Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => Build Diaries => Topic started by: oz on June 03, 2010, 02:21:09 PM
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Ah well I have had the best part of a year off and have unfortunatley had to comit to other things than the bike,,,, like working and learning to drive and other such things like making ends meet!!
But I have managed to just about get all the bits now to start playing again.
The bike has managed to make a long trip of about 20 yds into the garage today
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc215/ozcoatswith/P1000961.jpg)
Tommorow the head comes of with not too much trouble I hope,I designed the frame so it could be removed without taking the whole engine out.
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc215/ozcoatswith/P1000964.jpg)
so it will be pudding test time then.
and off for machining to accept the new throttle bodies amongst other things
101 Weeks till the boat leaves
TTFN Oz
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cool bike mate - ill give you a call this weekend now works calmed down a bit :cheers:
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Well Pudding proven everything went well and the top end can be stripped completley without removing the engine from the frame
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1000975.jpg)
first stage remove two one off shoulder bolts
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1000980.jpg)
undo all the sundries nos etc and try and seperate a severely corroded exhaust system
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1000974.jpg)
that wasnt tooo bad and clearance of the rocker cover and head wasnt a problem either
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1000984.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1000985.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1000995.jpg)
Looks weird all naked in the frame
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Injector pump relocated, one boss to blank off which is good as it can be used as a drain plug for transportation. There was a slight leak on one of the seams which will be rectified in the process of the relocation.
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010006.jpg)
Chain drilling is a pain but without a plasma it is a neseccity, I do have a trepanning tool but Icant clamp the tank without fouling the tool.
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010007.jpg)
Hole cut and filed... cool.
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010008.jpg)
Air Intake re design seems like this will be in the area of high pressure for the new airbox I hope
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010015.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010018.jpg)
looks like it is in the right region
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010019.jpg)
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had a bit of a result with the throttle bodies,It seems that the mounting rubbers are offset and if you cut them and swap from side to side the centres come very close to what I want,Just over 1mm away which is going to save alot of work.
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010022.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010024.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010027.jpg)
and the stella always helps with the creative thinking!!
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Yes, a few beers helps when it come to precise measurements,,, mmm looks close enough !!! :cheers: :cheers:
Keep up the good work.
Charles
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Gowd blimy !
A Brit that takes measurements in mm !
Oz; brilliant bike. Please keep us posted !
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LOL you know it!! if its got to be a little bit accurate its mm if its got to be more acurate its Thous if its speed its MPH if its directions its Yards if its hot its Farenhite when its cold its Celsius Jeez we are a mixed up bunch aint we!
While I am typing I have a question, The new ignition from the last build (Dynatek) is being ditched as i will be using a 36-1 timing wheel.
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010013.jpg)
if its usefull to anyone, he who shouts loudest gets it, it is a one off stator as far as i know good old MPS
I still have the old pick up from the original electronic ignition which used a steel fighting star kinda thing and a single pick up. which makes me think its magnetic pick up does anyone know if this will work with a 36-1 as it is small compact and i will be able to keep it all within the casing,Will it react quick enough as the old rotor only had 6 or 7 points what do you reckon?
Cheers Oz
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With just these simple tools I will now demonstrate how to make a Fuel Pump mounting boss
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010030.jpg)
Wizz the trepanning tool around at the slowest speed possible and remember to hold on two the pedastle drill in cas it wobbles itself out the door of the shed.
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010031.jpg)
Make a groove about 1.5mm deep in a kinda circle and then decide that the tool you are using is never ever going to go through 5mm steel plate,oh and remember ear plugs unless you love screaching squealing high frequency noise!!
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010035.jpg)
Chain drill another bit of steel and knock the centre out with a big hammer,Then repeat the operation for the outside circle.
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010036.jpg)
Pop a few holes through it in the appropriate places tap and counter bore to accept the heads of the bolts for plug welding and voila!
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010037.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010038.jpg)
Then its time for some really technical stuff I laugh in the face of CAD designers,,, well not really just a few dimensions for the new intake spigots
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010039.jpg)
CAD drawings done just need to source the ali
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010041.jpg)
Redundancy looms yet again so progress may have to slow down somewhat.
TTFN Oz
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New Intakes done for the front until the head has the new throttle bodies and airbox fitted
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010059.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010064.jpg)
Throttle mounting plate done
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010062.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010063.jpg)
And 36-1 timing wheel fitted,Kinda getting there!
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010055.jpg)
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I liked the method of making the groove, in order to drill the holes accurately. That's one I'll use, because it saves so much time hand filing. Usually I'd drawn a line, and then tried to get the holes on the line....which quickly taught me to make the circle smaller, drill the holes, and then hand file to the actual size.
