Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => Build Diaries => Topic started by: Skip Pipes on September 18, 2009, 02:34:56 AM
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Hello All,
Skip Pipes here.
I live in Huntington Beach, California and I’m in the process of building a Blown Fuel Roadster. I’ve posted a bit in the past, but now it’s time to start a build diary. I’ve waited a bit to post this project as I wanted something to show, rather than talk theory. I call this adventure “Skip’s Thing” after a conversation I had with my wife’s friend, who declared; what’s that “Thing” you’re building? So there you have it; I figure if Jonny can have “Hotnuts”, I can have a “Thing.”
I’ve spent many years hanging out at El Mirage and been fortunate enough to meet numerous So-Cal roadster owners (all really nice, helpful people). From them I’ve taken a lot of ideas and inspiration, but the Wilson & Waters #369 and Brauer & Sons #716 are the two that I’ve stolen the best ideas from (as I’ve no shame).
Well, my roadster going to be a primitive “Garage Built” deal for a rookie driver (me). I think it has a personality all its own and after viewing the build you’ll likely say; hey, you started one way and now you’re going a different direction. Yep, that’s the benefit or hazard if you will of a car with personality, as well as one guy driving the project (and designing on the fly). Surely you’ll see more dirt track Sprint Car influence vs Drag Racing as my background is in Midget Car Racing.
I also like/admire Sumner’s work and copied his idea for a build platform to get the car up to a workable 18” in height (read that seat high), sort of a combination poor man’s build table and back saver. Also you might also notice my 2 car garage is sort of congested; I assure you I know where everything is, one I find it (I like a controlled mess). As I’m fond of 29 Ford roadsters I’ll be using a Poly-Form body, which I’ve got mocked up on the frame rails.
Some of the details:
• Poli-Form 29 body with tonneau cover and 32 grill shell
• 2” x 6” x .125” main rails, pinched and tapered
• 1 5/8 x .134” DOM roll cage and frame structure
• Coil over front suspension, tucked inside grill shell
• 5” od rear springs with weight jacker, ala circle track
• 4 link rear and 4 bar front
• Quick-Change, TBD
• M/T Tires 24” front, 30” rear
• Built to take a Hemi or Big and Small Chevy – all have seen time between the rails.
I’m a big guy (6.1”) and need all the room I can get so following current trends I’ve shifted the seat to alongside the driveshaft and dropped it as low as possible. I’ll also shift the rear axle the opposite direction 4” ala Wilson & Waters #369 roadster. I’m also thinking of moving the engine (Big Block Chevy) over 2”
Should be a fun project until the money runs out!
Thanks All – Skip
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No splinter jokes! Here’s the chassis mock-up on build platform.
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I mentioned the rails were tapered and pinched. Once I opened them up I placed spacers to stiffen the rail and hold down some of the inevitable distortion. Normally I cap the rails with flat bar, but this time I reused the cut away. Here are some shots of how I did it.
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There’s simplicity in using a wooden platform in that you can mark/draw on it, so that’s exactly what I did. I traced an outline of the body on the platform to set the frame width. Then I set the wheelbase and mocked up the suspension. Sounds easy; however, there was a lot of looking at parts, pictures of other roadsters and shifting to get something that looked workable. Let me tell you, everything eventually changed as the car progressed. I now work on the premise that I’ll build the first part for mock-up, the 2nd part to finalize concept and placement, and the final part after the car tells me what it wants. That’s why if you’ll notice a progression of changes, modifications as the car evolves.
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I decided to go with a Kirkey 20 deg layback seat and you’ll notice I set the seat off to the driver’s side as far as I thought I could go and still get the 4-link past. Here are some shots of the seat mountings, front, side and rear. I’ll also tie the seat into the roll cage structure behind the headrest area. Additionally, I’ll mount Kirkey shoulder supports.
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For the front suspension I built a 3” x 2” tower with ½” id sleeves to hold coil-over’s tucked inside the grill shell. It’s force of habit from my circle track days and probably unnecessary, however I built adjustable slider mounts for the coil-over’s to compensate for major tire diameter adjustments.
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Congrats on the "thing"
I heard Huntington Beech was overrun with the bad crowds :wink:
Is tit and Tank still fighting along side Kimo?
John
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Thanks for sharing your project Skip. I enjoy seeing the fabrication involved. Best of luck!
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Here are the tower pieces and my trademark (messy) organizational skills on display. The shocks are double adjustable QA1’s with custom shock valving. I’m theorizing that the valving will allow the front end to settle and hold it down as it has a very aggressive rebound.
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Next up is what I call the middle tower. It’s where the step pan/firewall will start and it’s a combination of 2” x 2” and 1-5/8” roll cage material. I’m using a mounting plate that bolts into the tower and is sandwiched between the bell housing and the trans. I’m fond of ridged frames from the circle track days and so the middle tower is tabbed to take a bolt-in down tube arrangement that ties it to the front tower.
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The rear section of the car is as robust as the rest, if not more so! In the rear I used 2” x 3” to form the rear risers. Most of the cars I’ve studied go with kick-ups over the rear axle. I wanted something lower, so I just continued the rails under the axle and tied them together with another tower-like structure.
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I took some council from JD and installed a Howe steering quickener, backwards, to slow the steering, rather than speed it up.
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Here are some shots of the cage going together. This brings the car up close to its current state and I’ll work on posting the brake pedal set-up over the weekend.
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Skip;
I'm in Costa Mesa and building a '34 gas roadster. Call me if you need any help.
John
714-427-0835
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Looks great, you sure did a lot in one day. :-o :-D :-D
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bvillercr
Yep, It's easy to post 12 months worth of work in a day! Really I think I'm working in Dog Years here as everything takes me 7 times longer (and expensive) than I think it should. I've got friends that have busted out complete race cars in under 6 months, simply amazing!
Here's the promised update on the brake & clutch pedals>
I originally intended to use a Wilwood hanging brake & clutch pedal assembly; however, as it all seems too common with this project, I had to rethink my options as I ran out of room. The pedal assemblies placed the hydraulics in front of the pedals and the added length pushed the pedals back too far into the cockpit. What I really needed was a reverse mount set-up with the hydraulics pointing toward the driver. I looked for a suitable replacement, but didn’t find one. So I scrapped the mounts I'd created for the Wilwood units and commenced to make myself a set of reverse mount pedals. Here’s some pics of the pieces and the finished unit tacked into the car. I know some roadsters only run a hand brake; however I spent a lot of time on dirt and like the confidence in knowing that if I need to, I can stand on a brake pedal.
Thanks - Skip
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Brake & Clutch tacked into the car.
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Looks Good Man, Keep up the great work. Tim
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I like it Skip! ....want to come by and see it...give me a call...Rob has my cell, if you don't.
JimL
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Brake & clutch pedal are complete so it's time for a gas pedal. True to form it was easier to make one than adapt and existing unit. The pedal is made from some extra 3/4” tubing and 1/8” sheet stock. I drilled holes in the pedal and used a center punch to raise the hole for traction. I haven’t yet added a pedal strap, but will do so later after making sure it accommodates my racing shoes. I’m hanging the pivot for the pedal from the brake & clutch assembly as I believe this will give me a long, smooth pedal action for the throttle.
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Here are some pics of my secondary flooring which is 3/16 inch aluminum plate. Each piece bolts in from above the step pan and to add additional weight I left space to sandwich in 3/4 inch steel plate.
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Have you ever had a problem with a tape measure? Seems like the cheap help I’m using (me) can’t measure correctly, so I had to remake the rear crossmember. All’s well now as I was able to revise my rear spring placement inward 1 inch, which freed up some needed space for the rear 4-link.
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Skip, when a guy's doing really nice work like you are, every once in a while you've got to do one of those just to keep you humble. We all do it, few of us admit to it.
Keep up the great work and keep posting pictures.
Pete
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True to form it was easier to make one than adapt and existing unit.
Gospel! :wink:
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Skip --
You might need to space the pedals apart a little -- especially if you're using the bulky "funny car" boots. Just a thot . . .
Stan
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Peter
The older I get, the easier it is to find the time to go back and undo a mistake, before it turns complicated.
Stan,
Yea, I’ve been fretting about the pedal spacing and coming from a roadster guy I’m sure you speak from experience. The good part is I can trim the pedal bushing and space it either way. I’ve got shoes left over from when I raced midgets (add jokes here) however I need the SFI-15 boots to set final spacing.
Thanks - Skip
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I thought I needed so additional capacity to add weight to the car. Could have just relied on my lead butt for rear weight, but I fab’d up some weight bars that go under the seat and run side to side. They're just capped tubing with tabs that will bolt to the frame rails. I'll fill them with lead shot.
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I thought I needed so additional cockpit triangulation (to add roll cage structure stiffness and tie the right side top rail to the cockpit top rail) so I fab’d up this piece. It unbolts for removal to give access to the water tank and dry sump tank.
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I also thought I could use some shoulder protection, so I picked up these Kirkey pieces that are recommended for my Kirkey 20 deg layback seat. Instead of bolting them to the seat I rotated them forward to run parallel to the cage and then added mounts to the cage. They limit side to side rocking, although will still “give” if called to do so (hopefully not).
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For body mounting I always planned to bolt/clamp the body to the top of the frame. Usually I make a threaded spud and weld it in but recently found these nifty threaded pieces from McMaster Carr. They were too inexpensive to pass up and as you can see worked really well. I’ll be using these again. I made the clamping plates from 3/16 inch flat bar.
I’m in the process of finish welding the cage and then it’s on to making the trans mount, shifter mount and water & fuel tank. As this is a blown/fuel motor I’m thinking 25 gallon on the water tank and 15 gal for fuel. I’ve got a “Chiller” intercooler for the 8-71 blower and will need to fab an intercooler tank; was thinking 15 gal water/ice would do. However, Blower/engine guru says “Chiller” not necessary with fuel, but absolutely necessary with gas. Any thoughts?
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Skip:
Think carefully about the weight of those ballast bars and then the size of the brackets and bolts holding them in along with the single shear mounting. I might be considering either stronger mounting considering they're riding right with the driver or some secondary retention system. Just my suggestion. The car's looking really good.
Pete
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Skip --
"They limit side to side rocking, although will still “give” if called to do so."
I'm thinking if they give, they won't pass tech -- and rightfully so. Better minds please chime in on this.
Stan
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From my past experience, just those posts took a major amount of time.
Hang in there, SKIP.
FREUD
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Look Great Skip! Keep going!
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Hi Stan,
Your counsel on :
I'm thinking if they give, they won't pass tech -- and rightfully so. Better minds please chime in on this.
Stan,
Thanks for the input. The Kirkey shoulder braces traditionally bolt to the seat and offer "some" cusion in case of a mishap. Mine are solidly bolted to the chassis, not the seat and what I should have said is;
they will deform (instead of give) arount the cage in a mishap (rather than my shoulder banging into the side of the car). You can yank on them and they stay put.
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Hi All,
Thanks all for the comments on the ballast bars.
I recall a post from “Dynoroom” (I think) that went something to the effect of; "Safety lessons learned in LSR are sometimes pain for with blood".
Wow, that statement made me rethink my roll cage strategy and so goes the ballast bars.
I was already fretting about them and had already added some additional brackets to hold the ballast. Nonetheless, after your relevant counseling I’ve added some additional bracing behind the seat (this evening). What’s not shown in the previous pics is the seat brackets (substantial brackets at that) that bolt/clamp the bars on the driver side to the crossmembers and step pan. Front to rear movement is limited by 2 x 4 inch welded-in cross members.
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This weekend I finished welding the cage. Next time I'll be smarter and figure a way to weld the cage on the bench and then add it to the chassis. It’s starting to look like a race car!
