous other items to get into proper configuration
I will run the car through tech and see how it handles at whatever speed it will go (110 or 120) with the current old power plant and suspension. have l little fun.
Phase two - Build the motor and transmission.
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I got the car from my son after he wrecked it (not his fault). I decided to build a hotrod for the street ( I had no knowledge of Maxton or what went on there yet). I converted it to a V8 and cleaned up the body.
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The first task was to beef up the inadequate sub frame to carry the big engine. To do this I cut a cross member from a mid 70s "B" body Chevy and grafted it into the Monza.
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I also relocated the steering box and linkage about 6 inches forward. Doing this eliminates the need for a special oil pan and allows a wider selection of engines to be used.
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I took a full size B body radiator and built a support to carry it. the radiator lays back at about 15 - 20 degrees.
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The drive train consists of a turbo 350 and a Ford 9in rear end. I will swap the automatic for a standard eventually (in phase 2)
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As soon as i get room in the shop (soon i hope cause the wife is kicking the Monza out of the regular garage for the winter) I will start dismantling the interior to add the roll cage and stuff. Right now I'm modifying/restoring a 69 mach 1 (another project that I got committed to before I experienced Maxton) but my head is at Maxton.
More pictures as i go, but I usually don't have time to even look on the computer much less post (today I hurt my back and can't do anything except sit here, and even that hurts!).
Fred
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That is a nice clean looking car. It is not overdone, stylewise. Just right.
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Thanks. It did turn out nice. I almost hate to cut it up for Maxton...almost. :evil:
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I'm getting ready to buy the cage material.
Has anyone used Competition Engineering stuff? http://www.go-fast-parts.com/5709255.html
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Check with the rule book to see if is heavy enough for ECTA rules.
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I'm getting ready to buy the cage material.
Has anyone used Competition Engineering stuff? http://www.go-fast-parts.com/5709255.html
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This cage set up is legal using the 1 3/4 .134 tubing,,, Dont order the 1 5/8.. ask them if it is DOM or EW tubing
I prefer DOM... but at .134 thickness and a good TIG welder all will be fine with this kit.
Charles
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With a .134 wall on either DOM or ERW tubing mig will work really well. You've seen how all the NASCAR cars can fly and hold up and that's the method of construction they use.
Pete
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i second the cajun kid, DOM and tig. i don't care what nascar does. my cage ...........13/4 X.156 DOM, tig welded. :-D :-D :-D
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I'm getting ready to buy the cage material.
Has anyone used Competition Engineering stuff? http://www.go-fast-parts.com/5709255.html
[/quote
This cage set up is legal using the 1 3/4 .134 tubing,,, Dont order the 1 5/8.. ask them if it is DOM or EW tubing
I prefer DOM... but at .134 thickness and a good TIG welder all will be fine with this kit.
Charles
Wish I had seen this sooner! Why not the 1-5/8?
edit: Nevermind! I just read the rules for the other classes, instead of just the one I'm building for.
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I'm getting ready to buy the cage material.
Has anyone used Competition Engineering stuff? http://www.go-fast-parts.com/5709255.html
[/quote
This cage set up is legal using the 1 3/4 .134 tubing,,, Dont order the 1 5/8.. ask them if it is DOM or EW tubing
I prefer DOM... but at .134 thickness and a good TIG welder all will be fine with this kit.
Charles
Wish I had seen this sooner! Why not the 1-5/8?
edit: Nevermind! I just read the rules for the other classes, instead of just the one I'm building for.
Confussed, 3.B.1 Roll Cage Line #4 "requirements for cage type roll sturcture in all other classes is 1 5/8" x .120 (.134) wall". Don't get me wrong, 1 3/4" is heavier but why not 1 5/8"
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After re-reading it, that's a good question.
Charles, is the 1.75" so much stronger, that you wouldn't take a chance with the 1-5/8?
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Put it this way... Joe Timney told me that 1.75" .134 got worn down halfway
@ B-ville by a car that flipped and slid on its' top for a mile or so... He only
uses 1.75" .134 or bigger now. I'm rebuilding my cage with the aforementioned
size, up from a 1.625" .120 wall. Bigger, thicker, better. Just my .02
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Put it this way... Joe Timney told me that 1.75" .134 got worn down halfway
@ B-ville by a car that flipped and slid on its' top for a mile or so... He only
uses 1.75" .134 or bigger now. I'm rebuilding my cage with the aforementioned
size, up from a 1.625" .120 wall. Bigger, thicker, better. Just my .02
I just wondered- I had just ordered 1-5/8 .134 wall a few days earlier. Sure makes sense now!
