Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => Build Diaries => Topic started by: isiahstites on August 14, 2008, 11:08:51 PM
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I bought this last month for $2700 it is an 03' Hayabusa with 11500 miles on the clock. The bike has a salvaged title as it was laid down on its right side. It only had minor damage to everything else on the bike with the exception of the fairing.
This is going to be my next land speed project. I have lots of plans for this bike and anticipate a long build time on this one as I have another bike I need to finish to pay for this one and I still have half of the racing season left with my Buell.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_2960.jpg)
Here it is stripped down and almost ready to race in the unfaired class. I may run the bike at El Mirage the last two events of the year in its current configuration. Thanks to John Noonan for hooking me up with a starter cover so I could get her running. John and a member of another forum helped me figure out how to bypass the ignition since I didn't have a key and I got her running yesterday. I am pretty amazed at how strong the bike is in stock form.
Once I start building the bike it is going to see major changes, starting with a custom frame that I will build from scratch and lots of other custom one off parts to make her go fast. Eventually when the chassis is done and the stock motor is bolted up and ready to run I will add a turbo system with more one off parts in hopes of making 500 horse. I plan on going really fast on this one.......it's just gonna take some time until I get there.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_3077.jpg)
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congrats on such an excellant purchase,great value there!. 8-)I have a nieve question: what is it about this HAYABUSA engine that is so much better at making power than any other engine....what did they do to make it so good? :roll:
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congrats on such an excellant purchase,great value there!. 8-)I have a nieve question: what is it about this HAYABUSA engine that is so much better at making power than any other engine....what did they do to make it so good? :roll:
Big and strong...
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Boy that sure cleaned up nice! It's just begging to be riddin naked! :-D
Deb
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Boy that sure cleaned up nice! It's just begging to be riddin naked! :-D
Deb
Deb - I know you like to ride naked but I prefer to wear the proper gear! :-D
Scott
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I am pretty amazed at how strong the bike is in stock form.
You do have a "free flowing" exhaust......I bet it sounds like the apocalypse!
Just for kicks you should do a few passes in your neighborhood around midnight....Oh the fun!
Hate to see you take the bike apart for the motor.....with a new headlight the thing would make a killer street fighter.....some would argue that the busa looks better this way!
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I am pretty amazed at how strong the bike is in stock form.
You do have a "free flowing" exhaust......I bet it sounds like the apocalypse!
Just for kicks you should do a few passes in your neighborhood around midnight....Oh the fun!
Hate to see you take the bike apart for the motor.....with a new headlight the thing would make a killer street fighter.....some would argue that the busa looks better this way!
Yes, it does sound quite good with the "free flowing" exhaust! I have already made the neighborhood passes......not a problem on this bike as it is not near as load as the Buell.
As far as taking it apart for the motor, I will be taking it a part for the wheels, swing arm, front end and motor along with other misc parts I will need. I have a good working functional headlight that I took off so I would not ride it on the street.
Scott
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Since finding out that the motor only had 11500 miles on it I have been anxious to get the bike down to the dyno. I was hoping it would make decent power and I was hoping to find out if there were any internal mods done to the motor. After a phone call to Noonan to see what a stock Hayabusa should make (he said 153 hp) for horespower. I took the bike down to MDR and made a few passes amd was pleased after my runs to know that my motor is good and making 151 hp and 92 ft tq.
I only made a few passes just to test the motor and to get a baseline as I plan on a big tear down of the motor in the future. So far my $2700 Hayabusa is getting sweeter by the day!
Scott
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_3099.jpg)
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The fact is that the fewer mods done to the bike is better off for you.
I purchased a motor that still had the pair valve installed and stock header.
It had 10K miles on it but it was clear by looking that they had been highway miles (even had mud in the rad). Turns out that this was true after meeting the original owner....he used it as a commuter bike and never had been over 75 mph and got rid of it because it frightened him.