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Skip,
Nice work .
Thanks for sharing.
Robbie
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Are you like me? When you set your ambitions to build a race car you lie to yourself (plus friends/wife) and say “how hard can this be” someone else has done this before. Besides as there’s a load of cars out there just like mine!
Here's a confession; man this is a lot of work trying to pack 10 pounds of crap into a 2 pound bag.
And I seem to be functioning in “dog years” as everything I do takes 7 times longer than expected. To make matters worse I also spend 7 times more than budgeted. Nonetheless, its cheap money for the satisfaction returned. It’ll all work out.
So as promised here are the pics of the roll cage. Its finish welded now and includes the required corner gussets (thanks to Stan). I haven’t welded in the down tubes yet as the motor plate will require final fitment (it’s at the machinist) and I want clear access for welding in the trans mount.
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Now I'm on to the rear axle.
For months I’ve been vacillating back and forth over the rear axle and couldn’t settle on an open or locked diff, not to mention as well, quick change vs fixed.
I’m also concerned with roadster’s drivability and to my rookie eye; roadsters appear to a bit nervous (like me).
Therefore, I’ve listened to Sparky promote Torsen diffs, watched his video and I’m thinking he’s on to something. I’m convinced he’s right and thinks the Torsen will apply traction to the tire that needs it, which should settle “some” of a roadsters tendency to dart around. So I’m going with a Torsen diff.
I borrowed a 7.5 inch 10 bolt for mock up and axle length. And I’ve talked at length with my local diff shop (JS Gear) and they have a Torsen series 2 from a 1999-2002 Camaro and a 2.28 gear. They suggest upgrading to Mark Williams race pieces, new 3 inch axle tubes and Ford big bearing ends, as well as Currie custom axles. All reasonable recommendations. However I’m not sure this will be strong enough to handle 1000 high horsepower.
So would anybody know whether there’s a Torsen that will fit an 8.5 inch 10 bolt, as well as to whether there’s an acceptable 2.28 or close gear.
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Now I'm on to the rear axle.
For months I’ve been vacillating back and forth over the rear axle and couldn’t settle on an open or locked diff, not to mention as well, quick change vs fixed.
I’m also concerned with roadster’s drivability and to my rookie eye; roadsters appear to a bit nervous (like me).
Therefore, I’ve listened to Sparky promote Torsen diffs, watched his video and I’m thinking he’s on to something. I’m convinced he’s right and thinks the Torsen will apply traction to the tire that needs it, which should settle “some” of a roadsters tendency to dart around. So I’m going with a Torsen diff.
I borrowed a 7.5 inch 10 bolt for mock up and axle length. And I’ve talked at length with my local diff shop (JS Gear) and they have a Torsen series 2 from a 1999-2002 Camaro and a 2.28 gear. They suggest upgrading to Mark Williams race pieces, new 3 inch axle tubes and Ford big bearing ends, as well as Currie custom axles. All reasonable recommendations. However I’m not sure this will be strong enough to handle 1000 high horsepower.
So would anybody know whether there’s a Torsen that will fit an 8.5 inch 10 bolt, as well as to whether there’s an acceptable 2.28 or close gear.
Sparky had ~1000 I think.
Bill Ward ran one with a blown big block Chevy.
Glenn Deeds had 2 in his 1800 ft/lbs. all wheel drive roadster before it was outlawed.
I'm must be missing a few other I'm sure.
I think you'll be surprised what you can get away with on the dirt or salt.....
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Hi Mike,
Thanks for the encouragement. I think Sparky runs a 7.5 inch vs 8.5 inch but im not sure, maybe he will chime in tomorrow. Nonetheless, at the very least I'm going with the 7.5 inch with a Torsen.
Thanks - Skip
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Question for Sparky
I'm going with a Torsen. So I borrowed a 7.5 inch 10 bolt for mock up and axle length (pic above). My local diff shop has a series 2 Torsen from a 1999-2002 Camaro and a 2.28 gear for my project.
My question is; are you running a 7.5 inch or an 8.5 or an 8 7/8 inch, and is there a Torsen for each?
Thanks,
Skip Pipes
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7.5, same carrier with 2.14-- remember I am running no tq converter and stock valve body---my car shifts slow and smooth- no bang loads
I run big ford roller brgs and DRUM brakes with resplined 5x5 ford axels---good luck---
If you want something stronger the GM 8 7/8 10-12 Caddy is availabe with the same 2.28 gears---the ford 8.8 stuff is based off this axel
torsen availble as well as a MW Greek coupler
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Hi Sparky,
Thanks for the excellent info.
Myself, I’m running a Tex Nascar 4-speed with .94 overdrive. As I pay the bills I plan to be gentle with the shifts.
I’m intrigued by drum brakes and ASSume they are used because they don’t eat speed and can be backed off to zero drag.
I once worked for a fellow that said poor people should take rich people to lunch. Also applies to lessons in racing, I owe you lunch!
Skip Pipes
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Skip, would love to go to lunch---also on a lakester the drums also don't pretrude into the slip stream
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Skip,
Is that your driver in the roll cage pictures? :roll: Great looking cage. Your doing a top notch job! Can't wait to see the rest! :cheers:
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Hi Ryan,
Thanks for the compliments.
Likewise, I followed along on your build and thought you did an exceptional job. I’ve been know to do a little aluminum work myself and really appreciate how much work went into forming the nose and hood on yours, and how it turned out.
As for the auxiliary pilot, yea, I’m fitting her up. Promised her she could get a ride along, if she marched in a parade (don’t think I’ll have to keep my end of the bargain).
She is good company and keeps my friends girlfriends/wives occupied while I BS and never complains when I’m talking too much “racing.”
Skip Pipes
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It's time for the motor mounts!
Back about 3 years ago I started eyeing a range of Fuel/Gas classes and was drawn to different large and smaller displacement classes. I thought how hard could this be to pick an engine combination?
Umm, seems harder than expected. So, I’ve decided to install both big block and small block mounts. The big blocks are in and I’ll get the small blocks’ in next week.
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Lateral Locaters
Since I’m using motor plates I thought lateral locators would help keep the motor anchored in the chassis and limit forward/rearward movement.
I’ve probably made this car a bit more complicated than necessary, so I tried to simplify this project. I looked around at what others were doing and thought a nifty place to mount them would be the existing motor mount locations, easy enough.
So I cut two plates in the shape of motor mounts, bought two threaded tubing adapters and some additional commercial mounting brackets. Nice and easy.
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Transmission Mount
Keeping to my previous threat to simplify, I built this transmission mount using an existing Art Morrison trans mount I had laying around. I fab up the side pieces and welded them to the Morrison mount. It’s a bit overbuilt but wasn’t too difficult to cobble together.
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Steering Rack & Shafts
On my street driven roadster I’ve got a Monza steering box its fun to drive, but a task to drive really fast. So for the racecar I’m looking for something that is a bit more precise. I’ve been intrigued by the new Unisteer Cross Steer rack & pinion and talked to some who’ve made the change over. They universally praise them so I’m trying one. I’m really impressed with the quality and workmanship of this unit and I’m confident it will work well. With the motor mounts in I was able to finish the steering shafts and couplers. The couplers are weld on and there’s no chance of shaft slippage.
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Skip - I think you'll be pleased with the Maval r&p; I used one on our D/GRMR build and am very happy with it. Nice build! vic
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Skip how high is your build table???
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Hi Sparky,
Its 18 inches high and as a 6 footer it works well for me. I’ve also got a nice older office chair that I use to work from and can tig/mig from.
Skip
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Well this past Saturday, I made a very fortunate choice, I went to vist Skip and his "thing" instead of the car show in Pomona---cost me a lots less money got a free coke and lunch---and most importantly learned a BUNCH!!!!!!!!!!
Skip has been a roundy round racer for a number of years who has built many cars and it shows in the quality of workmanship on "Skip's Thing".
Those of us who have not been around different types of racing our entire lives just have to work so hard to play catch up as we try to learn all the various things that influnce our "Straight Line Cars"--the more I learn the dumber I get--thanks Skip for the lunch, but most importantly for the insights and education --- from a very delightful 5 hours spent with you.
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Sparky, did ya apply any of that LSR espionage stuff at Skip's that you learned from Lee? :evil:
Enjoying your BFR Build Skip, keep up the good work :cheers:
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U betchum Red Ryder :-D
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Smart lad, Little Beaver! :roll:
Lynda
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LOL :-D :cheers:
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Pretty hardcore to pass on the GNRS which was excellent and had one building with nothing but historic race cars, 1/3 of which were LSR. However, I can understand the attraction of Skip's build. I shoulda called him up and visited Friday right after my plane got in. Went to the Petersen and then Old Crow (Bobby Green's) Speed Shop instead. vic
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Hi Sparky,
Thanks for the kind words concerning our visit. However, I too was really thrilled to have you visit my home shop. It was really enjoyable and educational, and yes the 5 hours went by quickly. I really like your approach to go-fast thinking and how it applies to what we are trying to accomplish.
Nonetheless, I’d say you’re a bit modest about your insights as the learning was definitely mutual. I’m a good student and will be applying what I learned.
Now it’s my turn to find my way over to the Rats Nest for a little espionage of my own, and maybe another lunch.
Skip
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Looking forward to it for sure!!!!!!!!!
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Hi Skip,
I'm bit of a late comer to your build thread but I have to say you’re doing some very impressive fab work there. As another individual with a long term salt dream, seeing your roadster coming together certainly highlights the thought processes required very well, great inspiration.
Being from the circle track world I assume you considered using the truck style trailing arms? If so, what was the reason you didn't go this route, packaging or performance? I only ask this as it's what I've had in my head to use on my roadster.
Very much looking forward to your next updates.
Cheers
Steve
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Hi Steve,
Sorry for the late reply, had an illness in the family that took me off line the past 5 months but I’m back at it.
I’m from the Midget/Sprint Car side of things where we used torsion bars with hairpins or 3 or 4-bars and originally thought I might go that way. However I too was lured by the simplicity of truck arms and I’m convinced they are a very effective and desirable set-up for this form of racing.
I actually mocked the car up with truck arms made from wood (no jokes) and worked really hard to pull it off. What defeated the concept is my driving position is extremely offset to the left so I can have;
1) Sit really low in the seat for aero
2) Have my large-ness clear the driveline
I’m not unhappy with the parallel link rear suspension I ended up with as it’s fairly effective; however if I was to build a center steer car I’d not hesitate to use truck arms.
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No problem Skip, we all appreciate family are more important than toys, I hope everything turned out ok.
Very interesting comments, the ideal setup in my head is the centre driver position and truck arms along with an extended wheelbase hidden suspension set-up like the BMR Coupe & Roadsters. My mate from Fullerton is in charge of doing a reccy at El Mirage on the centre seating set-ups as I'm in the UK., hopefully I'll make it to Speedweek again in 2012.
I think the use of wood for mocking up designs is a great idea as is the table, got a feeling I'll be borrowing those ideas, not for a while though as only early in the planning stages. I have acquired a Doug Nash 5 speed and a set of 2.48's though LOL
Keep up the good work and look forward to watching it progress.
Regards
Steve
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It’s been over several months since my last update so here’s a progress report. During this time I did take some time out to look for gainful employment, call it an extended vacation that hasn’t ended. In the meantime I did get a few things accomplished that didn’t require serious (all relative) financial expenditures.
I finished fabrication on the rear axle. It’s a GM 7.5” and I picked up a 2.41 & 2.56 & 2.73 gear sets to cover whatever engine combo I settle on. The axle housing is completely welded, straightened and ready to bolt in. The rear wheels are done and when I’m employed I’ll have the axles built.
