Landracing Forum
East Coast Timing Association => ECTA General Chat => Topic started by: Cajun Kid on September 20, 2008, 03:24:02 PM
-
Here is a pic of my shop for the Hot Rods, building a new and bigger shop just for the for the Race Cars.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0796.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0799.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0804.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0805.jpg)
New Shop 2000 Sq. Ft. (ground breaking) Ready for footers on Monday
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0803.jpg)
Hope to have complete and move in no later than Nov. 1st.
Charles
-
Oh Link to other pics
http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/
-
That's a nice shop, Charles. The race car shop looks like it will be good- sized as well.
One suggestion I have is to coat the concrete floor with a very bright color; it makes the shop brighter and helps you to see small parts that get dropped on the floor. I used a Sherwin- Williams industrial polyurethane over an epoxy primer. It is bright gloss yellow and I've been very pleased with it.
Good luck with the new shop and please keep us posted with pictures of its construction.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
-
What a great setup you have there.
a dream for many :cheers:
-
Manta,
My brother owns a concrete diamond polishing setup.. I think he can do this diamond hone polish that makes it stain proof and then die or paint, nit sure...
Did you roll your paint on ? We have high humidity here, how slick would paint be and how durable ?
Do you have a pic of your floor you could post ?
I need to be thinking about floor finish before I move in.
I will keep adding posts as the construction goes forward. Once in the new shop we will start the Car #1806 Studebaker Build...
Charles
-
:-D
-
:-D
-
Max
I don't think you can just cut & paste into the reply. You can point to an image stored someplace on the web, like photobucket by using the IMG tags. There's a quick button Icon right above the smileys It's the second one from the left that looks like a picture. It says Insert Image when you click on it. Click on it then put the http://whatever.address.com.
If the pic is in photobucket you can just click on the IMG CODE right below the picture & it automatically copies the code for you & you just paste that code into this window.
You can also attach a pic directly from you computer. Click on the word Additional Options... below the window you type in when you are typing a reply. Then click on the word browse and navigate through your computer to the picture you want to show. Highlight the file and click open. When you post the reply it will show the picture.
Hope this helps! I'd like to see your yellow floor too!
Good luck with the shop Charles! I'm jealous of you as always! :-D
Debbie
-
:-D
-
:-D
-
:-D
-
Charles, Thats a nice looking shop for the street rods, and I'll follow along to watch the Race Car shop progress. I would like fo rmine to go up as quickly as yours is ... I bought the land in April ( 1/2 acre ) and hope to have it cleared and graded in another month from now. But it will be 3 years before the 40 x 60 shop is completed ... and then 6 months later I'll be able to retire from GM.
Thats the plan at least ....
Keep up the good work on the cars and the shop !
-
MAXX
The current Hot Rod shop is a 30'x40' Block and Brick Foundation with 32" above the 3500PSI Concrete Floor, Then it is a stick built frame walls with 1/2 plywood covered in a dutchlap vinyl siding. Trusses are enginered with a 7/12 pitch and have a 12x40 storage room above with external treated lumber stairs.
The new race shop will be 32'x62', with 12" brick and block foundation 7 courses, high then same style stick built walls, new shop will only have a 6/12 pitch roof with no room above. Finished ceiling height will be just over 12 foot tall( current shops ceiling is 10 inches to low to get lift to max lifting..)
Since I am in a housing development, I had to use a similar construction method (or go 100% brick veener siding (too expensive) So both shops will match each other and be side by side, the race shop will be a bit behind the current shop as to be hidden from view when looking from the rear windows of my house.
My driveway to the shop is long (my wife calls it the landing strip) when she sees the other 125 foot section I have to pour in order to get to and around the race shop she may just kill me or bannish me to the shop?? Hmm not so bad ?
Charles
-
Charles;
The floor coating has proven pretty durable and spills easily wipe up without hurting the finish. I haven't noticed the floor being slippery but we don't have a lot of rain in AZ. :-) My contractor used a roller to apply the finish coating as well as the primer.
Be sure to talk to a Sherwin- Williams INDUSTRIAL guy; this polyurethane coating does not appear in the S-W paint catalog.
Have a look in the "Build Diary" under Mid- Engine Modified Sports to see a few photos that show my bright yellow floor.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
-
Neil, the yellow floor does look good. I am going to have to look into that as one of my options,
Take care. Keep posting the build pics...
Charles
-
That's one cool car shed Charles, it's bigger than my house :-D :-D :-D :-D :-D
Looking forward to beers with you at Maxton next month :cheers:
Sam. :wink:
-
Same here Sam, I'll have the beer on Ice for after the car is put away for the evening... what day are you arriving?
Charles
-
Same here Sam, I'll have the beer on Ice for after the car is put away for the evening... what day are you arriving?
Charles
Not sure yet Charles, I'm in the area the week before at Piedmont so thought I may as well hang about to take in Maxton as well.
Sam. :wink:
-
Footers are poured and Block and Brick Foundation is going up as planned, a few more rows and should be done by 5pm today if rain holds off. Plan to pour floor on Monday and be ready to frame walls by Wednesday.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0815.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0822.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0820.jpg)
More to come,,,
Charles
-
The sooner you get out of there, the more it will look like was done while you're gone.
Looking good, :cheers:
Todd
-
Yeah, but the new shop is 20 feet behind my other shop... I like things done on a tight schedule.. so I hope all goes well, but mother nature is in control of the progress, until we get under roof..
Oh well let me take a Aleve for my back and get back under the car and get that third member out so I can get the new one in...
Charles
-
Todd, All the block and brick work is done and now ready to level the floor and put in rock and pour concrete floor,,, Hope to have that all done this week and start framing on Monday.
I don't have any new pics yet, been busy and it's muddy out there now.. we have had quite a bit of rain... we needed the rain,, seems like rain only comes in on race weekends, car show weekends or when I am building something.. LOL
Take care
Charles
-
The floor is in and the framing is to start tomorrow !!
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0844.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0843.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0841.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0840.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0839.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/DSCN0586.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/DSCN0596.jpg)
-
So... is that view of Maxton from outside the new shop? :evil:
By the way, are you coming to the October meet? I know your crew had deserted you for Super Chevy or something like that! :wink:
-
Milt, I wish that was the View from my shop of Maxton ( I would sure sneak in some test time and probably have to pave the whole thing to get out of trouble,, LOL)
Yes I plan on being at Maxton for this months event... You are right, my crew has left me and will be at Lowes Motor Speedway in Concord/Charlotte NC for the Goodguys Southeastern Regional Show.. I hate to miss the show too, I may take the Vicky to Goodguys on Friday for a few hours and show her in the Suede and Chrome Corral,,, then high tail it to Maxton.
Either way, Hope to see you at Maxton in 2 weeks...
Should have the walls and trusses up and the Shop dried in by then. Plans are to have the shop ready to move in by the 10th to 15th of November. (sooner I hope)
Charles
-
Charles - shop looks good - are you putting up 10' stud walls? ( That would get you plenty of room for a lift). I'm tired of Goodguys here in Charlotte (don't like to sit behind my car, lol) and plan on going to Maxton. Do you need some help on Saturday? Your down the road neighbor, vic (in Salisbury).
-
Charles - shop looks good - are you putting up 10' stud walls? ( That would get you plenty of room for a lift). I'm tired of Goodguys here in Charlotte (don't like to sit behind my car, lol) and plan on going to Maxton. Do you need some help on Saturday? Your down the road neighbor, vic (in Salisbury).
If you want a clear floor 2 post type lift you need 12 feet and the one I got actually needed 145 inches, so I had to put in a further recess between the trusses.
