Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => Build Diaries => Topic started by: willieworld on January 02, 2008, 08:18:34 PM
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I moved to this site because it was taking up too much space on my wifes build diary. What I'm going to try to do as I build my wifes bike, my bike and a bike for Eric Ross. Things that are simple to make and inexpensive. Some things I know you can buy cheaper than you can make, small brackets and such. Most of the race shops have a good supply of bracketry. Beyond that you either have pay someone to make it or you can make it yourself. Especially if you live in a small rural area as opposed to a big city. If you look under the build diaries under not just another wheel on a stick you will find a posting of some brackets that I made pretty simple.Cut them out sand them down drill some holes minimal amount of tools.
So Here goes. These are some clamps that I build for all kinds of things. This is going to be for, well you'll see.
You're going to need some scrap tubing diameter optional. Some 3/16 or 1/8 inch plate depending on what strength is required for you. I use 1 3/4 od 120 wall tube and 1/4 inch cold roll plate. I'll explain it all in the pics.
1. Cut off a piece of tubing. Square the ends and cut about 1/4 inch slot out of the side of the tubing. The tubing that I had was too big for the fork tube I had to make the id smaller I did that with a brass hammer on the vise. Alot of light blows is better than one heavy blow. Turn the tubing as you beat on it to keep it round.
willie buchta 349b next year - 2008 - #9
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After you have sliced the side of the tubing and get it to the id that you need make sure that the slot is sufficient for clamping room. Then cut out two strips of metal 5/8 wide and as long as your tube, in my case 1 3/4 inches. I use 1/4 inch strips because I wanted to tap the material and not use a nut. Thinner wouldn't have worked. OK now the two strips of material that you cut out, clamp them together with a piece of scrap in between. Tack both ends of the strips to your tubing and then weld it up solid. Now go get a beer and let it cool off.
Willie Buchta 349b next year - 2008 - #9
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ok now that you got it welded together figure out where you want the holes center punch them and drill them. If you want to tap one side drill both plates out with an I drill then drill one side out with a 5/16 drill using that side as a guide tap out the I side that you drilled with a 5/16 - 24 tap. Find some bolts for it and nows your chance to sand and file and grind and make it look pretty and than your ready to go to the next step.
willie buchta
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Went into the house to get a cup of coffee and while I was gone that piece must have metalplied. Cause when I got back there was three of them. Anyway at this point if you have two of them you can put them over your fork tubes and weld some handlebar material to them and have a nice set of adjustable clip ons. I am going to do that later for Sheri's bike but right now I am going to use one for a steering dampener clamp bracket thing. So you want to make an arm. I usually make it so you can weld it on to the tube of the clamp you just made and I usually put a couple of holes in the arm for adjustment. You can always cut off the ones you don't like later.
willie buchta
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ok you got it all welded up now is your chance to pull it apart and clean it up and sandblast it chrome plate it paint it whatever you like. You'll see some pics mounted on the bike the other brackets for the frame I still have to make, But if you look at all the pics you'll get the idea. There are many uses for this style clamp. And if you wanted to you could cut the tube in half and put double brackets on it so that you could put it around a tube that wasn't open ended. The two on Sheri's bike that are on the forktubes above the top triple tree(I usually mount the handlebars to the top triple tree but in this case the triple tree was not very strong and I didn't want to make it weaker by drilling holes in it and it's easier to make the brackets that I made instead of building a new top triple tree.)will have one inch tubing welded to them which will become the handlebars. Which are infinately adjustable. A good thing. Thanks for not posting in the middle of all this my computer got cooties. If you guys want to post thats cool, but I am going to try to do some more stuff like this on this site and as I go it will get more complicated. All the parts made here could have been made with simple hand tools and a bandsaw or scrollsaw with the exception of the welding. And I know that you might be able to buy some of these parts cheaper than what you could make them for but you won't have the satisfaction. And as the parts become more complicated you definately won't be able to buy them.
willie buchta 349b - 2008 - #9
ps i posted a pic of an example its on a planishing hammer that i built
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Hey those are nice. Makes me want to drag one of my bikes out and build something for them. Only problem is Kent won't let me take off time from the lakester. Shaun and I did put a 305 sbc I had into his '73 Z car tonight. Of course at this point it is just sitting in there, but maybe this weekend will get further along.
Keep the ideas coming Willie,
Sum
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ok kids today i was making a part to mount sheris side car on her bike and i took a couple of pics to show you something
what i am going to do is put a heim joint in the end of a tube the heim joint is 5/8 fine thread the tube is 1 1/4 od and 1 inch id so a sleeve had to be made i made the sleeve out of a piece of solid bar i drilled and tapped it out on the lathe i turned the od down till it slid on the tube the sleeve is extra long because i like extra long threads that way they wont pull out mark and center punch the tube in four places from the end of the tube to about half the distance of the sleeve if the sleeve is one inch long mark the tube a half inch from the end -drill the holes in the tube- put the sleeve in the tube so its flush on the end and weld up all the holes making sure you get penetration into the interior plug if you weld up all four holes with good penetration it should be strong enough to hold but i always weld the end up because it keeps out moisture the pics should tell the story i usually make the hole twice as thick as the tube wall thickness this was 1/8 inch wall so i made the holes 1/4 inch
willie buchta 349b 2008 - #9
ps if you click on the pics in this posting they should enlarge x2
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the other two pics
willie buchta
i also posted another pic as an example--see what that bonneville salt does
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Salt/Rust.............use Kal-Gard ....30/30.................