This is a good site to learn stuff.
JimL
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Like all the hand stuff, team STD can relate. But the easy-off head frame is a bit of practical designing. Factories please take note.
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What Make/Model bike are the throttle bodies from?
I have a CBR1000F engine in a Drag Bike I would like to change to Fuel Injection.
JW
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JW Bodies are zx10r Kawasaki 2004/5 you have to cut the mounting rubber in half and reverse it then split the bank of four and space the two halves apart Bingo!! its there.
I can post the Cad drawings for the parts if you want them but I would wait for a week or two.
When they are fitted and working I could advise you on any pitfalls I come across.
Timing wheel is 2.5inches and goes straight in with the correct spacing for the original pick up,Again I will try it and see how it goes.
I have a friend who also runs a CBR Drag bike his has a Turbo setup and he holds the IOM Ramsey Sprint record for his class.
so if Richard Barks appears on this site he would be a good bloke to have a chin wag with!
Cheers Oz
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Unfortunatley the first revision of the new Inlet tracts failed miserably before getting of the starting blocks,I think i was trying to be too clever for my own good and almost ruined the good head I have the other two heads are mainly for spares and hopefully wont have to be used.
But with a couple of chats with an old friend who happens to own a lovely little machine shop the new inlets should be ready to be welded in and flowed by the time I get back from Italy.....I have to go away coz all you fellas will be on the salt enjoying yourselves I am going to go and drown myself in nastro azzuro and arabiata sauce yum yum!!
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To anyone whos interested in jumpin on the bandwagon and sharing the Ozco Doda Racings Container transport and logistics etc. for the 2012 Speedweek!
Wheatsheaf Leighton Buzzard Beds 18th of September @ 19.00 hrs onwards !!!
All the loonys from last time and some new prospective nut nuts will be getting together for a meet to decide who is doing and taking what and chew over costs etc.
If youre interested come along.
Get my new inlets soon I hope!!
Cheers Oz.
ps bring beer tokens.
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Bugger that's the same weekend as the hotrod drags
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Ah well never mind dude,there will be more.
You aint aiming to get out till 2013 though are you.
There are some very colourfull people going to be there and some very good guys to know!!
Next time maybe
Oz
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Bob Clancy I have an Email from you but cant find a return e mail the article will be ready soon,can you give me a direct address to send it to
Cheers Oz
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Ah well back to the drawing board had all the bits done and ready
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc215/ozcoatswith/100_0784.jpg)
Good to go set em up and everything looks good
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc215/ozcoatswith/100_0783.jpg)
Welded them in and everything looked good till I got them home, Checked them and its distorted the entire Head by 17 thou end to end.
So back to square one again.
or actually further back than I was when I started,*%$.
pissed off Oz
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I am going to get a couple of blocks of wood and try and get the distortion out on a fly press today,Its a bit of a cowboy way to do things but the head is scrap at the moment so the way I figure I aint got anything to lose!
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The fly press method worked a treat after forty or so minuits of squashing and turning and bending etc it is within 2thou end to end so well within tolerance.
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/Image0134.jpg)
Happy again so I assembled the bodies
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/Image0135.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/Image0136.jpg)
and dropped them of along with the head for a skim, re face on the injector plate,gas flow yada yada yada!
Cheers Oz
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We used to do a weld repair on Ford cylinder heads. I believe they were Escort and they used to crack between the valves. We did enough of them that we built a steel fixture to hold them while welding and then used a good solid preheat. That would keep them within tolerances so that they could be easily machined.
Pete
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I guess the important thing to check is if the cam tunnels are still true and the cams turn freely
G
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Oz, it might be a good idea to put that head in the kitchen oven and heat cycle it a few times to season it before assembly, and to recheck it again.
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yea Grumm
that was my main worry the cylinder side can be skimmed, that was the plan anyway but the cams like to be straight!
I put them in after we flattened it and they appear to be good.
I will re assemble when it comes back from the flowers hmmm i aint sure thats the right spelling and re check, they may need a bit of scraping out but as I say they look ok
you might have a point there Wobbly it would stress relieve it I suppose, the thing to do would be as peter says and bolt it to a plate and then heat it on a high heat along with the sunday roast yummy roast pork spuds fuel injected head yorkshire pudding and by the time I have finished dinner it should be cool enough to assemble, but seriously I think you are right.
Cheers Fellas Oz
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Good work Oz, and the idea of heat treating them (we used to call it "Normalising") is great. I've seen many an engine or cylinder head roasting away in an oven, but with the Sunday roast? Do you remember what you used to buy from the butchers when you were drunk, and when we shared a house & kitchen? My missus nearly fainted one Sunday when she opened the door and there was half a pig's head bubbling away.