I wanted a 10 foot ceiling over the rest of my shop, so I ordered trusses with a stepped area in the middle.....
(http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/newhouse/truss-1a.jpg)
......... the ones on the top of the pile.
The stepped area lines up with the garage door.....
(http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/newhouse/truss-inside-1.jpg)
........and only goes back far enough in the shop to clear the front.............
(http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/newhouse/Shop-1.jpg)
............. of the vehicle when it is on the lift.
This has worked great for me and the stepped trusses were actually a few dollars less than the flat bottom ones.
That is going to be a great shop Charles,
Sum
-
Sum, man you have a cool shop... and a great location....nice countryside.
My walls will be 109.5" (that's 9 foot finished height) on top of a 44" block/brick wall... Total Ceiling height will be 12 foot 8 inch (152 inches) My current shop is 131" and my lift goes all but the last 2 notches or 8" below max lift, so the new shops 152 inches gives me 21 inches more. That will be more than enough....
Once I get my 4 post Bend Pak moved to the new shop and recover from the buildcost (and the stock market decline) I plan to add a Bend Pak 2 post lift as well.
I know I am going to love the higher ceilings...
Sum, great Idea with the stepped trusses...
Charles
-
Vic, Give me a call some time this week. I am in Salisbury on Monday's and Wednesday's... Tomorrow is quite busy, but Wednesday I have a light schedule. Maybe we can meet on Wednesday. Just moved in my new office in Manning Park (the new office buildings on Jake Alexander Blvd. Across from the Mall / Advance Auto entrance (Big Green Roofs with pond and fountain in rear)
Charles 336-239-6743
-
............. I plan to add a Bend Pak 2 post lift...............Charles
I'm real happy with my Bend Pak. In case you haven't checked into it I'd recommend the center load 2 post for those of us having older vehicles and trucks. That is what was recommended to me and I've been happy with the choice. Also the 2 post Bend Paks come in a regular width model and a wider model. I got the wider XP-10CX model and like it as with the center load the doors open wider and if a car is parked between the posts you can walk between the posts and the vehicle easier. It is about 13 inches wider.
I see the place I ordered from now has it for $2785 only $80 dollars more than the narrow one and it is a 10,000 lb. lift so it will also work with other heavier vehicles. The price now is about $300 more than I paid about 3-4 years ago, but all steel products are up.
I got it from here..........
http://www.e-autolifts.com/MAX/MAX.html
........ and the whole transaction took place with no hitches and the price included shipping to me. I'd recommend the lift and David who has the site and would do the same again.
You are going to love the new shop and personally I find that a 2 post lift will do much more than a 4 post, but if you end up with both you will have the best of both.
c ya,
Sum
-
Sum, that is the same 2 post Bend Pak I have my eye on. My 4 post Bend Pak also has a "rolling bridge jack" so I can lift the wheels off the lift runners.. That is one reason I needed higher ceilings... The Air/hydraulic bridge jack lifts the car above the lift... Great product but a 12 foot ceiling is mandatory with it..
Oh my as I am typing this the Trusses are coming accros the driveway...
See ya
Charles
-
A few pics, I hope to see the walls built, the trusses up and the roof on by the end of the week.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0848.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0847.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0845.jpg)
I will post more pics on Friday, oh well back to work,
Charles
-
So... is that view of Maxton from outside the new shop? :evil:
By the way, are you coming to the October meet? I know your crew had deserted you for Super Chevy or something like that! :wink:
Charles has flown a new crew in from England, and the weather is great over here in Richmond :-D
Sam :cheers:
-
Sam,
Now don't start rumors !! Hey that has a nice ring to it.... I see the headline now.
Local Land Speed Racer, Charles "Cajun Kid" Venable flies in top notch Land Speed Racing Crew from England to assist him with his out right Land Speed Attempt at the Monster Mile in Maxton NC.
The East Coast Timing Association Sanctions the best darn Land Speed Racing East of Bonneville, the last weekend in October the Nations best One Mile Speed demons will gather for the final event of the year.
Venable's crew has deserted him to take part in some sissy hot rod show in Charlotte, so his all volunteer crew from England and other parts unknown will be there for some support and a push or two.. (well he does have to provide the beer after the racing is done).
LOL
Ahh I could never write an article or press release,,,, heck I will stick to my day job,
see ya in 2 weeks at Maxton.
Charles
-
charles i tested some tubing today hope this helps you --its under technical discussion willie buchta
-
Sam,
Now don't start rumors !! Hey that has a nice ring to it.... I see the headline now.
Local Land Speed Racer, Charles "Cajun Kid" Venable flies in top notch Land Speed Racing Crew from England to assist him with his out right Land Speed Attempt at the Monster Mile in Maxton NC.
The East Coast Timing Association Sanctions the best darn Land Speed Racing East of Bonneville, the last weekend in October the Nations best One Mile Speed demons will gather for the final event of the year.
Venable's crew has deserted him to take part in some sissy hot rod show in Charlotte, so his all volunteer crew from England and other parts unknown will be there for some support and a push or two.. (well he does have to provide the beer after the racing is done).
LOL
Ahh I could never write an article or press release,,,, heck I will stick to my day job,
see ya in 2 weeks at Maxton.
Charles
:-D :-D :-D :-D :-D :-D :-D :-D :-D :-D :-D :-D :-D :-D
Sam. :cheers:
-
3 walls up today, 1 more wall to go and then the trusses...
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0875.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0876.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0877.jpg)
-
The rain is coming Friday, hope to get trusses on tomorrow and get the roof sheeted and black paper down, but based on current pace may not beat the rain.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0882.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0881.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0880.jpg)
Charles
-
O WOW that looks nice. I just love a clean floor.
Good luck to you Charles. Cant wait to see and hear you run.
-
Coming along nicely Charles :cheers: What kind of siding are you going with?
Have you done any equipment layout drawings yet?
Deb and I have utilized our space alo more effectively by doing scaled cut and paste overheads of everything we have (including projected bikes), not to mention the amount of work it saves by not shuffling equipment back and forth or having to remeasure things over and over.
The tall ceilings are nice and I've found actually have more benefit then just space utilization... like good lighting it keeps you frorm being ran down at the end of the day from the "cave syndrome".
Will try and remember to bring you a cd with a couple pics on it of you and my dad, they're a bit big to mail).
See you at the end ofthe week,
Todd
-
Hey Todd,
Yes please remember to bring the CD with pics.
I took graph paper using each grid square as a 1x1 area ( 1 grid square is 1 sq. ft.)
That is how I drew the shop and door placement, then I overlay ed the lighting plan and the the four post and 2 post lifts. NOW I am adding in air lines and hose reel layout, then the overhead electric cord reels. next I will overlay the the electrical outlets and any shelving and tables.
I may end up putting heavy casters on the work tables so they can move "to the work" not vice versa.
If I could only weld, I could make my own work tables. (the cost of commercial steel work tables is insane)
I could come out cheaper and more to my needs to go buy a welder and learn to weld. (but I am impatient and set a build schedule for everything and did not plan on the down time to buy a welder and then learn to weld) My fear would be me welding a work table, then having a transmission on it and the darn welds breaking, table collapsing and falling, messing up my trans and breaking my foot too LOL...
Oh well, Guess I will have time to decide on work tables...
See you at the end of the week,,,
Let's hope the rain stays away,,, the long range forcast does not look good for Fri, Sat and Sun...
Charles
-
Cool deal on the layout... Deb did the same thing and I gave her all my equipment measurements which she remade as small pics that she can slide around and position anywhere she wants to tell me if it will work when I rearrange or add something.