I’m also angling to run a turbo so I also built a 13-gallon water/ice intercooler tank that will set directly behind the engine cooling water tank on the right side of the car.
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I then set out to finish the front half of the body. I first finalized the placement of the body on the chassis and started building the firewall out of .090 aluminum. I made a forming die from 2x6 wood in the shape of the tonneau cover and then made a clamping die. I sandwiched the aluminum between the two and formed of the firewall to match the underside of the tonneau cover. Also, I left the lip a bit longer which give me some area to attach Dzus tabs for mounting the hood. While it sounds simple this was the most difficult part to make on the whole car. It’s my fault because I built an overly complicated car.
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Next, I set out to set the grill shell height. This also revealed how much I needed to chop it, which turned out to be 3 inches. I used a steel Vintique, it’s a bit thin and was difficult to weld but it will work. I finished it off by making an aluminum grill shell insert.
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I next made the engine compartment side panels out of .063 aluminum and put a 90-degree lip on the top to add some side stiffness.
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Then I tried to bend up a one-piece hood, to which I guess I’m not talented enough accomplish. It ended up becoming a piece of garage art.
So I bought some more material and the Ferguson’s did on their roadster I built the hood in 2 pieces with a seam down the middle. Good enough for them, good enough for me.
Also settled my front axle dilemma. I’ve had 2 axles mocked up in the car. Didn’t care for either and they also were made with at least 1-degree positive camber. This isn’t a street car and I wanted a straight up axle with 0 degrees camber. After much looking found this older 3-inch drop Magnum axle that was on display at a local hot rod shop. It wasn’t desired and didn’t sell because it wasn’t a 4-inch drop. When I measured it I found it to be straight up, so it was a lot older than the current lot of axles. It fits the car really well, was made of weldable material, which left me with lots of room to mount the inboard coilovers. While I was at it I sprung for a P&J hairpin setup (in place of the hairpins I built) and reworked the mounts.
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I also reworked some ball bearing Chevy front hubs, which I got from Sparky when I visited with him last summer. Had them trued (they needed it) new studs installed and adapted the bearings to Ford spindles.
I’m now working on the engine cooling water tank, which will hold a radiator ala Dynoroom’s Modified Roadster. I’ll post pictures when it’s completed.
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Cool Updates Skip and good score on the front axle.
So what year is your rear axle and is it one of the torsen limited slips I've read about on here?
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Skip, Thanks for posting about the straight up frt axle---I was goingto be embarassed to have to call about the details as the CRS had me in its grip once again---imagine that :-o
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Skip,
Your car is making real progress!!! Excellent fabrication and I can't wait to see it on the Salt, think it will be this year??
Regarding the 1 degree positive camber in most after market axles, I think that they do this so when they are loaded the axle will deflect to about straight up. Since you are using a tube axle you can set the camber with a torch and a wet rag if you need to. Works pretty well and has no affect on the axle. You want to do it with out a load on it.
Rex
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Skip, whats in that fridge?
:-D
~JH
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Who else but Hotnuts would've asked that last question!!
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Maybe wes
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OK, Ill admit it, I asked but now that the question is out there dont anyone say you wouldnt pull the handle if you were alone in that shop.
LOL
~JH
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AND....
I see ball bearings on that spindle.
Looks like someone knows a thing or two.
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I smell a rat......
7.5 inch , high pressure cooling circuit.....
Build looks great Skip , you have clever friends :wink:
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Gotzy - It’s a early 90’s NOS Chevy S-10 Pick Up housing that’s been offset 6 inches with large diameter axle tubes and big bearing Ford ends. As for the diff, it’s a 1992 Torsen Limited Slip from a Camaro.
SPARKY – CRS, yea, I claim CRS when the Debbie asks me how much I spent on THIS car!
Rex – Thanks for the axle tip. I plan on running El Mirage numerous times to make sure this truck go straight before adventuring to Bonneville. With finances the way they are right now I’ll be lucky to make tech at El Mirage this year.
JH – Oh it’s full of my own personal rocket fuel http://www.stonebrew.com/ and the vintage rhymes with Oaked ABA
Dr Goggles – Yep, fairly clever friends in Arizona. Or as I’m fond of saying “experience often triumphs over enthusiasm.”
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You can ask Skip; but I won't tell, but you all MAY be surprised what could be in the engine bay near the finish....I get to stop over and see it in person (including his other toys in the backyard). He seems to be having too much fun...............JD
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Oh my - look at Skip's website.
Finish that thing up and bring it to impound. You have the admission ticket, almost.
DW
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Hmm, I could see where there might be some confusion here. What I meant to say is; what’s behind the door of the fridge is my favorite brand of Rocket Fuel. The site is not mine, however I significantly contribute to its upkeep. And if I ever get there, I’ll bring several admission passes to impound.
Skip
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My recent pics have generated several excellent PM’s that have averted potential problems. Many thanks Stan.
So I thought I’d post some pics of the cooling system while it’s under construction. That way if somebody notices something requiring attention I can address it before I close it and have to cut it back open.
What I’m after is a high pressure, closed, water to water cooling system. It’s been done before by SPARKY, Dynoroom and I’m sure others. My system is more like Dynoroom’s and after studying his car at El Mirage I think I can do the same. So what I’m doing is submerging a rather large AFCO double pass radiator in a closed water tank. I’m thinking I can get enough cooling by using the water volume in the tank to cool the submerged radiator my max HP target of 850 hp (It will be some time before I get that much HP). I’ve got lots of options at this stage of the design and one thought is to put a water nozzle spray bar in the tank to spray water at the upper vertical face of the radiator. Or I could just keep it simple and run passive water around the radiator.
I’m going to place the tank right behind the firewall, along side the right side frame rail. The intercooler tank is in line behind the engine-cooling tank.
Skip Pipes
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Also, a teaser for JH of what's in the fridge.
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Skip,
I am a big believer in the type of cooling system that you are building as it does not require the water tank to be a pressure vessel. One thing about water to water heat transfer is that it is much more efficient than air to water and because of this the actual radiator size can be much smaller which would give you more water volume in your tank. The real point gets down to how much water you have in your tank, what is its starting temperature and how much heat are you going to transfer into the water in a single run. From this you can calculate what the water temp will be at the end of the run. If it is over 212 deg F (at sea level, lower at altitude) then your tank needs to be bigger or the water colder. This is one of the reasons to use ice in the tank as ice has a requirement for additional energy when it converts from solid to liquid (energy of transformation) so you actually can have a somewhat smaller water tank. I would also recommend that you use a thermostat as the high differential temperature between the water/ice in the tank and the water in the engine/radiator will never allow the engine to warm up and when it finally gets to operating temp the water in the tank will also be at that temp and now you don't have any differential temp reserve for making the run. I would also suggest using the BMW 320 three way thermostat as it is set up to recirculate the water in the engine at full pump flow ( a normal thermostat simply prevents any water flow through the engine until it opens) and then it modulates the water flow to the radiator to maintain its set temperature. Much better set up and they are cheap, around $20.
I would suggest some sort of recirculation pump in the tank to keep the tank water moving through and around the radiator matrix along with some sort of baffling that encourages the tank water to flow through the radiator and at a pretty good rate. Don't forget to use a big water pump on your engine, over 60 gpm if possible, velocity through the radiator core is what you are looking for the more the better.
Love your build and am really looking forward to seeing you at Elmo or B'ville.
Rex
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Skip, what are the potential problems you averted? Some of us can learn from those comments.
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Skip....I KNEW something awesome was in that fridge.....call it a hunch.
One question.....
Is anyone putting a pump inside the enclosed water tank to circulate the water and prevent hot water stagnation in the core?
Just wondering...just seems like it should.
~JH
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Hot Water stagnation!
Another good catch phrase!
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looking great, any more progress with the cooling bits?
Cheers,
Drewfus :-D
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Hi Skip! The build is coming along nicely!
Very cool stuff here- good luck!
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looking great, any more progress with the cooling bits?
Yeah, and I want to see how the beer bottle over flow bottle is intergrated...
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Tman - The message was to stop drilling holes into the frame to mount stuff as (it lets moisture and salt in). Instead mount items with tabs/brackets.
Drewfus – some pics of the recirculation pump and spray bar. The idea is to move the water around in the tank so it doesn’t stagnate. I’m also spraying water on the upper portion of the radiator to aid cooling. The pump is a 12 volt 360 GPH bilge pump. Its easily serviceable/replaceable.
For the intercooler tank I’ll use a much larger 2000 GPH pump from the same mfg.
38flattie – thanks, and your car looks outstanding.
gotzy – might just have to put a cup holder somewhere in the banger.
Skip Pipes
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AND....
I see ball bearings on that spindle.
Looks like someone knows a thing or two.
Obviously something here for those in the know, could someone elaborate on this one please?
Whilst on the subject Skip, What year Chevy hubs are they? They appear to have been redrilled for 6 studs, how necessary is the 6 studs as won't that just make getting suitable rims more difficult?
So is this right, early Ford spindles, with Chevy hubs and bearings but the bearings modified to fit the Ford spindles? What mods did the bearings need? Sorry for all the questions
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Hi gotzy
I believe ball bearings offer less rolling resistance for this application. And I think the hubs are late 40’s to early 50’s and they are made from really nice material (as discovered when I had them trued up).
Early Chevy’s hubs came drilled for 6 lug’s and rims are easily sourced new from many suppliers. I did have to bore the hubs to fit the studs. And you’ll need to pay attention to the length of the knurl on the stud so it matches the hub flange.
As for the bearings, any good (relative term) industrial bearing house can take the measurements and supply bearings and seals. No machining necessary on the spindles or hubs.
The real trick is to get the wheels made for an acceptable scrub radius.
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Thanks for you comments Skip.
Is it generally considered that ball bearings are more efficient and suitable for LSR than say modern cylindrical roller bearings? I suppose it's less surface area and therefore less friction and overall better efficiency or something along those lines? As I've yet to learn much about bearings, was it difficult to get bearings that will cope with the expected load as I'm assuming that the car will be capable of running some very stout numbers (200-250?) and be carrying the weight (4000lbs +) to do it?
I'd be interested in your view of what acceptable is with relation to scrub radius? If your running a straight up axle and say a 5" rim (tyre height?), will you be able to get enough rim offset to run 0 scrub radius with your spindle and hub combination, or will you end up with some positive? Also, if you can get the rim offset desired, will the hub protrusion still fit under a moon disc or will it cause an unwanted aero problem? Any chance of some more pics of the rear of the hub and it relationship to the spindle when mounted?
Thanks
Steve
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Hi Steve,
Oh I’m sure someone will take exception to the assumption of efficiency for ball bearings and discount their benefits. Nonetheless, it’s what makes this interesting and fun for me. As far as loading goes, it’s also influenced by bearing quality (and I bought high quality bearings).
I’ve just reduced my target speeds down to F/BGR, so I’m confident the bearings will cope.
You raise good questions about the scrub radius. I’m shooting for less than 1” positive scrub and it’s my next project after I sell off some spare bits. I haven’t mocked up the axle/spindle/hub relationship yet so I don’t know where the wheels will fall or the compromises I’ll have to make. The devil is in the details. I’ll get on it as soon as I finish the cooling/intercooler tanks.
I’ll send hub/spindle pics when I get it mocked up in situ.
Skip Pipes
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Well from what I've been reading recently Skip you don't seem to alone, ceramic bearings that the well funded teams use also seem to be very nice.
So does the F engine class indicate a change of engine family already as you were setting up for SBC & BBC weren't you?