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More fun stuff.
A couple posts ago I made these clamps and today I had a couple of minutes and welded a couple pieces of scrap tubing to them and made a set of handlebars out of them for Sheri's bike. The nice thing about clip-ons is that they are infinatley adjustable just by loosening a couple of bolts. And if you find out later on that they are too short, you can weld tubing on them and make them any length you want. I didn't build these all at one time, so I probably have a total of maybe a hour of labor. In my shop I don't work by the hour I bid the job. But there are some shops in my area that do excellant work for probably less than $80.00 an hour for labor. These handlebars, clamps the whole shabang could be made in one hour. I'm not sure if they are worth $80.00 but thats only an hour tv program. So make these clamps or watch tv for an hour. It's your choice.
If somebody wants to pay $80.00 plus material, which is about $6.00, I'll gladly make them and you can watch tv for that hour.
willie buchta 349b
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a few more pics
willie buchta 349b
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stubbing out your bars at a flat 90 will put your hands on an uncomfortable angle, it will twist your wrist outward and your elbows will follow...we build all of ours at a 15 or 22 deg downward angle. 15 is what most sportbikes use and is a comfortable straight arm angle. 20 deg is the same angle as yamaha tz250's and most racebikes it helps pull your elbows in and forces a tuck.. i use a board track style on my bikes that are almost verticle...
kent
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hey kent--- the bars angle down 18.8 degrees and back 15 degrees-- its kind of hard to see in the pics --thats the nice thing about this setup its totally adjustable--i may take you upon your offer to look at some plans for a hub center steer ive looked all over and cant find one-- i will be in your neighborhood the end of jan for the banquet thanks willie buchta
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Brake pedal - this will work on any kind of bike or car for that matter - Just draw out the patterns any scrap metal the tubing that I used was 1 1/4 od so it will slide over a 1 inch footpeg - I cut it down to 3/4 inch length and squared it up on the lathe - you can do the same thing with a grinder if you are careful - Once you got the pieces cut out and cleaned up put them the way you want and weld them together - drill a couple of holes for the master cylinder heim joint or clevice whatever you have and put on the bike - one more thing done.
Willie Buchta
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more pics
willie buchta
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Well kids, I made Willie work late today and he built my speedometer bracket. The pics kind of tell the story..If you follow the steps there is a couple of things that are different. There are three holes that overlap. They were all done with a drill. The big center hole was done with a step drill. If you don't have any of these you need to add a couple to your tool box. He bent the bracket in the vise just by beating it with a hammer. If you look close you can see the vise marks on the bracket. Thats ok cause when we tear the bike down before paint and final assembly, we'll clean all that up. In the last pic it looks like the bracket is crooked but its not it's the way the top triple tree was made. If you back up one pic you'll see it.This type of bracket can be used for a tach, speedo, rear view mirror, shift light, etc. Willie said if you guys have any tips or tricks, chime in any time you like. Or if you have any requests let him know.
Happy motoring...
Sheri Buchta
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a few more pics
Sheri Buchta
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Frog pirate from Washington needed a battery hold down built. He's building a B-last. He's posting on "Yet another blast!Project 600cc " under the build diaries. He posted a "blueprint" Hope all his measurements are right. I just decided to build it for brackets fabrication and fun stuff. So here goes.
I didn't have a big enough scrap so I welded two scraps together. I drew out the pattern according to Frog pirates measurements -rough cut it out - cleaned up the weld - and went back and scribed it out accurately - cut it all out - made all the bends - I made all the bends on the brake except the small tab - I cut three sides out with a small cutoff wheel - I clamped it to the workbench and bent the tab over with a flat chisel and hammer - The rest of the bends I did on a brake but it could have all been done over the edge of the workbench with a hammer and clamp - I'm going to send it to Frog pirate on Monday - so toward the end of the week we'll find out if it fits - I didn't beautify the piece I figured I would let Frog pirate do that his self - heres the pics
willie buchta
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Here are the other pics.
willie buchta #349b
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man you do some nice fab work sir. you have a fan here!
Danny
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Looks great Willie, I can't wait to try it on the bike! I'll post pictures in my build diary of it in place.
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willie
If I draw a pattern of a new G-force trans, can you build and send it to me in the next few days :-D
On the realistic side,Im still waiting for my saw blade material,hope to have it soon,I have a few things to build with it, I will let you know when it does.Thanks for shareing with us.
Thanks,Phil.