I use pvc (600psi rating) for airline and have over 500' in my small shop allowing me to plug in anywhere for very little expense at all(and it's so easy to run and manuver around), including a couple overheads (I have one overhead electrical reel but could sure use some more).
You'd be fine with a small mig to make your work tables imo, no doubt in my mind you'd be happy and fialry proficient for things like that by the time you're done. But even if you don't want to... simply bolting together your own and having a welder stop over and lay some beads might save you some $ as well.
By the way.. the only "R" word we like to use this late in the game is "Race".. Ok?! :wink:
Todd
-
Opps. Todd you are right...
The Forecast is "R" Race On !!!!!!!!!!!
Oh the siding will be an Ivory DutchLap to match the existing siding on the other shop since they are only 20 feet apart everything has to match (Block, Brick, Siding, Roofing, Gutters, everything)
My Brother has agreed to send one of his crews up to Diamond Polish the floor and color it if I want as well. (he does the floors for Lowes and WalMart Auto Centers..)
The Diamond Polish makes the floors stain proof and reduces dust, the color dye is more for looks...
Charles
-
Todd,
Air Line ? What size/type of PVC did you use to plumb the air in your shop ?
Did you glue or tape the couplings ? Can it handle 175 PSI ?
(I was told to use Iron Pipe or that fancy blue pipe with quick couplers (seen on hotrod TV and horsepower TV) but whew very very expensive)
Need save $ as Have to get a new 80 gal Compressor for new shop..
Looking at Ingersol Rand, Quincy or Bel Aire compressors,, any suggestions ?
Thanks
Charles
-
..........If I could only weld, I could make my own work tables. (the cost of commercial steel work tables is insane)
I could come out cheaper and more to my needs to go buy a welder and learn to weld. (but I am impatient and set a build schedule for everything and did not plan on the down time to buy a welder and then learn to weld) My fear would be me welding a work table, then having a transmission on it and the darn welds breaking, table collapsing and falling, messing up my trans and breaking my foot too LOL..........
You can weld, you just don't know it. The tables would be a good place to start and they won't fall down. Get a 220 Miller mig about 180 amp and have someone spend an hour with you and it and you will be welding plenty good to make the tables and that will give you confidence for the future.
Just don't be afraid to use some heat and maybe start with the settings a little hotter than what is on the panel on the inside of the welder cabinet. If your weld is hot and red on the other side of the metal and off to the sides of the weld when you stop the weld then you are getting close and fine for those tables.
One thing on the wiring that I recommend to everyone is to put lots of outlets on ..........
(http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/newhouse/shop-1a.jpg)
..........each side of any doors and windows. I mean at least 2 doubles on each side and even 3 doubles. The ones along the walls get buried behind shelving and junk and you just can't get to them later. Usually right next to the doors doesn't get covered up as much. Put some high ones where your benches will be and I put a couple low ones there and then put..........
(http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/newhouse/shop-2a.jpg)
................... lots of outlets on the front of the benches for drilling, soldering, etc.. Those outlets are then plugged into the wall if the bench moves or are hard wired into the wall if it doesn't. In the picture the left outlet is 220 so I can move the welder right up to the work bench. The middle arrow points to a normal double outlet and you can see that I should of put more of those in as I put a strip outlet next to that one to plug the drill chargers into. I would feel better safety/fire wise to not be using the strip and will try and replace it in time.
Lots of 220 outlets so you can move your welder, plasma cutter anywhere in the shop and not have long 220 extension cords. Also if you don't have a mill and/or lathe plane for a location for those and put some 220 outlets there for them. I couldn't live without a.........
(http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/newhouse/shop-4a.jpg)
.......... lathe and a ..........
(http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/newhouse/shop-3a.jpg)
.................... mill anymore. Something else you can learn to use that is not all that hard.
Is there a reason you aren't putting in at least one high garage door?? Just Curious as I'm glad I have one high one going to the lift in my shop. It still wouldn't be that hard to cut one in.
c ya,
Sum
-
Sum,
Good Idea on the outlets.. I have (40) 110 duples outlets around the shop and another 10 in the ceiling plans. Will have 7 total locations for 220 (5)inside the shop on the walls, (1)) 220 in the ceiling and (1) 220 outside.
I am going to buy a Welder too,,, What type, brand and Size do you suggest.
Something capable of doing sheetmental all the way up to 1/4 plate would be all I think I would ever need....Is the Miller 220 Mig the one to get ?
Thanks, Yeah I have a line on milling machine as well...
-
Charles,Welders have been discussed on this site in the past. Probably find it in the archives. Talk to Keith at Maxton as he did a lot of research a couple of years ago. Also I believe Miller has classes on welding or even the local Collages might have something.
-
Charles:
I put all my electrical outlets 52" from the floor. That way anything up to 4' doesn't block them when it's leaning against the wall.
Pete
-
Charles:
Don't skimp too much on the mig welder. Get one that will take the full size reels. That way the wire is much cheaper and most of them put out decent amperage. No matter what you get you'll find a job where you need "more machine". As long as you stick with one of the brand name machines, i.e. Miller, Lincoln, etc. it's pretty hard to go wrong.
Pete
-
PJ,
My Brick/Block walls are 44 inches above the concrete shop floor, the outlets will be another 16 inches up the sheetrock wall, so total outlet height will be about 60 inches off the floor around the entire perimeter of the shop.
I was looking at the new Miller 180 (with auto set) it can weld 25ga up to 5/16 inch thick. I can not imagine needing to weld more than 1/4 stock,, so the 5/16th rating should be good enough (keep in mind the last time I welded it was metal shop in Jr. High (Pilot Butte Jr High, Bend Oregon) and then Auto Shop at Ruston High and Louisanna Tech in Ruston La.) many many years ago and it was a Lincoln stick welder. Plus I was not very good at it.
Thanks for the info, Talk to you Tuesday night in chat.
Charles
-
Todd,
Air Line ? What size/type of PVC did you use to plumb the air in your shop ?
Did you glue or tape the couplings ? Can it handle 175 PSI ?
(I was told to use Iron Pipe or that fancy blue pipe with quick couplers (seen on hotrod TV and horsepower TV) but whew very very expensive)
Need save $ as Have to get a new 80 gal Compressor for new shop..
Looking at Ingersol Rand, Quincy or Bel Aire compressors,, any suggestions ?
Thanks
Charles
Them TV shows need sponsor cash Charles... probably great stuff, I just know that there's no reason in the world someone like me needs that type of piping. Regular old 1/2" white schedule 40 PVC is what I was taught to use (by my dad), and have ever since. I even buried it and ran 200' under ground to my shed at my last house(under the freeze line of course). You'll get guys that say not to use it, but so far they are always guys that have never used it :roll:
My dad started using it for airline in the mid to late 70's and he, my brother and I have never used anything but it for airline since (at least a 7 or 8 houses between us and two of my shops so far).
I use the normal gluing method (have never tried any kind of tape, and whatever you do don't thread it as it weakens the material in the valleys of course).
I use the 1/2" because the smaller a pipe is the stronger it is when it comes to being able to take a hit (and burst pressure as well by the way), plus it's cheaper and easier to fit and work with. I even tested a tee'd and capped length of it for one of the naysayers with nitrous pressure, it finally split a joint somewhere close to 900psi. I let 600psi on another length of it for 24hours and it was fine. Like I say, we're coming up on 30 years of using it now.