Yeah sorry about so many questions, still learning. Have you decided on a front tyre size yet? I've been trying to research the scrub radius and camber relationship and have seen all the comments that the closer to 0 the setup gets the more stable the car is but what I haven't seen is where the relationship on the camber comes in. Do your spindles have any built in camber and would running a degree or 2 of KPI get you close to 0 scrub radius?
Thanks, some pics when you get round to it would be cool.
Regards
Steve
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when you have a good bit of camber and postive scrub radius you torque the frame which changes the loading on the rear tires :-o
---small camber zero scrub radius= no rear tire loading change when you turn the tires :-)
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Yes the ceramic bearings are a very nice upgrade. I have trouble sometimes remembering I’m going Indy Car racing on a go-cart budget, so the standard ball bearings keep me within a reasonable budget.
The same applies to the new engine combination. I did set the car up for both SBC and BBC. However I’m changing engine strategies for a less expensive (slower) combo and run a boosted Toyota 3 liter 2JZGTE.
I haven’t set the tire, spindle, scrub yet as I need to sell my 8-71 blower to finance that part of the project. Nonetheless, I’m a running Ford spindle, straight up, without camber. So any scrub radius adjustments will have to come from hub, wheel and tire diameter adjustments. To your point of adding KPI, I did look into 10-degree sprint car spindles to help the scrub. However, from my dirt track oval racing experience I know extreme caster, camber and KPI have a chassis jacking effect. So I’m sticking with the “less” KPI Ford spindle.
Will shoot pics when I get going.
Skip Pipes
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G'day Skip,
You may well be surprised at what you can wring out of the 2JZ and there are a ton of after market go fast goodies available for them.
I'm off to read the rest of your build now.
Cheers,
Rob
EDIT: Great build and I'll be riding along. Do you have a pic of your seat mounts without the seat in situ. I need to mount a similar Kirkey in the near future.
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Thanks for that Sparky! So can Camber and KPI effectively be totaled and run as one figure due to the effects being the same but separate it when establishing the scrub radius in case there's camber built into the spindle?
I definitely understand that Skip, keeping the budget real can be very difficult on any car let along one for LSR. Finding cost effective ways of doing stuff is a lot of fun though and that's why I definitely understand the 2JZ as that's the motor we've settled on for our F/BGMR - BFMR project, awesome little motors as Rob says! I'm not buying into the "slower" tag though.... ;-)
Yeah I saw your parts for sale on the HAMB , good luck in the sale as I want to see this one progress. Thanks for additional front end comments, have found them very useful, so what would be your ideal caster considering being straight up and probably a pretty good scrub radius, 10-15 degrees?
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I'm p**** that we didn't come across the "radiator in a tank" idea earlier because I went to a huge effort to make our water tank with baffles which make the water take a circuit within it to prevent convection....A pressurized cooling system is much better and the water tank is then much simpler to build and can be built with a panel to add ice....
der :roll:
That's what's good about this place. :cheers:
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Doug Odom, likes 5-6 degrees my old RAT had 15 my new will have 5 deg. I figure scrub radius from the point the KP would intersect the track if it were extended through the wheel-tire in relation to the centerline of the tire contact patch if it is ZERO there is virtually no change as one turns the steering wheel. I am sure there are correct engineering terms :? but I am not familiar with them. :cry:
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Hi Rob – There are some pics of the seat on post #4, but I’ll shoot some detailed pics this weekend for you.
Gotzy – I’ll try to comment on combining the camber and KPI. I could be wrong but I don’t see any advantage to combining the two. In LSR I think less KPI is desirable, to a degree, because it minimizes weight transfer, or chassis jacking from steering input. In circle dirt track racing we increased KPI and went faster on moderately banked, wet tracks because we could influence outside tire bite/traction with a steering input. Watch a youtube sprint car in car video and watch the drive work the wheel in a corner to tune the tire bite.
Ideal caster? Hmmm, some like tall girls, others short girls, It’s what works for you. Nonetheless, I have a theory, I think extreme caster exacerbates the problem on a straight axle car and gives a similar effect to the sprint car. I currently have my car set at 12 degrees (max) with adjustability to walk it down to 7 degrees. I’m with SPARKY and Odem, and think less caster will be better. I’ve left adjustability so I don’t have to cut things off if I’m wrong.
I might be delusional, but I swear I recall some GM car with POSITIVE, or zero caster from the 70”s.
As for the 2jz, I’m contemplating running an R154a trans, what are your thoughts?
Skip Pipes
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Thanks for your thoughts Skip, your dirt track reference certainly gives me an additional avenue for research so I can gather a clearer understanding. I tend to agree on the extreme caster, what do Sparky and Odem run?
We've yet to settle on a transmission choice and won’t make a final decision until the motor is built and we know its power band. I have a Doug Nash 5 speed that we'd like to use but I've yet to find gear sets available for them as I'd ideally want to tighten up the gear spread (3.270 - 2.140 - 1.570 - 1.230 - 1.000) or use it as a 4 speed.
I've considered the R154 as well and feel that the gear spread (3.250 - 1.955 - 1.310 - 1.000 - 0.753) is a little wide like the Nash even if using it as a 4 speed, mainly because of the 4th to 5th spread.
The V161 6 speed has also been considered (3.727 - 2.246 - 1.541 - 1.205 - 1.000 - 0.818) but using it as a 5 speed from 2nd to 6th but I'm unsure of the strength of the 5th and 6th gears. These are very expensive and we'd have to use Supra clutches which go for stupid money which is why we'd like to use the Doug Nash with a more common clutch. Also cheaper for steel bell housing but custom flywheel would probably be needed and not sure of the cost of that.
Push off speed is another factor which I've yet to fully take into consideration and I've yet to talk to anyone with experience on this, until I really know power bands I can't really think about it properly. Wouldn't like to be pushing much above 50 mph though but I'm not sure of the common speeds.
Being in the UK also mean spares availability is also a major consideration for us, no chance of supra spares on the salt but Doug Nash parts and Chevy clutches my be around to borrow on a bad day. Conversion parts such as the adapter plate, flywheel and starter will also need to be considered but will become clearer when parts are collected.
Considering you already have your Tex Trans with a 0.940 overdrive, I'd be running that for sure as this car will certainly grow and a flexible transmission would be welcomed i'd imagine. What's the gear spread on your Trans and did you buy it new or used?
With a 0.940 top along with 28" tyres and 2.50:1 rear you have the potential of a very fast roadster... especially now you've got that big blower out of the air...
Going back to your Tex, is it a 4 or 5 speed? Do they even do 5 speeds?
What do you reckon now?
Another thing I've been meaning to ask you, you've offset your diffs centre section by 6", is there any danger of getting a rear steer effect form different length drive shafts or is the overall width too narrow? I can't seem to find what or where I read something like this but I do think it was with a spool, does your circle track experience offer anything to this or dispel it?
Cheers
Steve
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The torque acting through the driveshaft/ring gear relation ship is trying to lift the pass side tire. This MAY help that problem by placing more weight on that side---mine was in the center but I biased the weigh to the passside by 135# by weight and chassis jacking.
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Hi Rob,
Here are the promised seat pics.
Skip Pipes
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2nd set
Kirkey has aluminum mounts for this seat, but that I thought i could improve on that. The plan was to securely anchor the seat with a steel mount. These are from 1020 flat bar and plate.
Skip Pipes
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G'day Skip,
Thanks for taking the time to take and share the seat mount pics. I had been told to be sure I mounted it solidly and they certainly qualify.
I too will be bracing the back to the cage when the time comes.
Cheers,
Rob
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Looking good Skip!
The Kirkey mounts are pretty cheesy. Yours look first class!
Hope to see this some day!
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Hi Steve,
I’m setting the car up to initially start with 10 degrees caster.
As for the trans, I’m looking at a tried and true, off the shelf combo, and not something that I have to custom engineer. There are several flywheel/clutch combinations that have shown well in drifting and are stocked by several outfits. The ultimate would be a Tilton 3 disc. As for the trans, I’m thinking an R154 would handle this torque curve. Although it’s a 5 speed I’d stick to using 4th gear as the high gear and use the overdrive for beer runs.
Skip
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Also made progress on the radiator in a tank. The top is removable for maintenance. Now on to finishing the tank mounts.
In the car, It’s a big tank.
Skip
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Looks good Skip!
What is that 'tray' on the top for?
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Hi Buddy,
You might be referring to the angle material that stands off from inside the tank. If so, It’s the mounting fixture that the radiator bolts to and holds the radiator upright and in position within the tank. And it also holds the water spray bar that pushes water over the top of the radiator.
Skip Pipes
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Yep, that's what I was referring too. Thanks!
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:? I thought that it was for the Beer can rack in side of the intercooler with ice in it :cheers:
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High Skip,
Just read thru your build very nice. When are you tring to have the car done ? Even though I run in comp coup I grew up going to the lake bed and bonneville with my dad and Bob Lee's 29 roaster so roaster have always be deep in my blood.
Who did you buy your body from? And if you don't mind about how much was it? Keep posting pic's looking forward to seeing it done.
Donnie Stringfellow
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DSR88: Always loved the head rest on Bob's Roadster..................
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Me too,
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Hi Donnie,
I’m trying to get the car to move under it’s own power by the end of this year. I just picked up a transmission and oil pan this week and I’m waiting on a core engine to arrive next week so I can start on the engine/trans mounts. What’s holding me back is a lack of cash, from lack of employment. I’ve been selling off what I can to fund the project and next up on the block will be my beloved 1929 Ford Roadster P.U.
The body is from Poli-Form, it’s their racing only version. And I also picked up their tonneau cover. I have $2200 in the body, tonneau, crating and shipping.
Do you have a picture of your Dad's 29 roadster?
Thanks,
Skip Pipes
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Hi Skip
I hope things are looking better for you. I can't wait to see that roaster done and one the salt!!!!!!!! On your grill shell is that the 32 sectioned ? Sorry I have not but a pic of my dad's old roaster can't seem to get my scanner to work.I might try to take a pic of a pic see if that works. As you might have figured out I am getting ready to start building a roaster. I like what you are laying yours out. I hope you don't mind if I have a question evey now and then. Thanks Donnie Stringfellow
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Oh, you can section the grille sideways, but got to keep the same height?
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Stan,
What about the square inch rule?
DW
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Hi Skip
I hope things are looking better for you. I can't wait to see that roaster done and one the salt!!!!!!!! On your grill shell is that the 32 sectioned ? Sorry I have not but a pic of my dad's old roaster can't seem to get my scanner to work.I might try to take a pic of a pic see if that works. As you might have figured out I am getting ready to start building a roaster. I like what you are laying yours out. I hope you don't mind if I have a question evey now and then. Thanks Donnie Stringfellow
Hi Donnie,
Visiting with my friends at Jack Garage have helped. I’m also going back to work next week so things are looking up.
As for the grill shell; Yes, I removed 3 inches out of the height.
Keep the questions coming, I’m good at giving and taking my own bad advise.
Also I’ve finished fabrication the engine/trans mounts for the Toyota engine. The engine is in place but took up more room than I expected. Still, it looks good in there.
Skip Pipes
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update, how is the job going :?
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Hi Skip....glad your cranking along and still out and about! I had to chuckle about the size of the engine. Dan Wagner and I were shocked to discover (back in 1995) that we could fit a small block Chevy in the same size hole needed for a 4-cylinder Corolla Hemi....the Chevy doesn't need big manifolds hanging out both sides! Sometimes logic just escapes me. :?
JimL
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Hi Sparky,
It's nice to be employed once again although it's been a bit of a learning curve with the new outfit.
Hi Jim,
This combo is going to take every inch of space in the bay and then some. Nonetheless, that's what makes it fun.