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I used 1 3/4 x .120 DOM.... and lots of it... center windshield to dash bar (Earnhart Bar) as well as 3rd roof bar, and Petty Bar and tubular 1" x .120 DOM gussets at every tube junction. over 24 of them.
So I am OK with 1 3/4 x .120 DOM ... 1 5/8 x .134 DOM would also be very strong,,, the wall thickness is a plus,
However,,I am not sure which is stronger 1 5/8 x .134 DOM or 1 3/4 x .120 DOM.... ???
Cage and Chassis construction and design also have a lot to do with it, not just the differance in material.
Charles
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Thanks for the explanation!
I ordered an Art Morrison 10 point funny car style cage, that GH is going to install. I saw a lot of pictures of your cage, and that's a lot of tubing! Looks great!
Your car is far faster than mine will ever be, and I've got far more cage than the rules car for.You obviously agree though, after looking at your cage, that we can't be to safe!
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I used 1 3/4 x .120 DOM.... and lots of it... center windshield to dash bar (Earnhart Bar) as well as 3rd roof bar, and Petty Bar and tubular 1" x .120 DOM gussets at every tube junction. over 24 of them.
So I am OK with 1 3/4 x .120 DOM ... 1 5/8 x .134 DOM would also be very strong,,, the wall thickness is a plus,
However,,I am not sure which is stronger 1 5/8 x .134 DOM or 1 3/4 x .120 DOM.... ???
Cage and Chassis construction and design also have a lot to do with it, not just the differance in material.
Charles
Thanks for the input Charles, I stuck my head in the Stude at Maxton for some ideas. Great cage, aint nuthun wrong with too much safety. For a given leagnth both sizes are comp.
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We used 1 3/4 dia. X 1/8 DOM on the drivers compartment of our lakester, because what if the change the Min requirements before you are finished?
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True dat.!!!
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Thanks for so many good ideas.
So it seems that 1.75 is the way to go size wise. I decided not to go with the prefab cause the shipping was too much. I can buy the material locally but there seems to be a shortage of 1.75 tube bending dies( shops are all geard up for 1.625), so maybe I will just have to buy my Own.
Fred
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I have one of these in 1 5/8". Pretty nice piece.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-3-4-Tubing-Tube-Bender-SandRail-Prerunner-Baja-/160425626006?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item255a1cc996 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-3-4-Tubing-Tube-Bender-SandRail-Prerunner-Baja-/160425626006?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item255a1cc996)
Mike
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I know I said I was going to buy a tubing bender (and i am) ... so how in he double hockey sticks did i wind up with this!!! No self control!
come on Fred... focus
Jerico 4 speed/w .88 over drive.
used once by little old lady.
$1800
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Today I Stripped out the interior and welded up all holes in the floor.
Also I removed the heater and blower motor and fabricated a plate cover the hole (see attached). I used the original bolt holes and sealed it with fire seal.
Yesterday I wired up my cutoff switch. I fabbed up a nice steel mounting bracket for the switch and had everything ready to go, then like a dumb ass i
forgot to turn it off. This morning when I returned the battery was stone dead (It was already half dead) of course because the door was open all night and the lights are still connected :-P.
I am learning about coil cell batteries. They are very hard to charge from stone dead!
I talked to a local steel supplier and he quoted me $116 for a twenty foot stick of 1.75x 0.125 DOM tubing.
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Doing Cad modeling to get some ideas. Attached are pictures. I think this is what I will start with.
I may want to add more later. The forward tubes will connect to the front shock towers. I'm not sure about
the dash bar, It may have to move or curve cause I don't see how it's going to clear the steering column and everything.
Also, I Still need to get the seat so I can find the exact positions of the shoulder cross bar. I want to add a bar that runs
down the back and under the seat. The cad model is not exact but is close to the dimensions that will be used.
Fred
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I guess I am not the best bloger. It has been a while but I have been making steady headway, albeit slow.