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LOL Happy days, Get em while they are hot mmmmm!! lovely bit of a bummer when the brain drops on the floor though. I still think the foot pump and the beer was the best one though, A barrel of beer and no co2 a bit of creative pipe work and oila!! beer on tap it goes well with a nice roast head.
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Well after 3 months of phone calls and expectations I have a date for the completed head work.... end of January almost 4 and a 1/2 months after it was dropped off, the original time that was quoted was 3 weeks!
It seems that everything on this project has huge time delays,it was the nitrous on the original build,from injectors to the controller,then the gauge blowing itself up on the first run on the salt.
Ho hum never mind if it was easy and straight forward everyone would do it eh! hopefully the results will be worth it.
Have a merry Christmas everyone especially the ones that aint havin such a good time of things at the moment special wishes to Willie and Sheri
All the best Oz
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glad theres some movement mate - feel free to pop down some time for a garage beer over xmas / NY hols - ill be in there xmas day-n-all
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Oz, I am going to use the MEZ exhaust pipe length calculator http://www.mez.co.uk/mezporting/exhaust_length.html. It is one that I trust.
MEZ asks for cam timing data. We quote cam timing degrees based on 0.050 inch lift in America, most of the time. I vaguely recall the English customarily use another lift when they describe cam timing. Possibly 1 mm. George (MEZ) is dead, so I cannot ask him. Do you know what lift the English usually use when they describe cam timing? - Bo
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Hi Bo,
We use a variety, depending upon the cam maker;
1/ Zero lash opening point
2/ 50 thou lift
3/ Centre line on full lift
HTH
Neil
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Thanks. This is what I need to know.
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Phew,pleased someone else knew that one cheers Neil
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At Last the head is back its taken 41/2 months but the results are pretty darn good and the flow ratings are better than I could of ever imagined.
However the skim on the head should have been 15thou and for some reason, probably crossed wires it has ended up at 30thou so the copression is going to be alot higher than I had planned for.
Looks like the only fuel this will be drinking will be on the higher octane side of things or if that dont work maybe use bigger injectors and go methanol!
Exhaust new
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010079.jpg)
Inlet now
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010073.jpg)
Inlet before
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc215/ozcoatswith/P1000602.jpg)
Seats now
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010076.jpg)
Seats before
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc215/ozcoatswith/P1000600.jpg)
Reprofiled chamber now
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010080.jpg)
And before
(http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc215/ozcoatswith/P1000603.jpg)
The changes look quite subtle I reckon, barring the skim but the paperwork has shown huge improvments in the flow so now the work starts again pistons out and re pocketed re build and re wire the new ignition system in, and see what we get at the Dyno.
Cheers Oz.
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The rise in compression ratio might not be as great as it would seem. It looks like some metal was removed from the cylinder head around the valves when the combustion chambers were reshaped.
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Heres hoping Wobbly,
I think you are probably right as you cant really see in the pictures but he has relieved quite a bit of metal from around the valve area,he has also re cut the seats and back cut the valves so hopefully the pistons wont need too much modding on the pockets.
Cheers oz
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After the mess up on the welding of the head and the following distortion I was still a bit concerned that even after our brutal re leveling technique the cams may not be sit perfectly straight in the bearing faces.
I re assembled the head minus the valves and followers etc to see what the score was and lo and behold torqued up and fitted you can turn the cams by hand easily so thats at least one worry out of the way!
Cheers Oz
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Back again after another four month wait for piston modifications,well not strictly true a buddy who was going to modify the crowns / pockets etc. in a fortnight still has them so I bit the bullet and had another set made from scratch I just couldnt wait any longer.
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010109.jpg)
They arrived on Friday night along with rings and things so Saturday was spent in the garage with my mate Daf instead of in the pub.
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010117.jpg)
all went well and smooth
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010120.jpg)
and by about 4ish job done timed gapped the works
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010122.jpg)
yet another intake in the process
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010124.jpg)
so there is a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel but it could be someone with a torch and another delay time will tell.
ttfn Oz
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Chopped two zx10 airboxes and extended by 30mm and patched in using the number plate plastics of my cb13
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010135.jpg)
welded them together with a soldering iron
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010138.jpg)
and hey presto!!
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010139.jpg)
mounted the new box of tricks its nice to see things moving again!!
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010132.jpg)
Cheers Oz pub time again
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I aint happy with the bottom end it seems a little tight when rotating the crank.