You can bet that if someone did a bunch of bolt on stuff he was not happy with the HP of the motor and wanted more……and this means it had the poop run out of it.
Just my advice to you…..dont buy any bike that I have ever owned!!!!!
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Nice bike, Scott!
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I am planning on racing the busa next weekend at El Mirage so I had some stuff to get ready so it would pass tech.
Well here is where I started today. I had to take the wheels off to balance them and put in metal valve stems.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_3714.jpg)
Finished the saftey wiring
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_3716.jpg)
Steering stops
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_3717.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_3718.jpg)
Home made kill switch
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_3719.jpg)
I had to put metal valve stems on the wheels
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_3720.jpg)
Here is my home made thrity minute battery hold down.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_3721.jpg)
I cut the mud flap, license plate and blinkers off.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_3722.jpg)
I am running with no mufflers so I have to extend them a little to get the exhaust away from my feet.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_3724.jpg)
I cut some exhaust tubing and notched it in 4 places
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_3725.jpg)
I will put an exhaust clamp on to hold it in place.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_3726.jpg)
Here is all of the stuff I removed off of the bike today...........I sold a bunch of the stuff I orginally took off of the bike and made about $600, so $2700 Busa is now a $2100 Busa.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_3727.jpg)
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Hey Scott...that motor still have the PAIR?
I would recomend pulling it without mufflers.
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why?
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Hey Scott...that motor still have the PAIR?
I would recomend pulling it without mufflers.
Huh?? Pair??
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PAIR valve = Giant octopus in the front of the motor that lets exhaust to go back into the intake.
Some people say it makes more (3-5) HP with the removal. This may be true but I dont know for sure (it for sure doesnt make less!!!).
I know for a fact that once you open up the exhaust it will back fire like a motha if the Pair is still installed.
Also the Pair is fairly heavy (7 pounds?)....good to get it off the bike.
http://www.wardsweb.org/busa/hayabusa_mods_pairvalve.html
The bike may have already had the Pair removed. Its like the first thing you do when you get a busa (easy to make your own Pair blockoffs for a few more HP, cheap if you buy them and some weight reduction)
-JH
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No, I am going to leave for it two reasons, 1st being time and the second being lack of knowledge on what exactly it does........until I research it, it is staying..........I am not gonna break any records on this bike right now as it is total stock. I would just like to try and get as close to 175 as possible and maybe get my B license.
Scott
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I said it puts exhaust in the intake....this is wrong, it puts air in the exhaust.
It wont hurt anything to leave it on, but when it idles rough and backfires you will know where to go!
-JH
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Also you can exchange the 2 long velocity stacks in the airbox for 2 short (all shorts) and you will pick up HP on the top (you will loose 2 HP on the bottom and gain 5 on the top)
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johnny... taking the par (not pair) off will loose hp....its a fact..period! and i didnt do my research on the internet i did mine on the DYNO....5 on the top for short stacks is totally crazy its like a 1/2 at the soft spot at 8500 and maybe 2 on the top and who cares about the bottom..... get off the internet and buy a dyno then you'll be living in the real world
kent
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Kent, make no mistake I respect your opinion but I would like you to explain how adding air into the exhaust to promote combustion of unburnt fuel will add hp.
I could agree that it doesnt make more HP but can not get how it will make more HP with the Pair installed. The math just doesnt add up in my head.
I would like to see what JN says about it.
-JH
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I'm sure the PAR on the Busa is like the one on the 1000, you can pull the large hose that goes to the air box, and hook it to the hose that goes to the vent, then the PAR uses the exhaust to draw vacuum on the crankcase. Kent, does this improve the HP? Sure seemed to help the 1000.
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Stainless, what you are referring to is called the sucker mod for a hayabusa.
A very reputable engine builder told me that the engine doesnt pull enough vacuum at high RPMs to get a performance increase.
Some people argue that even at high RPMS the motor still pulls enough inches vac to help.
