Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => Build Diaries => Topic started by: Rchop on February 15, 2009, 07:14:09 PM
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I like running in the 750cc pudshrod class. I just sold my last 750cc bike and have started on a new 750cc pushrod build. I am just about finished with the frame and still working on the motor. The motor is a lower end of a Buell XB9 with sportster cyclinders and heads. The XB9 has a 3.125 inch stroke and the 883 cylinders have been bored to 3.050 inches. This gives me a 748cc displacement. I will be running it with the stock XB9 EFI system and I have the software for remapping. I will start with high compression pistons and run it NA. After I get the EFI system figured out, I will change to lower compression pistons and a turbo.
Here is a pic of the frame as it sits now. I still have to build quite a few brackets and add some gussets when I do the final welding. The front end is from an R6 and the rear end is from a GSXR 750.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp54.jpg)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp54.jpg
Here is a pic of the fairings I will be using...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp41.jpg)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp41.jpg
More pics can be seen on my website in the "Rubblemaker" photo gallery
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I split the case yesterday to send the crank in for true, tig and balance. I'm glad I did since I found a problem with the inner pinion bearing race...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp52.jpg)
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp53.jpg)
Just another thing to add to the list :roll:
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Looks a little slicker than the BMW :-D
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Looks a little slicker than the BMW :-D
I hear ya :-D even if it isn't more powerful NA, is should be faster without those jugs hanging out :wink:
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Jugs hanging out????
Read the rule book. Riders have to be completely covered and that includes FEMALES.
At least my daughter does on her roadgoing BMW that she proudly informed me yesterday she just passed 3000 road miles.
However, it's now in the shop -oil leak! She parks too close to her husbands Harley, apparently!
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Randy,
This build is looking good. It looks fast on the bench.
Joe
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Thanks Joe, and I look better dancing in a chair, but that's where it ends :-D :-D I do hope it runs good. Make sure you check your pinion bearing :wink:
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New crankshaft ... Joe
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check the crankcase... not sure on the casting quality of the XB motor but the races can get beat up in a sportster case...
kent
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Cool :-D Just love the Bikes looks likeyou are going to need some fair sized gussets around the headstock area though.
like the streamlining is that off the shelf or have you had it made one off.
Oz
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check the crankcase... not sure on the casting quality of the XB motor but the races can get beat up in a sportster case...
kent
The casting looks pretty good Kent. I found a dull shaded spot on the outer race too, so I will be replacing that also.
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Cool :-D Just love the Bikes looks likeyou are going to need some fair sized gussets around the headstock area though.
like the streamlining is that off the shelf or have you had it made one off.
Oz
Gussets are planned for the headstock connections, the fairings are standard issue "Charlie Toy LSR" made by Kent's company, AirTech.
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Jugs hanging out????
Read the rule book. Riders have to be completely covered and that includes FEMALES.
At least my daughter does on her roadgoing BMW that she proudly informed me yesterday she just passed 3000 road miles.
However, it's now in the shop -oil leak! She parks too close to her husbands Harley, apparently!
LOL, keep those BMW's away from the Harleys, they pick up bad habits :wink:
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Very Nice I didnt realise Air Tech was kents company.
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Hi Rchop....looking at your pics of the crank brought back an old memory (all of 'em being old at this point). First, a question.... are those marks just on one side of the crank journal? If so, this may be brinneling like we suffered with Honda CL450 back in 1971-72.
Seems the "batwing" tank paint was kinda' unpopular (on those Scramblers) and sales tailed off....just when the dockworkers went on strike on the West coast. Honda wound up unloading bikes in Ensenada, where they sat on the docks (crated) for MONTHS! Electrolysis set in and Brinneled the crankshafts where they were resting on the bearing rollers. I had to change a few cranks, when the bikes we sold started knocking within the first couple hundred miles!
If your engine was sitting in a wrecking yard, for a long time, that could be what happened. If that is it, be aware that Brinneling due to electrolysis goes deep into the dendrice (of the crystalized iron). The crank can be hard faced and refinished, but polishing (only) will not last.
Hope this helps....or I could be completely off base!! That's how it works on this site. :-D :-P
Regards, anyway, JimL
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That makes sense to me Jim. I bought the engine on eBay, so who knows how long it sat. The marks are just where they are shown in the picture on one side. The bearing also shows a few pits in the rollers. The race is actually a seperate piece from the crank pinion shaft, so I am having new inside and outside races installed with a new roller bearing and lap alignment of the outer race. No sense in taking any chances since I want to turn this motor over 8K rpms.
Thanks
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This is a little remote for this thread but might be useful information for some.
I've noticed that brinneling of some wheel bearings in new cars, trucks motorcycles and construction equipment is common. I believe a most of the damage is caused by transporting the vehicle with the weight on the wheels, tracks or axles. The railroad, lowbeds or unsprung trailers would be probably be the worst offenders.
I bought a new '57 Dodge pickup and had about 100 miles on it when I heard a squeak in a front wheel. I could hear OK then. When I pulled the wheel off I found the wheel bearing had very little grease in it. I also found out it had four thin lines etched into the bearing cup. I inspected the cone and found four rollers with matching lines on them. I pulled the other front wheel off. It had enough grease in it but had the same marks on the bearing. I was a mechanic/welder in construction for over 40 years so I tried to look at the wheel bearings in all of the new equipment when it came to the yard or job site as soon as possible. Probably 90% of them had these same marks if they ran in grease. If they ran in oil they where almost all perfect. I believe the movement of the equipment (jarring) moved the grease out first and then damaged the bearing.
This doesn't only happen to the wheel bearings ,other heavy Assemblies can also be damaged. So if you're going to long haul your race car/bike block it up with the wheels off the trailer floor and make sure the trailer is sprung. Wouldn't hurt to crank the engine up when you stop to eat either. Those roller bearings in the engine are getting the oil beat out of them too.
Boy is this longwinded!
Harvey
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Thanks for the info Harvey. Rotating the crank on a long road trip, is probably a good idea :cheers:
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That sounded dirty Rchop.
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:-D :-D :-D
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What is Brinneling??
Bruising ,Marking the bearing surface?
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What is Brinneling??
Bruising ,Marking the bearing surface?
Here is the definition of Brinelling...
Brinelling refers to a material surface failure caused by contact stress that exceeds the material limit. This failure is caused by just one application of a load great enough to exceed the material limit. The result is a permanent dent or "brinell" mark.
What we have on my engine is a case of "False Brinelling"...
False brinelling is damage caused by fretting, with or without corrosion, that causes imprints that look similar to brinelling, but are caused by a different mechanism.
The basic cause of false brinelling is that lubricant is pushed out of a loaded region. Without lubricant, wear is increased. It is possible for the resulting wear debris to oxidize and form an abrasive compound which further accelerates wear.
