Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => Build Diaries => Topic started by: team_cougar on November 13, 2007, 09:44:28 PM
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Hey there,
I've had this old cougar since 1987 or so. Now, I've decided to take her off the street and go racing. With the Maxton mile only 100 or so miles away, I've become intrigued with Land Speed Racing and have to give it a try.
The car originally came with a 351 cleveland 2v engine, which I loved. It made plenty of power and I even built a higher performance C for it and went bracket racing at Bristol, when I lived in the area. Then, C parts started getting scarce and I went with a 302 that lasted about 1k miles before it grenaded and took the block with it.
So, now I'm going big with a 429 CID engine to run in A class and a four or five speed trans.
My aim is to keep the body all steel and not get into too many aero mods and see what it will do.
Right now, the car is in a few pieces getting paint as I get time.
I just secured an engine block and a set of D0VE heads for the motor and am going to get them in to the machine shop to be bead blasted and magnafluxed.
I don't really figure I'll go out and set any records in production class my first year. I just want to have fun getting some more time behind the wheel of my old car.
Anyway, I'll post some pics next time I get the chance and record the progress.
Andy
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Andy, have fun, be safe, go fast
Welcome to our addiction, get a rulebook from Maxton and build a safe car.
have fun...
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Andy, I'm a bike guy, so won't attempt to tell you much about car rules -- but I do know that the ECTA (Maxton) rulebook for 2008 will be finalised during the first week or so of December. I don't know what, if any, changes there'll be that might affect how you build your car, and I suspect that if you get an '07 book and start with what's in there -- you won't find drastic changes when you get the '08 book.
I'm sure you understand this next bit of wisdom -- get at least three copies of the rulebook: One for the shop, one for the living room, one for the back of the toilet. You'll understand once you get started with building your ride.
Good attitude -- seat time is the best way to learn this affliction. This year I rode a couple of other peoples' bikes and drove two others' cars, too.
We look forward to seeing you at the track. Make plans now to go to the first meet of the year -- end of March/beginning of April. It's the Hot Rod magazine street shootout, and you'll see lots of cars that might not show up any other event of the year.
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Thanks for the welcome, guys.
Studying the rules is crucial for not having to waste money on mods that don't pass tech.
And, safety is the name of the game for me. I'm in it for the fun and mine is a grassroots project not built from cubic dollars at all.
Eventually, I'd like to score some Boss 429 heads and go production that way since that was an optional engine for my car. But, for now, I'm sticking with a wedge motor instead of a hemi- Bo$$.
But, the Cougar is all set to get a floor refurb, subframe connectors, and a cage. I'm just waiting on the rules to show up so I can know which way to go.
It's already fun for me and I don't yet have a complete car. I enjoy the mental exercises the speed requires almost as much as I enjoy having a heavy right foot.
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Welcome go to the ecta site you can down load a tech sheet .You can build your car to run 135,150,175 or damn fast.Its up to $$$ and your goals.Everyone will help.
terry
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The 1970 is a cool year to work on, because if you want to keep it stock, you can still go with an Eliminator front chin spoiler and probably be in compliance with the rules. That, and 600 lb's of cast iron under the hood should help keep the front end from getting too light.
:-D Maybe.
I love those Fords and Mercs from that time period.
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Hey Midget,
Right on about the chin spoiler and the iron motor. I'm even using iron heads and intake to keep the weight on the front.
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Latest update is a bit of motor parts I scored for $50.
A set of 460 heads D3VE A2A and a block, timing cover, etc.
I'm all set to send the block to be bead blasted and magged for cracks.
The junkyard list is shrinking:
429 D1VE block and crank
Bellhousing for manual trans
3 or 4 speed, maybe a 5 speed
Manifolds from an early stang (71 or so)
A pair of 600 carbs or 500 Afb's
Slowly but surely.
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It would be good if you substitute a Lakewood blow shield for the bellhousing. Your going to need something to pass tech. I think they are on Ebay most of the time.
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Yeah, no kidding Rich.
I'll add that to the non-junkyard parts list. Thanks. :-D
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(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff280/wheelgunslinger/cougar/andyscougar013.jpg)
As you can see, the car is in a bit worse shape than I thought. This is the first time I have ever removed the fenders from the car and am not surprised to find rust and mouse/rat nests in little crevices. Now, I'll have to thoroughly check the wiring.
Here's a shot of the engine compartment. The Cleveland produced a LOT of heat when I drove it on the street. This translated into a lot of flaking paint which later started rusting. So, now I have to grind and make sparks, repaint, and make sure the front structure is sound. The shock towers on Ford's pony cars are notorious for weakening and corroding over the years. Mine is actually in relatively good shape for a car that has nearly 300k miles.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff280/wheelgunslinger/cougar/andyscougar008.jpg)
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There are a lot of anti rust and other products that will speed up the body rust cleanup and protect it in the future. The Eastwood company is a must catalog to get. Welcome to LSR and enjoy a new found love. :-D
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Maybe it's worse than you thought, but I don't see anything here that can't be corrected. Thanks to the Wisconsin Department of Transportation, and their insistence of salting the roads from October until March, around here, your car would be referred to as "Virtually Rust Free".
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Exactly,
It's just going to take a bit more elbow grease than I first imagined.
Which, I actually don't mind so much.
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Got my competition number from the ECTA. Should be getting my rulebooks and membership back any time now.
:-D
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff280/wheelgunslinger/cougar/andyscougar009.jpg)
Here's another pic of the radiator support from the engine side. Doesn't look too bad, but I'm on the fence about it. That particular piece will be what hold the grille, headlight doors, bumper filler piece, and the headlight buckets. Not to mention the hood pins and latch. It takes a lot of abuse and it would probably be wise to just replace it since a repro is only 110 bucks or so.