Thanks - Skip
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Great build you have going!!!!!! I live in the San Fernando area and would like the chance to see you build in person one of these days and ask you some questions. I'll even bring over a 24 pack of your choice :cheers:
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Oh, you can section the grille sideways, but got to keep the same height?
"The width may not be altered" = from rule book
so no...
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Jorge;
Where's my 24 pack?
John
P.S. I'm close to Skip.
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John,
I would need a make and model of beer choice, an address date and time.
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Any make, any model, any day, any time!
John
P.S. - I'll be around Saturday 7 AM to 2 PM.
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Hi Skip,
Ok it is time for a up date. Page 2 is not a good sign.
Now Jim and I are making progress on the rebuild of our comp coupe I am starting the build of the roaster. Jig is ready front end and rearend is on the jig body will be here soon engine will be done soon and trans is about done.
Now how are you doing ?
Donnie
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Hi Donnie,
Glad you’re making progress with your Comp Coupe and Roadster.
Since Memorial Day I’ve been keeping a pretty low profile. However, recently my situation has improved and events are now trending in my favor. So my attitude is improving and I’m back working on the car.
The Toyota core engine and trans are in the car and I’ve sourced some of the items I need to move forward.
Maybe next year I’ll be able to give some competition to the #369 Waters - Manghelli – Romero Toyota/Roadster.
Skip Pipes
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Here is the trans mock up.
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Alright!! you're back on track to posting again.
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Skip, It's good to see you back on this! :cheers:
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Been out of town for the last ten days bet keep up the nice work .
Donnie
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Well I’m back up to speed and decided to take 2 steps backwards to take 1 step forward. I wasn’t entirely focused when I installed the Toyota Engine/Trans and that needed to be sorted out.
The original build plan for the car was to use a Big Block Chevy bolted to a mid-plate. It’s the right design for the car, so I decided to rip the mess out and start over. I had a good friend Nathan cut me another blank mid-plate. Then, Jorge Puerto offered to help me sort out the mess. We ripped out the Toyota engine/trans and then Jorge went to town carving up the mid-plate. We cut out the old mounts and repositioned the engine/trans, then sandwiched it to the new mid-plate. Looks good if I do say myself.
Yes, I’ll be fabricating a custom 360-degree scattershield from ¼ inch material.
Next up, Jorge and I tackled the intercooler mounting.
I didn’t want a repeat of the engine install so I did a fair amount of procrastinating and thinking about how I wanted to mount the intercooler. This intercooler will handle up to 1,000 HP and I think I came up with a good mounting solution. Additionally, the mounts are adaptable for future upgrades so I can fit a much larger intercooler.
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Next weeks project is to finish the front motor mounts, then on to the fuel tank.
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Skip so glad to see you back at it!
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Good to see you back at it Skip. Did you build the intercooler? It's a nice looking piece.
Pete
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Skip,
That guy looks a bit familiar :-D, thanks for giving me the opportunity to be apart of your build and I hope I can lend a hand all the way to the end.
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Good to see your back on it Skip!
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Hi Pete,
I didn't fab the intercooler. It's not that I didn't want to, but for what I paid for the finished piece I couldn't buy the basic material. I found it locally at CXRacing.
Here's a picture of the turbo manifold that Dan Aleshire found for me.
Skip
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You keeping the mousetrap as a model so you can build a better one? :-D :-D :-D
Pete
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What's the latest Skip?
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Yeah, I thought you were coming to Phoenix!!!! :-o
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Hi Sparky,
Wife's surgery got in the way, I'll be over next month.
Well, I figured it was time for an update.
I’ve been spending money like I won the lotto. The truth is; when you change horses in midstream it gets expensive.
Since the last update, I had another set of wheels built (for El Mirage) and tires delivered.
Ordered a 20lb Firefox and a Stroud parachute.
No pictures yet, but I did knock up a fuel tank out of stainless steel.
We also broke down the intercooler tank and created internal mounts for a Rule 2000 pump, added the in/out/venting piping, retrofitted the top of the tank for a deck plate (to get the pump in/out). Then I reassembled the tank and finished welding it together.
Additionally, there is no steel aftermarket bellhousing for the Toyota so my buddy Jorge and I spent the better part of 4 weekends cobbling up this 360 degree, external scattershield. I’ve never had something so simple, so easily kick me to the curb. It wore me out, cut me, tore my skin off and generally frustrated me to the point I broke out a new bottle of Jack Daniels. Lest you think I was going to let the scattershield get the best of me, we prevailed.
To keep my composure we did divert an afternoon to rework the rear trans mount to properly accept the Toyota trans.
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Additionally, , the turbo is here and as usual I spent 2 times what I thought I would. I also had to rethink the exhaust manifold for the bigger turbo.
I would have built the manifold, but opted for a known combination that matches the bigger turbo. While my intent is to not break new ground, I did go with a matched, proven “bigger turbo/manifold” combination.
Well, not to back off now, but the bigger turbo demands a bigger, higher flowing intake manifold. I will fabricate this combination (5” OD) to fit within the body. To help flow I’ll use these attractive RMR inlets to smooth out the flow. I’ll post up pictures as I go.
To compliment the new manifold I picked up a Wilson Manifolds 75mm Throttle Body. To inject fuel and match the bigger combination, I purchased some shockingly big, shockingly expensive injectors. I’m sure they are made of gold.
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Looks good, did you ever sell your HA/GR?
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Thought I had the car less motor sold in January, but the buyer got cold feet. Still for sale.
Seriously though, someone ran a car at WOS a few years back that looked a lot like an HA/GR. I recall it had a Chevy 6.
Put a Midget (dirt track) nose on my car, a warmed over Chevy 250 in it, steel wheels/frontrunners and go an easy 130 mph.
It will pass tech as the cage is 1 5/8" by 0.134" left over from the roadster.
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Too many projects but you have a good idea!
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It's looking good, Skip! :cheers:
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Made some progress on the intake manifold.
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More
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Looking good Skip, what's your revised power goals with the new larger components?
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I’m not sure the new components will make more HP, just make it easier to make HP, with less heat.
This turbo will be in the middle of its map, so it’s not working too hard.
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Good planning, I like
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Skip, There are some thinngs you might want to do with the TB mounting and the other end of the "mail box"--
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Hi Skip
Very tasty work, just wondering why each pair of intakes are mounted a little higher or lower to the center line.
New to the forum, what kind of engine are you using?
Don
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Sparky, how about we chat tomorrow :evil:
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Hi Don,
Thanks for the complement. Welcome to the forum.
The engine is a Toyota 2JZ from a mid 90’s Supra. And yes, the center pairing of intakes are lower than the outer pairings. I’m using the lower half of a factory manifold, which I believe is fairly well developed piece. It was already oriented with the centers inlets below the centerline. Toyota took some care in developing this engine family and I’m confident they had a reason for adjusting intake track angle and/or length.
Skip
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sure thing
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How much of that intake did you get done yesterday.....
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Sparky - Mission accomplished on the "Mail Box."
Might have to go to Phoenix this week.
Jorge - check your phone for pics!
All - I'll post a proper update after I rest up.
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Great Lunch is on me!!!
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Fabrication on the intake manifold is complete.
I was able to weld the base plate to the lower manifold by preheating the lower. However, my 175-amp welder doesn’t have enough power to pull off the finish welding as the plenum is fairly large and pulls all the heat from the weld. I need to find a friend with a 300-amp welder.
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Also, the Intercooler tank is completely finished.
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Nice work Skip!
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I need to find a friend with a 300-amp welder.
G'day Skip,
Pity you don't live around the corner or down the road - you would be quite welcome to use my old 315 amp Airco TIG :roll:
Good work so far, though. Your build, and a couple of others, are really firing up my enthusiasm!
Cheers :cheers:
Pete
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Nice work Skip! :cheers:
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looking good as always Skip, any photo's of all that alloy plumbing joined up?
Cheers,
Drewfus :-D
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Hi Drewfus,
Well, here’s a teaser.
Jorge and I have been putting the time in and this old truck is taking shape.
Here is a pic of the exhaust; is stainless.
As for the alloy plumbing, here is a mockup shot. The real thing is stainless, it’s finished; I just don’t have pics yet.
So why stainless, it’s bulletproof at really high boost.
I also want to thank Anthony Young for his generosity in letting me use his shop/equipment to weld up my intake manifold. If you ever get a chance to see his car in person, don’t miss it. It’s a stunner.
Skip Pipes
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Skip, that's looking nice!
You and Jorge are rocking! :cheers:
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That turbo plumbing is sexy.
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Wooooo--- Skip you better watch it :wink: you make this Salt Mistress too sexy and MaMa is going to get jelous---well at the very least---us guys out here in Boost---wantabe land!!! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Almost an hour to make the slash cut tip...good call skip...well worth it... :cheers:
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Almost an hour to make the slash cut tip...good call skip...well worth it... :cheers:
yep, classy.
I share the lust of S.S., tis a bugger to tinker with, but built to last.
Keep at it, enjoying seeing your progress.
Cheers,
Drewfus :-)
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Wow Sparky – Salty Mistress, I like that, she’s got an appropriate name now.
And seeing as how she’s a Mistress, she is a demanding one.
The wastegate was jealous and wanted it’s own sexy exhaust.
Next project is the turbo inlet.
Hey Buddy – Supper job making HP. Put it to good use. You bringing the car to Elmo in May? If so, I'll see you there.
Tman - thanks for the comments.
Drewfus – Yep, stainless is tough to work with. I built a bead roll tool using a vice-grip, as my bead roller can’t handle stainless. I’ll put it to work this weekend and see how it works on stainless.
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You've been kicking butt...during the week...NICE...see you this weekend...
This sentence should be better...i hope.. :-D
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Nice fab work guys, well worth the investment in time and effort!!
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Someone been busy building then?
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Yep, we've been busy taking one step forward, two back. I'll post some progress pics on the "Salt Mistress" after this weekends work.
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I spent a solid month of nights and weekends working on the turbo inlet and air scoop.
Because I built the car for a Chevy V-8 (my mistake) the turbo inlet had to go over the front suspension tower so it could meet up with the air scoop. For the turbo inlet I used a 5 inch Diesel stack and bends that I spliced together.
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Once I got the inlet positioned on the tower I started fabricating the slip joint for the scoop.
I cut some 2” strip used 5” aluminum blank to form the slip joint.
The scoop on the other hand took the longest to fabricate.
It was slow going trying to get scoop to transition design right. The challenge was having the inlet coming through the grill shell and needing to slant upward under the grill shell and join up with the slip joint.
For the scoop itself I started by mocking up several shapes in cardboard until I got what I liked.
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I built a radius bar to bend the scoop up. Clamped it to the bench and bent the scoop up. Built it in 2 pieces and welded it down the sides.
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Here is the finished scoop.
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More
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I then moved on to the firewall. I built one that I really didn’t like, so I cut it up, used it for a pattern. The new one is 0.100” thick aluminum. Its cleaner, better fitting and I like it. The really hard part was refitting the hood and side panels to the new firewall.
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Hi Skip
Very nice alum fab work, what class will you run in with that blown engine and what is the record?
Have you picked out a color for the car.
Don
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Skip,
You make it look so easy, I almost think you might know what you're doing!
What thickness of aluminum are you using?
What alloy and heat treatment?
What method of welding?
I admire people who are are so talented in their crafts - - such a foreign concept to me! I spent 38 years in the precast concrete business and still couldn't get 10 panels of concrete to be all the same color. My modus operandus is simply "git 'er done" and sometimes it ain't so pretty.
Tom
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Hi DND,
The class is F/BFR
The record is held by Walter L. Medlin - Bruce Linsmeyer @220.831
Color – JADRR (just another darn red roadster)
Hi Tom,
The basic scoop is 0.063” 3003 - H14
The transition is the same material, just annealed so I could form it easier.