There has been no mods in that area this time and I cant figure out why this should be the case. Maybe a touch of rust as it has been open for so long,It has been covered but you never know?
So full tear down as soon as the new gaskets arrive and rebuild again,Damm still its better to sort it now rather than later.
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It seems the bottom end is fine and the problem is with the cams!!
even though after the distortion from welding the head was removed and cams were turnable by hand there must be a bit of distortion left in there somewhere.
I think that is going to have to be stripped and line bored across the journals.
I have had no experiance of this process do cams need to be built up and re ground or new bearings let into the head or is it dependant on how much comes out of the journals.
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010143.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010144.jpg)
it only looks like it can be out by a couple of thou max but its enough to make it tight to turn over.
the alternative is cylindricaly grind the cams.
I really dont know the best option does anyone have any ideas on this.
Cheers Oz
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Years ago I had to fix a 20R Toyota head that "didn't have a replacement option" (desperate men do desperate deeds). I had to shim the caps on the center bearings (we punched holes in .002" gauges and used the bits for shims). I hand shaped the bottom of the end bearings with crocus cloth and a wood dowel.
Engine only ran another 100,000 miles, run hard in an old truck pulling firewood out of the Rockies.
JimL
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Are you sure that what you're feeling isn't in the followers or valves? Before doing anything radical with the cam or journals, I'd reassemble the engine, leaving out the cam followers, and see how it feels. I've been burned by things like that before.
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Ah good point I hadnt thought about trying it without the followers, Looks like thats todays job I will give it a try.
Cheers Oz
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Nope its the head so does anyone have any info on the line boring path.
Cheers Oz
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Nope its the head so does anyone have any info on the line boring path.
Cheers Oz
Are you certain that you didn't get the caps mixed up between journals, or one on backward? Is there any way to mount the cam, turn it, and determine which journal/journals are causing the binding. Tighten them all, then loosen one at a time till the cam turns freely. Maybe you could get away with "polishing" the offending areas with emery cloth to get it freed up. It is a race engine after all, not an endurance build, and it might tolerate a little extra clearance here and there.
It just dawned on me that the binding happened after you straightened the warped head from welding, so anything that you do needs to be done with the head torqued to the block to ensure that it is in running condition.
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Cam caps can only go on one way and the warpage seems to be front to back and only on no4cyl, I will make a few calls today and see what the score is on boring.
If its a no go its going to have to be the latter option bearing scraper and emery but there is alot of money and time invested in the head and cant afford to start again on another one if it goes pear shaped.
Cheers Oz
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Aint posted for a while been a very bad year so far I aint going to go on about it so!
Head is sorted and cam journals have been relieved,New or should I say another set of cams in there wiring almost done hmmm we will see on that I aint an expert and having to re work and suss out what somebody did over two years ago isnt easy but fingers crossed it will all work,only a few little bits to do on that.
I am using the old exhaust system from the original build to start with and maybe use the new system I bought with a few mods after the beast fires up again in the not too distant future i hope.heres a few pics check out the spaghetti/wiring
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/Photo0067-2.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/Photo0064-1.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/Photo0063.jpg)
Oh and these are the modified inlets much more in the flow than the original build.
Hopefully things will improve soon and I will still be able to make it to the salt in august!
Cheers Oz
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Nice job on the air inlets!!
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Pretty work. You might want to send a picture of those inlets to the bike impound director to make sure they aren't considered 'streamlining'.
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They are less streamlined than last time we ran it, it was mentioned but no problems.
I am only trying to beat the record as it stood 3and a bit years ago which is what i set out to do with this bike i really doubt whether it would get antwhere near the current record so there shouldnt be any arguments.
once this trip is done something a little bit more pokey might get somewhere near but in a different chassis etc or maybe continue with the jawa
aint decided just want this one to do what i originally set out to do anything over 168. whatever it was normally aspirated and then she can retire to the living room!
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It is nice to see you back on the forum. The bike can be entered in one of the partially streamlined classes of the scoops are a problem in the modified class.
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The last few bits have now been ordered and should be here this week,
A bit of body work to be done.
A relay fitted for the 5v Map activation.
Re fit tank and pipe up with a high pressure filter.
Pipe up Rad without header this time.
Fuel it.
And hit the start button.
If anyone is reading this from the Bedfordshire area and would like to check my wiring in case I blow the ECU itwould be much appreciated as you can tell i still aint that confident in the wirind dept.
Cheers Oz
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Hi Oz
Glad to read that you are still persevering with the project and reach your goal,will have to meet up again for a pint and a chat sometime and a Happy New Year to you and your family.