I cant say anything on this but many people say they are making bigger #s with this mod.
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stainless Yep! :-D Johnny...big HP or little HP it doesn't make a difference..ya add up all the little +"s and now ya got something.... tell your reputable engine builder he's wrong...you can show up any time and you can stick your finger on my hose and see for how much vacume for yourself.... The proof is on the dyno baby.... now on a drag bike a siphon vacuum system like this probably wont pull enough vacuum by the end of a pass thats why all the prostock bikes run 2 (TWO) electric vacuum pumps.. now on a 90 second LSR pass she shurely has enough vacuum to suck a bowling ball through a garden hose...especially if ya get in the PAR and port and modity it for better flow and performance.... score 1 for the dyno and 0 for the internet experts :-D
kent
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KR, it would be somewhat naive on your part to assume that the "internet experts" I refer to do not themselves have a dyno.
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My 1000 has enough suction that if you take out the oil filler plug it will scare you into thinking it will suck your thumb into the clutch when you test to see if it is pulling a vacuum. The vacuum line that controls the PAR is removed and it is always on... We use the electric pump on the car for the same effect.
All the little things add up sooner or later :-D
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Kent, make no mistake I respect your opinion but I would like you to explain how adding air into the exhaust to promote combustion of unburnt fuel will add hp.
I could agree that it doesnt make more HP but can not get how it will make more HP with the Pair installed. The math just doesnt add up in my head.
I would like to see what JN says about it.
-JH
JH,
No you would not..
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noonan's gotta do somethin with his hair dryer
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Stainless you are spot on--- it dosent matter where you get the + & - from---- as long as one is able to get them to the correct area you go faster. need all the + going to the ground and the - to the air---very simple right---lol :cheers:
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Johnny
yes it would be naive of me to think your internet experts dont have dynos.... that crossed cross into my head... what i actually was thinkin is, i dont think they know how to use their dyno.!... i figger a dyno is like a hammer... some people know how to hit the nail and others just hit there thumbs... as for internet experts, most should be hit with a hammer! :-o
kent
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Well it has been awhile since I last posted on this build...........things have changed quite a bit for me........I went back to school full time to get a degree in business. Needless to say my time with bike is and will be limited. I have been thinning the heard and only have a few bikes left and they will be sold as well, I am going to keep the busa as my one and only bike.
I had big plans for this bike and still do, however they are going to take much longer with school, work, a wonderful 8 month old baby girl and my lovely wife. They all need lots of attention so the bike comes last.
Today I did have a few hours to work on the busa. It was great to be back in the garage turning wrenchs!!
I took the gas tank and air box off so I could get to the plugs and injectors.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4515.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4516.jpg)
I removed the injectors, I am giving them to my friend Kent who is going to send them off to his friend to check them out. It is possible one of them is clogged or blocked as the bike has been running weird.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4513.jpg)
Took off the radiator and oil cooler as well so I could install my new Yoshimura SS header.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4514.jpg)
Old header is removed and I am giving it to my friend Kent for all of the help he has and continues to give me.....
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4512.jpg)
Here is what the bike looked like after a few hours
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4517.jpg)
Kent is making me a pan for the seat so I can get my big ass out of the wind and I am going to fill the void in front of the seat with a hand built gas tank.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4518.jpg)
I have been buying parts to run no2 as well. So far, I have most of the lines, solenoids, bottle, purge systems, fuel pump, and a regulator. I am in the hunt for PCIII or equivelant and a no2 controller. I plan on running stock for a while and maybe by the end of the year I will be able to spray the bike.
Scott
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Scott,
FYI:
Before you start working on a race vehicle it is better and easier to work on one you have cleaned in the last 5 months or so..get rid of the dirt and grime and dig in to the build..
Hope all is well.
J
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Plus.......I would make certain those welding bottles in the background are secured..............
