Landracing Forum
Tech Information => EFI Questions => Topic started by: sabat on May 06, 2009, 11:48:12 PM
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I have a strange problem with my '06 Kawasaki ZX10. Turning ignition on cycles the fuel pump, and it shuts off after a few seconds, as expected. However, when the starter is turned on the pump does not cycle back on. If the starter is turned on immediately after the ignition is on the bike starts, then dies when the fuel pump cuts out in a couple seconds. Luckily, I have a second bike, and so far I've swapped with no effect;
Fuel pump relay.
Fuel pump.
ECU.
Battery is 12.5V, all fuses intact. A booster battery makes no difference.
If I turn the ignition on, wait for the pump to cycle off, then turn the key on and off again, the pump will cycle for a shorter duration the second time, but not at all on the third try. I have to wait 30-45 seconds until it the ignition will activate the pump again.
It ran fine 4 weeks ago. All I have changed is the installation of a electronic boost controller, which I unplugged, with no effect. I did have to root around the cramped tailsection to get it situated, but I can't see any obvious problems. I had hoped to go to dyno at MPS this Friday, and race next weekend at Maxton, so if possible I'd like to figure this out ASAP. Any ideas are appreciated.
Dean
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Smart tips from salt pros helped me find a corroded tip-over switch. Thanks folks :cheers:
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i will reignite :roll: this thread as i have a similar, but different problem,,, after a six month rebuild, went to start the ZX12 on the weekend,, no go,, on engaging the starter there is one "squirt" from the injectors, and thats it, even though the starter motor is still cycling,,, have checked fuel pressure at injector log both when the key is activated and during the starting process, reading 48psi, (as per the workshop manual), have swapped out the crankshaft sensor and checked all lock-out switches, the FI warning light on the dash is not on :|
Would appricate any advice towards solving this problem :-)
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Make sure all the ground wires are doing the job. :cheers:
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i will reignite :roll: this thread as i have a similar, but different problem,,, after a six month rebuild, went to start the ZX12 on the weekend,, no go,, on engaging the starter there is one "squirt" from the injectors, and thats it, even though the starter motor is still cycling,,, have checked fuel pressure at injector log both when the key is activated and during the starting process, reading 48psi, (as per the workshop manual), have swapped out the crankshaft sensor and checked all lock-out switches, the FI warning light on the dash is not on :|
Would appricate any advice towards solving this problem :-)
So are you saying the injectors see voltage when starting to crank, but as it continues to crank, no voltage?
Probably absolutely no help at all, but on cars, there are two common things: Anti-Theft (not sure bikes have this) and cranking voltage. When a battery gets old, even though it cranks, the voltage drops so much that the ECU malfunctions. And like above, missing/poor ground to ECU.
I'd also try testing it with ether. Just in case there is a lot of air in the lines.
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i will reignite :roll: this thread as i have a similar, but different problem,,, after a six month rebuild, went to start the ZX12 on the weekend,, no go,, on engaging the starter there is one "squirt" from the injectors, and thats it, even though the starter motor is still cycling,,, have checked fuel pressure at injector log both when the key is activated and during the starting process, reading 48psi, (as per the workshop manual), have swapped out the crankshaft sensor and checked all lock-out switches, the FI warning light on the dash is not on :|
Would appricate any advice towards solving this problem :-)
So are you saying the injectors see voltage when starting to crank, but as it continues to crank, no voltage?
Probably absolutely no help at all, but on cars, there are two common things: Anti-Theft (not sure bikes have this) and cranking voltage. When a battery gets old, even though it cranks, the voltage drops so much that the ECU malfunctions. And like above, missing/poor ground to ECU.
I'd also try testing it with ether. Just in case there is a lot of air in the lines.
Ron,what was the last thing you did?? And check to see if you have a tip-over switch. Got the manual? Should have flow chart of things to check. Of course,does not mean your ecm did not just decide to give up on you.
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my suggestions would be low pressure oil sensor shut down or tip over system and always check the grounds...
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Side stand switch?
Side stand switch wiring?
G
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Neutral safety switch? Clutch engagement switch?
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YEE-HARR,, she goes, :cheers:,,, checked out all as mentioned above, still didnt want to play :cry:,,, had an earlie mark from work this afternoon (christmas shutdown), so when i got home, decided to check and sptay
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oopps :oops:, dont know what happened there :|, anywhay sprayed all "connections" with WD40, and whallar!!! she roared into life 8-),, thankyou to all for the suggestions given to try and fix this problem,, although all the connections in the wiring loom looked fine and clean, there was one not doing its job,,,, now i load the bike up, and drive 1000k south to Brisbane, where, after christmas we play on the dyno :wink:
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Oh the Joys of :evil:electrical gremlins :evil:----but nice little Christmas present :-D :cheers:
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Congrats, and post your results from the dyno, I like those ZX12s.