I got distracted with the transmission. I found a "Monza" bell housing but the trans hole needed to be re sized to fit the Jerico transmission. Th eMonza uses a cable throwout bearing so this particular bell housing is rare. I was able to find a local machinist to do the work on the barter system. So now I have a Jerico 4 speed and bell housing.
last month I was able to locate a clutch pedal and now that is all installed in the car and ready for duty. This week I scored a billet steel sfi approved
flywheel so i think all I am lacking is the clutch, throw out bearing and scatter shield.
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On the Cage subject:
I purchased a 24 foot stick of 1.75 x .120 DOM tubing and a bender from harbor freight tools.
I read a post somewhere by someone who claimed he could make decent bends with the "Harbor Freight" bender... after making a few modifications.
I figured if he's right I could save a bunch of money so I gave it a try. Bottom line...FORGET the Harbor Freight bender. (I know, but I am a guy who wants to see?try everything first hand)
So Wednesday of last week I was happy to receive a set of 1.75 Dies from Pro Tools. I am now about finished with the construction of the HMP 200 – HD tube bender.
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While on the subject of tubing benders…I also decided I am going to need a mandrel bender to fabricate exhaust. I will need a set of headers for this beast and the off the shelf examples are quite pricey, so I might as well spend the time and money on building tools I can use over and over.
I designed this mandrel bender and am about complete with the construction. All that is lacking is the pressure block and mandrel.
So that’s what I’v been up to lately.
See you all in April
Cheers!
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more pictures
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I've turned my Hossfeld into an internal mandrel bender. It's really tough to get it adjusted correctly and then the next piece is a little different and may or may not work. It's tough enough with a properly designed Pines bender.
Most of us who build custom headers start with u-bends. They're available in just about any size you can imagine and usually in several bend radii. They're available in either mild steel or stainless in several different alloys and wall thicknesses. Even if you're going to bend your headers the best way is to start out with u-bends to make the prototype.
Pete
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Listen to Peter!! You could have the headers built and coated using U bends before you ever get the first good bend out of your bender. Even if you get your bender to do good bends you will most likely not be able to make all of the tubes from one piece just because of the way things turn out when you build headers. If you are really set on making headers without welding the other method is sand bending. Lots of work but they do come out nice, if you know what your are doing. I helped Doane Spencer make a set once, and they were beautiful! but I have made many sets of headers and have never attempted sand bending, U tubes work best.
Rex
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Peter and Rex,
Thanks for the tip, I'm not saying you aren't right but I want to try it anyway. I used to run a tubing bender in my good old Air Force days and I have wanted to build one ever since. what's sad is I'm just now getting around to it. :cheers:
Any way, I have had great success with the JD bender. I have the main hoop and halo bar bent and am in the process of fitting them. It gets kinda interesting doing it by myself.
I ordered a seat from Joe Timney so i will not be doing any final cutting until that arrives. I have plenty of extra meat on the halo which leaves plenty of room for adjustment. I am wondering how far forward should i let it extend. you can see in my terrible sell phone pictures that it extends out from under the roof line into the windshield (or could). But I could get it up higher if i move it back. The more forward it is the cleaner the A pillar bars will look/fit. the more aft gives more head room.
Fred
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I'd pull it back until it's at least clear of the windshield and maybe a little further. It looks to me like you could then put the forward supports in so they follow the windshield posts and things should turn out pretty nicely.
Bye the way your bends look really good.
Let me know how your mandrel bender for the header tubes works out. I was doing 7/8" dia. .035" wall 4130 when I did the mandrel bender for the Hossfeld and my success rate was about 50%. It would work for a ways past 90 deg. and then sometimes kink. The placement of the internal support is really critical. It's the same way with the purpose built Pines bender but the success rate is much higher once it's set up. I hope your setup works a little better than mine.
Pete
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The Harbor Freight bender is made for pipe not tubing. OD of tubing is a standard size say 1 3/4 " . There is NO dimension that is 1 1/2 on a pipe of that size
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Mr Burner ,
Yes I know. However there is a guy who made the ridiculous claim that by massaging the next smaller pipe die ...among a few other things..., he was able to make fairly decent looking bends with the harbor freight bender. I just wanted to see what he was talking about.