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Hey Scott congrats on going back to school. I did the work full time and school full time and it isn't easy and I didn't have a wife and kid at the time. Stick with it and you will be done at some point and probably glad you did it.
Also have fun on the bike when you can. My grades always suffered during the spring when the weather got warm enough to ride in Wyoming 8-).
c ya,
Sum
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John - I wish I had time to clean the bike. It is on my long list of things to do........
Scott
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I got my new airbox and air ducts from Kent at Airtech and have started the installation process. Looking at my stock box and my stock ducts this should provide a lot more air.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4728.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4729.jpg)
My injectors have been cleaned and calibrated. I had one injector that had a "fair" pattern and was flowing a low volume of fuel. The other three were good, all are now excellent.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4731.jpg)
Stacks installed
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4732.jpg)
My plan for a fuel tank
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4735.jpg)
The plan in sheet metal
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4733.jpg)
I do not have any tool to bend sheet metal so I cut small grooves where I wanted the bends.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4736.jpg)
Here is the bottom part of the fuel tank
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4738.jpg)
And the top, it will be a two piece tank
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4740.jpg)
I made four holes with a one inch holesaw and then used a die grinder to complete the job for the filler neck.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4741.jpg)
Here is the tank with the filler neck welded in. I will wait to weld the rest of the tank until later this week after the rest of my fuel bungs show up.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4742.jpg)
Here is the tank on the bike
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4743.jpg)
Tank and airbox
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4744.jpg)
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I do not have any tool to bend sheet metal so I cut small grooves where I wanted the bends.
Bike is looking good!
If you have some angle iron and c-clamps, it's easier and faster.
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Scott get some short stacks for the middle cylinders. you dont need those long stacks for what you are doing.
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Scott get some short stacks for the middle cylinders. you dont need those long stacks for what you are doing
+1
Fred, ya beat me to it!
4 short stacks will yeald more HP at the top, slightly less in the low end but will make more overall peak on the top.
Well worth the effort to find 2 more shorts.
~JH
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24.95 for a pair from schnitz racing, I think it is a pair. :?
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Scott get some short stacks for the middle cylinders. you dont need those long stacks for what you are doing.
Thanks Fred, I had already put my feelers out for some yesterday. Today a friend from another site is sending me some for the price of the shipping.
Scott
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I do not have any tool to bend sheet metal so I cut small grooves where I wanted the bends.
Bike is looking good!
If you have some angle iron and c-clamps, it's easier and faster.
I think I understand, but maybe you could fill me in to make sure.
Scott
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Scott,
Looking Good..
Those after market ram air ducts may not be legal when viewed by some inspectors, I can't recall who it was showed up in a naked class and was told to remove them..Bob M or Jon W..?
J
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Seems like there is often somebody on one of these sites to help out, I have had people give me parts and pay the freight, even though I tried. lots of good people. :cheers:
Fred
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Scott,
Looking Good..
Those after market ram air ducts may not be legal when viewed by some inspectors, I can't recall who it was showed up in a naked class and was told to remove them..Bob M or Jon W..?
J
I guess the rules are always changing, or at least the interpretation.... several have used them to set records... they do not add aero, they are like the roadsters with the intake sticking out in front... a way to get clean air to the motor...
On the other hand, you may hate your gas tank position. It looks like it will make your tuck a lot harder. We had one in that position, always worried about the gas seal being disturbed by the rubbing leathers.
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Scott,
We also run an Air Tech air box, we were told that in the "naked" classes, the ram air tubes might "direct air around the front of the bike" and thus were illegal. We took them off for that event but came back the next year with a "stubby" set of ram air tubes that did not extend past the rear edge of the forks, no problems with tech, we just cut down a stock set of tubes.
-Scott
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Scott,
We also run an Air Tech air box, we were told that in the "naked" classes, the ram air tubes might "direct air around the front of the bike" and thus were illegal. We took them off for that event but came back the next year with a "stubby" set of ram air tubes that did not extend past the rear edge of the forks, no problems with tech, we just cut down a stock set of tubes.
