Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => Build Diaries => Topic started by: Reverend Hedgash on April 01, 2007, 09:57:50 PM
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Hi all.
We are ready to embark on the next vehicle construction period, that being of our trailer for our Belly tank.
I am starting this thread as I am sure there is a huge amount of knowledge out there of what to do and what not to do regarding building a trailer for the salt which we hope to start assembling here as we go through the assembly of ours. Please feel free to tell any LSR trailer related incident here for posterity, humour or information.
(Perhaps the most famous incident is the damage en route to the So-Cal streamliner by a jack-knifing trailer leaving it to have taped up front left corner for its debut photos for all of posterity.)
For our trailer we have decided to build an enclosed one because Lake Gairdner is only reached after 200kms of dirt road and it is important for us to keep the red iron containing dust out of the car. Also facilities at the lake are so rudimentary and the distance from civilisation so far that we want to use this opportunity to make something which will be our workshop, storage space and whatever else we can think of.
During the year the trailer will act as a storage container for the car protecting it from the elements and giving more room to the garage.
What would be on your wishlist for the perfect salt trailer? What have you seen that you thought was clever?
I have attached an image of my motorhome which will be the tow vehicle that will be our base. It already includes a toilet, sink, shower, fridge (needs repair) 4 beds, eating area so these need not be included in the trailer.
Yes, it is a RHD Chev, just as God intented them to be.
Reverend H+
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If your lake is anything like Bonneville a good reefer unit for cold air would be great.
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Our trailer -- is our second one, and more than a few items in/on it are there 'cause we thought of 'em after the first one was outfitted.
AM-FM-tape player with indoor and outdoor speakers.
CB radio/PA system with outdoor speaker.
More-than-adequate interior lighting.
Self-contained 12-volt battery to power above when not hooked to the truck.
Deck on the roof/ladder built onto trailer for better viewing location/ease of access to deck.
Closet inside trailer to hang safety garb, store supplies, etc. Shelf on top of closet to store more stuff.
Tie-downs mounted AFTER putting race bikes, toolbox, etc, etc, into the trailer. Move things around 'til best fit is found, THEN (and only then) mount tie-downs. Be ready to make first trip to a race event and decide to move tie-downs because your first ideas weren't as convenient as you thought they'd be.
Spare tire mounted where you can get access without having to empty the contents of the trailer!
That's a start. . .
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(Putting back images and info lost by the latest corruption of the forum.)
The plan is to have raiseable ramps so we can:
a) get the car in without scraping the bottom
b) have the car at an height easy to work on at the salt (we are not getting younger...)
Jack D also posted a great solution for turning a trailer into a tilt trailer which I'll re-write here:
A steel tube around 5' in length has a suitable dolly wheel/castor on the bottom and goes through a sleeve attached to the tongue of the trailer.
At the top of this tube is a wheel over which the cable from a cheap winch can run.
The winch and end of cable is attached to the tongue of the trailer on either side of the tube, and so when the winch is wound it drives the tube with the dolly wheel into the ground thereby lifting the trailer up (with a 2:1 ratio).
If this system doesn't already have a name, I hereby dub it, "The Dolan Jack."
Thanks Jack, we'll be installing one on the Jarman-Stewart enclosed trailer for sure.
Rev. H
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Be sure the specified safety pins go from left to right because if they go from right to left you will be in violation of my International Patent.
I don't want to send Donk for you . :wink:
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Och yes,
when you have jacked it to the appropriate height a pin is pushed through a pre-drilled hole to prevent accidental slippage of the whole thing back down again.
Thanks Jack, wouldn't want anyone to get medieval on me with their lawyers...
Rev.H
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Och yes,
when you have jacked it to the appropriate height a pin is pushed through a pre-drilled hole to prevent accidental slippage of the whole thing back down again.
Thanks Jack, wouldn't want anyone to get medieval on me with their lawyers...
Rev.H
Hey Rev, don't let him "jack" you around. I guess the phrase must of originated with one of his ancestors and he is carrying on the tradition :evil: ,
Sum
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Why buck tradition ?
Someday I will tell you how I got that nickname and how it got me into trouble with the FBI.
15 years after the fact I had to get a Judge to approve it as an AKA. LOL
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Our trailer -- is our second one, and more than a few items in/on it are there 'cause we thought of 'em after the first one was outfitted.
AM-FM-tape player with indoor and outdoor speakers.
CB radio/PA system with outdoor speaker.
More-than-adequate interior lighting.
Self-contained 12-volt battery to power above when not hooked to the truck.
Deck on the roof/ladder built onto trailer for better viewing location/ease of access to deck.
Closet inside trailer to hang safety garb, store supplies, etc. Shelf on top of closet to store more stuff.
Tie-downs mounted AFTER putting race bikes, toolbox, etc, etc, into the trailer. Move things around 'til best fit is found, THEN (and only then) mount tie-downs. Be ready to make first trip to a race event and decide to move tie-downs because your first ideas weren't as convenient as you thought they'd be.
Spare tire mounted where you can get access without having to empty the contents of the trailer!
That's a start. . .