It will bend " tubing "
Turns out his idea of decent and mine are not the same.
Think it has more to do with the fact that it is a RAM type bender and not a draw through.
Fred
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I have a question about Modified category, Altered Coupe / Gas Coupe classes. I hope these don’t sound too stupid.
I think my car fits (almost) into the Classic category, but I would like to run a non-stock super charger. So that will put me in Modified (I think) in either /CBGC or /CBGALT.
/CBGC allows the non stock supercharger, but does /CBGALT? I don't see any reference there.
There is also something in /CBGC about radiator being mounted in the original location. Does that apply to cars with the radiator enclosed under the hood or is that for open radiator designs? I will have to switch mine back if that applies to bodies with the radiator enclosed. (Mine is laid back at 20 degrees so the hood will close).
In /CBGALT it looks like there is a lot more latitude with aerodynamics, but the record is only 4.6mph higher at 224.33. Are the added aerodynamics like rear spoiler , blocked grill, step pan, ect. only worth 4.6mph? Or is it worth trading up?
Sorry if this sounds stupid.
Fred
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With masking tape, cardboard, a hacksaw, and prayer I got an extra 2 mph out of my Escort.
I bet that if you do it right it would be worth a lot more than 2 mph.
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the latest Monster question...
I want to run Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires because 1) i work for Michelin and they practically give them to me, 2) We test them at full load running at 240mph for 8 hours without any failure. 3) they are just plain sweet tires.
Problem- 245/45(Y)17 is the smallest size currently (215/45 (Y) 17 next year). To run them on the front I need 2 17x7 inch steel wheels which are proving hard to find.
Question- does anybody know of an OE fitment that carries this size?
Should I run alloy wheels on the front?
fork non ferrous wheels, what does "1/4in thick steel retaining plate" mean (2.G) in the rules.
how large is "Large" when referring to large OD individual washers (2.G)? is that what Cragar sells for it's wheels?
Thanks
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Fhreckro;
It depends on the record in your class-- if the record is over 200 mph, you need racing tires & racing wheels. Street tires, no matter what their speed rating, are not legal if the record (not your car's speed) is over 200 mph.
The rule book spells it out.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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wheels... as i read it "manufactured for racing or reinforced by welding the entire area of attachment...ect"
Tires ... "Exception to any part of the forgoing may be granted by submission of a letter from the manufacturer (me) stating the speed and pressure ect"
I am hopefull to say the least. these are really nice tires.
Fred
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A lot has transpired since my last post.
Finished the cage (turnned out nice).
Sold the car. :-o
Bought another Monza Hatch Back (with cage, not as nice but good) :evil:
Installed a 6.0 LQ4 with:
Demon carb.
Mcleod steel flywheel and Center force clutch
Quicktime Scatter Shield
bolted in my ebay Jerico WC 4 speed
put a set of 2.73 gears in the existing Ford 8.8 rear
Installed an Ultra Shield seat ( from Joe)
bought a Stroud sfi A/20 fire suit (from Joe)
made numerous updates/improvements to the chassis
stuck a set of Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires on it
Went to the Sept meet and ran 154.7
Came home and :
installed a Texas Speed 233/239 .595/.603 112lsa cam and put a set of 2.73 gears in the existing Ford 8.8 rear
Went to the October meet and ran 160.6
At the moment i have the engine out and transmission disassembled.
I am looking for a used gear set for third with 26/23 or 1.714 ratio.
Hope to be at Wilmington in April
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The tranny is in with a 26/22 for third gear. I got a deal on a used set from Hitower in Greenville. It's not what i thought would be the ideal ratio but it's close and the price was right (+ what do i know about "ideal ratios" anyway). The transmission looked to be in very good condition. I was a little concerned cause it was an impulse buy from ebay. Turns out the previous owner was mistaken about their set up. Jerico main drive sets are unique in every case except there are two that are sisters. 25/24 and 24/25. The case was marked with ratios from the 24/25 main drive column but upon dis-assembly i found the main drive set to be a 25/24 ( ha ha). Well maybe that is why they dumped it. who knows.
The new set will give me a much better step between gears ; 32 - 18.5 - 15.4 for first to second, second to third, third to forth. which beats the heck out of the previous set. before when i shifted to 4th the pore thing would dog out and never would recover till just about the time i passed through the trap.
