Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => Build Diaries => Topic started by: Fordrat31 on March 16, 2010, 08:28:50 AM
-
Hello everyone, My name is Mike.
I figured it was about time I post some pictures of my build on here. I have been interested in pretty much anything that moves and makes alot of nosie since I was young. (still pretty young..22 years old) When I graduated college I got a great job, this left me with a little extra change in my pocket. So I decided to build myself a Lakester.
So over the past 6 or so months I have been building what you see here. I plan to run the car in the V4F class. I am not trying to be competive my first time out to the salt, If I got the car to do 100mph I would be very happy. My goal was to have it ready for this years speed week but I dont see that happening now. There is just so much more to do and not enough time.
Well here are a few pics of my current progress.
-
I tried to post a few pics of my earlier progress but I must have had my camera set to take the wrong size pictures. It tells me the files are too large. Anyway here are a few more of my current progress.
-
Great Mike. Keep us posted. What part of the planet are you on? Wayno
-
Cool project.
Mike, if you don't get it completed in time for Speed Week, it still might be a good idea to have it inspected at tech as is, at El Mirage or Bonneville, just to ensure that you are on the right track, assuming you are not too far from either.
What are your plans with the engine?
Scott
-
I'm from Massachusetts. I will have quite the drive ahead of me when I finally get the car done!
The engine will be a 29 Model A block. Conterweighted crank, full pressure oil system, wico mag, big cam....
-
Excellent! Real hot rods are flathead fours!!!
Mike
-
your front hoop on your roll cage looks way too straight up and down to be legal... it needs to be layed back at least 110 degrees. other than that it looks awesome! looks like the one me an my dad are building lol
-
your front hoop on your roll cage looks way too straight up and down to be legal... it needs to be layed back at least 110 degrees. other than that it looks awesome! looks like the one me an my dad are building lol
I met you at Hot Rod Steves LSR night in Jan. I have been talking with your father alot about our builds
-
Ford: CTRon maybe a little off on that front bar being incorrect. In the past and still currently as far as I know as long as the bar mounts directly to the main frame rails as your looks to do the bar maybe more verticle. Shoulder mounted bars on a tube chassis have different specs than main frame chassis. You will be obvoiusly adding more front support bars to stiffen and support the front and keep your arms within the cage structure.
I would send pics to the SCTA Chief Inspector,Steve Davies for clarification. Looks good and Good Luck...
-
Ford: CTRon maybe a little off on that front bar being incorrect. In the past and still currently as far as I know as long as the bar mounts directly to the main frame rails as your looks to do the bar maybe more verticle. Shoulder mounted bars on a tube chassis have different specs than main frame chassis. You will be obvoiusly adding more front support bars to stiffen and support the front and keep your arms within the cage structure.
I would send pics to the SCTA Chief Inspector,Steve Davies for clarification. Looks good and Good Luck...
Its funny that you should bring that up. I have talked to Kiwi Steve about this issue a few times, and he told me that the front bar needs to be at 120 degrees or 30 degrees from vertical. I was curious as to why this was so I asked a few people on the HAMB for and explanation. One of the guys on the HAMB came and posted this same question here on this forum. It under Bonneville rules (roll bar angle) It seems as if this is a conflicting subject.
-
Would someone please tell me where to find any reference in the rule book of an angle of the front roll bar tube?
Thank you.
harv
-
Good on you Mike, you go for it! Our sport needs new blood like you. We went through a period a few years ago where it looked like interest was falling off but it seems to have come alive again. Us ol farts still see the world through 22yr old eyes but our chassis are getting a little rusty. Sid.
-
What kind of tank are you using ? It appears to be metal.
Jack
-
Would someone please tell me where to find any reference in the rule book of an angle of the front roll bar tube?
Thank you.
harv
In the SCTA rule book there is no mention.
What kind of tank are you using ? It appears to be metal.
Jack
To the best of my knowlage the tank is from from a Navy Hellcat. Its 13'6" long and 32" at its widest point.
-
yea its actually in the ecta rule book as 110 degrees. scta doesnt specify. go figure..
-
I believe Joe Timney was one of the founders of ECTA and being a chassis builder (Delaware Chassis Works) would see the need to angle that front loop. The SCTA would no doubt be conscience of that but it's possible that one of the old roadster boy's (bless their souls) has a car with a upright front bar and is sort of grandfathered in. No big deal unless it causes some injury.