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Cool got it
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The seating position has been determined and now I'm mocking up the fuel tank that will be mounted behind the rider...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp55.jpg)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp55.jpg
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The seating position has been determined and now I'm mocking up the fuel tank that will be mounted behind the rider...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp55.jpg)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp55.jpg
Gas tank? Looks like you need an extension cord for that motor! :-D
Looking good, keep up the build dairy! :cheers:
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LOL, just wait till you see the battery :-D
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get the knees in Randy, they are hanging out past the fairing..... surly your boys haven't needed to get that large already.... :roll:
I thought the beemer was easy to ride..... :-D
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Before you finalize your riding position, make sure it works with leathers and helmet. I set mine up wearing jeans and got a big surprise when I got to the starting line and couldn't get my feet on the pegs!
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get the knees in Randy, they are hanging out past the fairing..... surly your boys haven't needed to get that large already.... :roll:
I thought the beemer was easy to ride..... :-D
I actually cut and re-formed the rear of the frame to get my knees in Bob. I'll post a pic of the area tonight when my wife gives me back the high-speed modem :wink:
Before you finalize your riding position, make sure it works with leathers and helmet. I set mine up wearing jeans and got a big surprise when I got to the starting line and couldn't get my feet on the pegs!
I have tried the position with the leathers and helmet on Tom, but I'm not posting a pic of it...I'll never hear the end of it :roll: LOL
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Randy, Randy, oh Randy silly boy what are ya doing.?.... why ya putting the fuel tank back there? have ya ever rode a fat chick on the back of a bike? The fuel load, even considering it is a dissipating weight, should not be that high and especially back that far back... you should mount your light weight electronics back there... and put the tank where it belongs....
love ya
Kent
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You could stick it under the seat it would lower the centre of gravity.....Nice and stable!
Just a thought
Oz
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Randy, Randy, oh Randy silly boy what are ya doing.?.... why ya putting the fuel tank back there? have ya ever rode a fat chick on the back of a bike? The fuel load, even considering it is a dissipating weight, should not be that high and especially back that far back... you should mount your light weight electronics back there... and put the tank where it belongs....
love ya
Kent
That tank will hold less than 2 gallons Kent, do ya really think that small amount of weight would make that much difference back there? I could build one that fit right under my chest and belly on the top of the frame if you think it would be better, but it's still high. No other place to put it other than right behind the front wheel on the front of the frame.
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Oz, unfortunately, there is no room under the seat. Bob, you can see the part of the frame I remade here. I pulled in the top frame rails so my knees fit right in beside the oil tank...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp56.jpg)
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp57.jpg)
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Randy, Randy, oh Randy silly boy what are ya doing.?.... why ya putting the fuel tank back there? have ya ever rode a fat chick on the back of a bike? The fuel load, even considering it is a dissipating weight, should not be that high and especially back that far back... you should mount your light weight electronics back there... and put the tank where it belongs....
love ya
Kent
That tank will hold less than 2 gallons Kent, do ya really think that small amount of weight would make that much difference back there? I could build one that fit right under my chest and belly on the top of the frame if you think it would be better, but it's still high. No other place to put it other than right behind the front wheel on the front of the frame.
Randy, I think Kent is saying putting the weight that high and far back can affect you handling.
Scott
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Just hauled 10 gallons of paint on the rearmost part of my Ranger pickup 2day- from my shop to my home - 3/4 mile.
I could FEEL the difference in balance with four wheels and I'm older than belly button lint.
On yer scooter it's gonna effect the Cg/Cp relationship and the vertical polar moment.
Maybe a re-think is necessary?
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Randy, I think Kent is saying putting the weight that high and far back can affect you handling.
Scott
I understood that part Scott, it's just that I have lost about 20 pounds since I have last raced. If I hadn't lost it, would the bike handle bad? Most of it was near where the tank would be :-P
I'm concerned about mounting the tank in the front lower part of the frame. Would that be considered some type of streamlining if I run unfaired in the "a" class?
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On yer scooter it's gonna effect the Cg/Cp relationship and the vertical polar moment.
Maybe a re-think is necessary?
I think you and Kent are probably right :cheers:
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Randy, guys run oil tanks down low and in front all the time. Ya probably couldn't get away with making it like a chin fairing but you could do it. Myself, I think along the backbone would be better in your case. Also, as long as your bike is gonna be it will save you 30' in fuel line. Besides, since you've lost all this weight you need to fill that void...
On yer scooter it's gonna effect the Cg/Cp relationship and the vertical polar moment.
Maybe a re-think is necessary?
I definately agree...
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Hi fellas....note to add about "rear mounted fuel". I used to make some long runs on my old Transalp, so I started using a Tour Master "rack bag" to carry a 2 gallon gas can. After a few trips, it finally dawned on me that... if I put the 2 gallons of fuel in the bike, when my main tank got low, the bike didn't constantly wobble at anything over 70 MPH!!
I could strap solid items on back, and not really notice it, but liquid?? NO WAY!!
The old CHP Kawasaki 1000s had a pivoted, shock dampened, rear service box due to wobble problems with weight behind/above the rear wheel. I got the whole story from an officer that stopped me, one night, to talk about riding my Buell with both wheels on the ground. We sure learn some neat stuff, in strange ways! :roll:
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It's a good thing I was just in the mock-up stage with the rear mounted fuel tank. That's what I like about this site, there's alot of experience out there that will prevent me from making mistakes during my build. Thanks guys, as always, all comments and suggestions are appreciated :cheers:
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Any room under you? Even if you sit on the tank and it raises you 2 inches you can fair that with the tail. Also look at under the frame... what will be air space with the fairing on, that is probably where you should put your gas :|
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Putting it under the frame might be the best way to go Bob. I made it with about 6 inches of clearance so I could fit a belly pan under there. If I use half of that space with a tank, it would probably work, thanks.
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So, with all the "suggestions" about the tail mounted tank, I have decided to mount the tank under the frame. I will be running without the fairing for most of this year and I have to use a fuel pump anyway, since it's fuel injected. If there's a conflict with the fairing bellypan when I run with the fairing, I can make a couple of side mounted "tube tanks" like I had on my last bike. At least this one will stay out of the windstream when running unfaired. I made a tank that will hold about 2.3 gallons and I will put a couple of baffles in it before I weld the ends up.
Here's what it looks like now...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp58.jpg)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp58.jpg
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp59.jpg)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp59.jpg
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I have fabricated 2 baffle plates and attached them to the inside of the tank using a portable spot welder. Now I can close up the ends and install the petcock bung...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp60.jpg)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp60.jpg
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp61.jpg)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp61.jpg
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Hope you have plans to protect it from punctures.
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Hope you have plans to protect it from punctures.
It's made from 16ga steel with a 10ga front panel and I will make some kind of shield between it and the front tire.
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Randy, if something is picked up off the track by your front tire that will penetrate either the .060 or the .134, you are in a lot more trouble than a little gas leak... the front tire will likely be flat.... :-o If anything I would add a piece of .134 to the bottom for about 6 inches back from the front.
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Randy, if something is picked up off the track by your front tire that will penetrate either the .060 or the .134, you are in a lot more trouble than a little gas leak... the front tire will likely be flat.... :-o If anything I would add a piece of .134 to the bottom for about 6 inches back from the front.
That has been the plan all along Bob. I want to put some kind of shield in the front including the front of the bottom.
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Not a biker -- but a little skid plate weight down there surely wouldn't hurt.
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I haven't quite finalized the "skid plate" design yet. Usually when I approach something like that, I spend a lot of time just looking at it while I come up with different ideas in my head. Usually one comes up that is better than all the rest and then I start fabricating.
It's been called the "TLAR" engineering principle.
TLAR= That looks about right
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I have a question about the "tank protector" I want to install. I have 2 ideas...one is like a simple skid plate that has been recommended and the other is curved horizontally in front of the tank with a bottom plate also. Both are designed to deflect anytyhing picked up by the front tire. The question is: will either of these designs disqualify me from running in the "unfaired" class, such as A/PBG?
Here are pics of each mocked up with cardboard...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp64.jpg)
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp63.jpg)
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randy
not as you have it mocked up as you have it now.... if you round the front or change the front into an aero pleasing shape it probably wont fly..... Tatro made a curved oil bag in front of his motor on the single and tech had him install a flat panel in front of it...
Kent
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Ok, thanks for the response Kent. So, a plate made like the top pic should be good then?
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:-D
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The tank has been welded, leak checked and painted with some "bedliner" material. The mounting tabs will be drilled when the frame tabs are installed. I will make a protective plate out of the .180 aluminum plate behind it...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp65.jpg)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp65.jpg
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The steering damper came in Friday. Unfortunately it came with a 47mm fork tube clamp and I have 43mm fork tubes. Not a real problem since I found this new one for only $152. I just have to find a 43mm clamp now...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp62.jpg)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp65.jpg
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The tank has been welded, leak checked and painted with some "bedliner" material. The mounting tabs will be drilled when the frame tabs are installed. I will make a protective plate out of the .180 aluminum plate behind it...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp65.jpg)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp65.jpg
will you be able to turn off petcock from riding position?
pingel makes a nice remote controlled one. about $200.
franey
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Franey, I'm guessing electric since flowing gas uphill defies gravity... no petcock shutoff from seated required...
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electric might have been mentioned in an earlier post.
going off the pic, got me thinking petcock needed to be shut off also.
franey
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In the interest of safety, I the installed the petcock where I could easily reach it by my left foot inside the frame rail. I will probably extend the bottom plate a little past the rear end of the tank to protect the petcock also. The fuel pump will be mounted beside the left side of the tank below the frame rail. I will probably have to weld a steel tube to the bottom of the frame rail to cover the fuel pump also. The problem with mounting the fuel stuff low is the extra protection, but I've found simple solutions to those issues.
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We'll want the fuel shutoff to be able to be operated without removing your hands from the bars -- but only if you're running nitromethane. Either electric or cable (thumb-actuated) is acceptable. You can get the thumb type from Pingel.
If you're running nitrous or gas -- a manually-operated petcock is good enough, assuming you've got electric fuel pump/solenoids -- so that when you use the thumb or finger-operated kill switch on the bars -- the pump/solenoid goes to "off".
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I don't know how to do nitromethane Jon. I'll just be doing gas, so I have the second part of your statement covered.
Thanks
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rechop you are in the bonneville salt flat discussions---if your kill lanyard and your ignition kill switch shut off your electric fuel pump you are good to go---any unvalved fuel line (line from tank to pump and any tank crossover line) will need a fire sleeve cover or metal braided or hard line ---the gas class is for event approved gas with a sealed tank only --the fuel class is for anything that you want to run or an unsealed tank willie buchta
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I could be wrong but I think even metal braided fuel line still needs firesleeve on unvalved runs.seemed strange to me but I have done any?all unvalved runs regardless of rubber or braided.Hope I am right on that coz the stuff aint cheap.
TTFN Oz
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here is the rule---------All non-valved portions of fuel or gas lines (including saddle tank crossover lines) shall have fire-resistant or fireproof connectings lines and fittings. aero/quip fire sleeve meets this requirement.
very clear to me willie buchta
on our bikes we cover all lines with fire sleeve although we dont have to
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rechop you are in the bonneville salt flat discussions---if your kill lanyard and your ignition kill switch shut off your electric fuel pump you are good to go---any unvalved fuel line (line from tank to pump and any tank crossover line) will need a fire sleeve cover or metal braided or hard line ---the gas class is for event approved gas with a sealed tank only --the fuel class is for anything that you want to run or an unsealed tank willie buchta
I dont want to appear thick but it looks to me from this statement that stainless braided hose constitutes fire sleeve is this the case?
As I said all my unvalved runs regardless of braided or rubber are also fire sleeved so it dosent really matter to me but I didnt think that braided hose was fire resistant.
Oz
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the rule says that fire resistant line is ok but any thing else will require a fire sleeve---there is a period before the last sentence -- leave off the last sentence and read it --- then add the last sentence back on --does it make sense now willie buchta
while on the subject of steel braided line --my friend had a problem on a bike he built --the engine was rubber mounted--the engine didnt have a good ground --the line from the tank to the carb was the only ground the engine had ---do yourself a favor and run a ground from the neg. side of the battery to the frame and one to the motor life will be a lot easier
oz i found this and it works good so far just make sure your jets all flow the same willie buchta
http://www.coldfusionn2o.com/calculator.html
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Not really, English was never my strong point at school and I didnt really enjoy it.I was more into Metalwork,Engineering,Woodwork, and the like. I did get a very good result on my City and Guilds though.
I will take it that Braided is "Fire Resistant" and dosent need Fire sleeve then.
Maybe something is getting lost in translation you say Tomato we say well Tomato aswell but it sounds different
Oz 45 and a bit
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The question is if steel braided lines are fireproof/resistant..
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John a good point---resistant means capable of or exhibiting resistance so just about anything that wasnt flamable would be fire resistant---not even hard lines are fire proof ---so that leaves us with the rule ---fire proof of fire resistant lines are ok --if they arnt fire proof or fire resistant then fire sleeve will make it through tech---my advice is to fire sleeve everything ---and dont use tiwraps to hold it on use stainless steel clamps just some thoughts willie buchta
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Thanks for all the responses guys, but I'm actually pretty familiar with fuel control and line requirements from my last build. The questions I brought up here were about protecting the fuel tank at it's low location. My whole fuel system will be -6AN fittings and stainless braided line.
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I'm finally moving forward...almost.
I received the crankshaft and engine case back from the machinist. The pinion shaft bearing and races have been replaced and align bored. The crankshaft/flywheels have been balanced, trued and tig welded.
I had a set of high compression pistons made to run NA before the turbo goes on and I started to fit them to the rods only to find out they need more machining to fit the XB9 rods. So, back to the piston manufacturer they go :-P
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp66.jpg)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp66.jpg
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Most of the spring planting is done, so I got to spend some time working on the bike today. This new fangled fuel injection stuff is new to me, so I'm learning as I go. I installed my fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator and found out I need to run a return line back to the fuel tank.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp68.jpg)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp68.jpg
This means I have to weld another bung in the tank for the return line.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp69.jpg)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp69.jpg
I also built the exhaust. The fuel line coming up the front of the bike with the little air filter is the tank vent with a tip-over valve.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp70.jpg)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp70.jpg
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what are those jap bike parts doin on that american motorcycle?.......
kent
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what are those jap bike parts doin on that american motorcycle?.......
kent
Hey Kent, check the pedigree of a lot of parts on American Motorcycles... :| it is a global effort... I think everyone should use the best parts they can find... or the most inexpensive high quality parts... In either case, the croch rocket crowd puts a lot of parts in the used market.
Lookin good... :cheers:
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what are those jap bike parts doin on that american motorcycle?.......
kent
As long as the youngsters buy the fast bikes, wad them up on the street and sell what's left on eBay...I'll keep buying the parts. I'm an equal opprotunity bike builder :cheers:
(I think I learned that from you and Randy)
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Thanks Bob, that regulator came with instructions LOL
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We'll want the fuel shutoff to be able to be operated without removing your hands from the bars -- but only if you're running nitromethane. Either electric or cable (thumb-actuated) is acceptable. You can get the thumb type from Pingel.
Hi Slim; I checked Pingel's website , I may very well be a bit dim, but I can't find'em.
Could you possibly point me in the right direction.
Thanks.
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Lars, check this link http://www.pingelonline.com/guzzler_valve.htm
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Thanks a lot!
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Today I worked on the air intake box. I fabricated the 9 inch round backplate...for the third time :x. I cut the first two plates from some 18ga stainless steel I had and ended up with 2 oil can bottoms. You could pop them back and forth just like an old oil can. I got out a bucket of ice water and the torch and tried to shrink the metal, but no joy. Sheet metal work isn't my strong point, so I finally cut a new one out of some 16ga mild steel and it remained flat. Now I have to paint it...dang! The intake tubing is 2.5 inch aluminum tubing and I will have a bellmouth made for the front.
Now I just have to decide how deep I want the box and make a cover.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp71.jpg)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp71.jpg
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp72.jpg)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp72.jpg
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp73.jpg)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp73.jpg
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The air box cover has been meticulously fabricated and finished using proven TLAR* engineering...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp74.jpg)
...What's that Honey? No I haven't seen your salad bowl...why do you ask? :roll:
* That Looks About Right
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Things have finally gotten back to normal around here and it's been too hot to work outside, so I'm able to work on the bike again. The airbox show on the previous pictures was too high. I had to put my arm around the outside of the box to reach the controls.
I decided to rotate the box down 180 degrees and run the intake in through the cover instead of the back. I will weld the opening in the back closed...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp78.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp78.JPG
I installed the intake tube in the cover with the outlet pointed away from the TB intake...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp79.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp79.JPG
This ended up being a much simpler installation than the previous one...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp77.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp77.JPG
This setup will be used only while I get a feel for the adjustments needed on the fuel injection system. Once I get the hang of that, I will install some different pistons and fit the turbo to the bike.
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Airbox backplate is complete with IAT sensor and bung for the MAP sensor. Exhaust pipes are complete.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp81.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp81.JPG
Top motor mount/coil mount is complete.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp83.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp83.JPG
Instrument panel and data logger are mounted.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp86.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp86.JPG
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I'm not sure how well this throttle cable routing will work. We will see when the bike hits the floor.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp87.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp87.JPG
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Is that an EGT sensor in the top of the rear pipe? The bike is looking great.
Fred
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Is that an EGT sensor in the top of the rear pipe? The bike is looking great.
Fred
Thanks Fred, that's the factory (single wire)oxygen sensor in the stock location for the Buell fuel injection. I have another self heating O2 sensor at the Y in the pipes for the data logger.
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Did a little work to relocate the throttle assy guide hole on the clip-on and re-aligned the throttle cables in a much better direction...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp89.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp89.JPG
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I decided not to use the Charlie Toy LSR fairing on this bike. That fairing was very wide for my build and I didn't want to narrow it since I have a GSXR frame that I'm going to use it on...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp92.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp92.JPG
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I talked with Kent at Airtech and we decided on an appropriate fairing. The S&S fairing is a much narrower LSR fairing and should present a smaller frontal area for the bike. I picked up the S&S this morning at my local shipping depot. It was as expected, another quality product from Airtech.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp90.JPG)
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp91.JPG)
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Like the fairing ... perfect for a V-Twin ... please post the mounting system you devise for it ... Joe
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bike looks great randy, you gonna make it to the salt
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Like the fairing ... perfect for a V-Twin ... please post the mounting system you devise for it ... Joe
Will do, Joe.
bike looks great randy, you gonna make it to the salt
Thanks, unfortunately I won't get salty this year. Looking forward to next year though.
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I finally healed up after my little shop accident and got back to work. I'm not going to make the September Maxton meet but October will be fine. The tail fairing and battery have been installed. The shifter has been fabricated and installed with the side stand. I have a couple more brackets and chain covers to make along with a small chin fairing to protect the front of the gas tank. Then, it will all come apart for final welding and gussets...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp97.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp97.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp98.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp98.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp99.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp99.JPG
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so randy
we could use a good laugh..... what kind of little shop accident?
inquiring minds need to know laugh!
kent
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so randy
we could use a good laugh..... what kind of little shop accident?
inquiring minds need to know laugh!
kent
Typical dumb as* mistake Kent. I was cutting some angle iron in the vise using the angle grinder with a 4 inch cut-off wheel.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp94.JPG)
The steel moved in the vise and I grabbed it with my left hand to steady it while holding the grinder with the right. When I got to the last 1/8 inch, the blade grabbed the steel and it threw the grinder/cut-off wheel into my left forearm and then into my chest. It wrapped itself up in my t-shirt and I couldn't turn it off. As I reached down to pull the
plug, I saw this on the floor...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp93.JPG)
A quick trip to the emergency room and 9 stitches in my left forearm solved the problem :|
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Oh, that's no so funny. Glad you are OK.
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Thanks Dean, It one of those things that you do a thousand times and then... :-o
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come on chopz...... i was hoping for something funnier like.." i then woke up on the floor bleeding like a stuck pig with the dog licking my face.... i could tell the look in the dogs eyes.... he was saying do it again you dumb azz do it again!"
love ya
Kent
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Kent, you could write comedy for Jesse James next adventure.
FREUD
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Well, I wish I could blame this on you and Randy, Kent, but I own this one :cheers: I still remember to never take piece of freshly welded metal for Mr (no working nerves in his hands) Randy Nelson :-o LOL, I learned that the hard way too!
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Us clumsy ones are entertaining, that's for sure! I was amazed they could find room in the palm of my right hand for 43 stitches....when all I was doing was reaching for an engine that was tipping off the cart. When the doctor asked "what are these grooves between these two bones?", I told him, "I'm pretty sure 6mm by 1.0 thread pitch."
This reminds me of my "get rich quick plan" for a line of "Tim from Tooltime" tools:
- a hammer with insulated handle and slide in blue ice tube....so you can pop the handle bottom cap and stick your smashed thumb in the ice tube
- a screwdriver with a roll of pull-out butterfly bandages in the handle....nice for puncture wounds
- a box end wrench assortment with velcro loop strips near each end...to splint broken fingers right onto the wrench
- a step ladder with quick detachable back legs....that turn into crutches
- a chainsaw with quick disconnect starter cord...that serves as a tourniquet
...there must be more.
Good to see your project going again, and nice to see pics of your shop!
Thanks!
JimL
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dude Ive had worse blamed on me than making a friend bleed..... actually you shouldn't stand really close to me when i work, kinda out of da impact zone as they would say.... hey ya know stuff happens.... stick to the dog part Randy.... chicks dig scarz ya know
Kent
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is that shift linkage PURPLE?
kr
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Thanks Jim, this is the first time I've had stitches from an accident in my 55 years!
Kent, I do know better than to stand around you when you're flogging a build (SOP) at the last minute LOL. I special ordered that linkage from Speedway Motors in "Airtech" purple, I figured you'd like it :roll:
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I would post a picture of my recent injury however Slim, OSHA or my insurance company might have an issue with it.. :-o
Glad to hear you will be OK Randy.. :cheers:
J
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I would post a picture of my recent injury however Slim, OSHA or my insurance company might have an issue with it.. :-o
Glad to hear you will be OK Randy.. :cheers:
J
thanks John, hmmmmm....now that leaves alot to the imagination :-D
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John, send the photos and descriptions to me and I'll have Nancy make the judgement on whether the visual is worth putting on the site.
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wholly sheeeet... stuff happens quickly. Glad you were not hurt worse.
In my middle aged years , Something I wear near full time when I am in my shop is safety glasses... not to mention that they are bi-focal safety glasses so I can see stuff close up. :-D
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Thanks Tony, I had a full face shield and gloves on. Next time I'll remember to wear some steel mesh sleeves too :-o
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http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php/topic,5479.0.html willie buchta
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http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php/topic,5479.0.html willie buchta
http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php/topic,5551.105.html
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The fuel tank is mounted low and behind the front wheel. I am going to run unfaired first, so I have made a tank protector to mount in the front of the tank...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp100.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp100.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp101.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp101.JPG
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The front, top motor mount has been fabricated. The fuel tank vent and tip-over valve go through the middle of the motor mount. The vent filter will be surrounded by the neck gussetts. This should put the vent in a good dead-air space...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp102.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp102.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp103.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp103.JPG
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I finished my primary chain cover. This covers the short chain that runs from the transmission to the jackshaft...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp104.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp104.JPG
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Looks fantastic. I really enjoy the bike builds. They are so different from the cars yet I still find some engineering I can steal... a... borrow.
The best thing.... No blood
Geo
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rchop,
build continues to look good. where did you
get tipover valve?
franey
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Thanks for the comments guys. If I remember right, the tip over valve was from Summitt. Look under external tip over valve.
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The ECTA rules for steering stop angle at Maxton are different than the SCTA rules at Bonneville. I decided to make a stop block that can be rotated to meet one or the other by just loosening and turning it 90 degrees...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp106.JPG)
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Nice idea, Randy. On one of our bikes we've drilled and tapped the tabs that were the factory stops. We inserted a screw and use locknuts to hold it at whatever location we desire - to get the required steering angle maximum. I like you way -- lots less work, and although it has only two possible ways -- that's just enough.
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2 clearances ... one part ... no loose components to forget ... I like it
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is that a 5/16 or 3/8 randy?..... 3/8 has a way higher shear than 5/16..... just a thought...
kent
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That's a 5/16 grade 8 Kent.
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Thanks for the comments guys. If I remember right, the tip over valve was from Summitt. Look under external tip over valve.
found on pg. 50 of current cat.
franey
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Thanks for the comments guys. If I remember right, the tip over valve was from Summitt. Look under external tip over valve.
found on pg. 50 of current cat.
franey
The valve shown on pg 50 is for a fuel cell. If that's what you're looking for...OK. If you're looking for an external mounted one like mine, it's different.
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it is a lot bigger on the ends than i'd like.(6an , 8an) .
my breather is w/ 1/8 pipe. lot of reducers.
steer stop is nice. does the way pictured give
30* total swing? 15 each direction?
franey
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My breather bung is 1/8 npt also. the 1/8th to 6 AN adapter screws into the bung, so there aren't a bunch of other adapters. I haven't put a protractor on the steering stop yet, so I will let you know when I do.
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thanks,
franey
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The final mock-up is complete and now it's time to finish the build.
The wheels have been powdercoated, with new bearings, seals and tires installed...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp108.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp108.JPG
I have a growing amount of fabricated, renewed, and repainted parts...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp109.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp109.JPG
The frame is almost complete as final welding is done and gussets are added...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp107.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp107.JPG
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Sometimes life and commitments outside the shop get in the way of a build. This has been the case since September and I have finally completed all the outside list. I finally got back to the build and finished off the frame construction. It has been primed and hung in the large shop for painting. We have been blessed with fantastic weather lately, so the painting should go quickly.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp111.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp111.JPG
I also painted and baked the cylinders and heads with some high heat paint. I have been using Duplicolor high heat silver on my heads and cylinders for a long time now and it has proven itself when properly heat cured. Unfortunately, it looks so good, I'm going to have repaint the rest of the light colored parts of the engine...drat!
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp110.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp110.JPG
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The first fit for all the new engine parts..
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp115.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp115.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp116.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp116.JPG
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The new frame is ready for assembly...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp112.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp112.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp113.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp113.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp114.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp114.JPG
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Randy, that silver paint makes it look like you "photoshopped" the heads and cylinders. Great look -- and if it holds up the way you say it does -- you'll have Glen complaining about your bike being too shiny and hard to see!
Thanks for posting your build diary. We appreciate seeing the project go together.
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Thanks Jon. I have been using that paint on heads and cylinders for many years of BMW restoration and custom builds. It has held up well for me. Now that I don't have to rush to make a race meet deadline, I can step back and pay attention to all the details. This bike will look good, I just hope it's faster than the last one :wink:
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I also painted and baked the cylinders and heads with some high heat paint. I have been using Duplicolor high heat silver on my heads and cylinders for a long time now and it has proven itself when properly heat cured. Unfortunately, it looks so good, I'm going to have repaint the rest of the light colored parts of the engine...drat!
Looks Great!
I was wondering about the specifics of how you heat cure the paint......or are the directions on the can? :-)
Thanks,
Mark
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The directions are on the can. I have used used the oven before, but the wife doesn't let me do that anymore :-P. I set up an old bar-b-que with firebrick in place of the grill and use that now. The 500 degree engine enamel I used on the engine block doesn't need to be heat cured, but the 1200 degree paint I use on the heads and cylinders, is heat cured and has never burned or colored on me. The can says: For maximum hard, high heat resistance, cure at 300 deg. for 2 hours, or 400 deg for 1.5 hours, or 600 deg for 1 hour. Finish will be resistant to temps up to 1200 degrees F. as well as most solvents, salts and humidity.
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just to say that with over 2 years until i get back to race at bonneville-this thread and the many great pictures are keeping the 'sfever' at high pitch here in cold and wet england-
although all the airtech products we have used in drag racing over the years are of the top shelf variety-it would be a shame to cover up such a good looking bike-but numbers is numbers-
great thread-
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Thanks for the comments. I took some time off for the holiday, but I'm just getting back to it now. More pics coming soon.
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Final assembly is the most fun part of the build...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp117.JPG)
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Some Assembly Required...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp118.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp118.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp119.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp119.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp120.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp120.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp121.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp121.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp122.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp122.JPG
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Randy, I've got to ask how you take such good photos. The lighting is dandy. I suffered through some attempts to shoot shiny parts today and got the usual crappy results. Good fill light? Diffused flash? How'd you do it?
And as for the subject of the photos -- sure looks like nice work there. Anybody would be proud to have such a project underway in his shop.
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Thanks Jon, I appreciate the comments. A wide angle lens and good fill light with no flash is the trick with the shiny parts. The shop has 8' HO lights above and I usually add a small light on the bottom when shooting dark areas like the last 2 pics.
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Jon,candles wont work with the brownie box camera. :-D
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Glen -- that sounds like the opening line to a joke I once heard. Did you hear -- wait a minnit, this isn't Friday. Maybe then.
It's darn near a blizzard outside -- 11F and snowing like a bandit. Time to get in the waterbed with Nancy. See you folks tomorrow.
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ENJOY the blizzard????????? :-D
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Sometimes takes awhile but the truth always emerges. Now we know the real meaning behind "loving all the snow" remarks over the years from way up North! :wink:
Looks like Randy has the photo lighting dialed in Jon, better follow his lead there and save the candles for the snow storms. :evil:
Ed
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Well, you see -- there's an ulterior motive in my question. Nancy and I recently bought a new (small) business and need to take a bunch of photos of the (small) items - so we can publish them on our (new) site. And since the product is mostly very shiny -- I'm learning that part of "commercial" photography. I'll be scoring some extra lighting and diffusers today so I can get photos this afternoon when I go to the new place.
No, I'm not quite ready to tell you all what we've bought -- want, for certain reasons, to keep it a surprise 'til I'm ready to go public. But -- it's in a very vague and distant way, related to something that's important to many of us in land speed racing. It IS NOT parts or services directly related -- so don't be asking if I'll give you a good deal on dyno time or speed parts.
Further deponent sayeth not.
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What a tease!! :-D
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Jon, try a 50mm lense if you can. That is the closest to what the human eye sees and good for up close work. You can go down further for real close-up work, but then you have to watch out for fish-eye effect on the outside edges of your pic. I'm no expert by any means, so take my advice for what it's worth :wink:
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Thanks, Randy. I've received suggestions from others. I've got a tripod for today, as well as a few fill light devices. We'll see if I can do better this time.
TTFN.
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Jon:
A light tent would give you great pictures at minimal cost. They're available at most photo supply stores and are very popular with the E-Bay crowd. Any camera that allows you to fill the frame with the object being photographed will do the trick.
Good luck!
Pete
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Mechanical construction is complete. Now it's time to install the EFI computer and wire all the sensors and controls.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp127.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp127.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp128.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp128.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp129.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp129.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp130.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp130.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp131.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp131.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp132.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp132.JPG
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It's ALIVE !!
I have become an instant fan of EFI. This thing started easier than any carbed bike I have ever built :cheers:
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what EFI are you using randy
kent
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I'm using a stock system right now Kent, but I have a microsquirt system I would like to learn eventually.
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Like all your stuff, lookin' good!
Noise and motion at April Maxton?
Ed
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Yep, save me a seat at that banquet table Ed, I'll be there.
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Randy, what year ecm? Had good luck tuning the 03-07 ones with ECM-Spy.(Got a big bore XB-9 on dyno as we speak!) You can get a cable from Al at American Sportbike.
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My ECM is 2003. I bought an ECM-Spy cable and software about a year ago. Do you mind if I contact you if I have questions when I get into it?
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I was having problems with the temp sensor output into the ECM. I had to relocate the sensor when the second spark plug was installed in it's location. The stock Buell EFI system is known for running very rich until the rear head is up to operating temp. I had my XB12 in for service recently and the dealer told me not to ride the bike until it has reached operating temp, since this can cause the plugs to foul due to the rich condition. Sure enough, the A/F ratio was running low and my plugs were getting black. The sensor is a thermistor that changes resistance with temp rise. Rather than deal with the now inaccurate sensor output, I decided to overide it. An array of resistors was made to simulate operating temperature and the best one was picked and will be permanently installed in place of the sensor.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp133.jpg)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp133.jpg
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This pic shows the stock narrow band O2 sensor on the top and the wide band data logginng O2 sensor on the bottom. My next task is to add an LC-1 controller to the wide band sensor so I can have 2 analog outputs; one for the ECM and one for the data logger. After that is done, I can remove the top sensor and plug the exhaust pipe.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp134.jpg)
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:cheers: Nice job Randy! I am looking forward to see her run a good number this year!
Scott
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Thanks Scott, I'm hoping it will be faster than my last bike too!
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I'm just finishing up some things while I wait for it to get warm enough for a road test. One of the tough items was to protect the fuel pump at the bottom of the bike. I finally decided to put a brace bar alongside the pump and enclose the pump inside a stainless steel tube which is attached to the brace bar...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp135.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp135.JPG
All the electronics are installed in an enclosed bay underneath the seat...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp136.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp136.JPG
The tail section can now be installed...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp138.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp138.JPG
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Randy,
The work is great! I'm a car guy, yet learn from you bike guys. :cheers:
The next time you have the plates off the top between the frame tubes will you take a shot showing the stuff there.
I like the pump tube. :-D My only thought is if the tube entries are not sealed water from the front wheel will enter. You may need to flush with clean water to wash the salt out. And condensation may form inside.
Looking forward to hearing how it runs!
Geo
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another offering to the salt gods!!!! looks to pretty to have the salt destroy it.....
Kent
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another offering to the salt gods!!!! looks to pretty to have the salt destroy it.....
Kent
You feeling okay tonight bro?? There was not one joke or crack at Randy in your post?? I can send someone over to the shop to slap you around if you are not feeling ok.
Scott
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Thanks for the comments guys.
Geo, the tube comes off easily, but it is sealed up front with closed cell foam. It won't keep everything out, but it won't get in easily either. I will take some more detailed pics before I go to Maxton in April.
Kent, thanks, I'm gonna run it at Maxton like you see it, but I will have the full fairing you made on it by the time it hits the salt. Doesn't really matter though, since it will come apart for cleaning and maintenance after speed week.
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Randy,call any time. Not sure how moving your O2 sensor that far down will affect ecm. Buells seem to like that location.
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Randy,call any time. Not sure how moving your O2 sensor that far down will affect ecm. Buells seem to like that location.
Thanks, that stock narrow band sensor has to be close to the head because it is heated by the exhaust gasses. The wide band sensor at the exhaust y is self heating, has a much faster sampling ability, samples outputs from both cylinders and can be programmed to simulate the stock narrow band sensor. With that being said, I'm just setting it up so I can try it both ways.
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I rolled the bike outside for a little test ride and immediately found an uncomfortale situation. I just put a rear, foot controlled brake on it. With the almost lay down position, having my right foot on the peg during low speed manuvering doesn't inspire a lot of confidence. After a morning of ebay shopping, all the front brake parts with the right hand actuated brake master cylinder are on their way here. The bike has been put back in the shop until the new front brakes are installed.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp139.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp139.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp140.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp140.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp141.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp141.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp142.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp139.JPG
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No matter what the other folks say, Randy -- nice looking bike. I sure look forward to hear and see it in person.
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Thanks Jon, I'm planning on April in Maxton. As a new bike, I'm sure I'll need to be inspected by at least two of you.
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Very nice looking piece Rchop. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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Randy ... Slim will do first inspection and I will do second ... guess we can get Todd to do third when you go over 200 with it ... Joe
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Randy ... Slim will do first inspection and I will do second ... guess we can get Todd to do third when you go over 200 with it ... Joe
LOL, so I guess you're saying I will only need two inspections! :cheers:
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Two, for sure. We'll consider it a "new" bike (even though it's been raced at Maxton before this - the major work you've done will merit a through going-over). As for running it past two bills -- hey, best wishes. About 70% is a good place to start. . .
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Thanks for the comments Pete.
This is a totally new bike Jon, from the ground up.
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very slick bike.
hope you do well.
franey
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Thanks Franey.
I haven't painted for a while and there isn't a PPG paint distributor in this area, so to say I was nervous to try a new system and paint the body parts is an understatement.
Have you ever finally tried something new and asked: why haven't I been using this all along? I did this afternoon after I finished spraying. This Dupont Nason paint system produces a fine finish and was very simple to apply...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp143.JPG)
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I'm just about ready for Maxton. A few details need to be finished up and then I will load the trailer. Some changes were made to the tail section that made it more comfortable and look better. The battery was moved behind the seat and the seat was moved forward...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp144.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp144.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp145.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp145.JPG
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Randy,
Man that is a great looking bike,,, I like the paint job,,, man I can not wait to see it in person next week.
Drive safe.
Charles
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Thanks Charles, looking forward to talking to you again. See you next week.
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Nice lookin paint there Randy. Very good work all around. :cheers: Are you going to run open or APS? I have no idea about ECTA but I don't think your front fender is legal for open in SCTA. I'd hate for you to find out in impound... :-o
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Thanks Larry. I will run A-PF and A-PG at Maxton with that front fender. It is good for ECTA, but I would have to cut about a 5 inch wedge out of the front for SCTA. I am only going to run APS-PG at Speed Week with a full fairing.
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The April meet is complete with the usual first time out "growing pains." The bike easily passed tech and performed flawlessly. The only problem came from my gearing set-up. When I purchased all my sprockets, I was still planning on running the turbo from the start. When I decided to start without it, I didn't buy any larger back sprockets. I went with my slowest turbo set-up that put me at the low 130's in 5th gear at 7k rpm. I was hoping I could pull up to 120 with that set-up without the turbo, but it just bogged down everytime I shifted into 5th. With a couple more teeth in the rear sprocket, I'm sure I would be closer to the 120 mark. 110 was the best I could get out of it this weekend. My A/F ratio was running around 12 with WOT. This setting was much richer than tested, so it must be a result of the throttle position part of the circuit and not the general map. I'm still on the learning curve of the EFI system, so the information I have now should help me get up to speed next event.
I'm going to go ahead and put the turbo on before I run it again, so I shouldn't have to buy any more sprockets. The bike will go back on the lift and get the new turbo pistons, then I will fabricate the exhaust, plenum and try some program magic with the fuel mapping.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/MAXTON1.JPG)
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Randy, did you try a pass without going to hi gear? What is your max speed capability at redline in 4th?
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Randy,
Congrats on getting to this stage. Getting a new bike through tech and making some shake down passes is just one step closer to putting it in impound.
The paint job is very sharp!
Cheers,
Scott
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Randy,
Good to see you and the bike this past weekend. I also enjoyed hanging out with you and Joe at the banquet.
The bike did good for it's "shakedown event" See you in June.
Charles
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Randy, did you try a pass without going to hi gear? What is your max speed capability at redline in 4th?
On my last 2 passes, I shifted at 7k rpm. I have my rev limiter set at 7500 rpm, but I didn't want to go that high on on this first event, since the engine is new. The log graph looked like a nice sawtooth line from 1st to 4th and then a gentle curve in 5th to about 6K at the timing traps. I'ts possible it could have reached 7K in more than a mile and it's probable that it would have pulled to 7K in the mile if the A/F was around 13.5 instead of 12. I'm sure I will be able to make on-the-spot adjustments with my lap top as I get more familiar with the EFI system and software. This was a good learning experience for me and I'm very happy with the results.
My speed calcs with the various gear sets are on my shop computer that just stopped working, so I don't have the 4th gear top speed info right now.
Thanks for the comments guys :cheers:
Charles, I'm sure looking forward to seeing the Studebaker in June!
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Turbo installation is underway. A ton of parts have been ordered and they're coming in now. Oil scavange and pressure pumps, oil tank, fittings, boost gauge, boost controller plus lines and fittings. One thing I had to do was rebuild the intake manifold to be able to take turbo pressure. This included a new 1/4 inch thick aluminum flange welded to the intake airhorn and steel straps screwed to small aluminum mesas welded to the intake bodies. This picture shows the finished product being pressure tested...it passed!
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp153.JPG)
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New stainless pipes have been made and the turbo inlet flange made by Scott Stites has been fit to the pipes...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp155.JPG)
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Very nice!! :cheers:
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Entire intake system has been assembled and pressure tested...it passed.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp159.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp159.JPG
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I love good craftsmenship, go fast
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Thanks, I hope to have it ready for the next Maxton event :cheers:
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Scott Stites (isiahstites) has started a new CNC business and he made my turbo flanges for me. Here are some pics of the machining process...
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/misc/IMG00186.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/misc/IMG00188.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/misc/IMG00190.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Machining/100B7751.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Machining/100B7730.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Machining/100B7801.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Machining/100B7860.jpg)
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Randy,
Can Scott cut out triple trees with his machine?
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Randy,
Can Scott cut out triple trees with his machine?
Joe I can make quite a bit. Some things are more complicated than others. I am working on a design for a set of triple trees right now.
Scott
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Let me know when you are ready ... I want to make a top tree for S1 Buell ... you might even still have one from your donor Buell ...
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Turbo installation is complete. The biggest problem was the oiling system since the resevoir is higher than the turbo. I think I finally solved the problem with an inline ball check valve that I will install just before the turbo oil connection. The valve has about 2 lbs of seat pressure that should stop oil from draining into the turbo at rest.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp162.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp162.JPG
During test runs on the country road in front of the house, I was able to get it up to about 5300 rpms in 3rd gear with 7lbs of boost before I was going too fast for the street and and my A/F was going over 15. If I can get the fuel mapping right, this should work well.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp160.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp160.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp161.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp161.JPG
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New turbo installation is well underway. Exhaust pipes have been cut and reassembled with a new transition to a T-25 inlet flange...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp163.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp163.JPG
The shaft was broken on the old turbo and I don't know exactly what caused the failure, so I made changes that could account for multiple reasons. These include a larger turbo and a Blow Off Valve on the plenum. I'm hoping the American made Garrett turbo will solve the Chinese bearing failure if that was the major issue.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp164.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp164.JPG
I just have to mount the pipes and turbo and then weld and wrap the new dump pipe. I'm adding a v-band connector to the end of the dump pipe so I can change ends when running faired or un-faired.
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ummmm..... is that bov mounted in the right direction?
kr
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yes, the flange that is welded to the plenum has a curved base that was sized to weld onto the turbo inlet pipe, but I didn't have enough room on the pipe.
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isnt the exhaust of a BOV usually on the side and the intake on the bottom?
kr
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The BOV is mounted correctly.
Look at the vacuum port at the top of the BOV , when the throttle is chopped the vacuum is applied to the top of the diaphragm and the boost px moves the BOV slide up against the spring and allows the boost to vent to atmosphere.
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isnt the exhaust of a BOV usually on the side and the intake on the bottom?
kr
I saw them in all different configurations Kent. I ordered this one because I wanted a more compact installation.
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Will you be putting a bigger air filter on that bike? The restriction from the small filter might not be a problem, the turbo suction can handle that. It is the possibility of high vacuum pulling dirt through the filter.
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Will you be putting a bigger air filter on that bike? The restriction from the small filter might not be a problem, the turbo suction can handle that. It is the possibility of high vacuum pulling dirt through the filter.
I want to keep the profile as small as possible since it's sticking right out in the airstream. With the lower HP of the 750cc, every little bit helps. The new filter for this turbo is about the same size and I have always gotten good performance from K&N's.
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I Have really enjoyed seeing your machine come together.
Well thought out, and nicely engineered; from the chassis to the engine.
Best of luck, and God bless when it reaches the salt. :-)
Drew Gatewood
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Thanks Drew, I appreciate the encouragement.
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New turbo installation uses 3 inch exhaust pipe with V-band clamp on the end. Elbow can now be rotated if needed or a different end can be installed when front fairing is installed.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp166.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp166.JPG
O2 sensor will be installed in open bung when support brackets are fabricated and pipe is thermal wrapped.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp165.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp165.JPG
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New BOV is adjustable and boost pressure controlled.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp167.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp167.JPG
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7.B.20. 2010 SCTA rulebook all exhaust system outlets shall be directed away from rider, the rear tire and the course surface. willie buchta
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New turbo installation is complete with new support brackets installed. Bike was tested on the country road in front of the house and this one appears to work much better than the first setup. A large bug was appropriately sacrificed on the front of the turbo at high speed to insure a safe test!
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp168.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp168.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp169.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp169.JPG
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New dyno has been installed. I can finally get the EFI mapped properly for this bike. Should be ready for Maxton by the end of the month.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp172.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp172.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp171.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp171.JPG
(http://www.frsengineering.com/pp170.JPG)
http://www.frsengineering.com/pp170.JPG
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Nice job Randy!
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That was one fast install ... I like it ... Joe
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Thanks guys, I made one pass on it just to see if everything worked mechanically. I still have to load the software on my laptop and calibrate it.
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Success in Maxton! 4 passes made Saturday and the old record was bumped 20mph to 129 + mph. I kept increasing fuel pressure and went faster. I was planning on increasing boost Sunday morning and working into the 130's but I sold the bike Saturday afternoon and it was on its way to NY! Joe Daly's nephew bought the bike to learn to Land Speed race. It's a great platform to slowly increase in size and go faster as you learn.
(http://www.frsengineering.com/maxton01.JPG)
The new dyno made it a whole lot easier. I did learn something about dyno tuning though; with the type of dyno I have you can't simulate the load experienced on the track for more than a few seconds. My first pass logged at over 14 to 1 AFR when I had tuned to the low 12s on the dyno. I slowly made adjustments with fuel pressure increases since the injector timing was maxed in the WOT high rpm range. This brought the AFR down to where I wanted it and incresed my power and speed. The perfect scenario would be to put the bike back on the dyno now, and log the difference from the track to the dyno runs. This would give me a differencial to tune to on this bike for future track runs. Thanks to Todd Dross for that information. I can't do it with the turbo 750 since it's been sold, but I will tune the new one richer in anticipation of the track differencial.
So...it is on to the next, faster bike build!
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you sure don't have any problem selling lsr bikes.
good for you .
i've got 2 for sale---
120c.i. kneedragger v twin
222 hp zx12r
franey