Also i have re-designed the front suspension. It is now 2in lower (with capability to go lower) while maintaining a better kinematic relationship. Before the stock suspension was unaltered and the springs were just cut to obtain the lowered stance. Result; crazy handling. + the car couldn't go any lower because it was on the bump stops (shaved !). So i undid all that and installed a set of drop spindles and relocated the upper control arm pivots (which led to the rerouting of the header pipes) to help eliminate bump steer. I was able to build in some extra caster and it will now sit at 0 camber. Also i installed a set of beefier springs. Before the suspension travel was 0 down and about an inch up. Now i have about an inch up and down. It will buttom out at about 1.5in above ground. Hope to see a vast improvement in handling at Wilmington.
Other than that i haven't had much to do. :-o
Looking forward to seeing you all in Wilmington.
Fred
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The new suspension is much better. I am happy with the improved performance ( having a real third gear was an immense help). I went 170+ change but wasn't able to really get the mixture tuned. She was way fat on Saturday and still fat on Sunday but we only got 2 runs all weekend and were concentrating on other things. The car handled well but still seemed a little light at speed. I am putting the car on corner scales this weekend, I already was messing around with them and discovered there is a big uneven loading corner to corner. This weekend will be the real weight and balance session. Also i think i will lower it down another 0.5in or so.
Ordered a Stroud parachute from Joe. I will have that on for the next round. Ordered a stock monza 2+2 rear spoiler for whatever that's worth. That might be on there if there is time.
Next on the HP agenda is to port the LQ4 "317" heads.
Improvements to car: all 4 wheels planted firmly + A few extra HP from porting the heads.
Improvments to environment: less dense air
Net: Goal for July ... 175...+
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Ever consider going to rectangular port heads+intake, i.e. LSA heads, Vic Jr.
carb intake? Gobs more CFM stock than a heavily ported 317. We upgraded
from a LS6/317/ZO6 cam combination to a Vic EFI/LSA/Virginia Speed combo,
expecting another 125+hp N/A. We were making appx. 25hp/psi on our old
setup, hoping for 30+hp/psi with the new junk. At 20psi, 1000whp-ish? :-D
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Also i think i will lower it down another 0.5in or so.
How about lowering just the front to give it a bit more rake. That may help plant it a little more firmly.
Pete
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Ever consider going to rectangular port heads+intake, i.e. LSA heads, Vic Jr.
carb intake?
Yes, but then reality set in. I think i am going to stick with the 317s for now and get what i can out of them NA. The plan is to turbo it after we get the chassis working and all the parts moving in the same direction. Actually the 317 heads work very well with turbos.
Thanks for the tip though
Fred
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How about lowering just the front to give it a bit more rake. That may help plant it a little more firmly.
Pete
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Yes that is the plan. I can adjust the rear height very easy so if it needs to go up or down that can be done at the track. Front suspension is pretty much a full dis assembly type job.
Thanks
Fred
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Yes, but then reality set in. I think i am going to stick with the 317s for now and get what i can out of them NA. The plan is to turbo it after we get the chassis working and all the parts moving in the same direction. Actually the 317 heads work very well with turbos.
Thanks for the tip though
Fred
They do work well, even with light porting. LSA/L92 does have an advantage, though. Any tips for the turbo set-up,
let me know. We've learned a LOT in the past 3 years of LSR with a turbo LQ4.
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what was the turbo LQ4 in?
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We have a 98 Camaro, running C/BFALT. Stat sheet as follows:(I'll try to keep it short :-D)
Old setup-
LQ4, 364ci
Diamond pistons, Compstar rods, stock crank
Z06 cam, LS6 intake, 317 heads
S488 turbo, A2W intercooler
Jerico 4 speed w/ QM 7.25" clutch, 9" rear
Running HPtuners w/ stock ECU
745whp/712wtq @ 15psi (kept losing traction past 5K on dyno, so who knows)
New setup-
LQ4 bored .30, 370ci
Wiseco pistons, Compstar rods, stock crank
VA Speed 246/248 @ 115, Vic Jr. EFI intake, LSA heads
Same turbo & intercooler, same tuning & ECU
Same trans/rear
Looking for over 1000whp/1000wtq @ 18+psi
Best Maxton - 196mph Best Loring - 201mph (motor went kablooey in Maine)
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The old setup made good power, but didn't ever seem to run "right".