David
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Good to see your posts, again. Regarding wire-up worries for the ECU, here's my thoughts:
- grounds good, between everything
- under-fuse every circuit while first testing
- time; not much of it without cranking the starter. Some systems are a little prone to sinking the injector drivers before cranking over, something to do with the first fuel shot for startup. If it doesn't fire right away, and stay running, cut the power to the ECU quickly.
- time (also); if the ECU side of an injector is shorted to +B (battery power) the driver (big transistor) will tolerate it for a little bit, but not continuous. It'll be dead on that hole.
- tip: if the exhaust sound is sharp and hard, it's rich; if it's soft and "mutters", it's lean. Always trust the tone of the sound to tell you the truth. You'll also feel the sharp "shake" on start-up of rich cylinders (such as leaky injectors). If you get banging and whine sounds from the starter, it's trying to start too far advanced or miss-wired ignition primary circuits.
Best of luck!
JimL
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Good luck with the EFI Oz, good to see your back.
Cheers
Jon
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Damm Jim I wish you were a bit closer it sounds like you know a bit about this stuff,The ECU only has one fuse rated at 20 amps i think and the manufacturers say it is protected from wiring mistakes as long as the grounds are good... They are!!
I was thinking about starting with 10 amp fuse and see if it blows on switch on if all good wack the engine over on the starter and see how we get on.
Hi Jon you got those carbs on yet? Cheers for the V.B. Verrrry nice and direct from Brisbane it just dont get better than that mate,maybe bunderberg or red back next time and like I said anything I can do to help just drop me a line.
Oi Oi Rockstar you know it buddy I will pop up before this years trip for a beer or two and a chat think i might come in the motor this time dont want anymore mis haps with the bike, oh and i will grab the book next time you must have finished it by now bud!
Cheers all Oz
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No problem,just give us some notice so i can make sure i am not working.
Your book is safe and sound in it's original jiffy bag,and i have finished it 3 times,damm good read.
David
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The bank owns my butt again for another 3 years
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/15000-dollars-big.jpg)
I aint really got it sitting in front of me its just a picture, it dont look alot but it means the salt fix is definatley going to happen.
whoop whoop yee harr!
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I can see there's a bit of a problem -- in that you're showing us Uncle Sam's money and you live in the world of George Osborne. Other than that -- as my bike supplier keeps telling me -- you need blinders, Oz -- to keep you focused on the end of the journey, not the side tracks (like paying it all back). :roll:
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LOL if I didnt have blinkers on I reckon I might have started looking for a cheeper hobby, ah who the hell am I kidding theres only ever going to be one hobby or is it an addiction!!!
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Carbs are sitting in a box under the bench thanks Oz, glad the VB still worked ok upside down, hope you didn't drink it warm :)
You running custom cams? I haven't really looked into engine parts much as will run it fairly standard first year to makes sure eveything works ok.
So of to the salt this year?
Cheers
Jon
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You know us Pommies Jon I had to warm it up to room temperature in the microwave before I could drink it.
Stock cams on slotted pulleys, It runs Nitrous so dont want too much overlap for blow past and cant go too much on lift because of high comp so duration would be my only option really.
I may have a set of Forged pistons coming up soon unless I decide to lower the comp and go blown next time if you need some bud.
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I got a little further this weekend, The airbox is piped in the Nitrous system all works fine it turns over on the button without blowing fuses on the ignition system so all is looking good.I still have the MAP sensor to wire and plumb into the airbox a blanking plug for the fuel tank to source and the crank pick up to wire into the ECU and it should fingers crossed touch wood yadda yadda yadda start up next weekend maybe!!!
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/Photo0077.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/Photo0075.jpg)
Heres hoping Oz
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Looks good. Tell is what happens or have someone make a video. The first start up can be a thriller.
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Good luck with the start up Oz.
Hopefully the smoke comes out of all the bits that is meant to and nothing it's not.
Are you running MAP sensor off a single inlet or manifolding them together.
I was going tee mine together initially but now going to just run into one for less stuff to go wrong.
Cheers
Jon
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The throttle bodies had a loom of pipes kinda thing that all fed into one tube which the kwak used for its MAP sensor so i will just use that I reckon
they spend millions developing that kinda thing so if its good for them its good for me.
Cheers oz
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Get it fired up Oz?
Keen to hear how your EFI convesion goes.
If the pistons end up being spare I would be interested, what compression ratio roughly?
If you have a head laying around could you measure the valves please?
Cheers
Jon
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Inlet 32
Ex 27
Pistons are stock compression but rings are moved down slightly to make the crowns stronger for the nitrous shot.
only been used for a half dozen runs there is some marks on the skirts though.