Schedule 80 is even tougher, but also more expensive. and if you're only running 225-250psi or less, I see no reason to bother with it (if you have an area that is prone to be hit with something large for some reason like a fork lift or whatever, you might want to protect the schedule 40 or use some hard pipe in that area).
I don't reccomend this for others, but I do it in all kinds of places when taking the pvc over electrical conduit and such. I heat it with a heat gun and bend it around it... highest I tested it after wards was 300psi and that was enough for me.
(http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o244/narider/TJC%20Shop/102_2489.jpg)
As far as a compressor.. there's others that put more wear and tear on them then I do I'm sure. I bought a 80 gallon 7hp unit with a Cast Iron V-twin pump (should a harley shoip have anything else? -lol) . The motor eventually went out and we replaced it with a good unit from Grainger's I think it was (had more starter coils on it or something?).
At anyrate, it sits outside and it won't be long before it will be out there a decade now... so I'm happy with it. I think it's a Husky?.. I couldn't tell the difference between all of them in the specs when I bought it and for the price I just ran up to Home Depot or Lowe's and grabbed one when my last Craftsman unit went out. If anything happens to it I'll do the same again... I couldn't justify the cost of the bigger name brand units.
Good stuff on the outlets, wish I would of thought about both sides of the openings when I did mine (144 outlets plus all the power-strips I've added since and I'm still way shy of what I need and where I need them). Don't forget to throw some high outlets up as well (9' or so) for when you decide you need a cheapo plug in flourescent from Lowe's here and there... beats extension cords or cutting and hardwiring them in a tthe last minute. Also make sure you pull a couple extra wires in your walls or conduit so you have them for an extra circuit here and there, (if not all three, at least do one extra with each run to use as a pull wire later just in case). And how about a computer area... a dozen outlets there would help for sure - lol, but consider it being a dedicated circuit so nothing else you're doing (when it overloads or spikes) screws with it - especially if it's going to be a data computer.
Yep, any machinery you think you might need later is a valuable thing to think about now... even if it's small stuff like this that you might grow into something bigger later.
(http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o244/narider/TJC%20Shop/100_3110c.jpg)
(http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o244/narider/TJC%20Shop/100_2493c.jpg)
Good stuff on the outlets Sum - where were ya when I needed you!?!
Todd
-
PJ,
My Brick/Block walls are 44 inches above the concrete shop floor, the outlets will be another 16 inches up the sheetrock wall, so total outlet height will be about 60 inches off the floor around the entire perimeter of the shop.
I was looking at the new Miller 180 (with auto set) it can weld 25ga up to 5/16 inch thick. I can not imagine needing to weld more than 1/4 stock,, so the 5/16th rating should be good enough (keep in mind the last time I welded it was metal shop in Jr. High (Pilot Butte Jr High, Bend Oregon) and then Auto Shop at Ruston High and Louisanna Tech in Ruston La.) many many years ago and it was a Lincoln stick welder. Plus I was not very good at it.
Thanks for the info, Talk to you Tuesday night in chat.
Charles
The Miller 180 would be a good welder for you as like you mentioned it will do the thin stuff and about anything you would ever do car related. Take the ratings with a grain of salt. For instance it would be very hard to weld 5/16 thick square tubing onto another one of the same thickness in say a "T" joint. Just not enough heat to get good penetration. I don't feel comfortable with my Miller 175 on anything over 3/16 inch. That 5/16 would be two pieces of 5/16 butt welded with the edges beveled. Most everything you will do will be .120 and the 180 will work fine.
I also talked to a Miller distributor and he said some beginners get into trouble with the "auto-set" as it is not enough heat for some welds you would do, so if in doubt go a little hotter. Like I mentioned someone who can weld spending an hour or two with you would get you to the place of making better welds and making sure that you had adequate penetration. With a MiG it is easy to get a good looking weld that doesn't have good penetration. Just make sure you have good heat tracks in both pieces you are welding and you will be good to go.
I have a TIG now also, but for the first welder and the more practical one I would start with a MIG.
c ya,
Sum
-
Thanks Sum, I have a few friends that are excellent welders (one of them said even a Monkey can learn to weld,, so I called him Cheeta and he got mad,,, LOL)
No kidding, I think I can learn on a Mig. Once in the new Shop I will probably get the Miller 180 as a "starter".
Looks like the Miller 180 with another spool attachement can also weld Alum ??
Charles
-
.............Them TV shows need sponsor cash Charles... probably great stuff, I just know that there's no reason in the world someone like me needs that type of piping. Regular old 1/2" white schedule 40 PVC is what I was taught to use (by my dad), and have ever since. I even buried it and ran 200' under ground to my shed at my last house(under the freeze line of course). You'll get guys that say not to use it, but so far they are always guys that have never used it :roll:....................Todd
Good advice. I've been using the PVC also for some time with no problems and will continue. On the compressor Charles I wouldn't worry if it was 60 or 80 gallon, just make sure it is a 2-stage and that doesn't mean 2 cylinder. I started with a 2 cylinder and used it for years and finally this last spring got a 2 stage from HF, about the same as the other stores sell. I should of done this from the beginning as it was only a couple hundred more. You should find one in the $800-$900 range. I know some don't like HF, but one thing I like about them where I live is the maximum freight is $50. I paid $50 apiece to get my 2500 lb. mill to me and my 2000 lb. lathe to me and the 2 stage compressor to me, saving hundreds in freight.
.............Good stuff on the outlets Sum - where were ya when I needed you!?!....Todd
Right were I'm suppose to be, hiding in SE Utah,
Sum
-
..........Looks like the Miller 180 with another spool attachement can also weld Alum ??
Charles
Not really as far as I'm concerned and as far as a couple Miller distributors are concerned. From what they told me you can't weld thin aluminum (like body panels) with a spool guy very well if at all and the 180 just doesn't have enough heat to weld the thicker stuff. I have a good friend that has a 250 Miller that has worked fine for him welding thick plate for his semi's and he has a 110 volt Miller Mig for welding the thin steel for body work on cars.
I wish it would have worked as I had the 180, but a TIG will just do so much better than a spool guy. I got a Lincoln 225 Tig and love it.
c ya,
Sum
-
Charles:
If you're going to spend the money only once I'd go for a 210 or I think now they call it a 212. It's got way more oomph than the 180 and will do a useful job with a spool gun. I sold Miller for quite a while and still work for a company that does. The extra money you spend now will more than repay itself. The machine is so much more satisfactory. The 180's get replaced rather regularly by the 210/212. People tend to buy the 180 to save a few dollars and then find they have to go elsewhere as soon as they need to do a small repair on the trailer or something similar. My advise is to save yourself some frustration. The auto-set feature on the 180 is definitely for beginners. It tends to weld on the cold side which means you don't get the full penetration that the machine's capable of. You want penetration when you're welding on race cars and support equipment.
Pete
-
hey guys in some areas pvc is not allowed to be used as airline and for a good reason --if you have a fire and your compressor is full of air --well you get the idea--if it was me i would put a shutoff valve at the compressor tank or drain the system when not in the shop----no plastic air line here----just some thoughts---willie buchta
-
Whichever way I go with hard air lines I had always planned on a cutoff valve between Compressor and airline manifold.
-
Yes, I remember 31 years ago when I built my shop they warned me not to use PVC for air lines because they would not live. So as soon as one breaks I'm going to change them.
-
When PVC "breaks" in an air line service it shatters-- sharp pieces go flying everywhere. PVC=NFG.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
-
WOW, lots of different opinions and experiences with PVC for air line ?
Still doing my due diligence on cost, ease of installation, reliability, durability, function and safety.
Charles
-
WOW, lots of different opinions and experiences with PVC for air line ?