Nice one Slim......my thought exactly.I'm figuring that after checking out the cost of building one versus the price that car transporters sell for on E-Bay that I'll end up making two , sell the first for a bit more cap. and useful experience.
Someone else mentioned a "reefer unit" ...is that like a vending machine?......hmmmm
As the Rev. mentioned we are planning on a "tray" that will slide out the back of the trailer in order to keep the car at working height......it's highest point is about 34 inches .I'm thinking we can get 100litre auto LPG tanks that are out of date to sling underneath for water tanks(at our lake a fair price for 4gal. of good drinking water is a six-pack !)
we also need provision for a couple of motorbikes , :?
I wish I could spend as much time on this site as I used to :oops:Thanks all .
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Hey Doc n Rev,
I've Built a Few Trailers, Buses/campers and have assisted in a few others for Drag Cars n Bikes,,,
A few thing I'd build into my next Trailer,,,
Solar Panels for lighting, Google BP solar and or camping joints in Melbourne,
Build retractable awning beams into the sides of the trailer, bought ones can be a tad pricey its better to make them..
have a cassette BBQ plumbed into the side.
Don't use checker plate on floors or ramps it gets really slippery when wet and if you have oil residue on your feet,
Barn Doors that lock open with retractable ramps, every one trips over ramp doors that are left open,,,
100mm x 6m lengths of Pipe mounted under the floor hold 47 litres for Air or water awning poles??
Or if your welds are good use chassis as an air reservoir.
Build the trailer the same height and width as the tow vehicle for economy and reversing ..
Leveling jacks and jockey wheel so the trailer can be left with out a vehicle attached,
A sound proof compartment for the Gen set, Air compressor,
heavy duty Stainless steel hinges and locks, concealed floor attach points for toolboxes and cars,
Use a Treg Hitch made in Adelaide, like a universal joint has no yackedy yak when towing.
I would work on vehicle on the awning side with flip up side exposing the wall mounted tool box and drop down work bench, retractable air lines and hard wired LED lighting system. Use LED's for everything. no solder joints in any wiring Trailer and Race Cars,,,
Your Race Car will suffer more damage and wear n tear from the trailer not racing...
Most important insulation Air conditioning. LOTS of compartments..
lots of planning......
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Use PVC water pipe for the underside stuff.
It is light, cheap and can be capped to hold air or fluids under reasonable working pressure.
It is also suitable for pole storage as mentioned.
You can get the sheet metal shop to shear up some stainless steel straps from scrap that can be used to fasten them in place.
Both are materials that will never corrode and require no other protection from the elements. :wink:
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After years of jacking up the front, dragging out the ramps, putting them back in etc., now both our car trailers will collapse flat on the salt. No winching, struggling, aligning etc. Also, after multiple transmission failures etc., our tools and equipment go in a separate trailer. One side of the equipment trailer swings out 180 degrees so all tools etc. are accessible from one side. The doors all open vertically and provide shade also. Add to the already impressive list of others, a permanently mounted CB powered by a solar panel, a weather station, fold out work benches, a clock permanently set to Salt Time, mounts and pressure fittings for various and sundry gasses such as nitrous, nitrogen, breathing air, reels with hoses for said gasses, reels for electrical cords and a pressure washer with a 30 gallon tank. Oh yeah, and every tool and spare part know to man or beast. Good luck, just remember that everything for the salt is a work in progress.
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"Doing your homework now leaves more time for racing on the weekends."
That advice came in my very early days from some very old people and Sami saw the early punishments and later rewards. :wink:
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As a retired plumber, I caution anyone against using PVC or any other plastic pipe for compressed air storage. The stuff has a nasty habit of hardening as it ages and a sharp blow can cause it to shatter like a large hand grenade. Seen it happen - not pretty lots of plastic shrapnel.
Poppy
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Gentlemen,
excellent advice indeed!
The storing of air in the frame is nothing short of inspirational! Never twigged to that possibility.
The storage pipes under is great too, and making them light and non corrosive the logical next step. (Don't store air in pvc noted, thanks Poppy)
Richard, slamming a trailer? Are you betraying a "lowrider" history?
Sounds complicated, how did you do it?
Solar panels for CB, radio, and lights is a logical addition in an ideal trailer for the salt. (But there is no radio reception at Lake Gairdner am or fm that I recall... and "tape" players? come on guys, its 2007, you mean for my blueray ps3 and ipod don't ya?)
Due to their cost what I might do is buy a portable solar panel so I can use it for the motorhome as well as the trailer and get most use out of it year round instead of just the week at the salt. (Also can simply orient for best solar collection throughout the day if required.)
Keep them coming. I'll present some plans shortly for comment.
reverend h+
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The PVC will deteriorate with exposure to UV (sunlight) radiation and is used to replace Cast Iron in high pressure water mains below ground now and chilled water distribution systems in large buildings.
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I agree That PVC for air Storage is a no no. However Poly pipe is another story There are Grades That will hold quite high pressure very safely.
The idea of a trailer is not new I used to supply parts to a company that made portable sheep yards. They had a crank axle and a powerful winch.