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Not a problem Phil Maybe I can build you some saw blades too
8-)
By the way, did you get bi-metal or tri-metal blades. Whoever you get your blades from should have a blade speed chart for different materials. And the soap you should use,which I found was the best, is irish spring or a candle(wax).
willie buchta 349b
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.............And the soap you should use,which I found was the best, is irish spring ................willie buchta 349b
I think you just like watching those cute little things jump out of the Irish spring bottle :-P ,
Sum
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the soap you should use,which I found was the best, is irish spring
willie buchta 349b
Leaves the parts with a manly scent, and the ladies like it too....
Willie, you keep up the good work, see you on the salt.... 8-)
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Willie
I ordered the bimetal bade material,could barely afford that,it is $253.00 from enco,I couldnt find trimetal,just as well,prob couldnt fit in my budget,I ordered 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch so thats a fair chunk for me.I will let you know how it works. By the way,I have a tube that looks like a grease cartridge but it is really lube for metal blades,drills,etc. Its like a stick of wax-like stuff,it works well,but probably not any better than irish spring, and it damn sure doesnt smell as good :-D Oh well no women in my shop to impress. Thanks for considering the trans thing.
Thanks again,Phil.
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Today we built a set of headers. We used two U bends and about 4 feet of straight pipe. We fabricated a wedge to shape the end of the pipe. You just drive it in with a hammer. Here are the pics.
Willie Buchta
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The next pics are the tubing in the flange, the tubing welded in the flange, the four tubes welded together and more welding.
Willie Buchta
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The next pics are of the tubes welded and cleaned up and a tool made to flare the collector to fit the pipes. The tool was made out of some scrap tubing and its pounded into the tube to form the collector. The last pic is the collector formed.
Willie Buchta
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The last three pics are of the collector on the pipes and everything all welded up and ground down. The headers sand blasted with a heat shield that I found from a road king muffler. The project took about 4 hours including making the piece to form the pipe and making the piece to form the collector. The material was about 10.00 for the straight pieces,16.00 for the U bends and the customer supplied the flange and the collector was actually an old harley muffler.
Willie Buchta
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Willie:
Just as a point of interest I now tig the inside on headers and braze the outside using the tig with silicone bronze. I found in the past if the headers were stressed at all there was a tendency to crack at the weld by the flange. Since I went to brazing there's been no problem.
Pete
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Thanks for the tips Willie. I have been wrestling with a design of a rear brake pedal for the Gray Ghost, and the light went on after seeing some of your work. Its that kind of imagination and craftsmenship that makes walking around the pits so much fun and energizing. I've been operating the rear brake with a handlebar master cyl. Maybe now I can get both front and rear done, then we'll be legit for Maxton, and the local drag race spots.
Thanks again for the time and effort to post all those pictures. Nicely done.
Uncle Jimbo
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..........and braze the outside using the tig with silicone bronze..............Pete
I got some of that rod after Rex S. on here suggested trying it with the tig. I haven't yet. What is the procedure?? Any tricks?? etc.?? Do I use the torch just like I would with gas and then flow it in there??
Thanks,
Sum
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hey sum ive been using bronze silica rod for years --use it with your tig all of the adj. is the same as steel just a little less heat its kind of like gas brazing but with elect. just before the puddle forms add some rod thats how i use it --its great for some header work and it takes viberation real well --i use it a lot on thin sheet metal --just remember though if you use it its very hard to grind out and go to steel rod i will do something on the brackets and other fun stuff tonight willie buchta
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.......--i use it a lot on thin sheet metal .........willie buchta
Thanks, that is what Rex said he likes it for also. I'll have to try it.
Did you get the e-mail with the tanks on E-bay that was sent to me and passed on to you??
Sum
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hey sum yes i did thanks
the rod is silicon bronze its a copper manganese alloy. its made for welding copper silica alloys, copper alloys, and many sheet metal applications employing plain or galvanized steel. requires the use of argon. the pieces i welded together in the pics is .050 and the rod was .060 which is a little big but its all i had. it works well in high vibration areas. i wouldnt use it for anything structual. when you use it turn the heat way down and just before you get a puddle dip the rod. its kind of a braizing process not a welding process. once you start using it youll find a thousand uses for it. its low heat so less warpage. it bends real well too as you can see in the pics. just be careful not to mix it with your steel rod. if you grab it accidently and weld something that you didnt want to its very hard to grind it out and go back to steel rod. it will always be contaminated with the silica bronze.
willie buchta
ps sheri and i are headed to la tonight for the big gear grinders banquet hope to see all you gear grinders there...
happy easter
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Thanks the pictures help. So it looks like you are actually forming a bead at the junction of the two metals. I didn't know if it was going to be more like sweating two pieces together like in a copper pipe joint. I'll try it in the next few days and will be back.
You have probably left, but if not the two of you have fun,
Sum
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Sum:
It's just like brazing with oxy-acetylene and a torch except you have a lot more control and the result is generally neater.
Pete
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no im still here will leave at midnight--dont judge me on neatness today was about my 60 day in the shop without a day off o forgot i did get a day off i drove to L.A. for the scta banquet--sum try low heat and very little rod i think you will like it willie buchta
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I agree Willie. On the headers I tend to make the fillet a little larger and concave as I'm trying to spread out the stresses and add some support. So far it seems to have been successful.
Pete