This topic can lead to more opinions than the Ford vs. Chevy deal. Me I've been happy with the PVC, but have been tempted to cover it (box it in) with some 3/8 wafer board (OSB or also called flakeboard). Still a lot cheaper than copper or steel and a lot easier to reconfigure if needed.
In the end you have to go with what you feel good about,
Sum
-
if i could i would have went with pvc my county wont allow it willie buchta---charles might want to check with your insurance co. also
-
I used pvc in a temporary shop I set up before moving to a bigger space. It was rated to 140 psi and we only needed to run a couple lines for air tools so 90 psi was fine.
The only problem I had was if you tug the hose it will split the pipe and the split will fallow around the elbow. I did not like that .So I did my house in copper water pipes and my garage is done with steel air lines. The air lines are still in that temporary shop.
-
This topic can lead to more opinions than the Ford vs. Chevy deal.
You mean there's people that think there's a Ford that's faster then a Chevy???
Charles, you'll most likely find the proponents for PVC have been or are users of PVC, and those against it are usually basing their judgement from reading(internet) or hearing unexperienced rumor.
Doesn't matter to me, I've already saved my money. From the stuff still being in use on bonshire road in Akron that was installed 30 years ago(you'd think if any was going to go bad it'd certainly be that installation right there), to the my last house and shop in NC still having it hooked up, to over 500 feet of it here in this shop (that you can't tell the difference between it and black pipe by the way, other then it's white and doesn't carry moisture for as long in the morning as the steel)... well, I think I'll stick to my ways.
I did look up a rating file someone sent me once though...( I think the burst rate is high and the operating rate is low from my findings though).
(http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o244/narider/TJC%20Shop/pvc-pipes-pressure.png)
Even in my burst test it only opened up the end in a non violent way and that was at very high pressure(I never experienced the splinters of plastic debri flying around the shop as someone described (not that it couldn't happen under some wierd circumstances, just didn't happen to me and I certainly gave it every opportunity to).
Like Sum said, do what makes you comfortable and of course(as with any air line) put a main shut off from the tank. I have a shut off at the beggining and at the end of each leg of my line. Makes it easy to change the ends when they go bad,,, yes the brass and steel couplers go bad.. the PVC does not (not to mention ad another leg in the middle of the day without cutting air from the rest of the shop).
Todd
-
I was concerned when I put PVC air line in the shop that if I tugged the hose I could break it, so this is what I did. The only one that is not on copper screwed to the wall is the bid hose reel by the garage door. 1/2 PVC says 600 psi, that is good enough for my use...
-
Nice fix Stainless and I really like the hose reel by the door.
Pete
-
Proper attachment to the wall prevents pull on the connector and the PVC. A short down leg with a drain valve allows clamping on each side of the TEE and QD. I am in the process of re arranging my garage/shop and plan on six drops and moving the hose reel to the door. Thanks Neil.
-
Todd,
A friend of mine has about 140 ft of Sch. 80 PVC... I think I may use that...I can do some trading and get it for about $50...
I will have 3 Hose reels (50 ft hose each) two mounted to the ceiling (one at 40 ft from the doors and the other at 20 ft from the doors, in the center line of the width),, The third will be mounted on the divider wall between the two garage doors. Next to each ceiling mounted hose reel will be a Electrical Cord reel and drop light reel as well.
My 4 post Ben Pak lift uses an air safety release and I will hard plumb the air to it as well (T in a flex air line from it to operate the Rolling Bridge Jack as well on the lift).
Charles
-
I was concerned when I put PVC air line in the shop that if I tugged the hose I could break it, so this is what I did. The only one that is not on copper screwed to the wall is the bid hose reel by the garage door. 1/2 PVC says 600 psi, that is good enough for my use...
I like what you did Stainless, but I do like what was in Glen's post....
A short down leg with a drain valve allows clamping on each side of the TEE and QD.
............ where you have the 90's I put in a "T" and go to near the floor with a drop to collect moisture and have a valve on the bottom of it so that I can drain the drop,
Sum
-
See these threads are very useful
I would have forgot to put in drains in the air lines,,, I have automatic tank drain and water filter / regulator but would have certainly forgot the line drains.
I guess having to get ready for Maxton this weekend, working on the new shop, making decisions on the Stude Project, collecting parts for the Stude, researching shop equipment for the new shop, thinking about learning to weld, Oh yeah and working 44 hours at my real job last week, I was bound to overlook something...
LOL....
Charles
-
See these threads are very useful
That's a fact Charles.
I haven't had any issues to need to do what Stainless did as I never pull on any of my hoses back to the wall, but it's a great preventative measure in case someone does. I do have a 12' cieling drop that gets yanked around like crazy... but it's never caused an issue and everything else is secured. Glen's way of securing the end of a run is good and it also allows you to add on later as I mentioned earlier. Sum's way of doing drains is perfect and the air/moisture combo also works well for quenching/cooling parts after welding or taking them out of the welding oven.
Here's some pics I snapped of some of my connections including one of my drains (over the welding oven and under the radio - where better for a water drain then next to your electrical panel right?), one of the ceiling drop (it's strapped it to a piece of metal conduit that I welded to the ceiling which has a lot of give to it and is able to float around), and the end of a run picture that you can see is easy to extend later (almost all my other ones have already been extended so it really came in handy doing it this way).
(http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o244/narider/TJC%20Shop/Air%20lines%20-%20PVC/102_2493.jpg)
(http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o244/narider/TJC%20Shop/Air%20lines%20-%20PVC/102_2495.jpg)
(http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o244/narider/TJC%20Shop/Air%20lines%20-%20PVC/102_2498.jpg)
(http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o244/narider/TJC%20Shop/Air%20lines%20-%20PVC/102_2500.jpg)
(http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o244/narider/TJC%20Shop/Air%20lines%20-%20PVC/102_2503.jpg)
(http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o244/narider/TJC%20Shop/Air%20lines%20-%20PVC/102_2504.jpg)
(http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o244/narider/TJC%20Shop/Air%20lines%20-%20PVC/102_2505.jpg)
(http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o244/narider/TJC%20Shop/Air%20lines%20-%20PVC/102_2507.jpg)
Todd
-
In considering the height of the walls for my shop. Not only room for a car on the lift but around here permits and taxes are based on the square ft. of the building not the cubic ft. My shop is 30' by 70' or 2100 sq.ft' So with my 12 foot high walls I can have a 8' ceiling over my office, engine room, machine room, head bench room, flow bench room and long work bench with 4 ft. high storage space above. I end up with as extra 562 sq.ft. of storage I don't have to walk around.
And yes even with that my shop is still a big mess. LOL
-
Doug I understand we never have enough storage room. My existing shop/garage is only 30x40 but I used 7/12 trusses made with a room above,, I have external treated stairs going to upper floor (taht way no shop space was taken up by steps/stair) The room above has a 3/4 tongue and groove floor and is a full 12 x 40 ( so another 480 sq foot of storage upstairs.
The new shop will not have overhead storage.
Charles
-
Oh lots of progress today... All the trusses set and some more side sheeting. The roof sheeting, shibgles and black paper arrived and will be started in the morning.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0889.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0888.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0887.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0886.jpg)
See ya,
Charles
-
In considering the height of the walls for my shop...............So with my 12 foot high walls I can have a 8' ceiling over my office, engine room, machine room, head bench room, flow bench room and long work bench with 4 ft. high storage space above. I end up with as extra 562 sq.ft. of storage I don't have to walk around.