The body is also 0.063” 3003 - H14
The firewall is 0.100” 6061 - T6
I’m using TIG on the aluminum.
Thanks for the complements, but I’m a rank amateur when welding aluminum (I’ve got friends that are miracle workers with aluminum; now they’ve got talent). The good news is the more you work with and weld aluminum the more you learn and your technique improves with experience. I could use a better (more powerful) welder, but it would be wasted on me until I improve my technique.
Skip Pipes
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Skip, I presume you are using 1100 filler rod to tig weld your .063 together. I have had trouble with cracking and prefer to gas weld this thckness. What do you have for a welder? Settings? My Lincoln 185 has been a magic unit but the thinner sheet aluminum doesn`t give the results I want.... :x
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I use a variety of 303 & 6061and often weld them to each other. For the scoop I used 1100 on the basic scoop and 4043 where I need strength. I’ve had really good results with the 4043 and I’ll often preheat the item with a MAP Gas torch before welding.
I’m currently running an air-cooled Square Wave Tig 175 from Lincoln, which has given me spotless performance. I really do love this welder as its matched to my skill sets, however I do sometimes run out of capacity welding aluminum and could use a more powerful welder. Lately its come down to “racecar parts” vs welder capacity, racecar wins. With the 175 I’ve successfully butt welded 0.040” 3003 using 1/16” 2% tungsten & 1100 rod. It took exceptionally tight gaps, lots of cleaning, sharp tungsten. I’ve tried pure tungsten in this machine but I think the square wave likes the 2% better.
Some good news, I’ve closed another chapter by selling my HAMB Dragster. Helped the new owner load it up yesterday and its on the way to Canada. Back to spending money on this racecar!
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Skip, I think you'll really like ceriated tungsten If you like the 2%. It holds the point better and is designed for the job. 2% is actually designed for welding steel. The ceriated is designed for AC and DC welding. It's a more modern solution.
Pete
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Whoooeee " here comes brown Santa" in July---doesn't get any better than that!!!
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Skip, I assumed ( and we all know how ass-u-me breaks down ) when I first read your post that you were referring to 2% thoriated tungsten. I now realize that you may have been referring to 2% ceriated. You may also want to try lanthiated as well. Even with my old technology machines I've moved toward the ceriated as I use up the old tungsten stock.
Pete
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Congrats on selling the HAMB Dragster Skip!
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Skip---I`m using exactly what you use. I`ll have to practise more on .063 and thinner material.... :-D :-P
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Sparky,
Yep, I’m on a first name basis with the UPS driver. He also keeps me updated on what the other gearheads are doing on his route.
Peter,
You’re right, I’m using 2% thoriated tungsten, however I’m anxious to try 2% ceriated. Truth is, the info/help you get here is priceless.
Tman,
Thanks; it’s a mixed bag of emotions. I needed to remove this reminder to further the healing. It also helps to have the cash to buy shiny new things for the roadster.
Kiwi Paul,
I’m actually using 3/32” 2% thoriated on 0.063” but will grab some ceriated this week and try it.
Here is a pic of some 0.040” I hammered together. The nose is 3 pieces and the tail is 4 pieces.
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Nice Work, Skip!! I could make those pieces in 18 or 20 Ga. Cold Rolled all day, but I falter on Aluminum a bit...I need more practice, obviously.....Looking forward to seeing the Roadster completed....
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Well, I figured it was time for some new pictures.
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One more
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Skip, Good to see your progress--- thinking back on our visit and following your build is one of the main things that got me going on pulling out my TURBO stuff I had been accumulating for years.
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Looking good Skip, thanks for the updated photos
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Hi Skip
Looking very nice, Mike is not going to take too kindly to you mounting his oil tank laying down !!
Don
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Skip, the car is looking great!
It's real great to see you back at it! :cheers:
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Hey Sparky
Well I did underestimate the costs to support the turbo. No regrets though :evil:
Hi DND,
What! I was told roadsters need as much aero help as possible. However, it is a really fine piece of workmanship.
Hey Buddy
Thanks, been working steady on it. It's a bit of a challenge packing 10lbs of fun in a 5lb bag :-D
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Only 243 more days till speed week....!!!!....
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I just read the the whole thread. Excellent build. I wish you all the luck.
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Making slow but steady progress.
Have most of the interior sheet metal roughed in and working on the trans tunnel.
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Also have the reverse curve for the windshield almost completed. Next up is the parachute enclosure.
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I'm likin' your work Skip. Keep it up. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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That's hot rodding at it's finest. You never "Skipped" a detail. Awesome!.
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Hi Guys - Thanks for the encouragement.
Here I'm roughing the paper form for the parachute cover. Then here is the aluminum bent up and rougher in. I'll final trim it to shape with snips and file the edges after I set the Dzus tabs. I saved the fiberglass cutouts so I can trim them up and reinstall them to fill the gaps I created to the parachute cover. I REALLY hate fiberglass work!
In a couple of weeks this should be of the table for final welding.
Skip
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Nice, Sip. Really glad to see you back at it..... :-D
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Nice job on the windshield frame.
FREUD
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Hi Skip
Long sleeve shirts really help plus it is still on the cool side, those shirts in the summer is really 'Bad News '
Don
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Hey Skip, why do you hate fiberglass work? :-D
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Hi Tauruck,
I’m allergic to fiberglass dust. My eyes swell shut and I have breathing issues working the stuff.
Skip
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That's not good. You'll have to wear protection. I don't know what you're actually doing but I try not to use angle grinders for cutting. I use a reciprocating saw and palm sander for smoothing. The high speed stuff makes the job nasty even for guys with experience. I work with the stuff daily and you've got me scratching. PM me anytime for advice, I'll help where I can.
A guy I knew was on vacation and went to visit his buddies at the yacht basin. They put him to work on a boat but he was in shorts and sandals and ended up spending a week in the hospital. Nice friends!.
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Freud - Thanks for the compliment :-)
Hi Tauruck,
Yea, I wear long sleeve flannel shirts with the wrists taped closed, neck buttoned up and a 3M mask. I'm limiting myself to roughing in/and cutting the body for roll cage/push bar/parachute access and placement on the chassis. I'm doing any more with the glass I'm going to hire someone to fix my trimming jobs and prep the body for paint.
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That's not good. You'll have to wear protection. I don't know what you're actually doing but I try not to use angle grinders for cutting. I use a reciprocating saw and palm sander for smoothing. The high speed stuff makes the job nasty even for guys with experience. I work with the stuff daily and you've got me scratching. PM me anytime for advice, I'll help where I can.
A guy I knew was on vacation and went to visit his buddies at the yacht basin. They put him to work on a boat but he was in shorts and sandals and ended up spending a week in the hospital. Nice friends!.
I've found that the el cheapo "sheet metal" pneumatic saw that I bought on sale at HF for around $10 is great for cutting fiberglass. It takes modified hacksaw blades so it has a narrow saw kerf and it can make reasonably small radius cuts. Amen on wearing protection from the dust; you'll itch for days without it. A good 3M dust mask is recommended over a cheaper brand.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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Looking good, Skip! :cheers:
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Skip, why not form the sides of the cage to the back of the chute housing-- the air for the pilot chute :-D should be much happier :-D not nearly as confused
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Neil, Skip, a trick on the Harbor Freight air hacksaw. As soon as you get it home, take the blade guide block apart, clean all the threads with brake cleaner or lacquer thinner, and then reassemble with loctite on the screws. It will last for years. Also, notch the plastic cover And aluminim case for access to the blade set screws and loctite the countersunk screw. I use bimetal blades for best results on fiberglass. I just snap off the length I want with a pair of pliers.
If you turn the teeth to pull, and run a little long on the blade, you can angle the saw to cut tight corners in your glass. You will be working farther out on the blade with this method. The blade can curve quite a bit! Stay a little off your line, then use the curved side of carpenters wood rasp to finish shape. The fine teeth of a wood rasp give very nice control on fiberglass, both flat or curved.
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Jim;
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll have to check to see which direction I installed the saw teeth. I don't buy anything but bi-metal blades these days-- they are worth the small additional cost. The saw cuts sheet aluminum pretty well, too.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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not as good as a skill saw---be sure to get ear protection firs
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Jim;
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll have to check to see which direction I installed the saw teeth. I don't buy anything but bi-metal blades these days-- they are worth the small additional cost. The saw cuts sheet aluminum pretty well, too.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
My saw is my right hand :-D. I work with composites every day so I need the best. CP saw and Starrett 18t Red Stripe blades (used to use Green Stripe but they're discontinued). Yup, the blade goes in opposite to the hacksaw setup. For going around tight corners I shape the back of the blade on the belt sander.
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Put some more time into the reverse curve for the windscreen mounting. It’s almost done except for minor trimming and sanding out the shrinker marks.
Then I mounted the windscreen. Just need to do the final trim.
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Also put some more time into the parachute cover. Finish roughing in the left & right sides and then the top. Then welded them together and finished the seam.
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Nice, Skip. Good to see some progress--keep plugging away, you are getting there.... :cheers:
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Skip
Not trying to be smart azz, but are you sure you have 120 degrees of vision? Don't think they have changed the rules. Looked in an older book, all i could find on short notice. Would really hate to see you get there and have to change something to satisfy inspectors.
Ron
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Hi Skip
Sheet metal is looking very nice, i noticed two helmets on a shelf as i'am looking for a vintage Bell Magum 500 ' Visor '
Have a hemet i wan't to get done up like i had mine in the 60's with engine turned silver leaf and a blue border, it really was brite to look at in the sunshine
Don
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Skip
Not trying to be smart azz, but are you sure you have 120 degrees of vision? Don't think they have changed the rules. Looked in an older book, all i could find on short notice. Would really hate to see you get there and have to change something to satisfy inspectors.
Ron
Ron, with the rule that requires you lateral helmet movement limit enclosure to extend to the front of the helmet I find it hard to imagine that most of the cars really have 120 degrees of vision. The front edge of all full face helmets is several inches in front of your eyes... and the lateral has to be to the front of the helmet.
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Skip
Not trying to be smart azz, but are you sure you have 120 degrees of vision? Don't think they have changed the rules. Looked in an older book, all i could find on short notice. Would really hate to see you get there and have to change something to satisfy inspectors.
Ron
Ron, with the rule that requires you lateral helmet movement limit enclosure to extend to the front of the helmet I find it hard to imagine that most of the cars really have 120 degrees of vision. The front edge of all full face helmets is several inches in front of your eyes... and the lateral has to be to the front of the helmet.
And if anyone can see through the helmet side bar padding they are Clark Kent! :-D
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These are some pics of a cage I just finished for a friend with the required "head banger" bars and if the 120 degree rule is held as an absolute this car probably won't pass along with many others, skips roadster included. I think that safety comes before the absolute rule of 120 deg vision.
Rex
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Rex --
Sure you can't see over or under the side pads?
Stan
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Take 2 60 degree drafting triangles and stick em back to back. The put the pointy end at the bridge of your nose. 120 degrees is not much. :mrgreen:
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Not so fast Trent. I think you have them bassackwards. :cheers: Wayno
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Not so fast Trent. I think you have them bassackwards. :cheers: Wayno
Naw, it still is not that far compared to your actual periferal. I bet most cars are just under the 120 number a bit on either side by a few degrees. From looking at a few cages today for reference I would say the front tube on most cages cuts off 5 degrees per side? Like Stan said, some folks can see over the cheek bar. Just guestimates from looking at some drivers shots. Your milage may vary.