-Scott
Scott B.
Thank you..I remember it was someone that had to remove them...
J
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I do not have any tool to bend sheet metal so I cut small grooves where I wanted the bends.
Bike is looking good!
If you have some angle iron and c-clamps, it's easier and faster.
I think I understand, but maybe you could fill me in to make sure.
Scott
If you don't understand, you're over complicating it! :-D
Mark line for bend, clamp pair of angle iron up to line with C-clamps and bend the piece over. The second angle iron piece prevents the C-clamp for marking up the aluminum as much and could be a piece of plywood or something. :cheers:
At the rate I'm buying tools for cheap, I'll run across a real bender at some point.
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John, I had to remove the air tubes from the ZX12R when running naked. So that makes at least a pair of us. And remember that it's up to the discretion of the inspector/judge in impound on whether the tubes are illegal. If the inspector that does your bike BEFORE giving you an "inspected" sticker says no -- I'd consider checking with impound for his/their opinion. Remember - the first inspection is for safety, not class compliance. It'd be a heck of a note to qualify and back up a record and then find that you're not going to get the record because the guy in impoound says no. If it went the other way -- you took 'em off and still set a record, then found you could have left them on -- well, I guess that'd be one way of sandbagging.
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On the other hand, you may hate your gas tank position. It looks like it will make your tuck a lot harder. We had one in that position, always worried about the gas seal being disturbed by the rubbing leathers.
John - I built the tank to get rid of the stock tank so I could tuck. The stock gas tank and my now what seems to be permanent stomach interfered with one another. It was cheaper to remove the gas tank over my stomach. When I was building the tank I was constantly checking for clearances to ensure my legs and stomach had room.
Scott
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John, I had to remove the air tubes from the ZX12R when running naked. So that makes at least a pair of us. And remember that it's up to the discretion of the inspector/judge in impound on whether the tubes are illegal. If the inspector that does your bike BEFORE giving you an "inspected" sticker says no -- I'd consider checking with impound for his/their opinion. Remember - the first inspection is for safety, not class compliance. It'd be a heck of a note to qualify and back up a record and then find that you're not going to get the record because the guy in impoound says no. If it went the other way -- you took 'em off and still set a record, then found you could have left them on -- well, I guess that'd be one way of sandbagging.
Nothing like consistency in rule interpretation... and that is what you get sometimes.... :| hopefully it doesn't depend on your relationship with the person that decides... :x
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Nothing like consistency in rule interpretation... and that is what you get sometimes.... :| hopefully it doesn't depend on your relationship with the person that decides... :x
[/quote]
Or your zip code :roll:
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Long time no hear conspiracy therories.
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It took all week for me to gather all of the small items to make everything come together. It always seems like when I am building a bike it is all of the small special items, misc nuts and bolts that break the bank and take the longest to get.
Got the bracket from the stock seat mounted to the seat pan.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4746.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4747.jpg)
Weather stripping instead around the ducts for a good seal
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4748.jpg)
And the inside as well
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4749.jpg)
The second set of short stacks are installed along with IAT sensor.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4839.jpg)
New Yosh header installed, along with the oil cooler and radiator
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4840.jpg)
Bodywork is complete from where the previous owner wrecked the bike. I will paint it tomorrow.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4841.jpg)
To save time I borrowed this tank from my friend Kent at Airtech. This was Noonans old tank, but I do not think it ever made it to a bike as I had to have a bung welded in for the gas cap.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4836.jpg)
Also had to weld in the flange for the stock pump, my friend Shannon did all of the welding as I suck at welding aluminum.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4837.jpg)
Stock pump installed
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4838.jpg)
Tank installed! The tank was designed to sit lower, however with the stock pump it made it sit up a few inches so I made spacers to mount the tank to the old tank mount location. It works well and I can get way down on the tank and aribox.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4842.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4843.jpg)
I got the bike fired up today and took it for a test run! I am very happy with the way the bike is running. I hope to get to the dyno before next week so I can flash my ecu and make a few changes. If I have time I will add a dry shot of NOS, which at this point I do not think that is going to happen. The injector cleaning definately helped as the throttle is smooth and crisp, the bike seems more responsive and I believe there is some more power there.