And yes even with that my shop is still a big mess. LOL
Doug that is a great idea and I did that with part of my last shop where I had two small rooms at the end of it. Sounds like you have a shop to die for.
One thing I'm surprised that hasn't come up in the posts is removing water in the lines away from the compressor and regulators to regulate the pressure.
I have water separators and a ..............
(http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/newhouse/shop-5a.jpg)
....... regulator at the ends of my PVC lines. I keep about 125-150 lbs. of pressure in the line to the regulator and then regulate that down to about 95 for my air tools knowing there will be some more drop in pressure at the end of the rubber hose. When painting I use a regulator on the gun itself.
I'll water separator above with one like this .................
(http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/newhouse/shop-6a.jpg)
................ one that I have on another line. It lets me regulate the the air pressure, have clean air before an oiler and provides an oiler for my air tools. You can see the drain on the drop at the bottom.
c ya,
Sum
-
Water separators are great ( and necessary), but the best addition I made to my air system was a dryer - which I bought on E-bay. It's way oversized for my needs, but there's no penatly there. Really helps for painting. vic
-
Should I use a "P" trap type setup for the air drain?
-
Vic,,, do you think tractor supply there in Salsibury down from my office would have them dryer things ?
-
Any good paint supply has water seperators / traps. Also Mc Master Carr, and Grainger.
-
Should I use a "P" trap type setup for the air drain?
Not sure of your question, but if you put a valve at the bottom of the drop, just have the drop go straight down, you don't want to trap the water like in a sink drain.
Also try and have 20-30 feet of line before your first outlet so that moisture will have a chance to condense out of the air. This line can just go back and forth parallel to itself if needed.
I haven't had problems with water in my lines painting, but I'm in an area where the relative humidity is usually less than 20%, so that helps. Besides a regulator at the gun I also add one of those little water separators at the gun,
Sum
-
You guys are frickin crazy...I would never put in a PVC compressed air line.... PVC explodes when stressed like a 2x4 falling and hitting it...it splinters like glass that’s why homemade bomb guys prefer it. If you want to cheep out use ABS at least it has a tendency to rip... plastic air lines are illegal for shop use in California OSHA doesn’t like them also http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html I bet your insurance carrier wont like it either, ya might want to give him a call before you glue it together...I used K & l copper...M is too thin
Kent
-
Make your first run from the compressor/tank as long as possible and higher at the far end so the condensation can run back to the trap.
-
Charles:
Back to the electrical. The other thing I did was put several outlets down the center of the ceiling. It's sure nice to be able to drop a line and not be tripping over it when it's strung across the floor. I have some of my equipment in the middle of the shop and this works great.
Pete
-
PJ,
I will have 2 or 3 220 outlets in the ceiling (one for each lift and another spare), then at least 6 duplex outlets in the ceiling (so I can hang at least 2 if not 3 electrical cord reels)
I like my air hoses and extinsion cords and drop lights on hose/cord reels above so I don't have to trip over anything.
A good friend of mine and the guy who painted my Yellow 36 Roasdter and the Black Vicky (Larry Shoaf from RodCrafters in Welcome, NC) advised me to use Black Iron pipe in my shop... 3/4 pipe for the main lines and 1/2 for the drops..He has a good supply on hand and it may work out better for me if I can get him to help me (my big ole butt don't like being 12 foot up on them ladders.. LOL)
Charles
-
:-D
-
Yes doing painted drywall for interior walls and ceilings.
The framed walls start 44 inches above the floor, so no major concern about water or other spillage getting up to the walls.
Yep like that clean crisp look...
If you can't go fast, you better at least look good... LOL
Charles
-
I would be willing to bet that there have been more people hurt tripping over air lines in a month than there have been by "Shattering" pvc used as air pipes ever. :-D
-
Sparky;
You are undoubtedly right but I still wouldn't use PVC.
Like the old lady said when she kissed the cow, "Everybody to their own taste."
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
-
Charles - No air dryers @ Tractor Supply. A "'real" compressor sales/installation place will have info on them. Probably the most common brand is Hankinson. vic
-
Latest Update Pics,, the foundation has been water proofed, drains, gravel are in, the roof is on and the black paper is down. Shingles are next (hope they start tomorrow)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0894.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0895.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0896.jpg)
See you all late Friday afternoon or Saturday sometime..
Charles
-
Wow, that was quick. Looks ready to move in.
-
Should be ready to move in around Nov 8th. to 15th. Still have lots to get done, Outside work, like put shingles on roof, vinyl siding, gutters, garage doors...Then to the interior, wiring, sheetrock walls and ceilings, then paint, then diamond polish the floor, then pour the 32x36 parking pad and another 14x125 drive way connection to other shop and drive way. Then plumb the new compressor air lines, install the Air Hose Reels, the Elec. Cord Reels,, then move the 4 post lift and all the tool boxes and equipment...
Then go shopping for new equipment....
Oh darn, I have a real job and a Studebaker to get started on as well.... where do we find the time ???
Oh yeah, better get off here and start making a pile of stuff to load in the trailer tomorrow and pack for Maxton..
Darn, I sense a busy Winter for me and my gang...
Charles
-
Roofing done, vinyl siding about 50% done, roughed in all electrical today, 90% of grading done (just need finish grade for drive way and parking then prep for grass.
Can't find my camera (must be still hiding in truck or trailer (have not unpacked from Maxton yet)
Will get some more pics up in a day or two.
Charles
-
Hey
The shop looks great.
Nice meeting you at Maxton.
Wil
www.sakowskimotors.com
-
Wil,
Nice meeting you as well and thanks for the help running down my lil window problem with Vic... I appreciate it... to bad you could not stay and watch the runs on Sunday,,,, weather was great but a bit of a head wind...
I was able to set 2 more records...
See you next season, keep in touch,,,
Oh by the way, Nice website,,,, looks cool man.
Charles
-
Wil,
Nice meeting you as well and thanks for the help running down my lil window problem with Vic... I appreciate it... to bad you could not stay and watch the runs on Sunday,,,, weather was great but a bit of a head wind...
I was able to set 2 more records...
See you next season, keep in touch,,,
Oh by the way, Nice website,,,, looks cool man.
Charles
It is always fun being the hero, when there is a problem with a car. Thanks for letting me play with your car. It is a real sweet ride.
Come check the shop out if you are down by the beach in Wilmington, NC.
Wil
www.sakowskimotors.com
910 399 5939
Rod Riders / SCTA
-
Outside of shop about 95% Done... Insulating and hanging sheetrock Monday and Tuesday...
It's getting close to move in day !!'
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0934.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0931.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0929.jpg)
Charles
-
Looking good Charles. I am getting ready for winter in these parts. looks like your trees still have some green to them. Eric
-
Yeah today we went cruisin to a rat rod chicken stew in T shirts,,, tomorrow going to a car show and high should be 69 degrees... Trees will stay green a few more weeks it looks like,,,
Well better go detail my Yellow Roadster for tomorrows show..
Take care,
Charles
-
Well Charles a mans got to do ,what a mans got to do.
So get to work .April is just around the corner. :cheers:
Eric
-
Charles you're just making us all jealous. Hey, can I borrow some money for my shop??? :-D
-
Interest rates start at 10% and my collection methods are proven.,... LOL
-
Insulation done, Sheetrock done, compressor room done, final grading done,
Should have ceiling sprayed(orange peel/ California knock down) and walls and block painted this week, (if rain not to bad).
Garage doors next Tuesday, Main Power to Meter next Thursday.. weather permitting,, next Tue/Wed pour driveway..
Plan to have concrete floor Diamond Polished Mon, Tue, Wed before Thanksgiving and move in that weekend.