Oz
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It Coughed today its almost alive again, Having a few problems getting the ECU to talk to the laptop but I think it needs a driver for the comms cable which I will sort through the week.
Video to follow when it springs into life "almost dyno time".
Cheers Oz
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Good man, keep the faith :wink:
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Good luck on the dyno run Oz.
Are you running a USB to serial converter?, I've found them a rear PITA.
I ended up buying an old ex miltary laptop with a serial port from eBay & run it on Windows 2000.
Not fast but very stable & outside/workshop friendly.
Thanks for the valve info.
I will email you about pistons later, 3 weeks ago we decided to put the motor back in the original frame & my son is going to run it @ Lake Gairdner in 4 weeks time, not much streamliner work happening.
jon
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I got to talk to the ECU today god knows what its saying to me i reckon I have to learn how to speak ecusian.
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/camtry1.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/camtry2.jpg)
I dont know if i am getting a clean signal from the crank sensor or what I will get my headaround it though,
Cheers Oz
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I got hold of a Babel fish today apparently i can speak ECUsian cleaned up the signal and it spoke/Ran for a few seconds before it blew the throttle bodies off, but good start the sandancer lives again!!
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OI 3pm posting on here, get back to work chopchop :-D well done Oz
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Dr Frankenstein has the same problems. Monsters do not spring to life all at once. There is some drama to the deal.
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Just spent another 4 hours re routing wiring to try and clean the signal up a bit more and wouldnt you know it back to square one filthy useless signal
Arghh and a crap day at work to boot someones gona get it tomorow!!!
Wont get another oportunity for over a week to get any major time on it.
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Oz - Do this the same way that some one eats an elephant. One bite at a time.
Joe
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Finished eating the Elephant tonight it runs sweet Cheers Adz the new shielded worked a treat I also found a few loose connections on the starer system which was probably not helping.
Body work and dyno next all good again,phew!!
Oz
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Congratulations Oz, thought you said you didn't do that electrickery stuff :-)
What bodywork are you doing?
Going partial streamlined or staying naked?
jon
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Hi Jon
New dummy tank/cover for the airbox and new tail section something a bit more aerodynamic,but yup staying naked as nature/technology intended,
your streamliner looks real good fella when you doin a build diary.
Oz
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Thanks Oz, good luck on the Dyno, like your EFI, is your NO2 still variable or staged?
See you posted on Dave's thread that you hadnt done any fibreglass work Oz, the Streamliner plug is the 2nd fibreglass job ive ever done.
The first one was a model at school which caught on fire, bit too much hardener i think :|
Might kick off a build thread after we get back from Lake Gairdner and i get going on it again.
There's nothing much to look at currently, parts that i have bought and made, and a buildtable with a ellipses set up on it to mock stuff up inside.
The CDS tubing for my frame turned up the day after Dave and I decided to throw a M-G bike together for him.
jon
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its Variable I run a shnitz pnc setup easy to work with and real reliable so far
I have it jetted for 120hp but can turn it down on the controller.
I dont think I have time to learn the glass work in time this year might have to give it a go though.
Cheers Oz
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Unfortunatley work and other commitments have slowed things up a little but still managing to do a bit here and there,two new revised side panels!!
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010147.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010146.jpg)
Makes access to fuses a bit easier than the last one.
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010149.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010148.jpg)
We had a few issues with the small battery flattening if not used for a while and removing the bodywork is tedious so auxilliary battery input so no more removal of bodywork for jump leads.
Cheers Oz
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Oz, the mechanic who fixed my electrics installed a new Deka ETX12 sealed gel battery in the Triumph. Up until then I used premium lead acid batteries. The Deka holds a charge for much longer periods of time and it does not go flat as quick if the bike has been sitting and is hard to start. It is a definite improvement.
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Hi Wobbly
It is a top line Gel battery but it should be a higher AMP hour for the stock engine but space for it is at a premium,With the extra compression and all the other gizmos running in the background it struggles till it is running I reckon.
Cheers Oz
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Hi OZ
If your having problems still finding a strong enough battery that's really small try googling Ripperton Batteries. If you look in my build I have one mounted on the tail of my bike it's really small and very light. It starts my bike and my ducati just fine.
If you search around on YouTube you will find a few videos of the guy who makes them starting a 4ltr 6 cylinder car with the same batteries.
Hope it helps :-D
Dave
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Nice one cheers Davie will do!
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Hi OZ
If your having problems still finding a strong enough battery that's really small try googling Ripperton Batteries. If you look in my build I have one mounted on the tail of my bike it's really small and very light. It starts my bike and my ducati just fine.