A big thanks to J. Noonan, B. Moreland, K. Riches and R. Nelson for all of there help and support.
Scott
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I had to cut part of the mid-pipe to accomodate my megaphone. Also welded in the 02 bung for my data logger.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4844.jpg)
After I finished the bodywork repairs I painted everything.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4845.jpg)
Front view of the bike
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4852.jpg)
Side shit with everything painted. I still need to make a bracket to support the megaphone. The exhasut sounds mean, but then again all busa's sound mean. I also need to flash the ecu and get down to the dyno.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_4853.jpg)
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isiahstites, I am really glad to see the header (looks great BTW) on the bike and hope it wasnt too much of a problem with the missing tab.
I also have a Murrary exhaust megaphone you can have if the one you currently run isnt working for whatever reason (it is a good bit longer as it is for a sidewinder) although I dont see any issues with your current setup just know that it is an option if ya need it.
Also....
That header has already been to the salt and earned a record.
I hope it brings you luck also.
Everything looks great~
~JH
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isiahstites, I am really glad to see the header (looks great BTW) on the bike and hope it wasnt too much of a problem with the missing tab.
I also have a Murrary exhaust megaphone you can have if the one you currently run isnt working for whatever reason (it is a good bit longer as it is for a sidewinder) although I dont see any issues with your current setup just know that it is an option if ya need it.
Also....
That header has already been to the salt and earned a record.
I hope it brings you luck also.
Everything looks great~
~JH
I am never one to say no to free parts! I am going to be doing some dyno testing on different megaphones so send it if you can. Let me know how it costs to ship.
No problems with the header at all. I should of re-welded the tab on prior to putting it on the bike because now I need to support the megaphone, if that tab was there I wouldn't need one at the megaphone. No big deal, the price was right and I appreciate your efforts to try and help.
Scott
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Scott it's looking real good. I think you'll like Kent's intakes. The throttle response should be crisp like a two-stroke (it's amazing what they can do with a 4cyl and engine management these days).
What size/type fasteners did you use for your steering stops? I technically don't need mine for Production Class unless the rule has recently changed but I will probably add them after this first race when I have more time.
Were you able to drill/tap them on the bike or did you have to pull the triple?
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Shane,
I drilled and tapped mine while it was on the bike..
See you there...
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Sweet - thx John.
Scott when you welded that bung on the Yosh.... Is that Titanium you're welding to? Or is the Yosh some sort of steel?
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Sweet - thx John.
Scott when you welded that bung on the Yosh.... Is that Titanium you're welding to? Or is the Yosh some sort of steel?
I drilled and tapped as well Shane, there should be pictures in thi build diary somewhere. Stainless pipe, stainless bung.
Scott
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It has been awhile since I posted in this thread as I was busy racing all season, going to school and playing with my daughter.
At any rate we had a pretty good season, had a top speed of 185 mph and got two records at BUB.
Back to building........new bodywork sitting on my Buell.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5610.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5611.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5612.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5613.jpg)
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Thanks to the help of several members here on LSR.com I got my tubing bender stand built.
My tubing bender needs a stand!!