Charles
-
Ok 98% Done, Block painted gray, ceiling orange peel flat white, walls flat white, trim semi gloss white. parking area and driveway from shop one to new shop is done. Monday the garage doors will be installed and Monday afternoon they install the meter and turn the power on. Tue and Wed the shop floor will be Diamond Polished...then we are done.
Here are few pics and my photobucket link is below my signature...
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0985.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0983.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0980.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0987.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0989.jpg)
Hope you all have a good weekend and a Happy Thanksgiving..
Charles
-
Lookin' good, Charles. Let me know when you're ready to build some work benches. vic
-
Vic, I bought a Miller 210 Mig welder but the guy has not delivered it yet. I have not decided if I am going to build metal or wood benches or both. Monday the gas company is coming out to discuss heating options, I will need heat i n there before any building starts.
I will make a steel rolling work table for sure ( that will be my practice welding)
Talk to you soon... I am off all next week.. give me a shout or come on over for the tour..
Charles
-
Light we have light,,,
Duke energy put the meter in today, so we a re powered up. Both Garage doors are now up and operational (manual, no budget for the jack-shaft openers yet, have to save $ for equipment)
45KW Generator arrived today to power the Diamond Polishing equipment..I will take pics of the floor before and after...
Charles
-
Here are the finished shots before we polish the concrete floor today and tomorrow.
(man I like them electronic ballast lights.... no hum in the cold)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0997.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0999.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1002.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1003.jpg)
Charles
-
:-D
-
Holy Smokes! Here I am operating out of a completely full 22' X 24' garage and then you come along with my dream garage. I built my first street rod (see the cover of the Rod and Custom, November 1970 taken at the first street rod nats.....my T-Bucket is the one on the bottom left corner with me getting into it....or better yet, check out 50 Years of Rod and Custom on page 135) all built outside in New Jersey, mostly in the winter....I didn't have a garage, and completely built it including upholstery....but those were my college days.
Your new garage/workshop looks absolutely fantastic! I am glad to see your dream coming true Charles, as I do all my work here at home in somewhat confined spaces...you ought to see my midnight paint booth 'er driveway. 'Ya know something else that is super trick is all the great contributions everyone has made, because those of us reading your progress are also taking in consideration all the tips and hints from everyone involved.....great stuff from a great group of guys that have....been there, done that! I have read Sum's home building bloog and along with yours, it gives me faith that in the future, I too can build a garage with room to build more cars.
Thanks for the inspiration....Happy Thanksgiving to you, your family and all the other guys!
-
Thanks DSR,
The 3500 PSI floor is cutting slower than anticipated.. we may get done late Wed. night, if not crew will head home and come back Friday to do final polish and sealer.
(behind schedule, hmm this is getting normal, wanted to move in Thur/Fri, now at least may make it in Sat/Sun. ?
Charles
-
9:25pm November 28th. 2008 I am Done...
The shop is ready to move in.
Here is pic before the floor was polished
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0999.jpg)
Here is a pic after. Rather than go to the super shine of a 3000 Grit Diamond Polish, I chose to go only to 1500 grit and apply the PCP (concrete sealer/polisher) This does dull the shine some, but seals all the pores and make it dust free and provides a much better stain resitant floor.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1016.jpg)
More pics on the photobucket link in signature line.
Charles
-
How do you plan to work without spilling anything?
-
a garage like that is on my wish list. very cool.
franey
-
WHAT!!! No central vacuum system, that's cutting corners Charles.
:cheers:
-
Now Glen, we're all ready green with envy, don't make it turn into a lynch mob!!
Talk about the dream garage!! You've done it, Charles! :cheers:
Lynda
-
Lynda, maybe a Zambone ice & snow shaver to clear the drive way to his new toy shop. (for visitors)
Glad he can do it and have a great place to spend his off work hours. Wonder what the Wife gets. :-D
-
I now have a new background for my computer screen. :lol:
-
His wife gets peace and quiet and the comfort of knowing where her husband is every night!! She even knows where to find the blankets each morning!! Silly boy!! That garage is every wife's dream helper!! No mess in the house and the "little man" comes home for meals and sleeping! Who could ask for more? Well, maybe a garage of her own, but that would be a different build diary, wouldn't it!
Lynda :evil: :roll:
-
Lynda,
You are on the right track, She got her garage back. I had one of my hotrods in the upstairs garage attached to the house. Once she found out the new shop was "ready" it was get my car out of the house garage.
Charles
-
LLL---you are spot on---- :-D----when we moved from Dallas to Phoenix--my part of agreeing to RElocate was I got my own shop!!!!!!I was whining about how much it was going to cost----my wife told my to SHUT UP---that I better build it large enough to hold ALL of my STUFF---for I FOR SURE was not going to be able to keep ANYTHING in hers anymore!!!!!!!! :cheers:
-
While the weather was still OK yesterday Me and Joe put the lift on the casters and then called Richard to help us roll it down and around to the new shop. (glad I bought the casters with the lift 3 years ago). Cold and raining now.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1027.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1026.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1024.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1025.jpg)
Then after a short trip into town, Joe and I started to slow process of moving stuff into the new shop.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1049.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1048.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1047.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1046.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1042.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1043.jpg)
-
How come no wall art? Thats the first thing I do. In fact changing posters and paintings is a holiday season tradition.
DW
-
DW, yeah man I like my art as well... The cold rain was coming in last night and all day today.. So we moved the heavy stuff yesterday... I do plan on putting up some wall art and such but that will have to wait until I get all the tools and equipment in place. Plan to save the "decoration" for a colder weekend.
Charles
-
Charles with all that clutter it will be hard to work on the new car. Maybe another garage for vehicle storage during the months it,s to cold for a roadster. Other then that it looks great. Enjoy. :roll:
-
Also missing is a recliner, a lap top and a beer box. CK could show movies on the back wall if he added a bunch of folding chairs for the tar heel mob to have a place to goof off. :?
-
Glen,
I was rolling around the 3 cars yesterday in the shop just to see how everything can /could/would fit. The 3 cars will reside in the other shop (now nick named by my Bud's, "The Show and Shine Shop" ) The New shop is "THE RACE SHOP"
When the rain stops and the Show and Shine Shop is cleared out and cleaned up, the cars will retrun home to it.
Once the air compressor and other equipment get hooked up, I will bring the Studebaker home to the Race Shop to start the build on it. It will share time between my shop and Rod Crafters where the most excellent paint and body work can get done later in the process.
I also have to get the new Vicky motor done, so we can swap it out before Christmas (I hope).
Looks like I have a busy winter and spring ahead...
Charles
-
Oh, you can bet we will have a few rolling and reclining chairs in there as well as a nice cooler for our favorite beverages. Hmm good idea for the projector... I can bring my 100" Sony Projection unit from work if we need to have a Hot Rod Dinner and Movie night next spring. Hmm that might be fun...
Charles
-
I needed an excuse to get back to that hot dog shack north of town with all the racing pics! Down to my last bottle of Ed's Hot sauce too!
-
How come no wall art? Thats the first thing I do. In fact changing posters and paintings is a holiday season tradition.
DW
The first thing I would have done is dig out my old slicks, put them on my 34, and did a big smoker all the way across that shinny floor :-D :evil:
B.
P.S.
Nice shop
-
Thunder,
The floor is so slick even your Low HP ride could do a 60 ft. burnout.. LOL :cheers:
Just kidding... no burnouts on my floor....
Have a good one...Going to Lowes to buy some lumber to build a work bench and one set of fixed shelving.