CTRon
you said:" go figure".
-
This topic should probly be combined with the other.
The 110 ECTA angle in my senile mind seems to translate to 20 degrees from vertical (straight up and down) like the SFI specs.
-
Well it sure has been a long time since I have made an update here so I figured I should get on that. I had to put the car aside for about a year untill I was able to get settled in at my new shop. Once I finally got back to it I decided that I needed to tackle the roll cage and get that finished up. I completly re-designed the hoops, shortned its stance, and laid back the front hoop to 122 degrees to comply with the rule book.
Everyone I have contacted so far about the cage has approved.
-
One more pic.
-
Good to see you are able to get back on the build again. Shop looks good, plenty of elbow room!
Life stuff has had us in a bit of build hibernation as well, should be back at it soon. Will send you an email when we are.
Ed
-
Definitely looks a lot better down there & it'll be a bunch slipperier too.
Your wall is looking a little Burt-ish there mate!
Sid.
-
I am really glad I was forced to go back and re-do the cage, I think it has a much better design now. Hahaha yea I might have took a few ideas from Burt, I needed somthing to hang up there!
-
cage looks way better....
When you're building these things there is no right ...but there are heaps of wrongs.
If there was a right most of "us" wouldn't be interested in them.
Bunch of door-slammer guys scratching their heads right now. :wink:
-
You're right Goggs, Ya see a few people that can take a tank & ugly the crap out of it. Sitting up on a kitchen chair surrounded by a pile of monkey bars is a sure way to get there.
Building a tank is a whole different experience, if ya haven't gone there ya just can't know. Everything else gets built & then ya hang a body on it. A tank is more like building a house in a cave. When I built mine, I had a new respect for those who had gone before me.
Maybe we should put a "Tank" register together, seeing that we are such a screwed up.... I mean different bunch!
Sid.
-
Well I had a good amount of time to work on the car over the winter and I took full advantage of it. First on my list was to change the rear end mounting, my original design just wasn't up to par. The new design triangulates the rear and make it much stronger. With the rear mounted in its new home I finished up my final mounting brackets for the transmission. After 3 different transmission choices I finally decided on a three speed side shift, using a Clings adapter.
I also got the chance to fit the top half of the tank. When it was all said and done I ended up with 9.5 inches of cage sticking out the top of the tank. This should work perfect for making a fairing, and keeping it as low as possible. Once the tops half of the tank was mounted I decided to build a water/fuel tank. The water and fuel tanks will be two separate tanks but placed next to each other to make it look like one tank. I started with a insulation foam mold then build the final tank for 1/8" aluminum sheet. If my calculations are correct the water tank should hold 14 gallons and the fuel tank 3. This will put approx. 125lbs directly over the rear end.
-
I am trying to post a few pictures but for some reason it is being extremely difficult.
-
More
-
Few more.
-
Hey
That's a good looking tank
Nice work
G
-
You're right Goggs, Ya see a few people that can take a tank & ugly the crap out of it. Sitting up on a kitchen chair surrounded by a pile of monkey bars is a sure way to get there.
Building a tank is a whole different experience, if ya haven't gone there ya just can't know. Everything else gets built & then ya hang a body on it. A tank is more like building a house in a cave. When I built mine, I had a new respect for those who had gone before me.
Maybe we should put a "Tank" register together, seeing that we are such a screwed up.... I mean different bunch!
Sid.
Sitting up on a kitchen chair surrounded by a pile of monkey bars is a sure way to get there.
you're a genius Sid.
Hey Drat,nice tank .....aaaaaaand we do have a tanks only place....I have been a little negligent, but it's there...
http://www.dlra.org.au/forum/viewforum.php?f=19&sid=5a9a3d6d239bed2a50d8bdcb8565519a
you'll need to register for the DLRA forum to get access but it is for the people who get tanks and tank stuff. Like being a musician, then being a country musician,then having to explain to other country musicians what you're into....well us bellytank guys are into um..... well yeah we're into lakesters but really we're into BELLYTANKS :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:
-
Thanks a lot guys! People have told me from the start of this project that there is a lot to be said for a car that looks as well as it preforms. I tried to keep that in my mind throughout the build.
-
Looking great! that new side profile is bitchin!
-
Yeah!!! You're looking badass now Mike. :cheers:
Sid.