We found a leaky BOV, why we weren't building boost quickly under load,
and suspect boost creep on the wastegate was making things lag, too.
Fixed the BOV, added a Hallman MBC to address the creep problem.
What size/brand turbo are you thinking about using? Ours is a Bullseye T6 flange S488, 1.32 AR.
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Best Maxton - 196mph Best Loring - 201mph (motor went kablooey in Maine)
Luke, u sure it went kablooey and not kapow or blam?
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Luke, u sure it went kablooey and not kapow or blam?
Maybe Ka-Pow, or Ka-blam... Made forged rods into nice crescent-shaped pieces :-(
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Just received my Stroud chute.
I am thinking i want the handle near the steering wheel for easy access...
but that would have to be a direct pull rearward ("T" handle like the fire handles in a DC8)
Question.... Which is better, lever type or direct pull handle?
Forward pull or rearward pull?
Any reason one is better than the other?
Fred
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I don't know -- but I always figured I'd be grabbing things in an emergency. Fire bottles, chute, fuel shut-off -- grab anything you can find to get outta this mess.
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TRy to make everything that has to shut off go in the same direction. Push to dump parachute, push to fire bottles, push to turn off fuel, etc. Or pull.
DW
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Careful with the push to activate fire bottles as there have been more than a few folks that accidently fired the system at the wrong time by bumping them. :?
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Also saw one of the push to activate style break off at the pin hole when it was accidently bumped sideways by a crewmember while working in the cockpit on something else.
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July at Wilmington:
New stroud chute worked perfect. Pilot chute is almost destroyed by repeted scuffing along concrete. I setteled on pull type release(i will post pictures). The handle is mounted in the center of the dash above the switch panel. It has bout 4in of travel directly rearward.
I ran 174.1 so technically i dont even need it yet but it is there when/if i ever do.
Other improvments include -
gental massaging of the 317 ls1 heads. (There isnt much performance left to gain over stock but every little bit helps).
Lowered ride height 0.5in.
Added window tabs
hood pins on the rear hatch.
Also i would like to say congrats to Rod and his HVAC Express gang for their new record on the salt !!
Fred
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Next on the scheduel is air dam rebuild. The new dam will have a rubber skirt along the lower 4in . For loading ramp clearence it hinges up. I will post some pictures. I dont know if any of you saw the old one but this one will be much cleaner aerodynamically
I am also working on a CAD model of a carb spacer that is similar to the super sucker. This model is adjustable so it can be port matched to any carb and manifold combo. My friend (who does a lot of pro-mod engine tuning on the dyno) claims he will typically see 20 hp increase regardless of motor setup when super sucker installed. We will see...
I will install a new rotating assembly. The details have yet to be determined. All i know is i have been thrashing the stock monkey motion long enough. Besides... there may be a power adder in the future.
So that is what is on my plate. The air dam is almost complete. Rotating assembly laks funding.
Fred
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The Air Dam
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The chute handle
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Also i will be adding a factory 2+2 spoiler
and i forgot to mention Moon wheel discs but that will be after the new year.
Fred
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WOW Fred,,, you are getting SERIOUS now,,, Keep up the good work,,,
I am glad you got the Stroud Chute,, stop by my pit,, I will show you how to keep the pilot chute a bit more healthy..
Good thinking on Pull vs Push for Chute deployment,,,,,
Will you be at Ohio in Sept. ?
Charles
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Thanks Charles,
Its up in the air for Sep.
I might come up without the car if its not ready.
Dennis, my crew chief has a cosworth vega. We might bring that.
Fred
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Pistons arrived along with the eagle rods and comp cams bump stick. Last weekend I pulled the motor. Tomorrow I am taking everything to machine shop. Should be about 12.? : 1 when finished. That ought to wake it up (or me).
Its been kind of hard to get anything done what with all the questions…”how much money are you spending on that thing?” “when are you going to work on my mustang?” “ why are you removing a perfectly good engine?” “are those parts really necessary?” "when are we going to my sisters?" …ect.
Which leads me to the conclusion – land speed, it’s not a hobby… it’s a sickness.
