Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => Build Diaries => Topic started by: Sumner on February 08, 2008, 01:34:58 PM
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(http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/bvillecar-2/2-6-8-15%20ch%20dr.jpg)
............ operating mechanism is done and seems to work. I put a crude video of it in operation on YouTube here...(I would not look at it at full screen as it is not that good)...........
http://www.youtube.com/v/UV4nx7LMIXI"
.............. and you can find the detail of how it was made and pictures here.....
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/bvillecar-2/construction%20page-98.html
......... and here.....
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/bvillecar-2/construction%20page-99.html
I'm also wondering is anyone actually reading all of the BS that I'm typing on the build pages and should I continue with that or just post pictures??
c ya,
Sum
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It is looking good. Why don't you keep all of your progress under one build diary, that way you and all of us can see start to finish. :-D
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Reading is FUNdamental. :wink:
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Sum, what bothers me is the attach point being so far up inside and if the chutes(tow line) hits with any side load on the door what would happen to the back of the car. :-o
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Sum:
It's 3.07 PM and I just went to the video -- get a "Sorry, this video is no longer available" message. Did you have the Paris Hilton video on in the background and they took you off the air?
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Sum, what bothers me is the attach point being so far up inside and if the chutes(tow line) hits with any side load on the door what would happen to the back of the car. :-o
Hi Glen, I'm in the process now of moving the chute attach points much further back and they will be just a ways inside of the door. Before I was way off on where the actual back of the car was going to be, messed up on my trig functions. Then the attach point wouldn't have been that far in.
Thanks for keeping an eye on me,
Sum
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It is looking good. Why don't you keep all of your progress under one build diary, that way you and all of us can see start to finish. :-D
It is all right here:
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/bvillecar/bvillecarindexpage.html
I've just been posting some bits and pieces here,
Sum
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Sum:
It's 3.07 PM and I just went to the video -- get a "Sorry, this video is no longer available" message. Did you have the Paris Hilton video on in the background and they took you off the air?
I'm not sure what happened, but try this link, it seems to work:
http://www.youtube.com/v/UV4nx7LMIXI"
Sum
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That works. I looked at the first one this morning and when jon said it didnt work at 3 I tried it and it had quit.
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Just make sure you pull regular and exessive maintenance. An awful lot of moving parts. Salt is a wonderful "inhibitor".
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That is it !!
I am going to invent something and call it "Salt of the Earth Locking Fluid".
I am going to move quickly on it before my taxes go up again. :-D
Remember, loose running surface material will tend to collect in the low pressure area.
Ask anybody that ever got dusted out of their sealed drivers compartment.
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Sum, when activating the doors to deploy the chutes, is there a separate release for the doors before the chute or is it a simultaneous function? On the Ack Attack, I have to open the doors before the chute. If the bike leans too far, the doors automatically come open and the chute deploys. In '07, I didn't wait, and opened the doors manually as I was going down and released the chutes immediately after. Didn't want to take the chance of a door being damaged and not allowing the chute to deploy.
When I open the doors by themselves, it acts as an airbrake, causing drag, but very neutral as far as side pull. It allowed me to scrub off speed before the big hit of the parachute. Very user friendly...
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Sum, when activating the doors to deploy the chutes, is there a separate release for the doors before the chute or is it a simultaneous function? On the Ack Attack, I have to open the doors before the chute. If the bike leans too far, the doors automatically come open and the chute deploys. In '07, I didn't wait, and opened the doors manually as I was going down and released the chutes immediately after. Didn't want to take the chance of a door being damaged and not allowing the chute to deploy.
When I open the doors by themselves, it acts as an airbrake, causing drag, but very neutral as far as side pull. It allowed me to scrub off speed before the big hit of the parachute. Very user friendly...
I talked to Mike yesterday as I had remembered you saying that you open the doors first and that the doors don't pull a chute open and was trying to figure out what is best for me. I'm going to follow your guy's lead and open the doors with one button and the chute/chutes with another. There will be a manual back-up also in case the elect./button fails. Unlike yours which you can also close underway these are one direction only.... open.
Thanks for the input,
Sum
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Just make sure you pull regular and excessive maintenance. An awful lot of moving parts. Salt is a wonderful "inhibitor".
Every part on the car will be either powder coated (small or individual parts) or painted with epoxy paint. I've tried to take great pains to eliminate where salt can get into like behind partial welds. I'm sure it is still going to be a lot of work to clean the car completely when I return home and nothing lasts forever after being out there. My pickup has been out there every year since the mid 90's and is showing it, but it is going to have to wait until the lakester is finished.
c ya,
Sum
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I'm also wondering is anyone actually reading all of the BS that I'm typing on the build pages and should I continue with that or just post pictures??
Maybe the pictures alone are clear to everybody else, but I find myself re-reading the text in order to understand just what the heck I'm looking at.
Kudos, Chief!
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Sum are you going to make 08????
I ask because its looking close.
Very nice BTW, dont stop.
-JH
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I just have seen the video.
I can not tell from the vid but I am concerned that the doors may have issues opening at speed because of the air pressure. I am sure you have this worked out. BTW if you could get them to hold open at 45 degrees at speed I could see a very affective air brake….similar to 411.
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I just have seen the video.
I can not tell from the vid but I am concerned that the doors may have issues opening at speed because of the air pressure. I am sure you have this worked out. BTW if you could get them to hold open at 45 degrees at speed I could see a very affective air brake….similar to 411.
I'm sure hoping to make at least one meet in '08 with the car running. Regardless I plan on having it at Speed Week even if it isn't running to go through tech.
I'm trying not to have the doors act as an air brake due to all the strength involved to do that. It is hard to see, but the way I have the hinges designed the front of the door (froward on the car) opens a little earlier that the rear. Then the rear catches up and at full open the rear is about 7/8 to1 inch further apart than the fronts. The fronts open to about 11 1/4 inches wide and the rear right at 12 inches wide. Through most of their opening they remain parallel to the center line of the car. I'm hoping a little air will get in there and help in the opening or at least try and keep the aero forces in neutral territory on the inside surface and outside surface of the door. They will be skinned on both sides.
Mike (Ack Attack) told me if I understood right that he believes that even if the doors were not pulled open by the spring, but were just unlatched they would open due to the aero pressures back there. I guess we could theorize this to death, so the test will just have to come at speed. If I can get the car over 100 mph the first year with the stock small motor I'll be happy. Anything over that will be a bonus, so it's not like these doors have to work at over 200 mph the first year since there is no possibility of being anywhere close to those speeds with what I'm running to begin with.
Thanks for all the comments everyone,
Sum
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I'm sure hoping to make at least one meet in '08 with the car running. Regardless I plan on having it at Speed Week even if it isn't running to go through tech.
If I can get the car over 100 mph the first year with the stock small motor I'll be happy. Anything over that will be a bonus...
Sum, I'm betting on 164 :-D , get back to work and keep up the good work. Testing is the fun part 8-)
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Sum,
I hope S Steel is right.
My cardiologist says I should go at least 150 MPH with a internally stock Saturn.? :roll:
Maybe we can bet an O'Douls on closest to the record in each class or something!
Whoa!! Maybe I should check the records first. :-)
Harv
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O'duals.?..whats that?....is that some kinda new exhaust..?...
kent
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Sum,
I hope S Steel is right.
My cardiologist says I should go at least 150 MPH with a internally stock Saturn.? :roll:
Maybe we can bet an O'Douls on closest to the record in each class or something!
Whoa!! Maybe I should check the records first. :-)
Harv
Hey if you are closer it will be a beer and a dinner from me. I owe you guys one anyway and don't pay attention to that kent guy :-P ,
Sum