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Trent, I'm talking about the 30/60 drafting triangle. The pointy end is the 30. I just don't want someone to use it wrong and get in a bind. Make sense? Hope it's warming up for you in the Dakotas. Wayno
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Trent, I'm talking about the 30/60 drafting triangle. The pointy end is the 30. I just don't want someone to use it wrong and get in a bind. Make sense? Hope it's warming up for you in the Dakotas. Wayno
Yeah, I WAS thinking of that to start but was too lazy to link the image I had! 70s-teens now working back to 60s :cheers:
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IIRC, years ago the Rasberry Rocket had to put "windows" in the side of their body to meet the rules. Like Stainless said, safety should override nit-picking.
FWWIW That being said, on the roadster I have now, in three years running, the shoulder belts had to have the length - routing changed three times to satisfy the inspector. And now a forth and hopefully last for the Hans.
Ron
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We made the mount adjustable after the third time.
"Now show me just where you want it."
Reminds me of Road Runner Reese Adams discussing fire nozzle location with an inspector -- "Tell me again just where the fire's gonna be."
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We made the mount adjustable after the third time.
"Now show me just where you want it."
Reminds me of Road Runner Reese Adams discussing fire nozzle location with an inspector -- "Tell me again just where the fire's gonna be."
:-D :-D :-D
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Hi Rex - Very nice cage.
I can think of 6 record holding roadsters with similar treatments, so it might not be an issue.
What I really need to worry about is its "terminal velocity" and not wrapping the parachute cord around the cage!
Skip
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It's nice to see the parts come together in something that resembles a race car. It's far from done, however, I can see the day when it will run.
Also, I still have the build table and will give it away to anyone who can use it.
Skip Pipes
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More
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:-o That really looks good! Much different than I imagined now that it's on the ground. :cheers:
Geo
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Looking good!
Cant wait to see that thing on the lakebed. When do you think it will make it's maiden run?
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Nice work Skip. The "Thing" is coming along.
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Congratulations on this roll out! To those who've never experienced it, be it bike or car, there is no way to describe that first time out in daylight. Everything gets real with some sky over it, don't you think?
Very good looking roadster, Skip.
Regards, Jim
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Congratulations on this roll out! To those who've never experienced it, be it bike or car, there is no way to describe that first time out in daylight. Everything gets real with some sky over it, don't you think?
Very good looking roadster, Skip.
Regards, Jim
I second that.. :cheers:
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Congrats skip......keep pulling those long week and weekend days...in the garage...
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Thanks guys for the encouragement.
It should make the lakebed after Speedweek.
Thanks Jorge, It would be on it's wheels if you hadn't pitched in this last year to get it where it is.
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It would or wouldn't....lol...thank you for letting me take part in it...glad I was there to see it roll out for the first time...that moment really was something special...
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Congrats Skip---you are getting much closer to being able to go kill some bugs!!!! :-o :cheers:
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Our lakester hasn't come out of the cellar yet but it was a BIG day last month when it sat on the floor on four wheels after 11 years of building.
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Very cool Skip
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Updates Skip?
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Hi Trent,
It's in final assembly and I've been working my tail off to get it finished. I've just been too tired to post anything. I think the damn thing has mind of it's own and it's determined to let me know so.
Skip
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Hi Skip
I was wondering how the car was coming too, wow that is one hell of a frame once the skin is off to see it all
All that tube will help keep her planted to the white stuff
When do you plan on running the car?
G Don
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Hi Don,
Yea, it's a bit overkill; but I like it that way. I'm constantly reminded by my friends that there might be an easier way, but that's not what I'm know for. I built it so you could throw as much HP at it as you could afford. Unfortunately, I can't afford that much, so I'll stay in the lower engine classes.
Skip
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That looks like a really HD piece, nice work.
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STOUT comes to mind! Lookin good!
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Great job Skip! Car looks super. 8-)
As for the engine telling you who's boss....... I get it. :cheers:
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Skip,
Looking at your car brings to mind the motto of my engineering materials and engineering shop instructor, H.P. Davis (Univ. of Wyo circa 1964)
"WHEN IN DOUBT MAKE IT STOUT"!!! Words that I have followed for almost 50 years.
Love your car and can't wait to see it at the salt.
Rex
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Hi Don - Forgot to say I’m aiming for the November El Mirage meeting.
Stainless – Thanks for the compliment. And I’d say; you more than most know the importance of HD construction. I’m really happy you’re OK.
Trent – Thanks for the compliment. I’ll try to post more as it progresses.
Michael – Thanks for the compliment. Yea, this is my first rodeo with this engine configuration and it‘s definitely proving which one of us is in charge. I can’t thank you enough as I’ve borrowed so many ideas from you car. I promise I wont give up any more secrets!
Rex - Thanks for the compliment. When I set out on this project I knew I wanted overkill on everything and I think I’ve accomplished that. No regrets.
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ALL right buddy ----you are for sure "gitin er done" :cheers:
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Skip, it's looking good! Good to see some more progress posted! :cheers:
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Wow, That thing looks great! Stout is best, you don't want to be sitting in a spindly car going 200+ MPH!
Cant wait to see it on the dirt/salt.
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Had a good day in the shop :-D
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:-)
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Just like everyone has said LOOKS REAL GOOD!!!!!!!!!!!!! So good that if you looked at our Roadster
I used a couple of your idea's when I would get stuck.
Donnie Stringfellow
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Skip, that car just has something. A presence. For some reason it reminds me of "Nanook", the Altered in the early 70s. It just looks right. Beautiful work man. :cheers:
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Things are coming along Skip, looking great ,like the grey on the frame. any idea on bare weight ?
waiting for you to come to Bonneville so I can meet you half way
Canadianal
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Well, it doesn't go Vroom Vroom yet.
I thought I had this car 90% done a long time ago. That last 10% has taken twice as long as the 90% :-D
My friend Anthony Young called me awhile back and told me to come by and get some hose and fittings to plumb the car. What a super guy! it's taken me awhile to route everything, but I'll finish this weekend.
Al, looking forward to seeing you at Bonneville. Drop me a line and let me know how the dragster is running.
Skip Pipes
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Skip, that is as professional a job as it gets.
What a beauty!!!. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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Closing in on it. Only wiring, tuning and testing left.
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Gosh darn Skip, that is a fast looking roadster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :cheers: I can not say enough about it but it reminds me of the Peek Bros car (which is being rebuilt) from the late 60s. :cheers:
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:cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
It's been worth the wait. Skip, that's just great!!!!
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It's a lot longer and lower than the Peek Brothers car.
FREUD
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Wow, I really like the stance!! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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It's a lot longer and lower than the Peek Brothers car.
FREUD
It is but I get the same vibe from it and it is a good vibe!
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Yep, it’s got a wicked personality/vibe. All my cars have personality, some more than others and this one’s gone to the extreme (the more personality the better). It’s cut me, bruised me, burnt me and poked holes in me. It definitely has a mind of its own. It should be a great car.
Freud / Trent - When I was youngish I remember seeing the Peek Bros car in Hot Rod, a beautiful car.
I'm waiting for the car to tell me what color it wants, or if it want's any paint at all!
The inspiration for this car was completely local, from the 369 and 716 Roadsters.
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Great looking car Skip!! Can't wait to see it at Bonneville. Great meeting you when I was down for the GNRS.
Rex
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Very Nice Skip.
Richard 2
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Great looking piece of work Skip. What about gloss black with a big cream scallop,and cream top.
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Hi Skip
Your roadster is so nice it rate's a candy & pearl paint job , trimmed with engine turned gold leaf
That would be ' Priceless '
Look at that Studie # 9913 and how nice the paint fits the car
G Don
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A brief high jack - Richard 2, engine measured and sealed on Friday. Now back to your regularly scheduled thread.
DW
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Hi Skip
Your roadster is so nice it rate's a candy & pearl paint job , trimmed with engine turned gold leaf
That would be ' Priceless '
Look at that Studie # 9913 and how nice the paint fits the car
G Don
I agree!
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Saw a 1972 Mustang fastback painted with a candy black base and candy apple red top. Really looked outstanding!!
Think he called Branded Wine, Looked sorta like the edge of Burgundy wine looking at light, but better.
Need to get a smart phone for fotos.
JL222
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Thanks guys for the comments.
Dr. G – Black & Cream, hmmm, I like it, but I’m slacker in the spit & shine department. Would need to up the beer allowance to attract new crew.
Rex – Great meeting you also. You mentioned a tank, PM or call me if you have some info you can pass along.
Don – Also like that color combo; however, beer allowance rule applies.
My test program will eat the nonexistent paint budget. Now, if I had some volunteers, I’d paint in my shed, ala Dr. G - there’s beer here boys!
Trent – thanks, and you have a stunning rendition of the SOSDlakester.
Skip Pipes
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Paint? I thought it was already black and silver... :-D
If you really need to paint it, a case of Rustoleum is about $36 at Home Depot, barely more than a couple of cases of bad beer or a case of good beer.
Staying on budget is important :cheers:
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That looks bitchin Skip, cant wait to see it in person!
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Dr. G – Black & Cream, hmmmm that reminds me of a drink I had in Bremuda ---Black Rum, Ginger beer, and Cream
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Skip, if I could bring my gun and some paint to your place I would love to paint that thing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Just read your build thread again Skip...I know the struggle that you've had to go through to get to this point...it was no easy task..but you really put a great roadster together..a beefy one at that..lol..I'm really stoked to see you finally live out your dream of running at Bonneville..thanks for letting me take part in it...wished I would've came in sooner and spent more time in the garage with you the last few months...really looking forward to this racing season..good job Skip..that THING looks sweet....see you soon Buddie...
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How about something like this in the cream and black..except in reverse with the black as the white
... , noice. :wink:
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_i_AovfzNXgQ/TPsMNd3SJUI/AAAAAAABYic/izd_TR-urw4/s1600/DSC_0632.JPG)
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It must be great when you're at the stage when you have to decide what colour to paint your car.
You even get advice from the members here! :-D
Job done Skip.
Spoiled for choice IMO. :cheers: :cheers:
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Hi Guys,
Thanks for kind comments.
Jorge - Your a great friend and I appreciate all the help, your expert contributions, anytime you can.
As for paint - Stainless carries the day, staying on budget to complete the test program. Why, the chassis has the aforementioned Rustoleum already applied. And I have 2 gallons in reserve. That way I'm not gutted when I have to make changes.
Nonetheless, when the heap performs, the bank account recovers and volunteers arrive for the free beer, Dr G's suggestions will carry the day.
Skip Pipes
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How about something like this in the cream and black..except in reverse with the black as the white
... , noice. :wink:
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_i_AovfzNXgQ/TPsMNd3SJUI/AAAAAAABYic/izd_TR-urw4/s1600/DSC_0632.JPG)
I have a fresh gallon of that blue in PPG Urotech Industrial SS Urethane I can donate to the cause.
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Black
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Ditto Black. :cheers:
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This car is soooooo bitchin'! Wow!
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G'day Skip,
looking awesome, and whilst I appreciate the devil is in the detail, you're smashing it...
Keep chipping away,
Looking forward to seeing this haul butt at the salt.... :-D
Cheers,
Drewfus
P.S. not that my 2c counts, but paint wise, pick your tool of choice, but this one has the connection for me....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v316/DrewfusDesigns/HAMBstuff/XP8240132_JPG.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DrewfusDesigns/media/HAMBstuff/XP8240132_JPG.jpg.html)
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It's alive.
It's been a long road to get here and I can't thank enough those who have helped along the way.
Now it's off to the chassis dyno.
Skip Pipes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlHTkK5hGb0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxV_gOnOASo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCyTofUAP0g
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rTrUlzlvmM
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Hey Skip!!!