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5655.jpg)
Here is the bottom mounting location, the smaller piece bolts to the top of your mount. I am going to build my own stand as I don't see the need nor do I have the money to spend for a $120 stand from JD2.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5656.jpg)
A 3"x3" piece of square tube will be used to get to the height of 40"
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5666.jpg)
Cutting the square tube, this takes awhile to cut but the benefits are a square cut.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5667.jpg)
Square cut
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5668.jpg)
I bought this red paint marker a month or so ago for this project. What a difference as my marks do not disappear from heat like they do with permanent marker and the red shows up even when sparks are flying. Where have you been all of my life?? Great thing about the marker is it will mark on almost all surfaces where as the permanent marker will not.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5670.jpg)
Here is my 9 x 9 mounting plate and my 3 1/2 x 7 top plate. I went a 1/2 inch over on the top plate so I would have a 1/4 on each side for welding. Also not the cut-off wheels, both were new before I started. One of them got away from me and yanked the grinder out of my hand and onto the floor. Good thing I had my gloves, faceshield and safety boots on. That 1/4 steel is not joke.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5671.jpg)
Here is the idea, the bender will mount to the top small piece and the base plate will be secured to the concrete floor via red heads.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5672.jpg)
I still have holes to drill in both pieces, welding and painting. Its small progress on a big project.
Scott
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Scott,
The new Air Tech body looks great on the Buell!
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I used a fender wahser to mark all four corners of the base plate so they would all be the same.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5673.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5675.jpg)
I then marked the mounting plate.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5676.jpg)
Drilled some small pilot holes.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5677.jpg)
Then drilled the holes to 1/2 inch
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5678.jpg)
Then to 13/16ths for the 3/4" bolts. The finger is for referenece of how large the drill bit is.......had to drill really slow with that bit.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5680.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5681.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5682.jpg)
I then grinded all of the rust and any contaments off down to bare metal for welding purposes.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5683.jpg)
I then tacked the mounting and base plates into place.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5684.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5685.jpg)
Final welding....man am I rusty I haven't welded in over a year.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5686.jpg)
The almost (need anchor bolts) tubing bender stand.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5687.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5688.jpg)
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Picked this set-up real cheap from a fellow club member and racer. This should help in the HP department!
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5934.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5935.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5936.jpg)
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After work today I stopped at my friend Randy's shop and he helped me start to build my upright to hold the head stock for the frame. We used a 3/8s end mill for the slots and a large holesaw for the 4 bigger holes.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5996.jpg)
It is not finished, but this is how it will stand. The larger holes are for access to the back side of the slots.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5996.jpg)
The upright is 3x3 and the small piece at the bottom is 3.5x3.5
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5998.jpg)
The 3.5x 3.5 piece we be used to determine the head angle and will slide up and down on the upright when I am finished.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5999.jpg)
First I need to cut it in half so I have to right angles and then make a few more cuts and drill a few holes.
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Scott,
The new Air Tech body looks great on the Buell!
The cudos should go to Kent he is the one who made the bodywork. However, the bodywork is not for the Buell.
Scott
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Records from BUB
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5937.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5938.jpg)
This is the configuration the bike was raced in at BUB, completely naked.
What the bike looks like now.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/090913108.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/Hayabusa%20Build/100_5361.jpg)
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Too many injectors for the turbo to go on the Buell. :-D So you are going to turbo the busa and put that nice body work on it?? Sounds like you are real serious this year. Good luck and keep us posted. :cheers:
Fred
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If you weld pins up the sides of the post you can hang the dies on them and they're handy when you need them and you don't take up shelf space. Make them long enough that you can hang all three pieces from one die set on each pin.
Pete
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Great idea!
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Sounds like you are real serious this year. Good luck and keep us posted. :cheers:
Have I not been serious in the past? :-D
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Scott, is that two different tails you have pictures of??
Fred
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Scott, is that two different tails you have pictures of??