Fred :-D
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Working on my door net. The way this cage is fit it is hard to get the net to seal off the area in front of my hands. I am considering adding a bar from top to bottom just forward of the net. I taped off the forward most line I can achieve. The buckle is in front of the halo bar and almost touching the windshield and the lower forward corner is at the firewall.
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Next on the scheduel is air dam rebuild. The new dam will have a rubber skirt along the lower 4in . For loading ramp clearence it hinges up. I will post some pictures. I dont know if any of you saw the old one but this one will be much cleaner aerodynamically
Fred
We have used conveyor belt material for the lower "scrubbable" portion of our front air dam... Stiff enough to keep its'
shape, rivet through and it WILL rub off if you bottom at the track with no damage to the car or track surface. Ours sat
about 1.25" off the ground... given, we have absolutely no front suspension travel to worry about.
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Fitting up the door net.
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Net looks good, what size is it and where did you get it. The tech guys was giving me a little grief last year on Amy's camaro. Gotta keep Sweet pea in one place ya know.
Frank
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Net looks good, what size is it and where did you get it.
Frank
Yeah, Fred what Frank said.
I need something like that for my Rampage too.
Gregg
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Stroud. I got it through Joe. Talk to him first to get the design particulars. I got the mounts from stroud too, but after seeing them I think I could have fabbed something as good or better for a fraction of the cost. But this being my first install I thought I better to see the official junk.
Fred
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Fred,
Kinda, sorta thought you would say that..... :-D I'll get in touch with Joe.
Thanks,
Gregg
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Thanks Fred, thats kinda what I thought as well. 'bout ready to give them a call. Howdy Gregg, Amy say's hi.
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got some updates...
so far I've been running a pretty much stock LQ4 6L with a street cam and forged pistons. It is putting out about 500hp (dyno tested).
This winter i scored some cnc ported heads and some T&D style valve train (sold under Comp Cams brand). Add in hi-output coils and a Quick Fuel carb. My engine builder thinks i could see somewhere around 600+hp with this junk.
The clutch i used up till now was a center force single disc but after the last meet i noticed it is not holding even with the 500 so i will need something stronger.
I want to go with a multidisc but don't know much about them. Ram has a setup that includes an aluminum flywheel for $1300. None of the manufactures go into much detail about power/torque capabilities except Ram dose state 950lb/ft torque. I will be safe with that ... unless i spray it.
Please feel free to add any ideas here.
Thanks
Fred
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We use a 7.25" triple disc QuarterMaster... has held 1000hp without issue. Not "cheap"
but you can get one used through Muscle Motorsports in Huntersville, NC for cheaper.
They take good pressure plate and intermediary plates and add new discs.
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Try PowerTrain Technology for multi-disc clutch and flywheel assemblies. Also not cheap, but, they have more friction material (and other) choices than Q'Master.
http://www.powertraintech.com/
Steve Fox is the owner of PT Tech, and can fix you up with any sort of custom application.
And BTW, Steve was formerly @ Q'M and the designer of all the trick Q'M clutch bits . . . . .
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Need a Fairbanks-Morse type FM-J4 mag. Any ideas?
Fred
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I would like to sell the monza. Contact me for details
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Due to life changes The Monza is going to be sold
Here is a link to some pictures
http://s629.photobucket.com/user/J-enifer/library/Elc/el%20camino/Monza?sort=3&postlogin=true&page=1
This car ran consistent 180s and is very stable. And, i might point out, it is the only car to ever run an exact 180.000 mph ... as far as i know! LOL... The front suspension has been modified and the chassis is lowered. right now it rides about 1 inch off the ground but that can be adjusted. There are too many mods to mention but i can tell you it is ready to go and will meet certification for speeds over 200 with a little updating of and inspections. The engine used is the LS family and at the moment we were using an LQ4 making right at 500hp. It is a good strong motor but is disassembled right now and i have parts to up the horsepower that include new heads and fuel system. It currently holds the record in C/CGC, is a smart looking ride with recent paint and new air dam and I have at least 15G invested so you cant go wrong!
We are asking 7 for the chassis and 5 for the engine. You can text Jenifer Jones for more details @ 864 680 4273
Ask Joe or Keith what they think of it.