Way to go man.
You've come a long way, it looks great and sounds good.
I watched all the vids.
Well done. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Mike.
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Well done Skip. A huge step forward. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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Dude, that's freakin' badass!!
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Excellent Skip! Sounds great, fired right up, not much more a guy can ask for! What a big step in your build. Congratulations! :cheers:
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I know that feeling Skip.
Great Job!
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Love it!
:cheers:
Mike
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Suwheet! Skip
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Fantastic!
Looking forward to running against each other in a little friendly competition. I cant wait to see how that ECU works for you. I keep putting off updating our car with the new ECU because we keep having other things to do in the off season and the current (old) ecu still works OK. Now with you running it, that may be the kick in the ass I need to update 369.
John
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Woohoo!!
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John,
Lets step up! The pressure is on. An AEM in-house race, what prize?
DW
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Skip ur the MAN!!!
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skip, good job you did your homework and it paid off. anthony young :
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Skip,
Great job!!!! To bad it was so hard to start! Sure shows how much prep you did to get it right. Don't you just love EFI!!
Rex
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Hi Guys,
Thanks for all the kind comments. It’s been a longer haul than I expected. What an exceptional experience, and a moment to remember when it fired. I can’t thank enough those who helped and worked on the car. It maybe be my design/project, however, it was your help that made it come together into a running car.
John - Thanks for the kind words.
Friendly competition of an AEM in-house race sounds great, however, I wouldn’t mortgage the house just yet to step up your program. The #369 Roadster is the most sorted roadster running today; it’s in a league of it’s own. It’s what others strive to emulate (me included).
Me, I’m just a simple mechanic who enjoys building racecars ’s. As I anticipate a long learning curve, I’m just happy to run in the shadow of your program. 8-)
Rex – the AEM Infinity worked flawlessly. The switch to AEM was a late change, and I couldn’t be happier. Nathan Stewart is my tuner. He's super talented (brilliant) at sorting and tuning systems, and has put a lot of work/hours into my sub-systems to make it look easy. This evening we put the car on his chassis dyno and will urge the car along tomorrow.
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You're a humble guy and IMO will stand you in good stead up the road.
You did good and the help you got was deserved. :cheers:
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Very cool Skip!
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Great work Skip, for all..... I am slightly disappointed in your decision to not having the white walls to outside. :-D....
Your design and dirt knowledge definately shows not only in the craftsmanship but the thought of what it takes to put the power to the ground in LSR. After all it's all about coming off turn 3 and hooking it up for 5 miles..JD
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Looks and sounds great Skip its coming along great cant wait to hear how it sounds under power. Hope the dyno goes smoothly
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Hi JD - I almost had them mounted out, but I figured I'd get tired of explaining myself :evil:
Here are a few dyno videos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ABrgdwlNvg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXc2SVP9Uag
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8ufe9UtUYM
Also - Here is a Photoshop of how the paint will look. Now I just have to find a volunteer to paint it.
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Nice! :cheers:
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Sweet! :mrgreen:
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were you able to get a reading ??? :evil:
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Hi Al,
Yep, we got readings. Waste Gate was too small and it over-boosted. So I'm finishing off installing a bigger one.
Skip
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This is just awesome! I watched the video about 10 times.
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Great......no decals!
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:cheers:
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Very cool!
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Well, it had it's first test day at El Mirage on Saturday, May 10th. It was fairly windy, but we prevailed.
Did some low speed push tests so I could get a feel for pushing the car. Nathan Stewart will be driving it through the sorting period. He's go lots of experience, gives excellent feedback and is easy to work with. The car worked well.
Skip
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More
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And more pics, plus video of it's first low speed test run at El Mirage, May 10, 2014
I couldn't have done this without the help of my friends.
Skip Pipes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwiH2POTrBw&feature=em-upload_owner
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhTL4bcU2Zg&feature=em-upload_owner
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEBciYjFX9c&feature=em-upload_owner
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tNCR5B7ht6U&feature=em-upload_owner
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And the missing pics
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Great to see it running Skip. Good luck to you guys next weekend
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Man, I love this car!
Mike
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Geez Skip you got your new car all dirty :cry:
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Hi Mike - I'm an old Ford Mechanic so I have a keen appreciation for your car.
Sparky - Yeah, she's not a prissy girl, doesn't mind getting dirty, and likes playing in the dirt :wink:
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Great to see it moving on it's own and I cant wait to see it in person.
I wish you limited success on the F/BGR record! :-P
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Not 'posed to do that. What happened to the blue paint.
DW
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Skip, those pics are excellent.
I hope your testing went well. :cheers:
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Hi Dan,
The blue paint image is a Photoshop rendering of what it would look like if I painted it blue. I'm on spending overload, so paint will have to wait.
JR - Thanks for the words of encouragement :-D
I would have never got this far along without the benefit of looking over you're teams shoulder; thanks again.
Skip Pipes
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excellent that vid of it pulling away from the truck is the best
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Skip, the car looks great! I'm looking forward to seeing it in person! :cheers:
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Bitchin' videos dude! Had to be a great feeling watching your car drive by!!
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hmmmm lets see is this going to be the first outing
of Skip " the Goose Hunter "
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Sparky - I like the moniker. Has a nice ring to it.
Car is on the trailer, leave out in the AM.
Skip Pipes
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LOL
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I CANT WAIT...!.!.!.!..!!.!.!.!!.!.!.!!.!.!.!.!.!.!!.!.!.!!.!!!!
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Hey Skipper! Was great meeting you today! Car looks awesome!
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Skip was unfortunate enough to be on the starting line next up when the meet was eventually called!
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This past weekend we worked with Nathan Stewart /BLACKLINE INDUSTRIES) on his AWD Chassis Dyno on the final tune-ups.
His awesome tuning abilities were on full display as we ran multiple dyno scenarios, which helped develop an El Mirage, tune up, as well as a Bonneville tune up.
For background, it was Nathan who wired the AEM Infinity EFI and gauge/switch package into the car. Nathan works really well with everyone who works with me on the car.
I’m going to pick up a Diesel PU and he’s also going to tune it on the same AWD Chassis dyno. He’s super easy to work with and knows his Subaru. For me, he’s an easy trailer ride over to Costa Mesa, CA.
Here’s a shot of the Goose Hunter at the May Elmo meet.
And, a video of the last dyno pull.
http://youtu.be/kzZFgwzDlJg
Skip
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This past weekend we worked with Nathan Stewart /BLACKLINE INDUSTRIES) on his AWD Chassis Dyno on the final tune-ups.
His awesome tuning abilities were on full display as we ran multiple dyno scenarios, which helped develop an El Mirage, tune up, as well as a Bonneville tune up.
For background, it was Nathan who wired the AEM Infinity EFI and gauge/switch package into the car. Nathan works really well with everyone who works with me on the car.
I’m going to pick up a Diesel PU and he’s also going to tune it on the same AWD Chassis dyno. He’s super easy to work with and knows his Subaru. For me, he’s an easy trailer ride over to Costa Mesa, CA.
Here’s a shot of the Goose Hunter at the May Elmo meet.
And, a video of the last dyno pull.
http://youtu.be/kzZFgwzDlJg
Skip
I hope this is not another attempt of unpaid advertisement. SSS needs $$$$ to help keep LR up and running. Thank you very much SSS :cheers:
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Thanks for the props Skip. I'm super excited to finally (hopefully) make a first pass next weekend. Here's to success. :cheers:
I hope this is not another attempt of unpaid advertisement. SSS needs $$$$ to help keep LR up and running. Thank you very much SSS
God forbid that someone pay me a compliment for my work. :roll:
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...God forbid that someone pay me a compliment for my work. :roll:
How about another one....thanks for the great rookie orientation last year :cheers:.
I see no problem with members on here making comments, good or bad, about suppliers, vendors, service people, etc. as long as they are not obvious attempts at advertisement and are done in the proper manner. I've found help in the LSR world from those types of comments on here and have made them myself. Hopefully Jon will remind any of us if we are overstepping things in doing so,
Sum
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Speed limit
Haha, it was a bit syrupy.
But really, I see both sides and agree the site needs support. That’s why I make a contribution to Slim every year to help keep it going.
And yes, I’m looking for a front row seat (in the push truck) as the car making it’s first sanctioned pass at the next Elmo meet.
Is your Diesel PU market any better than mine; here it's clapped out trucks at the wholesale lots?
Skip Pipes
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The Goose Hunter is going to Bonneville!
So, I’m in need of a Pre-Registration if anyone has one they can part with.
Our record at Elmo this year is spotty with Mother Nature knocking us out of the 1st & 3rd race.
However, I’m pleased with the cars progress to date and we’re setting up the chassis for Bonneville with new up-rated springs, alignment, wheel/tires and weight.
For a couple of old guys (and 1 half our age), I think were doing pretty good here.
The car’s looking good and I’m sure she’s looking forward to stretching her legs and making some strong passes.
Skip Pipes
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Good for you!
BTW, I love you signature line. :cheers:
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:cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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YES......FINALLY THE DAY HAS COME...!!!!!!!!
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Testing today didn’t go well today, so I have 2 rooms available at the Peppermill.
I've posted this on the SW 2014 section
Dates:
Arrive, Friday Aug 8
Depart, Wednesday Aug 13
Room #1 – Mini Suite, Non-Smoking
Room #2 – 2 Queen Beds, Non-Smoking
Skip Pipes
714-404-6495 Cell/California Time
vpipes@socal.rr.com
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I'm sure that's not news anyone wanted.
I feel for you Skip. :cry:
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Bummer Skip.
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Sorry to hear this news. I was looking forward to the battle.
DW
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Ha! Nice avatar there Dan. Tis true... the hunt has been postponed.... for now. :evil:
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Dan I like having points on the board, despite them being goose eggs. I know flattery when I see it, that avatar likeness is a remarkable resemblance to me!
Good luck at SW 2014, and leave some scraps.
Skip Pipes
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Sorry to hear the "Thing" won't be on the salt
Elmer err Skip. :-)
Glad to hear the cooling system works well though....
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So that’s my new nickname, Elmer-err? Kinda grows on you :-D
And yes the cooling system is awesome.
You also have a successful SW.
See you at Elmo in September 8-)
Skip
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Hi Skip
Did something go bang you could not fix in time for SW, that is a tough nut
G Don
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Sorry to hear the "Thing" won't be on the salt Elmer err Skip. :-)
Glad to hear the cooling system works well though....
Fudd, that's hilarious. :-D :-D :-D
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Did something go bang you could not fix in time for SW, that is a tough nut
We've got the new car blues is all. Still sorting out the chassis. Skip engineered in lots of adjustment into the car. Just gotta find the right combo that makes it happy. And no, no bangs. Despite having lots and LOTS of hp on tap, I didn't have to tune it super aggressively to get there. It fires up and purrs like a street car motor and is very docile.... until the boost comes in. We're hoping for some better runs at el mirage and are looking to change the score with those geese guys. :-D :evil:
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I know you two can getter done
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Skip, be warned! Those nicknames can be hard to shake.
I know I have told this story before but when Marlo gave me my moniker many years ago, we were fighting a seemingly impossible to solve bearing issues with my Early Olds.
A few years later and having solved the problem I actually made three passes at the same meet! Eureka!!!
So I approach Marlo and asked if I was now "Three Run" Bob, and he says "Sorry, nicknames earned in LSR are FOR LIFE!
Ol' One Run.............................. out...................... :-P :roll: :-P
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Three run, how many times has that happened since you did it once in a row? :-D
Are you bringing the car to any of the Sep meets or are paying down your sponsor a little this year :roll:
:cheers: