Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => Build Diaries => Topic started by: Sumner on December 26, 2008, 12:35:29 PM
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....... well Harv's lakester body..........
(http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/harvey/12-24-3.jpg)
............ see the rest of the pictures he sent me here..........
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/harvey/construction%20page-21.html
Great work Harv and congrats on getting all of that done. I'm impressed!!
c ya,
Sum
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Damn Harv!!! that is looking good!! You are a true insperation. I am planning to be a Lovelock so if you make it and need some help let me know.
Rex
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That is some nice body work!!! Good job!!! :-)
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Well done Harv!
As for the computer mounting, I've done several for big trucks. The trick seems to be shock absorbing padding of some sort and be sure that both the computer itself and the open screen are well supported. In the trucks it seems to be the screens and their hinges that suffer the most.
Pete
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Well done Harv!
As for the computer mounting, I've done several for big trucks. The trick seems to be shock absorbing padding of some sort and be sure that both the computer itself and the open screen are well supported. In the trucks it seems to be the screens and their hinges that suffer the most.
Pete
Maybe Scott will see this and post what I don't know, but they have pretty cheap computers in small cases that work under windows and guys are using them for entertainment centers in their cars. They are set up to work with cranking volts and such and a car/truck environment. I can't find my link to them now. He is looking at them to work for data logging with megasquirt so that you don't have to have a laptop on board.
c ya,
Sum
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Sum,
Thanks for posting the progress report. I'm working on the wiring loom now trying to get the birdnest straightened out before I remove it for the painting.
Pete,
Thanks for the suggestions on insulating the puter. I was trying to ignore that. I'll revisit the computer mounting.
Bville701,
Thanks. Back at you on your roadster bodywork. It's really nice!
Rex,
Thanks. Hope to see you at Lovelock. I always need help.
Harvey
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You can go into the computer bios and have it "ignore when the lid is closed" then the computer will not shutoff. That makes it easier to package and cushion plus the hinge and screen won't die.
We found out our Zeitronix O2 sensor required a computer to record data, not big deal if you are using it on the front seat of a sport compact but was a little issue in our lakester. Only space was in the battery compartment in the nose, we turn it on, close the lid and shove it into the cushioned spot....
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Harv, What a gerat way to finish '08 !!!!!!!!!I would wear being the oldest rookie with pride----but I doubt that you will qualify. GREAT looking canopy!---do you have any other picts of that endevor---also picts of how you modified the anvil on the wheel...Thanks---Hees to a great '09
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.....---also picts of how you modified the anvil on the wheel...
Yes I have those english lower wheels also and have heard of putting a flat on them, but can't remember how wide it is suppose to be??
I suppose you did it in the lathe??
Glad to put your stuff up Harv and you should be proud of what you have accomplished,
Sum
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Sparky,
On Sum's web site there is some pictures and text on building the canopy. It's about page 7 & 8. there will be more info on some other pages scattered around from the first canopy to a little more on the second canopy. I didn't take any pictures of the anvil being flattened. See answer to Sum below for more. I'll be calling you soon at that other matter.
Sum,
Yes, the lower anvil was cut in the lathe. I cut the 12" radiused one about 1/2 " flat in the middle of the curve and blended the edge of the flat into
the 12" radius with emery cloth whle spinning it in the lathe. It's not cut much because I haven't looked at a professional english wheel closely. Mitch Allen has one in his shop that I'll check out and see how the wide flattened area is on the different sized wheels. I didn't want to cut too much. One of the ends on the shaft of the one I did had a small center hole in it. I used that to put pressure toward the three jaw chuck with a live center. The anvil is very hard and radiused both ways so there is very little contact area for the jaws. The anvils need to be polished and keep clean for a smooth job. Some of my work will need bondo because I didn't have flat spots on the anvil and most because I'm a bit of a clutz.
Stainless,
Where's the bios? :|
Thanks, Harv
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Thanks Harv!!!
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Stainless,
Where's the bios? :|
Thanks, Harv
Harv, they are in there where only the computer geeks should be poking around.... :wink: Rodney Fish, the resident computer geek at Mountain States Automation did the one on our race computer.... Just take it to one and tell him you want it to stay on when you close the lid, took Rodney almost 15 minutes to find the spot to change... :|
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If you have $1,700 to $3,200 to spend - Panasonic makes a "Toughbook" notebook computer that you can drop, etc. without harm. I'm saving up for a $400 bracket notebook myself. Info is here:
http://www.panasonic.com/business/toughbook/laptop-computers.asp
SAIC in San Diego made some Mil-Spec battlefield notebooks, but I doubt if they will sell to you or me. The original ones were quarter screen and designed to fit in BDU pockets.
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You may be able to get a good used one from Jack Brauer. His compact PDAs are used mainly to download building schmatics and set up perimeters.
DW
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I use to work for a telamatics company and we built a computer that was hard wired to the car and would turn on with the ignition. It was only 5"x5"x2' and we were selling it for $800. If you Google telematics there should be a host of solutions. This one is slightly bigger and is $725. https://logisysus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=99&products_id=537 If you work it right, should be able to get a free one for from these companies as they are always looking to show case their product.
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An HP IPAC running windows mobile has more than enough memory and power to run these types of programs. has anyone explored that avenue?
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Here are a couple links to what I was talking about. Notice also how easy these can be hooked up to video cameras for recording:
http://www.data911.com/main/index.html
http://china-export-trade.com/mobile-computer.html
This was the info Scott (dieselgeek) sent me:
I did some research. I think for the money, this is the thing to go with:
http://www.e-itx.com/aero-lf-car-pc-system.html
It's got "solid state" hard drive, so no worries about vibration damage. We should mount it with the MSD-style rubber feet.
I think I am going to go ahead and order or build one of these, and I'll let you know how it works out! there's a possibility we can use the parallel port inputs to do more datalogging outside of the megasquirt also...
........Just thinking out loud here, you could run a number of tiny video cameras off this same computer as well as the megasquirt datalogging...
it's got 6 USB ports. cheap web cams, or slightly more expensive units of better video quality could be run right into the USB inputs.
See if you think the case dimensions are small enough for your lakester?
-scott
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If these would work for data logging the megasquirt, plus other inputs, plus cameras for the money they might really be a good deal and they are set up for a car environment.
c ya
Sum
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MAP manifold?
Harv, I have been looking at your engine build and it looks like you removed the manifold that connects all of the throttle bodies together to provide a Manifold Absolute Pressure signal to the MAP sensor for your injection. You appeared to have mounted it to the frame rail, is it still sensing pressure from each of the individual throttle bodies? I have a Hilborn throttle body for my Zetec engine in my roadster and I modified the intake to allow me to connect to each throttle body which then supplies a much better signal to the MAP sensor. I have also referenced the atomsiphric side of the fuel pressure regulator to this manifold which actually will reduce the fuel pressure at idle and really makes the engine idle better and it also takes throttle better. I know that your engine is for racing so idle is probably not a big deal but it sure made my engine more driveable when I added this line.
See you in Lovelock!!
Rex
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Rex,
Good to hear from you. I haven't been spending much time on the computer so I didn't see see your input on the map sensor until tonight. The hook up is one line connected to all four throttle bodies by a series of tees. It's the stock Hayabusa set up. I liked the old set up with the plenum connected directly to the runners better but this seems to work OK. If it stumbles off idle I will try 4 independent hoses to the plenum. My old set up was better because it didn't have any hoses. Less chance for leaks.
I do have a pressure port on the fuel pressure regulator but the idle is adjusted by the TEC II setting according to MAP,TPS, Coolant temp and air temp. It idles so nice it's ridicules. Of course the engine is stock except for the ITBs, so it should idle pretty good. I have much to learn about the TEC II. but looking forward to using it.
Still planning on going to Lovelock for test and tune if the lakester is ready to roll and if I have the means to go. It will take a different set of tires so that will be an extra cost unless I can borrow some. I'd still like to go even if it's sans a race car.
Sum,
I've got way more electronics to study now without adding anything else. Right now I just want to take a ride. Later maybe I could have you help me with some more electronics because I think it's the way to go.
Take care gentlemen,
Harv