If you search around on YouTube you will find a few videos of the guy who makes them starting a 4ltr 6 cylinder car with the same batteries.
Hope it helps :-D
Dave
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1tfL8lon9k&feature=youtube_gdata_player
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Got things moving again and managed to do some bits at work in erm overtime!!
Dummy tank started by rolling a bit of 3mm ali erm scrap and bending a flange on one end.
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010158.jpg)
and trimmed to suit the profile of new airbox with the plasma and tidied up with the grinder
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010159.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010161.jpg)
I made a bracket for the front to come of the exsisting brackets and secured front of cover
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010162.jpg)
or Jamie did sure he should be working on production!!!
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010166.jpg)
Made side pieces and welded in
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010171.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010174.jpg)
Sanded and DAed them
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010176.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010177.jpg)
And fitted switches
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010160.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010179.jpg)
I dont really like the look of it I reckon its fugly but function before form on this occasion and still allows you to get
right in tight against it with no elbows or anything poking out.
Cheers Oz
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Great work as always Oz, is the eye staying?
Cheers
jon
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Blew the froth of a few last night with best buddy Lee as you would say and he has come up with some blinding designs for paintwork.
It appears the Eye is staying.
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Not happy with tail piece modify it 2moro but basis is there all 10 component parts awkward shape to get right.
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010205.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010210.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010213.jpg)
I thought I might drop the sides down a bit and bring out slightly, any ideas appreciated as I reckon its dog ugly,aero ok across top I reckon sides????
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Oz, you may or may not be happy with what you've wrought but believe me you're dazzling the onlookers. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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I like it ... Joe
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Would look better if it was painted red though ...
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Nice Oz, you clever old tin basher, got any anvils spare :wink:
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Bring the sides down to the legal limit, it will help. Running naked you need all the help you can get.
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Your younger than I pictured Oz :)
Had you thought of continuing the curved line of your back down and closing in down to the rim line.
I know you like to ride naked but the rules give you some liberties in the tail area that might help get those extra couple mph that we're all looking for.
I can't remember if you have electrickery happening in there?
That a CBR front guard?, the original 1000f guard looks reasonably aero.
It's going to look awesome in colour.
jon
Fredvance beat me too it, what he said.
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LOL thats my Son he is 24 the guard and forks are of a later model F shame coz earlier ones had better aero.
Had another go today and extended a bit! Its starting to get heavy which aint a problem but I could triangulate and make in one.
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010215.jpg)
I still think it looks like it could come down further for regs, but angles and chain run anderson plug fuses etc are problomatic to say the least
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010217.jpg)
I still aint settled with it the rear is shabby too
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010214.jpg)
Thanks Fred dont I know it!!
When we gona see the new project Joe?
Cheers fellas Oz
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I have the frame tubing cut, bent and tacked up ... My son will do the tig welding next week ... I will post some photos ... Joe
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mk 4 done and I am happy wqith it this time
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010221.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/06042012299.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/06042012296.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010242.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010236.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010227.jpg)
Dyno next saturday and voila!!
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Looks good. Now you have to polish it.
Joe
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Looks the goods Oz, the eye theme continuing onto the tail? What was the speedparts sticker with the woodpecker smoking a cigar?
Dyno next Saturday is getting to the business end of it, good luck with it.
Cheers
jon
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That popped into my head too Jon it was Clay Smith Cams!!
Polished nah! i am still finding rusty bits from last outing and the odd bit of salt here and there and I have never been big on polishing.
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Nice artwork by Lee Worvell I think I am going to go with this lurvvv it
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/eyedone.jpg)
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Nice, looks like some crazy crow, it getting tailfeathers?
Much to do before dyno time or you been roadtesting again? :)
jon
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Luv it:-D ccmf
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Hope the bike makes good horsepower on Saturday
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Good luck on the dyno Oz.
jon
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Unfortunatley all this Fuel injection Bollocks being so much easier to set up than carbs is a load of Carp(anag) cant even get the map to alter or map change to lambda settings or tps or all these other technical terms, Batch fire Semi Sequential Whatever Jeeze Beer Oclock !!!!!!!!! :cry:
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You aint kidding Oz.
4 weeks of tedious laptop headbanging and we've only just got the ignition working right. :roll:
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Want me to send more VB Oz?
What brand of ECU?
jon
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LOL I was just thinking I am never going to drink again!!!!