Fred
No........but don't take me serious! :-D :-D :-D
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Started to build the build table for the chassis
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6000.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6001.jpg)
Frame work is done and on wheels
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6002.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6003.jpg)
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Here is the almost complete table. I am pretty beat from building this and being sick. I still need to add risers in the center of the table to keep it from sagging. The last bike I built on a table like this made the center sag. As the table sits it is level from left to right, however from front to back it is slightly off. I am not sure if it is the table or the floor and I didn't check as I plan on using screw jacks at each end of the table to completely level everything prior to building.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6004.jpg)
Here is the unfinished upright for the head stock with the motor in place. I will finish the upright later.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6005.jpg)
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Scott, your garage floor is usually sloped toward the door for drainage. Get well and get back on the saddle. :cheers:
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I made it out to the garage today, which I did not think would happen as I have been pretty dam sick for a week. Also got in a little O.T. at work today, got a phone call on my way to the store to pick up some cough drops and I was close so I went in and did a 20 minute inspection/repair and got two hours of O.T.
Here is the tool of choice today.......oh, and I cut the square tube in half.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6006.jpg)
This is for 6, I used my silver pencil......the red marker shit on me today.......I makred the portion of the now angle iron to be cut away.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6007.jpg)
After I finished my cut I had to find the center of the piece for the head stock to mount to.......it needs to be center as the table will have a center line that this will have to match. The entire build will be based off of the center line. I used the 2x4's just a reference point and the reflection of the lazer for the picture.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6010.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6012.jpg)
A hole will be drilled where the lines intersect and the head stock will be mounted at the location. I still need to machine the head and the centering cones.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6013.jpg)
Here it is on the table with the base plate, which I still need to build.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6015.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6016.jpg)
In case anyone was wondering here are what the four holes in the back of the upright are for.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6017.jpg)
Changed tools as I ran out of the other.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6009.jpg)
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I cut this plate out and drilled the holes so it could me mounted to any table. I then marked a 3 x 3 square in the center so I could weld the upright in place.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6019.jpg)
Here is the upright with the plate welded on and ready for mounting.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6026.jpg)
After I finished the welding I cut the other half of the square tube that will be used for the head stock to mount so that it could mount the same but higher up.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6028.jpg)
It's job will be to hold a laser pointer that will project a straight line down the center of the table through the neck and the rear axle to ensure the chassis is straight. I mounted a larger laser I have for the picture, I will order a smaller one that will mount to the fixture.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6027.jpg)
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So, have you decided what kind of chassis you're going to build yet?
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So, have you decided what kind of chassis you're going to build yet?
Yep, a tube frame chassis! :-D :-o
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I have been really busy lately and have not had much time to work on this project. I have been working on other peoples bikes lately to make some extra cash for this project. I finally sold and shipped my CBR and on Monday I bought a Hayabusa for a commuter. I hope things settle down in the coming weeks so I can make some progress on this project.
Here is the neck that will used.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6275.jpg)
I did some work for a friend and he gave this harness and practically everything else I will need to wire the new bike. This was huge! My current harness gave me nothing but trouble at the Mojave Mile due to all of the corrosion from the bike being raced at Bonneville.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6278.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6279.jpg)
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Hey Scott....had the same wire harness experience on an EFI roadster. I finally mounted the ECM and all the relays in a tupperware box (brought the harnesses in the bottom, then glued/bolted the flap I'd cut). I could take the lid off to get at stuff and reflash when needed. That solved all the weird problems for years.
Anyway....I'm going to try wiring my bikes so the harnesses are all "outside", which means I'll be able to pull harnesses and components without having to take apart all the wiring (which means nothing passed through small holes and then large connectors/components added on). I'm hoping I can do it, in order to make it easier to get the harnesses off for cleanup and service.
See you some time, along the way...
JimL
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Put the bike up on the stand. After I tear her down I need to add the center supports to the table to ensure it does not bow during the build process as I need the table to be as flat as possible.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6466.jpg)
Started tearing her down...........the motors next. Should be real easy with the front wheel out of the way.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6469.jpg)
Here is the triple tree set-up without my new neck in place.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6471.jpg)
And here is the new neck my friend made, a perfect fit.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6470.jpg)
The bearings fit nicely.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6472.jpg)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_6473.jpg)