-
I only see one problem with your new shop. It's going to be to small in a little while.
-
Vances law(like Murphys law), no matter how much shop space you have eventually it wont be enough. :roll:
-
Bob H and Fred V,,, yes I agree with both of you...
Shop one (the old shop) will house 3 cars, my office and misc parts and supplies and serve as the "Show and Shine Shop" so the 3 cars you see pictured in my new shop will return to the other shop once it is cleaned and ready,,, then the new shop will be the "working" and "Race" Shop...
But I imagine doown the road it will become to small,,, who knows...
Oh well gotta go get some sleep... busy day moving more stuff tomorrow...
Charles
-
Charles .. Great looking shop woth plenty of room ! ( for now ). Very nice looking cars also. I would be happy if I was able to have my shop built in 4 times as long as it took you .... but its going to take me longer. Guess I should probably quit spending money on things other than the shop. :-D
When you get involved in something you do give 100 % and get it done.
-
Why put off for tomorrow what you can do today? No one is promised tomorrow so I try to do all I can when I can... I however have run into Two major hold backs...time and money... When I figure out a formula for an un-exhaustible supply of each, I will post the formula for all my LSR friends to share :cheers:
Charles
-
Or like Andy Capp said ."Why do today what your wife can do tomorrow?" :cheers:
-
Got the Heater in yesterday. 125,000 btu..LP..
This morning at 7:36am shop was 46 degrees... at 8:00am,, just 24 minutes heater shut off and shop was 75 degrees...
I would never heat the shop to that temp,,, I just wanted to see how quick the heater could raise the temp 30 degrees.
Well, back to the drawinf board on table, bench and shelving options/builds.
-
Wow that's friggin quick. :-o
-
Bville, yeah but when the temp is down to 25 degrees, I am sure it will take more than 30 mins to raise it ??
At least I know it works and no matter how cold it gets as long as I have LP in the tank I can get enough heat.
Hope to spend some quality time in the shop over the next 3 months...
Take care.
Merry Christmas to All....
-
Well it has been just a week short of 13 months since the new shop was finished,,
I had hoped it would stay spic and span clean like new !!!
A few folks have asked me what it looks like now,,, so here a re a few spur of the moment pics from today. \
I did not clean or prepare for these pics,, the shop is in "as in condition"
Charles
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0845-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0851-2.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0852.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0846.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0853.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0847-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0855.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0848-1.jpg)
FYI- The Daily Driver Street cars are in there for an Oil Change,, they normally reside in the Garage attached to the House, not either of the shops. The Shops are for Hot Rods and Race Cars
-
Charles,
Nice looking 39 Chevy. My Grandfather gave me his when I was 13. If it was not for my Dad twisting my arm (not physically) to sell it to my brother in law, I would still have it today. What have you done to it.
Tom G.
PS. Your shop still looks good after a year.
-
Tom,
The 39 Body is all original steel (except the running boards, they are home made from 16ga steel) The Top has not been chopped. Car has been lowered, has MII front suspension with coilovers, lear spring rear, no bumpers, 9" Ford Posi of Course (3.89 gear) !! Caddy Power Trunk, Nice Interior and Guages, Chevy 350 approx 360HP (mild thumper cam) 700R4. Power Windows and Locks, Air and Heat. Tilt etc.. all the normal Street Rod stuff. It has been built since 1999... Great Driver... has about 12,000 miles on it. Cruises at 75MPH at approx. 2200 rpms.
Charles
-
Man how do you keep that shop so clean :? :? :?
I can turn on the light and get mine all messed up :-D :-D
Thats just me i guess :lol:
Robbie
-
Robbie,, there is no real answer to that question,, the shop is dirtier than it appears in the photos... What you can't see is the cluttered work benches, machine areas, tool areas and equipment and cluttered shelving, I have to dodge all that in the front of the shop,(all behind me in the pics).
Charles
-
Charles, please don't challenge us to show photos of our shops/garages. Mine is about the same age as yours -- but not quite so clean (!!). I'll admit, though, that you do way more work in yours -- that's probably why it's so nice looking.
Hunh?
-
Jon,
The main reason mine may appear a bit cleaner than some,,, is the work is split between 3 shops...
The one pictured (nick named . "the Garage Ma Hall") I just call it #2 is for general maintnance, light fab, some minor mechanical work, tuning etc. and vehicle storage.
My other one (next door to this one) is my office, and the Detail Shop,,, nick named the Show and Shine Shop..I call it #1
The major build, welding, paint and body is done 5 miles from here at Rod Crafters
It is much eaisier to keep a shop clean when you do no paint and body work in it (other than light touch up, pin stripping, lettering ect)
Charles
-
No, what's your next reason? I don't do painting OR bodywork -- and mine isn't that clean. Let's see -- i do drag in quite a bit of highway grunge mixed with snow and slush, and that stuff melts in the 40F garage -- so there's always mud on the floor. And I start all vehicles in the building and THEN open the overhead doors (to minimise the amount of heated air that escapes/cold air that comes in -- so I get some exhaust crud on the walls. And let's go on, the garage is only ten feet of so from the wood boiler/heating system, so there's a bit of wood smoke -- and dust from the daily dose of powdered lime that I put in the firebox to keep the slag formation at a minimum.
Nope -- excuses are just that. I envy your nice clean shop. Good work, sir!
-
"A clean shop is a sign of a truly sick mind"......Shakespeare.........................
-
Jon, Ok,,, I give in,,, my shop is cleaner... (yours is "mulit use") :cheers:
To make you feel better, I will enlist you to help me in the cone labeling for next year... I will label all the girls cones,,, you can do the guys.
I will bring my bold and fine tip Sharpies :evil:
Charles
-
Robbie,
Here are a few shots of the snow we got Friday night. (3 to 4 inches most places,, some drifts to 6 inches)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0869.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0867.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0864.jpg)
-
Charles,
All we got was a lot of rain.
If we got that much snow here it would have shut the Rocky Mount down. If it gets more than 3/4" down here most people can't drive. :lol:
I did see some snow but Tim had to go to Virginia to get it!!
Robbbie
-
Robbie,,, Friday afternoon and evening in the 4 surrounding counties there where 800 "Reported" car wrecks,, and I would imagine 100's more that did not call for help.
The Stores all ran out of Milk and Bread by 1:00 yesterday afternoon,,, Even McDonalds clsoed after lunch yesterday and still closed today,,,getting down to 25 tonight, so will be like a Ice Rink most of tomorrow.
Talk Later....
Charles
-
Welcome to winter Charles. Now imagine that with deeper cold and waiting for April for it to go away. The driver do, after considerable practice, get somewhat better. :roll: :roll: :-D
Pete
-
Peter, yep I learned to drive in Bend Or, so I am use to deep snow and cold winters. I am not concerned about me,,, it's the other drivers that concern me.
Charles
-
Charles,
Your shop has more light bulbs then mine has square feet. :cheers: Nishe!
-
Andrew,
I have just enough lights in the shop to see how much more work we have ahead of us.....LOL
See ya soon.
Charles
-
Nice shop and nice vehicles!
I wish I could take 10 steps out of my house and be at my shop!
:cheers:
-
Looks like reply #159's a spambot Jon.
Pete
-
Thanks Greg,,, come by and visit sometime,,,
Pete,,,, you are reply #159 ??
Charles
-
Jon removed the spambot so I became #159. Probably just his sense of humour. (Thanks Slim! :-D)
Pete
-
Pete,,,
Jon is evil like that,,,, I am sure he figured out I would catch that... ya know.. me being so detailed LOL
Charles