Its a DTA S40 pro if you know anyone with a sucsesfull map.I have ordered an adjustable fuel pressure regulator even though the system is all zx10 I think there must be something missing from the setup and i am just getting tooo much fuel
Cheers Oz
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Good luck getting it straightened out Oz. I have enjoyed the he!! out of your two build threads. :cheers:
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I have never come across bore wash syndrome before but from the over fueling last week I now have mirror finished bores,compression is down from 130psi cold to around 30-90psi warm
so stripped again re hone bores re ring re assemble and re try!!!!
all in all a bit of a downer as still no proper dyno results but the fuelling is ok now.
cheers Oz
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That's a shit.
The ECU communication ok now?
I guess one upside is that your frame design let's you do this without pulling the motor.
Cheers
jon
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125 125 120 130 stone cold and not run in phew had me worried,try firing 2moro dyno again saturday!!!
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Oz, wait until after the dyno run to draw any conclusions about compression. Sometimes it takes some pressure in the combustion chamber to seat the rings. Pay attention to horsepower. It should rise when the rings bed in.
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Hi Wobbly
that is PSI.per Cylinder cold after re honing and new rings.I am hoping for higher HP results than that "I hope"
Cheers Oz
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Usually I do a compression check on the bench immediately after building an engine to make sure I put it together right. Usually the initial readings are pretty close to what they will be after the rings seat, but not always. The readings you posted are similar to what I have seen on some engines. Usually mine are over 200 psi and fairly uniform among the different cylinders after running on the dyno. It depends on the cam. A hot cam lowers the cranking compression a little bit.
My typical practice is to use Union 76 10-40 basic quality mineral oil with Red Line break in additive at first. Racing oils are used after that.
The horsepower will increase when the rings seat. It is only a few horsepower more for the little bike motors I work with.
Your readings are similar among the cylinders - this is good. Some compression gages read high or low. Try another gage. Check your intake cam timing if the readings do not rise to the expected levels.
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All sorted now! Dyno results are to say the least not what I had hoped for but I have learnt loads on this build and will be on the salt having a great time this forthcoming speedweek,I wont be breaking any records but it aint all about that and the next project is already bubbling away in the deep dark recesses of my head.
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Bummer Oz, might have to make room for a bigger NO2 bottle.
Like you said, you will have a good time, how long until the bikes leave?
Cheers
jon
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It is good to see that your motor is sorted and you are headed over here for speedweek. Do not feel bad about not getting all the horsepower you want at the beginning. This LSR is difficult. It takes lots of fiddling with different things to get the power.
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All done and dusted so just gave it a try on the ozco patent transport skid and it fits lovely only 5 weeks till it ships and 10 weeks till we fly out cant wait!!!
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010249-1.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010248.jpg)
(http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll140/oz110364/P1010247.jpg)
See you on the salt.
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Ozco-branded stuff looks fine from here. :cheers: Are the springs compressed as much as they look - or is the bike that low? I'm wondering if you'll suffer some long-term effects of having the shocks and springs at full squish for the weeks it'll take from when you button it up to when it's back on the ground.
We'll see you on the salt!
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They are down just over half way, And the bike is very low about 3" at the lowest point I reckon the springs will be ok its been strapped on the bike lift for over a year like that with no noticeable problems......I hope they will be ok Damm dont want to start worrying about more stuff now! 8-)
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Back in the early '70s I helped to introduce the ANKRA strap system to the MC dealers in Wisconsin. A big help for long-distance travel is to place a block of soft wood (pine) or a firm block of extruded foam beneath the motor/frame and then compress the bike with straps. This wil prevent the bounce-effect when traveling as well as assure the suspension will only be compressed by no more than half. Another way of doing this is to insert a length of 2 x 4 between the lower tree and the front tire. If you use a modern roll-over front-wheel chock, the most important straps are placed near the rear suspension and pull FORWARD at an outward angle. I have hauled dozens of bikes (sometimes 8 or 9 in a trailer) from Utah to Wisconsin to Alabama and have yet to lose one.
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Looking good Oz
Looks like the frame does more than just transport with the extra bits sticking up each end?
Cheers
Jon
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Your bike made it into street fighter magazine!
we get it a little late here in aus but we do get it.
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Street Fighter ... what month?
Joe
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Im not too sure what month, we get them a bit late over here.
it was in the front of the magazine in the bottom corner with a bit of a story about how the guys from the UK were going to the states to race at Bonneville and a photo of Oz's bike with a few others.
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Has anyone got a copy ? does it read ok i didnt even know it was being featured off to the shops to try and find a copy!!
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Ill be flying home on the 4th of december, once im home ill post my copy to you :-D
Its nothing big, just a little pic in the corner of one page and some info about you guys going over to race.
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I back ordered issue 224 October i reckon that will be the one,no need to post it over If you could check to see which issue it is I will order it if that aint the one, the postage is horendous from Aus but nice one Cheers Davie!!